Torx T40 size. nothing else needed.
2019 Pro Basket Rack - Deleted :(
- Thread starter niadh0
- Start date
Torx T40 size. nothing else needed.
daytonaviolet
New member
I may be one of the rare folks who likes the 2019 trd pro rack [emoji12]. But I also like the fj cruiser.
daytonaviolet
New member
Bayou_Pro
New member
I too liked it on my FJ but I just don't think it flows well on the 4Runner.
There is a bracket that holds a pair of nuts (and plastic cylinder you see coming through the roof) under the roof. This can break off as it is probably tac welded to the roof. Will post a pic of what happened to mine and what the bracket looks like.
FYI I was taking off my factory 19trdp basket. My guess is that is the same for all 5th gens.
i see. so this means i should be careful in the future when swapping the rack. thx
rageandlove
Member
[MENTION=109703]niadh0[/MENTION] ... question.
Is it just the metal bracket that's different? I see the same plastic cylinders in some youtube videos of non-pro non-trail roof rack deletes ...
Thx
Is it just the metal bracket that's different? I see the same plastic cylinders in some youtube videos of non-pro non-trail roof rack deletes ...
Thx
ColoradoToyota
New member
How are the bolts holding up on your 2010-2013 trail rack? I have one on my truck and one of them got stripped. Because they're round on the outside (instead of a bolt), it was a huge PITA to get the thing out, eventually got it out by dremeling a slot (got a tip from a member on here with that idea which saved my ass) and using vice grips to turn a giant flathead screwdriver in the new slot. The metal in the bolts is so soft, once it starts to strip, it's a nightmare. So use caution going forward!
I'm with you on that one.
PT278-35070 is the hardware kit for the bolts (torx head) that come with 2010-2013 Trail and now with the 2019-2020 TRD Pro. you just need a good torx socket with long handle to gently and firmly wind/unwind the bolts. this will save them from getting damaged plus it will help with the lock-glue which causes the jam with the bracket inside the roof. my analysis says that the roof rack is installed at the port and therefore the guy at the port does the lock-glue inconsistently... which causes problems for some people in taking off the bolts
[MENTION=136077]ColoradoToyota[/MENTION]
[MENTION=202061]rageandlove[/MENTION]
[MENTION=186984]RusPro17[/MENTION]
here are some pics.
the first bolt comes in the roof-rack-delete kit
the second bolt comes in the non-pro non-2010-2013-Trail rack
the third bolt comes with the pro and 2010-2013-Trail rack
the bracket is pictured
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rageandlove
Member
[MENTION=109703]niadh0[/MENTION] thank you for the help - really appreciate.
Any idea if the bracket is the same on all versions of the truck, or is that specific to the Pro/2010-13 Trail rack?
The reason I ask is that I'm planning to get the Sherpa Crestone rack for my 2019 Pro, but I'm trying to figure out if I will have install challenges because of differences in h/w in the mounting system between the Pro rack and other models.
The way their rack mounts is a rubber pad direct to roof, which is very cool in that no silicone is needed to keep out water, but if those white plastic sleeves are unique to the TRD Pro rack, will prob create fitment issues.
(Yes, I asked Sherpa, and got a "should work" but I'm a measure twice cut once kind of guy, so I'm trying to confirm before I order, rip off the current rack, then discover issues ...)
based on the picture you posted, you just need to make sure that the bolt you put on with the aftermarket rack is just long enough to be bolted properly to the bracket.
as for the bracket itself (especially the white tube that pops out - which guides the bold and serves no other purpose,) I know for fact that the Limited, Trail, TRD OffRoad, TRD Pro all have it. I have owned all of these model except for SR5... so I highly doubt that SR5 will have a different bracket.
as for the bracket itself (especially the white tube that pops out - which guides the bold and serves no other purpose,) I know for fact that the Limited, Trail, TRD OffRoad, TRD Pro all have it. I have owned all of these model except for SR5... so I highly doubt that SR5 will have a different bracket.
[MENTION=109703]niadh0[/MENTION] thank you for the help - really appreciate.
Any idea if the bracket is the same on all versions of the truck, or is that specific to the Pro/2010-13 Trail rack?
The reason I ask is that I'm planning to get the Sherpa Crestone rack for my 2019 Pro, but I'm trying to figure out if I will have install challenges because of differences in h/w in the mounting system between the Pro rack and other models.
The way their rack mounts is a rubber pad direct to roof, which is very cool in that no silicone is needed to keep out water, but if those white plastic sleeves are unique to the TRD Pro rack, will prob create fitment issues.
(Yes, I asked Sherpa, and got a "should work" but I'm a measure twice cut once kind of guy, so I'm trying to confirm before I order, rip off the current rack, then discover issues ...)
I have had people reach out to me for tips regarding removing the Pro rack. Yes you need to be careful when you unbolt the rack.
(1) get the longest Socket Wrench you can find. The longer the wrench handle the safer / less risky this is going to be
(2) get T40 trox Socket and attach it to the wrench
(3) take a look at the picture attached that compares all type of bolts that come with the pro or non-pro factory racks. you will need a regular socket to remove SR5/Limited/2014+ TRD-OffRoad racks. you will need T40 socket for the TRD-Pro and 2010-13 Trail racks.
(3) repeat the following for each bolt on the roof to remove the TRD-Pro factory rack...
(3a) make sure the socket is properly engaged into the bolt. maintain continuous contact and don't let it come off
(3b) EXTREMELY SLOWLY but FIRMLY move the wrench counterclockwise while keeping the turning momentum at consistent speed with constant FORCE. Utilize the LONGER handle of the wrench to ensure you are not turning the bolt with sudden/accelerated momentum by using excessive force
(3c) if the BOLT being turned has excessive Lock tie/glue applied (circled in the picture - blue or pink), then you will feel that the BOLT is not easily turning. In such case UNTURN and TURN several times, and feel that the resistance is going away. This is a critical point of failure if you don't do it right.
(3d) MAKE SURE not to take out the entire BOTL... you need to work all ALL eight bolts at the same time... a few turns at a time. By doing this you are making sure that you won't bend the Bracket inside the roof and you are preventing it from spinning inside when taking out the second bolt
(4) if you manage to take all bolts off safely then you have done it. Life away the rack and make sure you also take out a butterfly shape type metal retaining thingy that you will find between the rack and the holes in the roof (you will see the while cylinders circled in the picture).
so there you have it. some people have NO issues no matter how they remove the bolts... that is because the PORT installer put just the right amount of glue on the bolts. some people have nightmare with this because they rush to take the bolts out and run into bend brackets and stuck bolts - thats because the GLUE put at the PORT is excessive.
sorry I am very wordy here...but its for your own benefit.
when it comes to mounting a replacement rack.....
- if you are using an after market rack, then use what the rack comes with
- if you are using a 2010-2013 Trail Edition rack then you will need to use the metal-double-hole-bracket before you put the rack on, and then use the rubber factory washers in-between the rack and the bolt.
- if you are using a non-Pro and non-2010-2013-Trail rack (which mean the standard silver, chrome, or the black 5th gen rails), then you do NOT use the metal-double-hole-bracket (that you found under the Pro tack) before you put the replacement rack on, but still use the rubber factory washers in-between the rack and the bolt.
BTW if the factory rubber washers are worn off like you said, then buy equivalent ones from a local hardware store. - or- you can buy a Toyota hardware kit that comes with bolts and the washers.
all the best.
(1) get the longest Socket Wrench you can find. The longer the wrench handle the safer / less risky this is going to be
(2) get T40 trox Socket and attach it to the wrench
(3) take a look at the picture attached that compares all type of bolts that come with the pro or non-pro factory racks. you will need a regular socket to remove SR5/Limited/2014+ TRD-OffRoad racks. you will need T40 socket for the TRD-Pro and 2010-13 Trail racks.
(3) repeat the following for each bolt on the roof to remove the TRD-Pro factory rack...
(3a) make sure the socket is properly engaged into the bolt. maintain continuous contact and don't let it come off
(3b) EXTREMELY SLOWLY but FIRMLY move the wrench counterclockwise while keeping the turning momentum at consistent speed with constant FORCE. Utilize the LONGER handle of the wrench to ensure you are not turning the bolt with sudden/accelerated momentum by using excessive force
(3c) if the BOLT being turned has excessive Lock tie/glue applied (circled in the picture - blue or pink), then you will feel that the BOLT is not easily turning. In such case UNTURN and TURN several times, and feel that the resistance is going away. This is a critical point of failure if you don't do it right.
(3d) MAKE SURE not to take out the entire BOTL... you need to work all ALL eight bolts at the same time... a few turns at a time. By doing this you are making sure that you won't bend the Bracket inside the roof and you are preventing it from spinning inside when taking out the second bolt
(4) if you manage to take all bolts off safely then you have done it. Life away the rack and make sure you also take out a butterfly shape type metal retaining thingy that you will find between the rack and the holes in the roof (you will see the while cylinders circled in the picture).
so there you have it. some people have NO issues no matter how they remove the bolts... that is because the PORT installer put just the right amount of glue on the bolts. some people have nightmare with this because they rush to take the bolts out and run into bend brackets and stuck bolts - thats because the GLUE put at the PORT is excessive.
sorry I am very wordy here...but its for your own benefit.
when it comes to mounting a replacement rack.....
- if you are using an after market rack, then use what the rack comes with
- if you are using a 2010-2013 Trail Edition rack then you will need to use the metal-double-hole-bracket before you put the rack on, and then use the rubber factory washers in-between the rack and the bolt.
- if you are using a non-Pro and non-2010-2013-Trail rack (which mean the standard silver, chrome, or the black 5th gen rails), then you do NOT use the metal-double-hole-bracket (that you found under the Pro tack) before you put the replacement rack on, but still use the rubber factory washers in-between the rack and the bolt.
BTW if the factory rubber washers are worn off like you said, then buy equivalent ones from a local hardware store. - or- you can buy a Toyota hardware kit that comes with bolts and the washers.
all the best.
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niadh0,
Thank you for this write up. I’m still nervous doing it but I feel I can do it than pay the dealer to do it. Awesome write up. I will let you know if all goes well. Not sure when I will get to it. All I know I brought my Pro home from the dealer and still sitting in my heated garage with 15 miles on it. I’m doing all this stuff before I take it out. I detailed it myself and changed out all the interior lights. I want to remove the rack before I start driving it. One thing just checking what sealant did you put around the holes and bolt. Thanks Don.
Thank you for this write up. I’m still nervous doing it but I feel I can do it than pay the dealer to do it. Awesome write up. I will let you know if all goes well. Not sure when I will get to it. All I know I brought my Pro home from the dealer and still sitting in my heated garage with 15 miles on it. I’m doing all this stuff before I take it out. I detailed it myself and changed out all the interior lights. I want to remove the rack before I start driving it. One thing just checking what sealant did you put around the holes and bolt. Thanks Don.
you got me there. i didn't put any sealent when i put the bolts back in with the Trail rack. i did use rubber washers from home depot (or lowes) to ensure the bolt doesn't eat into the rack and also to make sure no water goes inside. perhaps thats what you are asking.
fyi. i removed my rack in December 2018 in Canadian weather and didn't have any issue. but the room kinda temperature makes more sense in your garage.
and yes the dealer service men may not be as careful as you could be so don't go to the dealer. if they fail, they will open your roof liner to fix things... which i would not want.
all the best.
fyi. i removed my rack in December 2018 in Canadian weather and didn't have any issue. but the room kinda temperature makes more sense in your garage.
and yes the dealer service men may not be as careful as you could be so don't go to the dealer. if they fail, they will open your roof liner to fix things... which i would not want.
all the best.
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Niahd0,
Finally today I got my Pro rack off. Post some pictures shortly. Talk about nerve racking!! Lol. Great instructions by Niahd0. Like he said take your time and turn the bolts out slowly. Feel tight turn them back and forth a little till there no resistance because of the lock tight. :rockon:
Finally today I got my Pro rack off. Post some pictures shortly. Talk about nerve racking!! Lol. Great instructions by Niahd0. Like he said take your time and turn the bolts out slowly. Feel tight turn them back and forth a little till there no resistance because of the lock tight. :rockon:
