2021 4Runner OEM LED Headlights/Lights Performance and Retrofit

Would love to see the Alibaba link

My mistake, alpharex is the Alibaba one.

Morimoto headlights are made by Chinese company Coplus. Morimoto just imports and rebrands them.

2014+ | 巨鎧精密工業股份有限公司

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I just installed 2022 Led headlights on my 2016. It all worked out great. No issues. High beam and DRL works fine. I am very happy. XB headlights looks great, but they are not reliable. Customer service was nice. They sent me a replacement telling me they made slight improvements on them. I will stick to my OEM for now.
 
I just installed 2022 Led headlights on my 2016. It all worked out great. No issues. High beam and DRL works fine. I am very happy. XB headlights looks great, but they are not reliable. Customer service was nice. They sent me a replacement telling me they made slight improvements on them. I will stick to my OEM for now.

you were able to get the high beams to work on the 2022 lights that have LED high/low?

Detail how to guide?
 
you were able to get the high beams to work on the 2022 lights that have LED high/low?

Detail how to guide?

Yes. High beam and DRL works fine. I did not use the blue wire to activate Bi-LED function. My high beam is halogen. I just used LED headlight bulb to replace the halogen, but the high beam function works fine.
I swapped the connector using this video

The only difference with 2022 is that you get three wires instead of two. That extra blue wire activates the Bi-Led shutter. I did not use that wire. I just used heat shrink to cover it off. Black and red activates the low beam. The rest of wires are exactly the same.
 
Yes. High beam and DRL works fine. I did not use the blue wire to activate Bi-LED function. My high beam is halogen. I just used LED headlight bulb to replace the halogen, but the high beam function works fine.
I swapped the connector using this video

The only difference with 2022 is that you get three wires instead of two. That extra blue wire activates the Bi-Led shutter. I did not use that wire. I just used heat shrink to cover it off. Black and red activates the low beam. The rest of wires are exactly the same.


well good to know for those who decide to purchase the 2022 models. Initially thought you were able to get the bi-led function to work.
 
I did the 2021 led retrofit on my 2018 ORP as well. It took me about three hours in total, and it was the first time I’d taken off the front bumper so I really took my time. It was a relatively easy install thanks to the previous posters and the YouTube video. Everything works as it should. I’ll do a test drive when it stops raining.
 
well good to know for those who decide to purchase the 2022 models. Initially thought you were able to get the bi-led function to work.

I might be possible to make the Bi-LED function to work, but Bi-LED is weaker than halogen housing. I just put Xenon depot LED high beam with DRL harness. The high beam is super bright !
 
I might be possible to make the Bi-LED function to work, but Bi-LED is weaker than halogen housing. I just put Xenon depot LED high beam with DRL harness. The high beam is super bright !

if you can get it to work it would help others, I purchased the 2021 model with the halogen high and it was a simple install. Can you post pix of the high & drl led
 
if you can get it to work it would help others, I purchased the 2021 model with the halogen high and it was a simple install. Can you post pix of the high & drl led


b187947b183aad8b3a3a8c98a9673e39.jpg

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2022 OEM low beam with xenon depot high beam bulb with DRL harness.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
So I finally got my hands on a set of OEM bi-LED headlights (thanks [MENTION=136675]alxdo2[/MENTION]!). Originally, I was hoping to get the single low-beam units from select 2021 trims for the sake of simplicity. However, I think it's a moot point now. I'll explain below.

Once the headlights were in transit, I contacted Dave Easa on Tacomaworld for help on adapters. We agreed on a plan for him to ship a pigtail with bare leads so I could connect to 12V and determine pin functions.

52038969923_b16ac967c6_c.jpg


52037878932_f17768f95a_c.jpg


As most have figured out, red is to light the lamp, blue is to activate the high-beam shutter, and black is a common ground. What's interesting is that the connector appears to be the same for both types of headlights, with the populated pins dropping to 2 for the low-beam only units. That's not the only similarity.

So Dave built me some harness adapters to go from the existing halogen connector on the truck to the new LED connector on the headlights. This way I wouldn't need to de-pin the connectors and I can easily return to halogen headlights if desired. But, we added an extra trick: an additional wire lead out of the shutter connection that can be controlled externally. I terminated it with a single weatherpack connector for my own harness.

52038952748_c1be9130cd_c.jpg


The lights work perfectly. Here they are paired with Diode Dynamics SS3 Max fog lights.

52039456125_a2ace296f8_c.jpg


52039189669_5c147b0a2c_c.jpg


As with the low beam units, they have those goofy shadow artifacts in the beams, just below the cutoffs. My theory is that Toyota used the exact same projector for both models of headlights, and then just depopulated one of the wires for the "cheaper" trims. It would be really funny if someone opens up their SR5 headlights and finds inactive shutters in the projectors. I digress.

As for the custom harness, I made the old mistake of measuring once and cutting twice- it's too short between the headlights and I will need to remake it. However, I did connect it to the driver headlight and confirm that the shutters do activate when triggered with 12V!

Temporarily, I have the shutter circuit connected to the relay and switch that usually control my auxiliary driving lights. I'll need to add more relays to control my growing collection of lighting upgrades. Maybe a Bussman box or SPOD is in my future.

49688596397_bc3d41a0e4_c.jpg


Warning: If you attempt this mod, you will need to figure out a way to prevent your DRL mode from pinging the shutters. Older 5th gen 4Runners use PWM to dim the high beams for DRL duty. If you are using a trigger from the high-beam circuit (like an add-a-fuse etc.), you must not directly connect it to the custom connector. Otherwise, when you turn on DRLs you will rapidly signal the shutters at a high frequency, which may wear them out or destroy them.

50619643877_ab92400159_c.jpg


The way my switch and relay is laid out, I have dual control- meaning I can activate the shutters anytime in LOW and they toggle with the ordinary high beam circuit in HIGH. I can also can turn it off completely to avoid DRL buzzing the relay. However, the circuit can still be exposed if I forget to turn the switch off. Eventually I plan to build a capacitor filter to prevent the problem entirely.

Since I messed up my harness and need to wait for more wire sleeving to try again, I have not had any road experience with the quad high-beam setup. However, I am VERY impressed with the quality and intensity of the factory LED units in low beam in comparison to the older halogen units. As Crash shows in his test data here, the LED units are nearly twice as performant as the best halogen bulb upgrade and nearly three times as intense as the factory equipped halogen bulbs.

Also as suspected, the halogen reflectors are much better than the bi-LED only high beams, and they can get even better with a 9011 bulb upgrade. With an older truck and some custom wire harnessing, you can easily achieve a quad high beam setup for ultimate headlight performance! I will update when I get the new harness finished.

Dave on Tacomaworld was hugely helpful in making this happen. If you're interested in the same modification, you might want to contact him here. If it is popular enough, he might consider adding it to his custom wiring store here. He is an awesome dude and huge asset to the Toyota community.
 
So I finally got my hands on a set of OEM bi-LED headlights (thanks [MENTION=136675]alxdo2[/MENTION]!). Originally, I was hoping to get the single low-beam units from select 2021 trims for the sake of simplicity. However, I think it's a moot point now. I'll explain below.

Once the headlights were in transit, I contacted Dave Easa on Tacomaworld for help on adapters. We agreed on a plan for him to ship a pigtail with bare leads so I could connect to 12V and determine pin functions.

52038969923_b16ac967c6_c.jpg


52037878932_f17768f95a_c.jpg


As most have figured out, red is to light the lamp, blue is to activate the high-beam shutter, and black is a common ground. What's interesting is that the connector appears to be the same for both types of headlights, with the populated pins dropping to 2 for the low-beam only units. That's not the only similarity.

So Dave built me some harness adapters to go from the existing halogen connector on the truck to the new LED connector on the headlights. This way I wouldn't need to de-pin the connectors and I can easily return to halogen headlights if desired. But, we added an extra trick: an additional wire lead out of the shutter connection that can be controlled externally. I terminated it with a single weatherpack connector for my own harness.

52038952748_c1be9130cd_c.jpg


The lights work perfectly. Here they are paired with Diode Dynamics SS3 Max fog lights.

52039456125_a2ace296f8_c.jpg


52039189669_5c147b0a2c_c.jpg


As with the low beam units, they have those goofy shadow artifacts in the beams, just below the cutoffs. My theory is that Toyota used the exact same projector for both models of headlights, and then just depopulated one of the wires for the "cheaper" trims. It would be really funny if someone opens up their SR5 headlights and finds inactive shutters in the projectors. I digress.

As for the custom harness, I made the old mistake of measuring once and cutting twice- it's too short between the headlights and I will need to remake it. However, I did connect it to the driver headlight and confirm that the shutters do activate when triggered with 12V!

Temporarily, I have the shutter circuit connected to the relay and switch that usually control my auxiliary driving lights. I'll need to add more relays to control my growing collection of lighting upgrades. Maybe a Bussman box or SPOD is in my future.

49688596397_bc3d41a0e4_c.jpg


Warning: If you attempt this mod, you will need to figure out a way to prevent your DRL mode from pinging the shutters. Older 5th gen 4Runners use PWM to dim the high beams for DRL duty. If you are using a trigger from the high-beam circuit (like an add-a-fuse etc.), you must not directly connect it to the custom connector. Otherwise, when you turn on DRLs you will rapidly signal the shutters at a high frequency, which may wear them out or destroy them.

50619643877_ab92400159_c.jpg


The way my switch and relay is laid out, I have dual control- meaning I can activate the shutters anytime in LOW and they toggle with the ordinary high beam circuit in HIGH. I can also can turn it off completely to avoid DRL buzzing the relay. However, the circuit can still be exposed if I forget to turn the switch off. Eventually I plan to build a capacitor filter to prevent the problem entirely.

Since I messed up my harness and need to wait for more wire sleeving to try again, I have not had any road experience with the quad high-beam setup. However, I am VERY impressed with the quality and intensity of the factory LED units in low beam in comparison to the older halogen units. As Crash shows in his test data here, the LED units are nearly twice as performant as the best halogen bulb upgrade and nearly three times as intense as the factory equipped halogen bulbs.

Also as suspected, the halogen reflectors are much better than the bi-LED only high beams, and they can get even better with a 9011 bulb upgrade. With an older truck and some custom wire harnessing, you can easily achieve a quad high beam setup for ultimate headlight performance! I will update when I get the new harness finished.

Dave on Tacomaworld was hugely helpful in making this happen. If you're interested in the same modification, you might want to contact him here. If it is popular enough, he might consider adding it to his custom wiring store here. He is an awesome dude and huge asset to the Toyota community.


congrats on the set up , and write up to help others on this. Where would the connection need to be use the stalk on the steering wheel for high beams.

The 9011 bulb is high halogen/drl for the 21-22 models, I may install a LED one to match . I do like the color though for the DRL vs LED . A seller included a set of them in a lock'er down safe I bought.
 
it is so ridiculous that we need to go through so much to get decent headlights in these rigs, such a major oversight by toyota.
 
congrats on the set up , and write up to help others on this. Where would the connection need to be use the stalk on the steering wheel for high beams.

The HIGH circuit of my 3-way switch is tapped into one of the high-beam fuses in the engine bay fuse box. That allows the shutters to activate when I toggle the high-beam stalk. But i need to be careful and make sure i don't use DRL mode with the switch still turned on. Otherwise I could buzz the relay/shutters very quickly and damage them.

The 9011 bulb is high halogen/drl for the 21-22 models, I may install a LED one to match . I do like the color though for the DRL vs LED . A seller included a set of them in a lock'er down safe I bought.

If you are using the reflectors as high beams, I suggest staying with halogen bulbs as they are much higher performing than any of the goofball aftermarket LED bulbs you can fit in there. The stock bulb is 9005 but you can use an even brighter 9011 HIR bulb very easily as detailed in my post above.

If you are using the reflectors as DRL only and you prefer the pure white color of LED, I suggest following the write-up here . He was able to convert the 6V series wiring to 12V which is much friendlier to LED bulbs. He then used HP48 9005 bulbs from Diode Dynamics (which are not real headlight bulbs, they are decorative replacements only) for a pretty good DRL setup.

it is so ridiculous that we need to go through so much to get decent headlights in these rigs, such a major oversight by toyota.

The good news is that these basically swap right into the older trucks and adapter harnesses will be easy to come by soon. Rejoice!
 
I did the 2021 led retrofit on my 2018 ORP as well. It took me about three hours in total, and it was the first time I’d taken off the front bumper so I really took my time. It was a relatively easy install thanks to the previous posters and the YouTube video. Everything works as it should. I’ll do a test drive when it stops raining.

Did you go through Toyota to get these? After the side runners and recovery hooks, this is really the only front facing upgrade I have in mind for my new gal. I've looked into third party HID options but I'd much rather go OEM if possible.
 
Did you go through Toyota to get these? After the side runners and recovery hooks, this is really the only front facing upgrade I have in mind for my new gal. I've looked into third party HID options but I'd much rather go OEM if possible.

secondary market is cheaper from 200-900 range typically. Dealership best price Ive seen was $1200 -1300 on sale
 
OEM conversion harnesses for LED headlights are now live at FBC!

OEM LED conversion harness

You have the option of including a wire for the shutter, or you can order with only two pins if you have the 2021 low-beam only headlights or if you decide you don't want quad high beams. These are built to order and allow you to convert your 14-20 4Runner with halogen headlights to the new 2021 and up factory LED headlights.
 

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