285/75/16 and UCA's

shadow247

New member
I have read a few posts here that mention 285's rubbing the UCA. I plan to run a 1/4 inch spacer on the front. If that is not enough clearance I am thinking I will grind a bit of the UCA. I don't really want to run the Spidertrax or similar spacers for cost reasons, since I am already at almost 500 into the lift with all the new front end parts I am putting on.

Is it safe to grind a little off the UCA to clear the tires?
 
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Depends on your wheels.

I believe the stock wheels will clear the upper A-arms...

You can buy 1" bolt on wheel adapters/spacers on eBay for a fraction of the cost than from Spidertrax, but... they don't have that pretty blue finish. HA!
 
Nor are they Hub-centric for the most part. My 285/70/17's don't rub, but then again I have -12mm offset on a 9" wide wheel. Speaking of which, upgrading your wheels is a super-expensive, but very fun solution to UCA rubbing :D:
 
you will have to run longer studs to use a 1/4" washer style spacer. the factory studs i dont think will be long enough, you wont get enough of a secure bite on the threads. so by the time you go and buy your 1/4" spacer, and then longer studs and possibly new lugs for the longer studs, you may as well just buy an actual bolt on spacer, trail gear sells a 1" bolt on spacer. i have them on my tuck and they work great no complaints at all
 
What about just grinding the UCA's? There is a lot of metal there and I would think taking off just enough to clear the tires would not hurt them.
 
My tires started rubbing on my UCA but just barely... It started happening when i got my FJ wheels and 265/70/17's. I kinda have a feeling that my top plate spacer plus longer shock (tundra 5100's) can be causing this. I'm changing my springs to 3" ones from toytec so i can eliminate the spacer and put the shocks on the first setting. if this doesn't fix it, i'm getting some spacers because i want to go up to 285's.
 
you will have to run longer studs to use a 1/4" washer style spacer. the factory studs i dont think will be long enough, you wont get enough of a secure bite on the threads. so by the time you go and buy your 1/4" spacer, and then longer studs and possibly new lugs for the longer studs, you may as well just buy an actual bolt on spacer, trail gear sells a 1" bolt on spacer. i have them on my tuck and they work great no complaints at all

Eh? You're running 1" spacers w/ your 17" tundra wheels w/ 285s? I thought you said you had no lift and no spacers? (edit: wheel spacers)

Sorry if I'm confused. I just want to know what all I'll need before I pull the trigger and buy tires and have them mounted.

Thanks!
 
Eh? You're running 1" spacers w/ your 17" tundra wheels w/ 285s? I thought you said you had no lift and no spacers? (edit: wheel spacers)

Sorry if I'm confused. I just want to know what all I'll need before I pull the trigger and buy tires and have them mounted.

Thanks!

no no not on my runner, but on my truck, im running the trail gear spacers on my truck. my runner has no spacers(wheel or spring) and no lift. and i am running 285 70 17s with no issues on my 4runner.
 
I'd rather run wheel spacers than spend 250 bucks on the control arms! I'm hoping I can grind a bit and get the clearance I need!
 
If Steve does it i'm not sure why you can't. I know he probably has A TON more experience than you, but it doesn't look like rocket science... I will probably do this if my problem isn't fixed.
 
i run 285/75/16's.. i grinded the UCA's slightly and i rubbed BUT i have a little positive camber. I rubbed real bad tho, enough the car wouldnt move until i slipped on the 1/4 disc brake spacers.. which was just enough to get me home :) . Our studs up front are smaller than they should be IMO but i was able to get a solid 6 revolutions with 1/4" spacers on. That being said i couldnt turn without rubbing so i finally slapped on some spidertrax spacers. I first cheaped out with the trail gear stud-centrics and you cant get enough bite on the nuts with these, i returned them and got the spiders which fit perfect :) If you do go the stud centric cheapies you may need some E/T open end nuts.. al pro makes them.
 

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