285/75/16 on Toytec Aluma Boss 2.0???

[ccampbell01]

Before you read any further I swear I’ve sorted through about 5 hours of posts and still haven’t come up with a clear answer LOL.

Recently got a nail in one of my tires and figured what a better time to add some New rubber! I’m running the toytec aluma boss 2.0 coil overs in the front set at the standard height they come and SPC adjustable UCAs up front and OME891 with billies in the rear (they were on the truck when I bought it)..so my question is if I decide to run 285/75/16 from all I can tell is the punch weld may need to take a beating with a BFH but I wanted to get some opinions before I pull the trigger!

Once again sorry for beating a dead horse but just need a little clarity from the T4R Gods!

 

[Bad Luck]

Before you read any further I swear I’ve sorted through about 5 hours of posts and still haven’t come up with a clear answer LOL.

Recently got a nail in one of my tires and figured what a better time to add some New rubber! I’m running the toytec aluma boss 2.0 coil overs in the front set at the standard height they come and SPC adjustable UCAs up front and OME891 with billies in the rear (they were on the truck when I bought it)..so my question is if I decide to run 285/75/16 from all I can tell is the punch weld may need to take a beating with a BFH but I wanted to get some opinions before I pull the trigger!

Once again sorry for beating a dead horse but just need a little clarity from the T4R Gods!

I can confidently answer you with a 100 percent solid "maybe"... It really depends on a number of factors including actual tire size, wheel width/backspacing, wheel spacers, alignment, what setting your spc upper control arms are on, and if Mars is in retrograde or not. Typically speaking though some gentle massaging with a bfh is all that's required to clearance for 285's. Make sure to account for wheel up travel when you clearance. Some of the mall curbs around me are pretty gnarly.

 

[ccampbell01]

I can confidently answer you with a 100 percent solid "maybe"... It really depends on a number of factors including actual tire size, wheel width/backspacing, wheel spacers, alignment, what setting your spc upper control arms are on, and if Mars is in retrograde or not. Typically speaking though some gentle massaging with a bfh is all that's required to clearance for 285's. Make sure to account for wheel up travel when you clearance. Some of the mall curbs around me are pretty gnarly.

Hahah solid maybe! Well hopefully mars is in retrograde! thanks for the input.

 

[spartacus]

BFH also 1 inch body lift and it will be fine.

 

[AZSportRunner]

Everyone here is right 285's are a definite maybe … albeit a very likely one. You certainly won't have to worry about tubbing your firewall or anything crazy. That being said if you're opposed to a little hammering a 1" BL would definitely solve it on the cheap.

Two important questions:

1. Do you have a specific tire in mind? 285's run the gamut depending on brand/model. This would help inform people's answers a lot.

2. Have you considered 255/85/16's ? They are slightly taller but 1.2" skinnier (slightly better mpg's/rolling resistance) and tend to require much less clearancing to leave the UCA, pinch weld, and frame unmolested. Depending on the kind of wheeling you do or if the truck is mostly street driven this could be a great solution! I loved my Maxxis Bighorns in in 255 so much that come time to go to 315 (35's) I stuck with the same tire over the other options.

Sorry for the long winded response; hope this helps!

 

[carguy92]

Not to hijack your thread but how do you like the Toytec Aluma setup. I've been considering it but haven't heard much feedback. Any pictures of how it sits?

 

[sportscarfan]

BFH also 1 inch body lift and it will be fine.

Mine has been set up this way for TEN years. OEM '99 "highlander" springs, stock shocks up front, Gabriel hijacker rear air shocks in the rear (for extra load carrying), 1" body lift, beat the pinch weld flat. 285/75-16 goodyear duratrac's.

THEY WILL RUB near the beaten flat pinch weld area at certain steering angles when the front suspension is articulated (off road). Also, at full steering lock, the side lugs rub the frame.

Knowing this, I drive around the rubbing issues.

 

[ccampbell01]

Not to hijack your thread but how do you like the Toytec Aluma setup. I've been considering it but haven't heard much feedback. Any pictures of how it sits?

I really dig them! I’ve had them on for about 3 months now and have had zero complaints. The front end was pretty stiff to begin with and this is like riding on a cloud. Haven’t got a change to really test them on anything serious yet but hopefully soon with some new rubber if I can decide on a tire size!

I do recommend the SPC UCAs to combo with them or at least another UCA setup like total chaos.

 

[ccampbell01]

No pics yet..not really proud of my rig running around town looking like it skipped leg day!

 

[ccampbell01]

I can confidently answer you with a 100 percent solid "maybe"... It really depends on a number of factors including actual tire size, wheel width/backspacing, wheel spacers, alignment, what setting your spc upper control arms are on, and if Mars is in retrograde or not. Typically speaking though some gentle massaging with a bfh is all that's required to clearance for 285's. Make sure to account for wheel up travel when you clearance. Some of the mall curbs around me are pretty gnarly.

I’m not a huge fan of the idea of wheel spacers but would that make much of a difference in the amount of rub. The wheels I’ll be running are 4 backspace. From what I’ve seen most guys are running at least 1 inch spacers with the 1 inch BL.

 

[96RedRunner]

[MENTION=319302]Bad Luck[/MENTION] right on with Maybe.
How much lift do you have ? makes a difference.
4" BS with usual offset works without spacers from what I researched before last set purchased.
SPC's setting & right alignment gives you good bit of wiggle room.
Upgrading the Bumpstops good idea.
Save BFH & BL till later how you wheel you may not need but in worse case.

 

[Bad Luck]

I’m not a huge fan of the idea of wheel spacers but would that make much of a difference in the amount of rub. The wheels I’ll be running are 4 backspace. From what I’ve seen most guys are running at least 1 inch spacers with the 1 inch BL.

Wheel spacers push the wheel further outward. Let's take for example the driver front wheel turned all the way to the left. A wheel spacer (or wheels with less back spacing) will move the outside portion of the tire tread (outer sidewall) closer to the firewall in the rear of the wheel well, but also move the inner portion of tire tread (inner sidewall) further away from the frame. Generally speaking wheel spacers/wheels with less backspacing will require more wheel well clearancing vs no wheel spacers/wheels with less backspacing. It's kind of a balancing act between rubbing on frame while turning and requiring more trimming/clearancing in the wheel well.

I hope this all made sense and thanks for tuning into my Ted Talk on Tires

EDIT: Too much wheel backspacing (higher number) can cause interference with upper and/or lower control arms.

 

[OffRoadRy]

Before you read any further I swear I’ve sorted through about 5 hours of posts and still haven’t come up with a clear answer LOL.

Recently got a nail in one of my tires and figured what a better time to add some New rubber! I’m running the toytec aluma boss 2.0 coil overs in the front set at the standard height they come and SPC adjustable UCAs up front and OME891 with billies in the rear (they were on the truck when I bought it)..so my question is if I decide to run 285/75/16 from all I can tell is the punch weld may need to take a beating with a BFH but I wanted to get some opinions before I pull the trigger!

Once again sorry for beating a dead horse but just need a little clarity from the T4R Gods!

Hey man, I think I’ve got some good input for you!

I actually just put 285/75/R16 BFG KO2 tires on stock 5spoke rims on my 1999 4R with the Toytec AlumaBoss coil overs and SPC arms! I originally had quite a bit of problems because the alignment shop wouldn’t listen. Long story short, I came back 4 times for alignments and dumped a lot of money on making them fit correctly:

I’m sure you’ve read about how to move the tire forward in the wheel well with the OE adjusters. If you do this yourself (maybe outside of the alignment shop so you don’t have to drive it very far as it will mess up your tow) and then tell them to ONLY touch the upper control arm to adjust the Castor and camber, you should be able to move the tire forward enough that you don’t have any frame rubbing. I can send you a pic that Tom at SPC Customer Service sent me.

I had to firmly explain what to do to the alignment shop as they clearly didn’t understand how to work the SPC arms. I called Tom from SPC customer service (he personally owns a 1999 T4R) Tom from SPC was beyond helpful & talked on the phone with the shop and told them exactly what to do with the alignment specs they had. Now, there is plenty of frame clearance!! The only issue I had left was that when the suspension would travel down (off road), the upper SPC control arm would droop and touch the side of the tire. I reluctantly put some spidertraxx on and that issue is completely solved. No rubbing and I actually really enjoy the spacers now. (And yes I had to trim the front bumper plastic a little- easy!)

Hope this helps and PM me if you want some pics/have any specific questions. (Can’t seem to post pics on this forum- I’m new to replying LOL)

 

[ccampbell01]

Hey man, I think I’ve got some good input for you!

I actually just put 285/75/R16 BFG KO2 tires on stock 5spoke rims on my 1999 4R with the Toytec AlumaBoss coil overs and SPC arms! I originally had quite a bit of problems because the alignment shop wouldn’t listen. Long story short, I came back 4 times for alignments and dumped a lot of money on making them fit correctly:

I’m sure you’ve read about how to move the tire forward in the wheel well with the OE adjusters. If you do this yourself (maybe outside of the alignment shop so you don’t have to drive it very far as it will mess up your tow) and then tell them to ONLY touch the upper control arm to adjust the Castor and camber, you should be able to move the tire forward enough that you don’t have any frame rubbing. I can send you a pic that Tom at SPC Customer Service sent me.

I had to firmly explain what to do to the alignment shop as they clearly didn’t understand how to work the SPC arms. I called Tom from SPC customer service (he personally owns a 1999 T4R) Tom from SPC was beyond helpful & talked on the phone with the shop and told them exactly what to do with the alignment specs they had. Now, there is plenty of frame clearance!! The only issue I had left was that when the suspension would travel down (off road), the upper SPC control arm would droop and touch the side of the tire. I reluctantly put some spidertraxx on and that issue is completely solved. No rubbing and I actually really enjoy the spacers now. (And yes I had to trim the front bumper plastic a little- easy!)

Hope this helps and PM me if you want some pics/have any specific questions. (Can’t seem to post pics on this forum- I’m new to replying LOL)

Thanks dude! That’s a wealth of info! What size spacers did you go with? Also does adjusting the wheel forward have any negative affects? I imagine it has to have some cons being that it’s not factory placement ya know. Just trying to cover all the basis to see if this is worth the bigger tire haha. Thanks again for the info!