2WD Aftermarket Driveline Recommendations?

[tbryanh]

2WD Aftermarket Driveline Recommendations?

Apparently the stock driveline on my 2WD 2000 4Runner is a tube-in-tube design (an inner and outer tube with a rubber bushing inbetween). I suspect the driveline was made this way to reduce weight. Problem is, the rubber bushing can wear out and let the inner tube move off-center causing the driveline to become imbalanced and cause a heavy vibration. (Visual inspection may not reveal this problem.)

I have a heavy vibration that starts at about 50 mph and gets worse at higher speeds. Even though the u-joints appear to be OK, I suspect the driveshaft is bad.


I want to upgrade to a single-tube driveline that has the same diameter as the stock driveline. I suppose its OK if its heavier. I am not looking for a super beefy and expensive offroad driveline. I just need something for a daily driver. Probably with sealed u-joint bearings (no zerk fittings).

Any recommendations will be much appreciated. Thanks.

 

[phattyduck]

The rubber isolator on the 2WD driveshaft is to reduce the mechanical vibration/wear on the u-joints that are inherent in the design. Single u-joints are not CV joints and there is a slight rotational speed oscillation during normal operation that the rubber is meant to absorb.

You have found the weakness though - if the rubber wears out, the driveshaft 'bends' at the isolator and causes massive vibrations.

You can get a replacement solid shaft from any driveline shop - they are all capable of making one. Heck, you can get one from Rock Auto.

I had a local driveshaft shop make my replacement before I did the 4WD swap. Easy as pie to replace - 4 bolts/nuts and you can pull it right out.

-Charlie

 

[tbryanh]

This is some good info Charlie.

Seems maybe it is best to have the isolator in there. Besides risk to the bearings in the u-joints wearing out sooner with no isolator, how might the transmission and differential be affected?

 

[phattyduck]

This is some good info Charlie.

Seems maybe it is best to have the isolator in there. Besides risk to the bearings in the u-joints wearing out sooner with no isolator, how might the transmission and differential be affected?

It would put 'extra' wear on all the driveline components - but 'extra' is relative. There are tons of vehicles out there with fixed drive shafts with no issues.

The only source for the OEM style shaft is from Toyota for $500+ if you can still get it...

-Charlie

 

[tbryanh]

Is it only the 3rd Gen 2WD 4Runners that have an isolator in the driveline, or do all generations of 2WD 4Runners have it?

If its only the 3rd Gen, then I am thinking maybe Toyota originally tried a fixed (no isolator) driveline and detected some problem during testing and then came up with the isolator as a bandaid type of fix.

Any more info on this? Thanks.

 

[davidch]

I installed a driveshaft from this company

Driveshaft Specialist Inc

on a friend's 2WD 4-cylinder, automatic transmission, 4Runner, a '98 I think.

He's well-pleased.

<< Switch to New York accent >> They know from driveshafts.

 

[tbryanh]

Maybe the isolator is there to quiet down the drive shaft rather than to prevent wear on U-Joint bearings and possibly other drive train components.

The engine has a resonator to quiet down the air intake noise.

It seems Toyota was trying to make the 3rd gen a luxury SUV. (leather seats, moon roof, digital gadgets, special rims, special trim, etc.) Having a quiet interior is important for making a vehicle a luxury vehicle.

 

[tbryanh]

Drivelines are hollow, and I have heard they can make noise from the differential sound louder than it would if the driveline were solid.

I have heard of people drilling a small hole in the driveline and filling part of the inside of it with expanding foam to quiet it down.

The isolator appears to be a weak link in the drive train. If it is there to quiet down the drive train and not to reduce wear on components, then I don't want it.

 

[phattyduck]

The isolator appears to be a weak link in the drive train. If it is there to quiet down the drive train and not to reduce wear on components, then I don't want it.

Not sure why you are spending so much mental energy on this. Get a new prop shaft before you ruin your transmission and rear diff from the vibration.

If you want perfect OEM, get the OEM shaft. Otherwise, any other shaft will be fine. I noticed no issues with a solid shaft on mine for the 5k or so I ran it before the 4WD swap.

-Charlie

 

[tbryanh]

I'm not driving that 4Runner right now. I switched to my other 4Runner. Testimonies help. I want what's most reliable. Don't care about restoration to OEM. The car is not a collector item or show piece. I am going to put in an aftermarket solid drive shaft without the isolator.

Never seen a driveline with an isolator in it before. Seemed very strange to me, and I wanted to get to the bottom of it. Yeah, I do wind up with headaches sometimes by spending such mental energy with things, but I get a satisfaction from that despite the headache.

Thanks for all the help Charlie!

 

[phattyduck]

I want what's most reliable.

Most reliable? Get a new OEM one and enjoy another 200k miles and 20 years of maintenance free driveline... Unless you are planning over 100k more miles though, an aftermarket one will be cheaper and work just fine - though likely you get greaseable u-joints with that and will have a *slight* bit of extra maintenance.

-Charlie