2WD rear driveshaft & U-joint info needed

[Dezert4Runner]

Ok, I've got some vibrations from my driveshaft/drivetrain on my 96 2WD V6 Auto runner; mostly at freeway speeds especially when decelerating. I've researched and all signs point towards bad u-joints. Anyone have first hand experience doing a DIY grease / u-joint repair on a 2WD? They seem like the red-headed stepchild of driveshaft issues.

Here's my questions:

1. 2WD rear driveshafts have no zerks to lube, so is there actually any way to grease the driveshaft/ u-joints?

2. Is there replacement u-joints for 2WD 4Runners, and if so, anyone have part numbers? Brands?

3. Will there be problems aligning a used driveshaft to the 3rd member/ tranny? I've seen the videos on YouTube on How to Replace u-joints, and they use alignment marks for reference when re-installing the driveshaft so everything's balanced.

Thanks in advance.

 

[ChildrenOfBodom]

3. Will there be problems aligning a used driveshaft to the 3rd member/ tranny? I've seen the videos on YouTube on How to Replace u-joints, and they use alignment marks for reference when re-installing the driveshaft so everything's balanced.

Thanks in advance.

Those alignment marks are for 4WD driveshafts with slip yolks on the shaft (as opposed to at the end sliding to the transmission). 2WD driveshafts are one solid tube. Notice the 4WD driveshaft has flanges at both ends instead of a slip yolk.

4WD driveshaft:

 

[nevada]

are you getting any noise along with the vibrations?

and have you crawled under the truck to verify? if its bad enough to vibrate, you should be able to see it. an offset joint, or rust around the cap is a sure sign.


it could also be a rear diff bearing, or loose pinion nut.

 

[RHeld24]

I have a '96 2wd also and have had the same issue a couple times before. The first time I replaced the entire drive shaft, cardan joints and all, with one at the junkyard (that didn't last long). Second time they started to go bad I put a little more research in and realized you could replace them. The front and rear joints are the same, I believe, and can be had new for pretty cheap (under $50). Trouble is you need to press the old ones out and the new ones in (I got clever with a hammer and some carefully placed supports).

The new joints/bearings have grease fittings but can't be reached with a typical grease gun adapter/head. You'll need to get a needle head fitting for the grease gun to get into the tight spaces where the grease fittings on the cardan joint are.

Also, before you remove the drive shaft, make alignment marks on the mounting flanges to make sure it goes back in the same way. I'll try to get you a part number...

 

[nissanh]

I too had the same problem 4x4.
I could feel a small free movement at the rear pinion end U-joint. So I watched videos and replaced it simply by using a pliers, hammer and a box socket.

First make the shaft with the transmission end and pinion end with a white marker.

Remove the retaining clips and then hammer the U-joint (youtube video). Get your U-joint and make sure to instal the retaining clips. you dont have to balance the shaft if you get the clips right on.

I spend an hour to replace 1 U-joint.
Seems to be the entire shaft was bad. Then bought a used shaft (donor truck has 320 K miles!) and it works great! Spend only $40 for the entire used shaft.

Choice is yours.

Either way.. Have fun!

 

[Dezert4Runner]

Those alignment marks are for 4WD driveshafts with slip yolks on the shaft (as opposed to at the end sliding to the transmission). 2WD driveshafts are one solid tube. Notice the 4WD driveshaft has flanges at both ends instead of a slip yolk.

I was under the impression the rear u-joint where the flange that connects to the rear end needs the alignment marks so those 4 bolts are bolted back together in the same orientation as they were removed due to "balance" issues

are you getting any noise along with the vibrations?

and have you crawled under the truck to verify? if its bad enough to vibrate, you should be able to see it. an offset joint, or rust around the cap is a sure sign.


it could also be a rear diff bearing, or loose pinion nut.

I am only getting bad vibrations at freeway speeds at around 1800 RPM's and/or when decelerating. No "clunks" or any other noises. Seems at slow speeds especially when turning recently I started feeling a small vibration on every roation of the wheels or driveshaft- something rotating... Definitely coming form the rear half of the vehicle, not the front.

I just got under there and checked the u-joints on both ends for visible play, and they seem tight. I'm starting to wonder if the rear diff or associated parts is the culprit. How would I be able to tell?

I have a '96 2wd also and have had the same issue a couple times before. The first time I replaced the entire drive shaft, cardan joints and all, with one at the junkyard (that didn't last long). Second time they started to go bad I put a little more research in and realized you could replace them. The front and rear joints are the same, I believe, and can be had new for pretty cheap (under $50). Trouble is you need to press the old ones out and the new ones in (I got clever with a hammer and some carefully placed supports).

The new joints/bearings have grease fittings but can't be reached with a typical grease gun adapter/head. You'll need to get a needle head fitting for the grease gun to get into the tight spaces where the grease fittings on the cardan joint are.

Also, before you remove the drive shaft, make alignment marks on the mounting flanges to make sure it goes back in the same way. I'll try to get you a part number...

This is what's confusing me at the moment, because there's only 1 flange (at the rear where it connects with the rear diff), and the front of the driveshaft the stub or "spindle" that goes into the tranny, as COB said, is smooth and is just a tight fit? Can this part be greased manually with a run of the mill grease (moly grease?) then re-inserted?



Thanks for the help guys.

 

[Dous]

Yea go ahead and put plenty of grease on the transmission input shaft, not too much though or it will be hard to install because grease does not compress

Also make a match mark on the flange at the 3rd, not hard to do and will make you feel better

I never match marked mine and never knew a difference, but it's easy and is insurance against any vibrations

 

[fourwd1]

Like in the pic above, alignment is critical on a shaft with a slip joint (4WD). A 2WD shaft doesn't have that so it's not a problem. The orientation where the shaft's flange bolts to the diff isn't an issue.

 

[lloyd bonafide]

No Zerks on the 2WD. Loosen the 4 bolts at the rear of the drive shaft (14mm). You will need box wrenches to do this - no room for sockets. Now, mark the front of the shaft as it exits the transmission with some chalk or welder soap or something similar so you can re-install it in the same location.

Now, you are going to need a BFH (big hammer) to dislodge the rear of the driveshaft from the differential. The drive shaft should slip out from the transmission without difficulty.

The hardest part is replacing the U-joints. You will need a large vise and some sockets or something similar. Autozone and other parts houses will loan you a tool for this. If the original u-joints have been in there for a while, they will be very hard to remove. Once you have them out, clean the yokes and remove rust with sandpaper or something similar. You should be able to reassemble the new u-joints without much difficulty.

Word of caution. I did this 9 months ago and replaced with the Autozone Gold u-joints with a lifetime warranty. It turns out the warranty was only good for 9 months as that is as long as they lasted. I repeated the same procedure today and replaced with Toyota parts with zerk fittings. The Autozone u-joints evidently lost all the lifetime lubrication within a few days because when I replaced them today, they were rusted and absent of all lubricant. There was a pile of rust on the floor when I removed the Autozone u-joints. Save some aggravation and buy the real parts the first time.

Reassemble and you should be vibration free. It only took me an hour to do it today after spending hours the first time (the 11 year old ujoints were difficult to remove).

Good luck.

Lloyd

 

[nissanh]

I know toyotas since 87. if you put into test a rebuilt toyota engine and a used toyota engine with about 150 K miles, I bet the used engine will still run longer and produce fast accelerations than the 100% rebuild engine. Same thing applies if you use after market parts even though they are brand new. Used toyota parts still runs far better!

Lack of maintenance is the main reason why toyota's fail otherwise they should run as long as you live.

If you buy a part from auto zone that says made in Mexico, Good luck!

 

[RHeld24]

On a side note, I wouldn't put grease on the tailshaft yoke splines that come out of the transmission. They are lubricated by/with ATF (at least with the 2WD/A340E). I would assume that the grease would become incorporated with the ATF and cause issues. If you can, just lube the splines with ATF before reinstall.

As far as the part #'s, I used the AutoZone Gold units as well. They are starting to go bad after only a year's worth of use. I'd go with genuine Toyota parts.

 

[Dezert4Runner]

Quick update

Just finished re-installing my rebuilt DS after taking it into a driveline shop and getting the u-joints replaced and having it balanced. With my lack of a vice and work schedule I decided to have it done. Problem solved. No more vibes on the freeway!

PS- the DS from a 4 cyl 2wd auto T4R is 2 1/8" SHORTER than mine (V6 2wd auto). Not an interchangeable part:dammit: