Is the dealer asking for more time to look at the truck that you are unwilling to pay for? I don't see why they wouldn't check timing (jumping time can cause this) or signals from the EFI/spark controlling sensors.
3.4 turns over but won't start
- Thread starter Jon
- Start date
Is the dealer asking for more time to look at the truck that you are unwilling to pay for? I don't see why they wouldn't check timing (jumping time can cause this) or signals from the EFI/spark controlling sensors.
I’m trying to get ahold of the technician to speak with him directly which should help. I don’t mind paying for a couple hours if they can find the issue though. They just don’t seem all that interested in finding the problem. I was hoping to have them find the problem with it not running and then I was going to do the tuneup, clean the intake, etc. I’ll let you all know what I find out, hopefully tomorrow! I’d be actually happy if it is the timing belt. Lol, I was going to do that anyways if I ever get this thing running. Although I’m sure the dealership will charge a lot, I’d get a Saturday back to do other things.
The dealership spent over 6 hours on it (only charged me 2 or 2.5 hours) and no charge for the New ECU that didn’t fix the problem. Was thinking of towing it back home and trying to do digging through the electrical myself. No communication between the motor and ECU. If a new ECU didn’t work, and all the fuses are good, any ideas of where to start? Hate to scrap this thing out. Any ground wires I should check and locations? This really has me stumped along with the dealership. Not sure where else to go.
Well, turns out the dealership didn’t check the Crankshaft Position Sensor and that was the issue. Ugh, a lot of work for an easy fix. Had a clogged injector and few other small things. Runs pretty good now. Throwing a P0171 code which sounds like the MAS needs cleaned. I’ll tackle that next weekend along with a few other things.
BamaDrewski
New member
There's a lesson to be learned here. Always listen to the random guy on the internet. He's probably definitely right
Glad you got it fixed!
Ha! Thank you! I specifically asked the dealership if they checked the CPS 3 times and they sent me a diagnostic that said “it was a wiring issue in the harness”. Anyways, I’m happy it’s running so I do the rest of the work on it in my driveway. Safe to say I will never go back to that dealership again. They had left my fuel pump disconnected, most of the spark plugs loose and left the car unlocked in their lot. $300 diagnostic that told me absolute wrong issue on top of everything else.
It's relatively quick and easy to check the cam and crank signals at the ECU. Which is why I'm baffled they took the time to replace the brain but didn't check this. Many times I've had a vehicle presenting his exact symptoms it ended up being one of the two. Oh well. Its back running and on to the next thing.
Similar issue
Trying to find a relatable tshoot thread for my issues and this one is the closest I’ve found so far... my 97 limited has been occasionally having prolonged cranking issues, no fire. Sometimes I’ll start it 10-15 times or more with no issues, and sometimes it won’t start at all. I did the switcharoo with the EFI relay (under dash and in bay panel) and that worked for a couple of weeks, but now it’s having the issues more frequently. Seems like it happens on sloped surfaces more than flat, so I reckon I’m gonna check the pump tomorrow morning. Any other suggestions?
Trying to find a relatable tshoot thread for my issues and this one is the closest I’ve found so far... my 97 limited has been occasionally having prolonged cranking issues, no fire. Sometimes I’ll start it 10-15 times or more with no issues, and sometimes it won’t start at all. I did the switcharoo with the EFI relay (under dash and in bay panel) and that worked for a couple of weeks, but now it’s having the issues more frequently. Seems like it happens on sloped surfaces more than flat, so I reckon I’m gonna check the pump tomorrow morning. Any other suggestions?
This might be a more appropriate thread to post on since I have similar ish issue:
I'm trying to find more diagnostic troubleshooting for my car.
It cranks strong but no start. Checked for spark by pulling the plug and boot and holding in on a ground (frame) and it does a 1 small spark and done.
I believe it's supposed to continue sparking right???
So it doesn't seem like the fuel....can I rule out a bad pump already???
Can anyone tell me what other LIST of stuff i need to check which might cause the 1 small spark?
I noted down the stuff people said in this thread and will report back on this. (EFI relay / ground / vacuum lines / MAF etc.) just curious if there's any more..
I'm trying to find more diagnostic troubleshooting for my car.
It cranks strong but no start. Checked for spark by pulling the plug and boot and holding in on a ground (frame) and it does a 1 small spark and done.
I believe it's supposed to continue sparking right???
So it doesn't seem like the fuel....can I rule out a bad pump already???
Can anyone tell me what other LIST of stuff i need to check which might cause the 1 small spark?
I noted down the stuff people said in this thread and will report back on this. (EFI relay / ground / vacuum lines / MAF etc.) just curious if there's any more..
Kamikaze6rr
New member
I am having the same issue on a 2000 i just purchased. Older owner is saying his kid says the one of the keys are bad, Car runs great but when i turn off and go to start cranks strong no ignition, after a couple tries it starts right up.
Would love to understand why I am having this issue.
Anyone else have any luck on a definitive answer?
Would love to understand why I am having this issue.
Anyone else have any luck on a definitive answer?
So after my mechanic/mechanics across the street tried to diagnose my issue a couple posts above, the conclusion was something to do with the immobilizer.
Because apparently remote start works 100% of the time, and with the key, it was working like 20% of the time. They didn't charge me for diagnose fee.
They couldn't test further because I only had 2 keys, and the other one is being used for my remote start (already buried somewhere deep in that kick panel)
So what I did is I bought these exact keys from eBay (NEW REPLACEMENT TOYOTA 4C CHIP TRANSPONDER MASTER IGNITION KEY FOR 89785-26020 | eBay)
Then I used these steps to program them myself after my mechanic's friend cut the key for me (also no charge )
2000 4Runner Key Programming Instructions
Worked instantly.
However, to get to the point, I didn't encounter the starting issue again, and it's been at least 2k miles.
But at least I learned something new and now have 2 extra master keys in case they need to diagnose further.
The only thing I can think of is that I was low on gas when they were diagnosing it (I think the low gas light was on) and when I picked it up, I filled up gas right there since it was the mechanics from the gas station across my regular mechanic. I did try going low on gas again to see if it'll occur but it hasn't yet.
Because apparently remote start works 100% of the time, and with the key, it was working like 20% of the time. They didn't charge me for diagnose fee.
They couldn't test further because I only had 2 keys, and the other one is being used for my remote start (already buried somewhere deep in that kick panel)
So what I did is I bought these exact keys from eBay (NEW REPLACEMENT TOYOTA 4C CHIP TRANSPONDER MASTER IGNITION KEY FOR 89785-26020 | eBay)
Then I used these steps to program them myself after my mechanic's friend cut the key for me (also no charge
)2000 4Runner Key Programming Instructions
Worked instantly.
However, to get to the point, I didn't encounter the starting issue again, and it's been at least 2k miles.
But at least I learned something new and now have 2 extra master keys in case they need to diagnose further.
The only thing I can think of is that I was low on gas when they were diagnosing it (I think the low gas light was on) and when I picked it up, I filled up gas right there since it was the mechanics from the gas station across my regular mechanic. I did try going low on gas again to see if it'll occur but it hasn't yet.
Similar story:
2000 SR5 V6 4x4 auto
Engine turns but won't catch.
Code reader is coming back with "error" which is a first for me.
Vacume lines look ok. I did have a period where it was occasionally difficult to start. That was eventually solved with new plugs and wires. I did have a P0171 & 420 code a few months ago that were resolved with a new MAF and TB cleaning. Vehicle has 225k and original CAT so a clogged CAT is a possibility, but the error on the scanner is confusing me. Thinking of testing the CPS and then looking into testing the fuel pump (never messed with one of those before).
2000 SR5 V6 4x4 auto
Engine turns but won't catch.
Code reader is coming back with "error" which is a first for me.
Vacume lines look ok. I did have a period where it was occasionally difficult to start. That was eventually solved with new plugs and wires. I did have a P0171 & 420 code a few months ago that were resolved with a new MAF and TB cleaning. Vehicle has 225k and original CAT so a clogged CAT is a possibility, but the error on the scanner is confusing me. Thinking of testing the CPS and then looking into testing the fuel pump (never messed with one of those before).
brillo_76
Elite Member
Plug a code reader in and check for rpms. when you crack and you see rpms that's good. If you crack and it says 0 rpm while cranking the crank sensor failed. If the computer doesn't see rpm it will not kick on the fuel pump.
My code reader (innova 3030+) is giving me an "error" message. Its a super old reader so I just picked up a innova 3040RS. It says it can't connect. I've found a few other threads with this issue so I'm going to see where those lead me.
