3.4 Valve Cover Gasket Replacement (part#s n pics)

[Hammit]

Thank you [MENTION=144406]Kyngfish[/MENTION] for the reply.

Now that you mention it, I did have the intake off about a month ago to swap coils and injectors, and I hand tightened all the VC bolts I could get to. I didn't notice any cracks at the time but I also wasn't looking for them.

As far as how it got cracked... I can only stipulate. I can tell you the bolt is not seized in its hole, hopefully it isn't snapped though.

I know the PO enjoyed tinkering with this thing, and can guess that they weren't the most mechanically inclined based on some of the witness marks I've noted and some of the cobbled together "mods" I've found. So my thought is that they saw the VCG starting to seep and cranked down on the bolts, felt or saw the crack, and immediately backed it off a touch before running the engine.... purely guesswork though.

I will try to upload a picture of the crack in a little bit, but thank you again for helping put my mind at ease.

 

[Outrider]

Thank you [MENTION=144406]Kyngfish[/MENTION] for the reply.

Now that you mention it, I did have the intake off about a month ago to swap coils and injectors, and I hand tightened all the VC bolts I could get to. I didn't notice any cracks at the time but I also wasn't looking for them.

As far as how it got cracked... I can only stipulate. I can tell you the bolt is not seized in its hole, hopefully it isn't snapped though.

I know the PO enjoyed tinkering with this thing, and can guess that they weren't the most mechanically inclined based on some of the witness marks I've noted and some of the cobbled together "mods" I've found. So my thought is that they saw the VCG starting to seep and cranked down on the bolts, felt or saw the crack, and immediately backed it off a touch before running the engine.... purely guesswork though.

I will try to upload a picture of the crack in a little bit, but thank you again for helping put my mind at ease.

If you order a replacement VC, I suggest you not get a Dorman one. I went though this nightmare before, bought a Dorman, and for a while, couldn't determine why my engine was smoking horribly, when it hadn't before. I had all kinds of brand new stuff up top, so I assumed that everything worked properly. Turns out the Dorman VC was somehow causing a buttload of oil to go into my intake. Not sure if it was a defective one, or if it is just a piss poor design. Thankfully, RockAuto gave me my money back on it. I bought a used one from someone on here, and that solved my problem.

I would suggest only going OEM on your VC. Either a new one (if it is possible to still find those), or a used one.

I cracked mine because I was re-installing it, didn't notice it wasn't sitting down flat, and started cranking on the bolts. It was hung up on something and I broke one of the rear mounting lugs. I learned my lesson from that.

 

[MTN86]

Just signed up to say “thank you” to Jon for this thread. Bought my ‘99 Limited about three years ago and am finally getting around to bringing it up to spec. Based on what I found during disassemble, someone attempted this job in the past and did a poor job. Thanks to this thread (and the Timmy the Toolman YouTube video), I was able to knock it out over a weekend, and likely could have done it faster had I been a bit more organized.

A few observations from a newbie to wrenching on these vehicles (I’d only previously done a radiator replacement and rebuilt the starter on my ‘99):

(1) Torque bars, ratchet set extensions and swivel socket adapters made this job much easier. Otherwise, a basic socket wrench set is sufficient to do this job.

(2) I used all OEM replacement parts from the dealer and received the “shop” discount. While I was at it, I put on a new set of plugs and wires. Grand total for all parts was about $315.00. I’m sure I could have saved a couple of bucks by going online, but the dealer was hassle free. Also, all parts can be overnighted to the dealer (depending on location) free of charge.

(3) The parts description in this thread is great, but I would also recommend ordering the PCV valve and replacing the entire unit while doing this job. It’s a couple of bucks for the part, and mine snapped while trying to remove and replace the grommet.

(4) Finally, I encountered two broken bolts during reassemble. The dealerships generally do not carry them, but your local Home Depot will have them. The only difference is you might go up a size in the bolt head.

Thanks again for all of the knowledge posted on here! I hope to add some helpful advice in the future as I do more work on my 4Runner.

Cheers,

Mike

 

[RowdyRobby]

Tube Seals...Which Way?

Hi. Just joined, this is a great thread...very helpful...and it is still alive!

I'm wondering how do the FelPro tube seals go in?
They look completely different than the stock seals and there's no tech sheet in the gasket set that I got. Been a while since I wrenched on cars, but FelPro used to be great...and typically if their part deviated from stock they'd have a sheet in there explaining it...not in mine. I didn't realize oem parts were so easy to get now, so I had already ordered these before I started.

So question is anyone know which way they go in?
Seems the flat side would match with the inside of the valve cover, but trying to pound it in with the open side, I can't seem to seat them...

After reading this thread I'm going to use the freeze trick for the other cover but for now I'm a bit confused...

I'm attaching a couple photos of what I have. Any suggestions appreciated.
Thanks - Rob

PS: props to Timmy The Toolman his videos are great! Made this and my timing belt replacement a walk in the park!

 

[Outrider]

Hi. Just joined, this is a great thread...very helpful...and it is still alive!

I'm wondering how do the FelPro tube seals go in?
They look completely different than the stock seals and there's no tech sheet in the gasket set that I got. Been a while since I wrenched on cars, but FelPro used to be great...and typically if their part deviated from stock they'd have a sheet in there explaining it...not in mine. I didn't realize oem parts were so easy to get now, so I had already ordered these before I started.

So question is anyone know which way they go in?
Seems the flat side would match with the inside of the valve cover, but trying to pound it in with the open side, I can't seem to seat them...

After reading this thread I'm going to use the freeze trick for the other cover but for now I'm a bit confused...

I'm attaching a couple photos of what I have. Any suggestions appreciated.
Thanks - Rob

PS: props to Timmy The Toolman his videos are great! Made this and my timing belt replacement a walk in the park!

Good and very valid questions. I ran into the same situation and problems when I did mine last year. Sorry, but I have forgotten some of the details of what I did, so my reply might not be very helpful.

I was scratching my head too, and installed mine with the opening of the seals downward. I used the freezer trick. I also lightly lubed the outside of the seals. Getting them in was very tricky. If I recall, I used a small wood block and a large wood dowel to tap them in, and kept tapping until I got them as flush as I could. They have to be tapped very carefully, or the outer edge will get deformed.

Because of those questions and difficulties, when I had other problems and had to do part of the job again (I cracked a valve cover during installation), when I got new spark plug seals again, I think I got OEM ones from the local stealership. Either that, or a different brand than Felpro, from Rockauto.

 

[RowdyRobby]

Outrider,
Thanks for the reply.
I went ahead and left them open side down too on driver side...
I'm looking at oem on pass side and peeled back the seal guts...the spring is up and they have a boot-like part on the bottom...if I install FelPro that way then it is like driving the seal in "normal", but leaves opening under inside of valve cover...what a pita...I already put the drive side back together, but seriously thinking about just getting oem and do it again while I still have all the upper end in pieces.

Can't figure out if these are supposed to keep crap out or oil in...seems oil in, and the plug boot keeps crap out...

Un freakn believable, I've not run into this b.s. on any other engine I've worked on using FelPro... :ybrick:

 

[MarkR85]

Professional Cost?

I wish I could wrench, but can't. Has anyone had the valve cover gasket replaced at dealer or independent mechanic? How much should I be expecting to pay for something like this? I know it's time consuming which is what scares me the most in terms of cost.

Also, how long can I drive with this leak without it becoming a bigger problem?

 

[blarblarjosh]

I wish I could wrench, but can't. Has anyone had the valve cover gasket replaced at dealer or independent mechanic? How much should I be expecting to pay for something like this? I know it's time consuming which is what scares me the most in terms of cost.

Also, how long can I drive with this leak without it becoming a bigger problem?

I called a shop for a quote before I decided to do it myself. Quote was around $250 for the labor as I had the parts already.

 

[DrankGotME]

Hello,

I am having a problem while looking at doing my valve cover gaskets. I have a sheared off bolt, I believe this is one of the bolts that holds the exhaust. Can anyone help me identify the bolt in this picture?

Imgur: The magic of the Internet

 

[bdjcl]

Hello,

I am having a problem while looking at doing my valve cover gaskets. I have a sheared off bolt, I believe this is one of the bolts that holds the exhaust. Can anyone help me identify the bolt in this picture?

Imgur: The magic of the Internet

I can't quite tell where you've circled. Is it behind the valve cover, or that bolt on top of the cam plug?

 

[spartacus]

I think it's the cam shafts rear seal plug is'held to the motor by a metal bracket with two bolts. Bolt extractor with left hand bit and then chase tap the hole. The location of the bolt on the motor to work on is going to be a challenge.

 

[ThePurposeIs]

Just signed up to say “thank you” to Jon for this thread. Bought my ‘99 Limited about three years ago and am finally getting around to bringing it up to spec. Based on what I found during disassemble, someone attempted this job in the past and did a poor job. Thanks to this thread (and the Timmy the Toolman YouTube video), I was able to knock it out over a weekend, and likely could have done it faster had I been a bit more organized.

Thanks again for all of the knowledge posted on here! I hope to add some helpful advice in the future as I do more work on my 4Runner.]

Could not agree more. This write-up helped me tackle this no problem and I feel more confident to dive deeper into the truck.

 

[BenBrowning]

Great write up, thank you! I am just finishing this up now! Have two wires and two hoses with no home so looking through posts until I can find some good pictures!

 

[Pj Benn]

Great write up, thank you! I am just finishing this up now! Have two wires and two hoses with no home so looking through posts until I can find some good pictures!

Post pics of them

 

[CLeeJ]

Great write up, and lots of tips. I did this a couple of weeks ago on my 2000 Limited, and this thread was really helpful.

- It has been said above, but the squarish plastic wire loom/cover near the top of the valve covers is a pain, and others wisely suggested taping this up before removing the valve cover. I ignored this tip, but wish I hadn't (after dropping several pieces of plastic and then fishing them out). Realizing my mistake, I wrapped these squarish plastic wire covers using some high temp cloth tape (search Amazon or other...). This worked really well, and I wish I had done this from the beginning. I highly recommend doing this before removing the valve covers. I'm sure there are other types of high temp tape that can be used for this, but the cloth tape worked well.
- I had a tough time removing the spark plug gaskets; mine were really really hard and not flexible. I destroyed the old ones getting them out, prying from the inside with a screw driver. I did freeze the new ones, and believe this helped in installing the new ones.
- Be careful with the throttle body. Once I had everything put back to together, I had a slightly high idle. Upon looking at the throttle body, I realized didn't have one the cables correctly seated and this was slightly pulling on the throttle. Seating it correctly fixed everything.
- I did not label all of my vacuum hoses, and was really afraid I would get confused on what goes where. I took pictures, but not enough. Once I had connected everything and was unsure if I had the routing of hoses correct, I looked up and saw there was a sticker on the inside of the hood showing the routing diagram of the vacuum hoses! duh... While this diagram was little confusing, it was really helpful in checking my hoses.

Hope this helps someone else.

Lee