3.4l transfer case difference between manny and auto?
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Tyler James Inc
Senior Member
Yep.
Tyler James Inc
Senior Member
Both the multi-mode from my '01 and the j-shift from the manual '99 were top shift.
I mated the '01 multi-mode case behind the '99 manual without one issue. I take that back- I did cut and weld the tcase shifter to clear the manual trans shifter.
I've read your original post a few times now, and still am not sure what you're even doing. I definitely don't know what "a auto J shifter case" is.
Are you doing a manual swap, and wanting to use the H-N-L push-button tcase with the manual trans?
If you give a little more info, we can better help you out.
If you're doing a manual swap, using the j-shift would probably be the easiest route. The 4wd rail switches are probably even the same between cases, and that's really all you need to activate the ADD front end.
I mated the '01 multi-mode case behind the '99 manual without one issue. I take that back- I did cut and weld the tcase shifter to clear the manual trans shifter.
I've read your original post a few times now, and still am not sure what you're even doing. I definitely don't know what "a auto J shifter case" is.
Are you doing a manual swap, and wanting to use the H-N-L push-button tcase with the manual trans?
If you give a little more info, we can better help you out.
If you're doing a manual swap, using the j-shift would probably be the easiest route. The 4wd rail switches are probably even the same between cases, and that's really all you need to activate the ADD front end.
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St Runner
Member
I think the OP has multi mode and the one from the Tacoma is a j-shift. Why not use the transfer case from your 4runner? They all bolt on the same. Biggest difference is the wiring and putting the original transfer case on will solve that. If you are going to change out the ecu that is a different story and you might be better off with the j-shift. Auto and manual j-shift t-cases are exactly the same. The only difference is the shift lever is rotated 180' so that it leans the other way. Not sure the OP should be following Tyler's advise on this, read his thread, he makes the really difficult seem way too easy!
Okay so to clarify. I did a 4wd swap on my 4runner so know the wiring and function of the transmission and ADD well. Some tacomas had a 3.4 with a manny tranny but the front diff did not have a ADD but is instead manual hubs. To have the ADD work correctly, you need 3 plugs on the transfer case thay corresponds to 4hi, N, and 4lo. If you have a ADD front diff, you have these plugs on your transfer case. This tacoma j shifter transfer case does not. My question was can i just swap a j shiftertransfer case off a automatic tran and put it on the manual?
Tyler James Inc
Senior Member
That's actually not quite correct. I have a j-shift case from a manual 4wd 4Runner- none had manual hubs; all have ADD- and it does not have 3 plugs.
Yep.
That cant be right. Theres two plug on the driver side ofbthe transfer case That is N and 4lo. One plug of the passenger side that is 4hi. They activate a relay that activates a the vacuum switches. I spent countless nights reading diagrams. Are you sure? Ill try to take pics when i get home.
phattyduck
Elite Member
YES! Then just put the manual trans shift lever on there and it'll clear the MT shifter.
The only one that doesn't work quite this way is the 4-cylinder MT Tacomas have a front-shift transfer case (I think?). It'll be obvious with a visual inspection what will or won't work in that case.
-Charlie
St Runner
Member
Just to clear up the difference between a manual and auto j-shift lever. if you have one you have the other. The first pic is my auto shift still as it was after the trans swap, lever is on the left. Pull back the boot and take out the snap ring. pull the 4 bolts and lift the lever out. As you can see the shift paddle is symmetrical and there are two slots for the case pin but only one pin. Spin the lever 180 and reverse the procedure. Careful with the spring in the back, its better to take some pics so you know how it goes. Final pic is the case set up for a manual, same case same parts.
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Tyler James Inc
Senior Member
Very sure-
One indicates 4WD, the other indicates L4. You only need the 4WD SW for your ADD to work, and the L4 is basically just for rigs with a locker- to only allow the locker function in low range [emoji1360]
The cool part about push-button cases, is you can un-plug the detection SW, and shift into L4 without having the ADD engage. Then you can have L2 whenever you want, and use the push-button to activate your ADD. Guys get crazy with wiring switches and relays to interrupt ADD circuits and everything, but that's all unnecessary. Of course, this is just my opinion [emoji6]
Tyler James Inc
Senior Member
2 things here-
1- You actually don't even have to pull any bolts. Pull boot, pull snap ring, pull stick, flip 180*, install stick, install snap ring, install boot, enjoi.
2- By flipping the stick, it really throws it way off. At least, it did in my rig.
Mine after the flip-
As you can see, 1- the bolts haven't been touched, and 2- the stick is way off, and no way would it line up in the boot right.
After I chopped it-
You have a 99-00 4runner. The wiring is slightly different. I have a 97 and I got a 96 wiring schematics book. But I think you are right. That lone plug is 4wd activation. But also got the locker but you're right I don't need it be in 4lo to activate.
4wd swap thread
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St Runner
Member
The only reason I suggested to remove the 4 bolts is the spring on the inside is very difficult to get back into the proper position on the lever. it was hard to do with both hands in the light, even harder to do blind with just the lever end. Good thing is there is always more than one way to do things. I always seem to end up doing things the hard way
phattyduck
Elite Member
Looks like the manual trans transfer case is missing the neutral indicator switch and low switch... the switches can probably just be swapped in for the blanking plugs if needed.
On a manual trans:
- Neutral switch isn't needed (as a warning when the trans is in park)
- Low switch isn't needed (to change the shift patterns on the auto trans)
Also note that the shift lever used with a manual transmission goes up and to the right, not up and to the left. It is 90* off, not 180* off, which is why there was an issue with the shift boot when rotating it 180*.
-Charlie
On a manual trans:
- Neutral switch isn't needed (as a warning when the trans is in park)
- Low switch isn't needed (to change the shift patterns on the auto trans)
Also note that the shift lever used with a manual transmission goes up and to the right, not up and to the left. It is 90* off, not 180* off, which is why there was an issue with the shift boot when rotating it 180*.
-Charlie
Tyler James Inc
Senior Member
This is getting too confusing for me.
The diagram you posted still only shows two switches.
The stick can't be turned 90*, 180* is the only option.
Wish I could help more, but sounds like there are plenty of guys that know more about it than I, so I'll bow out.
The diagram you posted still only shows two switches.
The stick can't be turned 90*, 180* is the only option.
Wish I could help more, but sounds like there are plenty of guys that know more about it than I, so I'll bow out.
phattyduck
Elite Member
The point is the TC shifter is different on the MT trucks... Not just installed 180* out.
-Charlie
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