3.5" DuroBumps with LC shocks?

[jross20]

All right guys so this Friday I'll be putting in the oem Land cruiser shocks. One thing that I really been wanting to do is get shorter bump stops because the current 5" durobumps are just too tall to me.

Basically most times when I go over a bump the actual comes in the contact with them since there is maybe only 2" of space... Haha. (Using 890 coils)

Anyway, does anybody know if the 3.5 inch duro bumps are tall enough to protect the Land cruiser shocks?

 

[4runnerfiend]

All right guys so this Friday I'll be putting in the oem Land cruiser shocks. One thing that I really been wanting to do is get shorter bump stops because the current 5" durobumps are just too tall to me.

Basically most times when I go over a bump the actual comes in the contact with them since there is maybe only 2" of space... Haha. (Using 890 coils)

Anyway, does anybody know if the 3.5 inch duro bumps are tall enough to protect the Land cruiser shocks?

They are intended to come into contact before a normal bumpstop. they are progressive so the first part of contact compresses easier and then gets firmer as they compress.

Sounds like they are working as they are supposed to.
I think a lot of people thing they are preventing the suspension from fully compressing but that is not the case. Firm springs or shocks that are too short are the ones that will prevent this.

here are some pics of the 5.25's about as compressed as I could get mine. really stuff the 285's

 

[jross20]

They are intended to come into contact before a normal bumpstop. they are progressive so the first part of contact compresses easier and then gets firmer as they compress.

Sounds like they are working as they are supposed to.
I think a lot of people thing they are preventing the suspension from fully compressing but that is not the case. Firm springs or shocks that are too short are the ones that will prevent this.

here are some pics of the 5.25's about as compressed as I could get mine. really stuff the 285's

Oh don't get me wrong, they do compress and don't limit the compression... But, if I go over some kind of a quick bump or something the actual will contact the bumps and it's very jarring. If I simply drive over some crazy terrain it will definitely let the axle revel up gently.

 

[4runnerfiend]

Oh don't get me wrong, they do compress and don't limit the compression... But, if I go over some kind of a quick bump or something the actual will contact the bumps and it's very jarring. If I simply drive over some crazy terrain it will definitely let the axle revel up gently.

Interesting I've had the exact opposite experience. I felt that they help smooth out the suspension cycle.

Either way I'd assume that the 3.5's are not long enough as they will compress as the longer ones do and will allow the shock to bottom out. They will slow the suspension compression down but will not stop it before the shock bottoms out.

I'd as the plastics guy the question. He probably knows what shock compression length they are designed for.
Once upon a time I asked about my 4th gen Bilsteins that I was running in the rear and he said the 5.25" ones were specifically designed for that shock length. The LC shocks are longer from what I remember.

 

[jross20]

Interesting I've had the exact opposite experience. I felt that they help smooth out the suspension cycle.

Either way I'd assume that the 3.5's are not long enough as they will compress as the longer ones do and will allow the shock to bottom out. They will slow the suspension compression down but will not stop it before the shock bottoms out.

I'd as the plastics guy the question. He probably knows what shock compression length they are designed for.
Once upon a time I asked about my 4th gen Bilsteins that I was running in the rear and he said the 5.25" ones were specifically designed for that shock length. The LC shocks are longer from what I remember.

Interesting... I wonder if I gave something else causing the "impact"... As far as I can tell she can fully flex up and down. Maybe it really just is the king's... I guess we shall see after the swap tomorrow... See originally I thought the kings were too firm...then I wondered if it was the bumps...but...maybe it is the king's... F me this is so annoying...haha.

The front is pretty much fine, no jarring impacts like the back.

Well at least my current 5" bumps will protect the LC shocks...

 

[4runnerfiend]

Interesting... I wonder if I gave something else causing the "impact"... As far as I can tell she can fully flex up and down. Maybe it really just is the king's... I guess we shall see after the swap tomorrow... See originally I thought the kings were too firm...then I wondered if it was the bumps...but...maybe it is the king's... F me this is so annoying...haha.

The front is pretty much fine, no jarring impacts like the back.

Well at least my current 5" bumps will protect the LC shocks...

Are you running longer sway bar end links? I had an issue where I was running the 2nd gen links and they were making contact with my rear lower control arms. that was giving me harsh clunk.

Yeah I guess could be the shocks if they are old.. something internal? IDK much about that.

 

[jross20]

Are you running longer sway bar end links? I had an issue where I was running the 2nd gen links and they were making contact with my rear lower control arms. that was giving me harsh clunk.

Yeah I guess could be the shocks if they are old.. something internal? IDK much about that.

Oh shit I have 2nd gen links yeah! How did you figure that out? We're the links damaged looking?

And the king's are only 11 months old.

 

[4runnerfiend]

Oh shit I have 2nd gen links yeah! How did you figure that out? We're the links damaged looking?

And the king's are only 11 months old.

The 2nd gen links are super common for us 3rd gen guys with lifted rigs.
I notice damage/scraping on my lower control arms after I changed them out to the Rokmen ones... and they were really close to them. I think less than an inch

I doubt the Kings are the issue.

Here is that pic of the Durobumps not flexing as you asked for.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/69731669@N03/51654933246/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_1944"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51654933246_64112f968b_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_1944"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

 

[jross20]

The 2nd gen links are super common for us 3rd gen guys with lifted rigs.
I notice damage/scraping on my lower control arms after I changed them out to the Rokmen ones... and they were really close to them. I think less than an inch

I doubt the Kings are the issue.

Here is that pic of the Durobumps not flexing as you asked for.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/69731669@N03/51654933246/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_1944"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51654933246_64112f968b_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_1944"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

I have the rokmen arms too, I'll have to check it all out here shortly and see what is going on.

I still think the kings are too stiff... I've had a few others comment on that and I guess trying out the LC shocks may or may not confirm that. Here we go... Haha

 

[jross20]

F***

Confirmed, the rokmen arms have slight damage that matches the shape of the links.

Strange enough the links are only scratched a little bit, I guess they're pretty tough

So which ones do I need to replace them with?

 

[4runnerfiend]

F***

Confirmed, the rokmen arms have slight damage that matches the shape of the links.

Strange enough the links are only scratched a little bit, I guess they're pretty tough

So which ones do I need to replace them with?

I ran with no sway bar for years because of this and to have maximum down travel.
I've been doing alot more road driving so put the sway bar back on and used the 3rd gen front links. they are slightly shorter. I've not had any problems with them. still flexes really good. I put the 2nd gens on the front.

Basically swapped front to back and backs to front.

 

[jross20]

So the 3rd gen front links are longer than the 2nd gen rears but longer than 3rd gen stock rear links?

 

[4runnerfiend]

So the 3rd gen front links are longer than the 2nd gen rears but longer than 3rd gen stock rear links?

2nd gen are the longest.
3rd gen fronts next
Stock 3rd rears are shorter than all.

I'm running 3rd gen front's on the rear. and 2nd gen rears on the front.

 

[jross20]

Okay so I need to get some 3rd gen fonts then! Next quest...

 

[Romeo1]

Don’t fight it, just get the Overland custom designs ones. They are super beefy piece. I have thrashed my rig an unbelievable amount and they have yet to cause any issues. I’ve ran the poor thing so hard that even double nutted, one side still worked loose and it required Loctite AND double nut to keep snug……yeah buddy!

I ran without a sway bar for about five minutes, yeah that was a bit sketchy. Probably OK for a crawler, but for any high speed driving through the whoops, it felt like it was going to do a barrel roll.

I have no affiliation with Overland custom designs whatsoever, they just provide a really nice solution to a problem for me. After I snapped a third GEN link, that was plenty for me to find and improved solution.

I wish someone made a good Bolt on hydraulic Jounce bumper/ stop for us but those don’t seem to exist. If you are bouncing off the end of the travel even with the Duro bump regularly, (which I do, but it’s never been a problem.) you may have to consider either going up in spring rate, or adding a taller ride/ taller spring height to accommodate travel.

I am a bit in awe at some of the stupid hard hits I’ve taken….so much so that I honestly thought I was going to break the 4runner and in half more than once…… good suspension, Duro bumps, and overland custom design swaybar links is a sweet sweet combo.

 

[t4r-4-mtb]

Don’t fight it, just get the Overland custom designs ones. They are super beefy piece. I have thrashed my rig an unbelievable amount and they have yet to cause any issues. I’ve ran the poor thing so hard that even double nutted, one side still worked loose and it required Loctite AND double nut to keep snug……yeah buddy!

I ran without a sway bar for about five minutes, yeah that was a bit sketchy. Probably OK for a crawler, but for any high speed driving through the whoops, it felt like it was going to do a barrel roll.

I have no affiliation with Overland custom designs whatsoever, they just provide a really nice solution to a problem for me. After I snapped a third GEN link, that was plenty for me to find and improved solution.

I wish someone made a good Bolt on hydraulic Jounce bumper/ stop for us but those don’t seem to exist. If you are bouncing off the end of the travel even with the Duro bump regularly, (which I do, but it’s never been a problem.) you may have to consider either going up in spring rate, or adding a taller ride/ taller spring height to accommodate travel.

I am a bit in awe at some of the stupid hard hits I’ve taken….so much so that I honestly thought I was going to break the 4runner and in half more than once…… good suspension, Duro bumps, and overland custom design swaybar links is a sweet sweet combo.

I'm running without links at all, front and rear. Sway bar has been completely removed in the front, and in the rear it's there but not connected. No issues. Feels GREAT when wheeling. When driving I get a little bit of body roll making u-turns or cornering but nothing that feels sketchy at all.

 

[phattyduck]

I'm running without links at all, front and rear. Sway bar has been completely removed in the front, and in the rear it's there but not connected. No issues. Feels GREAT when wheeling. When driving I get a little bit of body roll making u-turns or cornering but nothing that feels sketchy at all.

Reconnect that rear. It'll balance out the front and rear flex and reduce the side-to-side bobble off road. Without the rear bar in place, the rear roll rate is much lower than the spring rate.

See some measurements with otherwise stock suspension here: Toyota 4Runner Handling Modifications Addco Sway Roll Bars

I run the Addco bars F+R on the street and disconnect the front offroad (I don't actually get off road much these days!).

-Charlie

 

[jross20]

Going to grab some cheap front links today if I can.

So, in case anyone is curious about the LC shocks. They are okay, not as jarring as the kings...but...oddly firm in different ways. Still too firm overall.

Spoke with king Friday and I'll be shipping the rears in for the one time free revalve. The rep that I spoke with actually said that he's seen a lot of revalve requests for 3rd gens for being too stiff. So I guess I'm not alone..