3" lift in rear. Wise to buy panhard and brake extensions?

masphx

New member
My ICON lift is now installed on my rig. She sits 22" front and 23" rear. These are hub to fender measurements. Gained 2" front and around 3" rear. Rear might seddle after time (OME 890 spings).

Would it be wise to add an adjustable pan hard, rear e-brake and brake line extensions?

 
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I didn't and mine has been fine with no problems. I have the same set up too. You need to crank up the front coilovers a little bit. I think they come pre set at only 2 inches if I remember correctly.
 
If you're anal retentive like me, you'll want to get one. I can't stand how the truck sits crooked when viewing it from behind.

You can piece a well built one together for about ~$90 and then just find a friend to weld it together for you. Let me know if you need shopping list!

Edit: Just saw you're local to me. I have a bud that can weld yours and the metal shop is right downtown. Super easy.
 
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I didn't and mine has been fine with no problems. I have the same set up too. You need to crank up the front coilovers a little bit. I think they come pre set at only 2 inches if I remember correctly.

Actually I like the 2" lift in the front. I hope the rear settle a little bit more. Might add .25 inch though as I still have some front skids to add. After a coilover ajustment alignment is needed correct?
 
Actually I like the 2" lift in the front. I hope the rear settle a little bit more. Might add .25 inch though as I still have some front skids to add. After a coilover ajustment alignment is needed correct?

For a 1/4 inch? Nah, you'll be fine if your baseline is decent. You already have one done at this ride height?
 
If you're anal retentive like me, you'll want to get one. I can't stand how the truck sits crooked when viewing it from behind.

You can piece a well built one together for about ~$90 and then just find a friend to weld it together for you. Let me know if you need shopping list!

Edit: Just saw you're local to me. I have a bud that can weld yours and the metal shop is right downtown. Super easy.

Is this what causes the driver's side to sit lower than the passenger side? My rig suffers from this. The previous owner is the one that installed the lift, I bought it this way and the driver's side lean has been bugging me. It's especially noticeable from the rear, some folks told me it was because the gas tank sits more on the driver's side and that's the cause of the lean. More noticeable when the tank is full. I call bull on that one.
 
[MENTION=118836]SpidermanGeek[/MENTION] the driver's side is weighed down from the gas tank and the driver. When I installed my Tundra Coils, the driver side was a little harder to get in because it was longer. Not sure what lift your po installed but maybe he installed them on the wrong side.
 
If you're anal retentive like me, you'll want to get one. I can't stand how the truck sits crooked when viewing it from behind.

You can piece a well built one together for about ~$90 and then just find a friend to weld it together for you. Let me know if you need shopping list!

Edit: Just saw you're local to me. I have a bud that can weld yours and the metal shop is right downtown. Super easy.

Can I have that shopping list please?
 
Is this what causes the driver's side to sit lower than the passenger side? My rig suffers from this. The previous owner is the one that installed the lift, I bought it this way and the driver's side lean has been bugging me. It's especially noticeable from the rear, some folks told me it was because the gas tank sits more on the driver's side and that's the cause of the lean. More noticeable when the tank is full. I call bull on that one.

I've had two lifted 4runners. Without adjustable panhard bars, they've both had a pronounced driver's side lean.

Mycocobean could also be right tho, the PO could have installed the springs on the wrong side. I'd try the panhard bar first though and then if that doesn't fix it, pull the springs, measure, and then install the longer one on the driver's side.
 
First off, my apologies to [MENTION=71420]masphx[/MENTION] , I don't mean to highjack the OP's thread, but hopefully this helps you out as well.

As far as I've been told by my T4R's PO, this is what was installed.

Old Man Emu Coil Springs (+ Coil Spring Spacer up Front)
Rear Differential Drop
Tokico Trekmaster Shocks
25mm (1") Hubcentric Wheel Spacers
285/75R16 BF Goodrich Mud-Terrain tires
MOOG Toyota Tundra Lower Ball Joints & Outer Tie-Rod Ends

Sway Bars have been removed, front and rear

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10920273_10155183473345094_3856006317082539179_o.jpg


10943702_10155183473185094_1991859002298348150_o.jpg


The front end shot doesn't look that bad, but the rear lean is definitely more noticeable.
 

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How is the angle on the pan hard bar in relation to your axle ? i found that rear axle was off center after i lifted my truck by about a 1/4+ inch .this could be felt when driving on roads with a lot of crown. it was like the rear end was searching or giving busy side to side feedback at the wheel .ended up going with toytec's drop bracket and it was a noticeable difference on how the truck handled .
 
I would just install the adjustable ps hard bar Steve makes them they work and you can tell and big difference even with a small lift.
 
If you can drill two holes in a piece of flat stock you can make your own brake cable relocation bracket.

Panhard bar relocation brackets keep the driveshaft out of the gas tank when the suspension flexes, which is what happens with adjustable panhard bars. If you don't wheel it that's not an issue.
 
If you have driver side lean why not install a OME 10mm or 5mm coil spacer ? Or re adjust the front coilovers? Since I don't have coilovers, I installed a 10mm ome rear coil spacer on the driver side.
 
Well just to give you an idea .i think the more parallel it is with your axle the more it will work as intended
 

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