33s or 35s for Colorado???

[Dan.3]

Currently I have a 99 limited, stock suspension with 32s. Im from the Midwest, and planning on wheeling/overlanding in CO next summer and for years to come. Planning my lift based on what tires I run.

Question is what or how many trails can I wheel on that is doable with 35s compared to 33s? Specifically, what trails would I need to have 35s for to narrow it down.

 

[BrianSD_42]

According to peer reviewed science, 37s are the minimum tire size to do any offroading in the state of Colorado.

 

[Dan.3]

According to peer reviewed science, 37s are the minimum tire size to do any offroading in the state of Colorado.

Thats the impression I get over on pirate. I know, newb question. But instead of doing a trial and error on the trails, Im hoping to get a general consensus. Its probably inevitable, but hoping to avoid the "should have got 35s" or as stupid as this sounds, "I guess I really didnt need 35s". Given that I am driving from Chicago, I would like to save wear and tare on the suspension and drive train and avoid the hassle of stuffing 35s on to my 3rd gen.

Im aware some trail get hardcore. Aside from those, is 33 good enough or is 33 the new 31?

To rephrase my question, how many more trail options, if any, are available with 35s compared to 33s?

 

[BrianSD_42]

If we were talking CA I would tell you 33s no problem. You can do A LOT with 33s. And if I were moving to the beautiful state of CO I would keep my 33s until I decided for myself that it was time for the upgrade, and it is a major upgrade. There are lot of build threads on this site and trip reports from CO. I suggest you check out some of them and decide for yourself.

 

[Team_Jake]

There’s so much more to it than just tire size. Are you locked? Rear? Front? Are you running skids? Sliders? What’s your approach angle like? High clearance bumpers? No bumpers? How much weight are you carrying? How hard do you want to wheel? How much are you willing to abuse your rig?

If you really want 35s, I say go for it. But personally I’d invest in other things first if I was worried about a challenging trail. I just think that an experienced wheeler running 33s can do so much more than an average guy running 37s.

 

[Dan.3]

If we were talking CA I would tell you 33s no problem. You can do A LOT with 33s. And if I were moving to the beautiful state of CO I would keep my 33s until I decided for myself that it was time for the upgrade, and it is a major upgrade. There are lot of build threads on this site and trip reports from CO. I suggest you check out some of them and decide for yourself.

I agree. If I had 33, I would keep them as well and then go from there. But since I am in the market for new tires, Id like to buy a set just once and do the suspension just once. I have been through the build threads with people on 35s. Seems to be a personal preference on how major of an upgrade you want it to be with trimming and tubbing. In my case, Im also considering a SAS with a 60 series axle and radius arms since I think it would be more reliable, obviously stronger, and potentially more road worthy than IFS with 35s. Or get a 100 series and put on 35s. But do I need to do a sas or trade up?? Its an internal struggle. If im going to spend the money, Id like to just do it once and not have it be inadequate or overkill.

 

[Dan.3]

There’s so much more to it than just tire size. Are you locked? Rear? Front? Are you running skids? Sliders? What’s your approach angle like? High clearance bumpers? No bumpers? How much weight are you carrying? How hard do you want to wheel? How much are you willing to abuse your rig?

If you really want 35s, I say go for it. But personally I’d invest in other things first if I was worried about a challenging trail. I just think that an experienced wheeler running 33s can do so much more than an average guy running 37s.

If you must know, locked rear, stock bumpers (for now), no skids, debating on what sliders to buy (since I think that would be the cheaper route than building). No plans for a dual case or lefty. 3-5 passengers with possibly camping gear. Cooler, canvas tent, etc. No plans to lock the front. If i need to lock the front, Ill heavily consider investing in a SAS first.

I agree that an experience wheeler can do much more than an average guy running 37s. Im fairly experience with trails and rocks in the midwest. I have seen a couple guys one on 255/85s and another on 32s follow a group that runs 36/37s. It comes down to picking the right lines and how much harder do you want to abuse your truck (mechanical and body). Given that it will have to get me back to the midwest, I prefer to abuse my truck as little as possible. Im not one to be heavy on the gas pedal.

 

[JayRolla]

If you must know, locked rear, stock bumpers (for now), no skids, debating on what sliders to buy (since I think that would be the cheaper route than building). No plans for a dual case or lefty. 3-5 passengers with possibly camping gear. Cooler, canvas tent, etc. No plans to lock the front. If i need to lock the front, Ill heavily consider investing in a SAS first.

I agree that an experience wheeler can do much more than an average guy running 37s. Im fairly experience with trails and rocks in the midwest. I have seen a couple guys one on 255/85s and another on 32s follow a group that runs 36/37s. It comes down to picking the right lines and how much harder do you want to abuse your truck (mechanical and body). Given that it will have to get me back to the midwest, I prefer to abuse my truck as little as possible. Im not one to be heavy on the gas pedal.

I run most trails in CO with 33s. Brother runs 35s on his 4th gen and it helps but I can out wheel him due to skills and mostly because I have bigger balls. 33s are so much easier to clear also. He rubs the entire trail where I glide.

 

[Dan.3]

I run most trails in CO with 33s. Brother runs 35s on his 4th gen and it helps but I can out wheel him due to skills and mostly because I have bigger balls. 33s are so much easier to clear also. He rubs the entire trail where I glide.

Thank you. Appreciate the info.

 

[Bijan]

I have wheeled ALL over Colorado & Moab with 33" tires + 3" lift + armor and have been fine.

I have been on a couple of the most extreme trails most IFS trucks wouldn't want to go on. (Spring Creek, Chinaman Gulch, Red Elephant)

35s will greatly diminish your gas mileage

https://www.flickr.com/photos/159876433@N06/

 

[Twan]

I'm running 32s currently with 3" of lift and I haven't had too many problems. I do have sliders, full set of Savage skids, LCAM skids, rear locker, and I just added SPC UCAs, a 1" body lift, and 4xInnovations front bumper. I still plan on going with 33s on my next set of tires, but I'm also ok with some dragging and scraping over some obstacles.

Keep in mind that big tires combined with stock gearing, a heavy load, and the elevation up here will make your truck feel sloooooooooow.

 

[thezentree]

Came to echo what [MENTION=99840]Twan[/MENTION] said about gearing. I'd think a set of 33s on 4.88s would do you better than 35s on 4.10s.

But I've never wheeled in CO before so what do I know. :typing:

 

[rkntoy]

Like others have said, the trails where you "have" to have 35s are limited in number. Armor is very important.

That said, 35s tend to make things easier. That said, 37s make things even easier. But it all depends on use and how much time you spend offroad. The work involved to go up tire sizes is not linear but exponential. And if you are driving from IL to CO going up tire sizes will make it slightly less fun on the freeway.

 

[Dan.3]

Thanks for the info and adice. My 3rd gen has already been out to Breck in the winter. Im fully aware of what it feels like at high alt. Especially going heading up to the ike tunnel 2 passengers and 500lbs pounds in the back on my 265s. Whats another 3000ft?? Just kidding, dont answer that.

I have seen Addicteds first 3rd gen build where he was a big advocate for 5.29s which IIRC, was with 33s initially. I have thought about 4.88s but once at highway speed, 33s should net some decent fuel economy with the 4.30 gearing.

 

[TCMach]

Like others have said, the trails where you "have" to have 35s are limited in number. Armor is very important.

That said, 35s tend to make things easier. That said, 37s make things even easier. But it all depends on use and how much time you spend offroad. The work involved to go up tire sizes is not linear but exponential. And if you are driving from IL to CO going up tire sizes will make it slightly less fun on the freeway.

Agreed. 37s make things easier. That being said you can (and I and many others have) do almost every mainstream trail in Colorado on 33s. There really isn't a trail that running 37s has opened up to me besides maybe Holy Cross and that would still be a workout this year. Maybe not winching up Grizzly Lake.

The real kicker is armor in my opinion. I've ran Chinaman Gulch multiple times on 33s with no issues but without armor I would have been real nervous.

 

[p nut]

I would go out to CO as-is. Lots of trails you can run on 32's. Then decide whether you need to go 33 or 35, or upsize at all.

I'd do sliders and skids before going 33(+), personally.

 

[repo]

I feel fine in CO with 265/75/16, a 2.5" lift, and an air compressor. But I'm not doing any rock crawling or anything. When they wear out I'll probably get 285s though and taller rear springs. But then you have to worry about where to put a 285 spare? Won't fit underneath, don't have room inside and I don't wont any weight on the roof so the only option is a swingout bumper. A front bumper, winch and sliders is higher priority than 285s for me.

 

[Atomic6]

How about the happy medium... I'm running 34s. 285/75/17 more specifically.

Having moved from Chicago to Denver, I agree with what others have said though, run it as-is and build it as you get more comfortable with the trails in Colorado. Armor > tire size and driver experience > tire size. Hell, I've seen a Rav4 on stock size tires do some crazier things than some people on 35s.

 

[Acorn22]

I live in Crested Butte which sits up at 9000 feet, 4.10 gearing on 265s with NO extra weight does start to feel kinda sluggish at times... However, paired with my 3.5" lift, my 4runner continues to impress me at what it is able to do on the trail. I have never scraped anything before besides one section of Pearl Pass on the Aspen side.

It is all about being able to choose the right lines, and if you can do that then you will be fine wheeling 90% of the trails here with 33s and proper clearance, but power does start to lack especially above 10k. 35s can cause a lot of headache with modifying the body to make them fit, and you will never get the same articulation (on stock IFS) as you would with a smaller tire. Also gotta think about things breaking out on the trail and with all the crazy weather Colorado can throw at you in an afternoon, I definitely would not wanna be stuck on the side of a trail at 11,000 feet because I broke a CV axle due to heavy ass 35s

 

[Dan.3]

I definitely would not wanna be stuck on the side of a trail at 11,000 feet because I broke a CV axle due to heavy ass 35s

Couldnt agree more.

Currently my stock suspension is completely shot. Rear shocks have busted at the top mount , springs are sagging, back end bounces all over the place and the front end needs all new bushings, tre, and struts.

So if I run 33s, which is probably the route im going, Ill over haul the suspension.

If it was suggested the I would be able to run a hell of A LOT more trails with 35s, then I would throw an 60 series axle with a radius set up under and call it a day.

IMO, its not worth it to run 35s on IFS for wheeling. I know FROR is doing it on 37s which is impressive. But obviously, that is custom and for the money it would cost to replicate his set up, I rather put a solid axle under it. 9.5R&P, longs, and you are solid.