Kanoe
New member
Did no one reply to your question 3bears? I've not noticed any sag with my 906's. They are nearing 100,000 km and about 7 years. Not a concern IMO.
3rd Gen 4Runner Lift Information and FAQ's
- Thread starter steezemcqueen
- Start date
Did no one reply to your question 3bears? I've not noticed any sag with my 906's. They are nearing 100,000 km and about 7 years. Not a concern IMO.
Endlessblockades
Senior Member
Same here - my friend has had 906s for a few years and still has a inch+ of rear rake unladen with 5100/881s up front. I have the same set up. The good thing is, rear spring sets are relatively inexpensive and the stiffer options will work with 5100s no problem if he decides he needs more rear support later.
thanks
I did get some answers and have done lots of reading. Im gonna go with the Tundra LC coil route with bilies upfront and tokico in the back. Adjustable panhard, Airbags as well, and a 1 inch diff drop to keep things not to out of line. Sway bar and brake line relocate brackets, different sway bar end links, yet still stay under 3 inches, like 2.5...my original goal was 2 inch
Gonna order parts but wont get around to putting on for a while. Part of that is lead time on parts and other family stuff to do too.
Gonna replace upper control arm bushings and upper ball joints and replace rear trailing arm bushings too at the time, dont need yet, but LBJs and lower control arm were all done last year and im at 240k . Gonna stay stock wiith all of those.
Found out about a 4x4 club in the area... gonna go to next meeting I hope, .so hopefully I will be able to start learning trails around here . Sure miss all my back roads of Oregon and Washington
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well had to change my mind....billies on back order till at least august some time...so not sure what I will do.... so much for those plans
guess ill just keep it simple
so IM still searching for best route
not to much lift...just want to be able to take the bumper and winch weight and still ride nice...oh and fit my 265/75/16s without rubbing
guess ill just keep it simple
so IM still searching for best route
not to much lift...just want to be able to take the bumper and winch weight and still ride nice...oh and fit my 265/75/16s without rubbing
Devbot
New member
Well turns out I'm pulling the trigger sooner than expected. I'm thinking OME 883 coils in front with the slightly softer 890 coils in the rear (on Bilstein 5100s) - the reason being I have a heavy lip to put on currently but no extra weight in the back. I want a tire carrier eventually, but until I snag one I see no reason to run the stiffer set, and figured I could buy them when need be.
Does this sound like a decent choice - will the difference is stiffness be noticeable at all, or should I suck it up and run the heavier coils now? (going to 3in, my plan/reason for lifting is light offroading/trail driving/exploring, but will also be my DD. To boot I have two blown rear shocks, one popping/knuckling in the front, and zero good bushings:lookout
Another question I just had is; will the front diff be the only one needing dropped? All this time I was under the impersonation it was front+rear, but It would seem not, and I just wanted firm confirmation
Does this sound like a decent choice - will the difference is stiffness be noticeable at all, or should I suck it up and run the heavier coils now? (going to 3in, my plan/reason for lifting is light offroading/trail driving/exploring, but will also be my DD. To boot I have two blown rear shocks, one popping/knuckling in the front, and zero good bushings:lookout
Another question I just had is; will the front diff be the only one needing dropped? All this time I was under the impersonation it was front+rear, but It would seem not, and I just wanted firm confirmation
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Kanoe
New member
Your rear diff is in the middle of the rear axle. The lift springs are above the rear axle. The rear diff is not affected except for driveshaft angle slightly.
Pardon me if I have misinterpreted your question.
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Well turns out I'm pulling the trigger sooner than expected. I'm thinking OME 883 coils in front with the slightly softer 890 coils in the rear (on Bilstein 5100s) - the reason being I have a heavy lip to put on currently but no extra weight in the back. I want a tire carrier eventually, but until I snag one I see no reason to run the stiffer set, and figured I could buy them when need be.
Does this sound like a decent choice - will the difference is stiffness be noticeable at all, or should I suck it up and run the heavier coils now? (going to 3in, my plan/reason for lifting is light offroading/trail driving/exploring, but will also be my DD. To boot I have two blown rear shocks, one popping/knuckling in the front, and zero good bushings:lookout
Another question I just had is; will the front diff be the only one needing dropped? All this time I was under the impersonation it was front+rear, but It would seem not, and I just wanted firm confirmation
from everything I have read it is only the front that needs to be dropped when you get above 2.5 inches and the reason is for keeping things in line with the cv axels. Some will not drop and deal with stretched cv boots and minor vibration and shorter cv life.
The rear diff is all kind of fixed in place, so dont have that issue with that axel alignment...however with the rear diff, when you start lifting over that magic 2.5 you need to change the panhard rod...either adjustable or brackets as it is a fixed unit and will pull the rear diff off center., I think to the pass side. Being off center might lead to vibration issues in the driveshaft also some will plug the zerk on the driveshaft to keep from hitting on the shaft when they start gettting up high.
Im no expert...but like I said up front..I am reading alot as I need to do a lift too and looking at 2.5 to 3 inches
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Devbot
New member
Nope, that's perfect, thanks mate
Yes, I read that and will be ordering a correction kit with it, thank you! I'm just double checking before submitting my order; last thing I want is to realize I'm missing something during installation, or worse
96RedRunner
Senior Member
When I was building my Runner I didn't want to buy rear springs twice.
I put 120 lb's of weight plates between wheel wells at seat back until I got rear bumper built to smooth out ride.
Bags of sand, gravel, a lot of things with a later use will do the job.
96RedRunner
Senior Member
[MENTION=549924]Devbot[/MENTION], regarding the panhard bar. Go with the EimKeith panhard correction kit.
Money well spent, you use the bar you have, keeps factory geometry, centers axle. Used them on both of my Runners.
Money well spent, you use the bar you have, keeps factory geometry, centers axle. Used them on both of my Runners.
4Runner4Leon
Senior Member
It's a weld-on kit.
Devbot
New member
I was also considering this, but I'm just not sure when I'll be able to necessarily afford one. Lotta money to drop on a bumper and I have some other things to tackle first (like wheels and other susp components). I'll keep this in mind though, thanks
EDIT: Also worried about weight shifting around, forgot to mention
Will take a peek! Any particular reason to choose it over SRQ's? I'm only asking because that's who I'm buying the kit from, and they offer to add the PCK with the order
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96RedRunner
Senior Member
[MENTION=549924]Devbot[/MENTION], Didn't know SRQ was selling them, don't know what they look like.
Eimkeith's PCK works, like design, easy to weld on, good guy to deal with.
I tend to support folks that do the concept to finished product like he has.
Same with Plasticsguy and his durabumps.
Eimkeith's PCK works, like design, easy to weld on, good guy to deal with.
I tend to support folks that do the concept to finished product like he has.
Same with Plasticsguy and his durabumps.
Devbot
New member
Scratch that - I went to the page to snag the image and saw they're actually Eimkeith's! Funny
Edit: Does OME make any "medium" front coils, that also provide 2.5-3in - like something between the 881 and 883? Another concern I had is that my steel bumper might not warrant a real heavy set of 883's, but I have a feeling it will sag with the 881 coils which are for stock weight (bumpers maybe like 50-75lbs, hard to tell). Mainly, I just don't want to ruin the driveability during the week on my way to/from work
I looked up 882 coils but turns out they're stiffer than 883's - that sound right? Also reading conflicting information as to what offers what height
Edit: Does OME make any "medium" front coils, that also provide 2.5-3in - like something between the 881 and 883? Another concern I had is that my steel bumper might not warrant a real heavy set of 883's, but I have a feeling it will sag with the 881 coils which are for stock weight (bumpers maybe like 50-75lbs, hard to tell). Mainly, I just don't want to ruin the driveability during the week on my way to/from work
I looked up 882 coils but turns out they're stiffer than 883's - that sound right? Also reading conflicting information as to what offers what height
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96RedRunner
Senior Member
There are tradeoffs when lifting these Runners. Lifts I've used 2.5"-3" lift Fr, 3"-4" lift Rr.
I ran the SS1.2 lift with Billy's on 96RedRunner for 9 yrs 120k miles happy the whole time. Totaled 3-18.
Bought 01 2-17 put OME 3" kit 881 springs 90004 struts, 890 springs 60073 shocks, rough ride gave it a year to settle in
never did to my liking. Thought and researched for a year, March this year my 01 got Bilstein B8 Tundra 6112's on front, Bilstein LC 5160's on the rear with OME 890's. The new 890's a bit stiff, added 100 lb of weight plates till I build my rear bumper, rides how I like it. We'll see if I stick with the 890's, LC 7.5 wrap springs my next choice, 8 wraps more rake than I want this time.
For your reference the 01 fat lip bumper weighed 93 lbs, I think your bumper weighs the same. The AOR plate bumper weighed 104 lb, the 881 springs didn't sag at all with 11 lb weight difference. My opinion the OME struts and shocks are valved to stiff for Runners at stock weight didn't help any with more weight.
Again my opinion Billy 5100's valved for stock Runner are not a good choice for a Runner with added weight, your in the neighborhood of what a stock Tundra/LC weighs, Tundra/LC valving makes for a nice ride street or trail.
I ran the SS1.2 lift with Billy's on 96RedRunner for 9 yrs 120k miles happy the whole time. Totaled 3-18.
Bought 01 2-17 put OME 3" kit 881 springs 90004 struts, 890 springs 60073 shocks, rough ride gave it a year to settle in
never did to my liking. Thought and researched for a year, March this year my 01 got Bilstein B8 Tundra 6112's on front, Bilstein LC 5160's on the rear with OME 890's. The new 890's a bit stiff, added 100 lb of weight plates till I build my rear bumper, rides how I like it. We'll see if I stick with the 890's, LC 7.5 wrap springs my next choice, 8 wraps more rake than I want this time.
For your reference the 01 fat lip bumper weighed 93 lbs, I think your bumper weighs the same. The AOR plate bumper weighed 104 lb, the 881 springs didn't sag at all with 11 lb weight difference. My opinion the OME struts and shocks are valved to stiff for Runners at stock weight didn't help any with more weight.
Again my opinion Billy 5100's valved for stock Runner are not a good choice for a Runner with added weight, your in the neighborhood of what a stock Tundra/LC weighs, Tundra/LC valving makes for a nice ride street or trail.
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880- 500 LB/IN 365 mm free height
881- 500 LB/IN 375 mm free height
882- 500 LB/IN 395 mm free height
883- 590 LB/IN 375 mm free height
882's are longer free height but softer spring rate than 883's
Devbot
New member
Do they really? I've taken mine off before and it didn't seem that heavy - I'll have to find a way to measure my new one. It's a tube bumper so shouldn't be too bad, hopefully
In relation to the shocks I was curious about how these were valved, but saw a quite a few running way more gear than I and still approved of them. Maybe I'll take a look around; I'm certainly not tied to Bilstein and you really can't put a price on comfort.
Thank you. Just logically speaking it makes more sense they would be softer than 883s. I also just read that 882s are good for 100ish extra lbs of gear, opposed to the 200+ of the 883s, which would coincide. Might have to go for those - seems like they compress/flex very well too
Thank you guys really appreciate the help
Edit: weighed the steel bumper, it's almost 60lbs even.
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96RedRunner
Senior Member
[MENTION=549924]Devbot[/MENTION], maybe there is a difference in weight between what you have and my 01 limited fatlip,
I'm talking crash bar turns fogs valance flares brackets at corners nuts and bolts.
I used a regular body weight scale to weigh both.
Ride quality is subjective to the nut connecting driver seat to steering wheel.
Bilstein is good stuff at a good price, my experience is with Tundra/LC setup with OEM springs.
Or what I'm running now with Tundra B8-6112's and LC B-5160's and OME 890's.
I'm talking crash bar turns fogs valance flares brackets at corners nuts and bolts.
I used a regular body weight scale to weigh both.
Ride quality is subjective to the nut connecting driver seat to steering wheel.
Bilstein is good stuff at a good price, my experience is with Tundra/LC setup with OEM springs.
Or what I'm running now with Tundra B8-6112's and LC B-5160's and OME 890's.
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Devbot
New member
Are there any 3in coil options that are a good alternative for OME? My problem is their springs are either rated for stock weight or 250+ lbs each, and I'll only be running about 150ish on both ends (bumper/winch+bumper/tire carrier)
I was considering TRD shocks/coils up front, but am unsure of the weight they can take before sagging and what to go with in back. I also hear loads of people say OME's are still very stiff even when fully loaded, and I'd prefer to have some give in my springs.
I was considering TRD shocks/coils up front, but am unsure of the weight they can take before sagging and what to go with in back. I also hear loads of people say OME's are still very stiff even when fully loaded, and I'd prefer to have some give in my springs.
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