3rd Gen 4Runner Lift Information and FAQ's

[JBrew13]

That's not the skid plate you are looking at! I have removed it for now. There are these 2 bars that drop the steering rack and the lower control arms I guess.

after some wire brushing lol, I found a label on the shocks! Reflex p126 71352L

I wonder if I could just ditch the massive spacer and replace it with bigger shocks/coils?

 

[Devbot]

There are these 2 bars that drop the steering rack and the lower control arms I guess.

after some wire brushing lol, I found a label on the shocks! Reflex p126 71352L

I wonder if I could just ditch the massive spacer and replace it with bigger shocks/coils?

Man you're throwing some curveballs here :wacko::loco: Interesting as hell nonetheless
I most certainly would, and would start undoing all this mumbo jumbo too. I have no clue how it feels now but I bet you'll find it rides much better
There's plenty of information in this thread as to what's available, what's needed with a lift, doing it on a budget, etc. as I'm sure you've seen. My advice is most things you see that are "recommended" you'll probably find are necessary, so keep that in mind. That just seems to be the case with many, myself included

 

[JBrew13]

It actually drives quite nicely.
When I got my wheel alignment after a new steering rack, they told me it was a weird lift, but solid so I should probably leave it .

Do you guys see any problem with just taking out the massive spacer and replacing the shock/coil with something that will give me the same lift and allow me to add the winch and plate bumper?

 

[LivingHI]

4” procomp lift

 

[Bad Luck]

Hello, long time lurker here I'm in the middle of welding up a coastal offroad bumper, and can't for the life of me figure out what kind of lift I have. From centre of hub to limited fender I have 25" front and back.

The rear looks to be a bigger coil and shock but what the hell is on my front!? Obvs this was installed by previous owner. The only marking I found was on the skid plate. Just tells me it's made by pro-comp.

I will be putting a winch on this as well, and wonder If I need to change things up to avoid sagging.

Thanks in advance!

Someone put a 4" procomp lift meant for a tacoma on your 4Runner in the front and then probably used coil spring spacers in the rear. In order to install that they had to cut and weld so now you are pretty much stuck with it unless you swap frames or cut and weld what you need from a donor frame.

 

[Carter6]

Hey all! I'm planning on installing the Sonoran Steel 1.2 lift kit on my 2001 4Runner, and I was wondering what kind of tire size this would allow me to run? I see 285s seem to be pretty popular, but I'm new to the 4Runner world, so I'm not as well versed. Thanks!

 

[Devbot]

Oddball question, but does anyone have pictures comparing Tundra TRDs/5100s to Tundra Eibachs/5100s?

 

[robertcrav]

Had SS1.2 Billy 5100's Tundra/LC 8 wrap on 96Red long time liked it.
Red's 01 replacement tried OME 3" lift, had to go.
Giving the Billy 6112 & 5160 setup a try 6k mi on it, seems to be a step up from 5100's.

I sent you a pm, but curious how you are liking this combo

 

[jcmb45678]

Hey guys,
I am looking to put a 3 inch lift on my 01 sr5 4wd. What is the best set up to run?

 

[Bad Luck]

Hey guys,
I am looking to put a 3 inch lift on my 01 sr5 4wd. What is the best set up to run?

How much money you got?

 

[jcmb45678]

How much money you got?

The goal is to keep it under a grand

 

[G_Raw]

feel like at that price it's OME shocks and coils vs OME coils on Bilstein shocks. Also stiffness and shocks depend on use of vehicle. Road, Offroad, combo, etc.

 

[Bad Luck]

The goal is to keep it under a grand

Have you replaced the lower ball joints or know when they were replaced? I know it seems like we're beating a dead horse about lower ball joints, but they will cause a lot of damage when they fail. OEM only unless you know how to check them properly according to the FSM or feel like replacing them often.

For under a grand bilsteins with OME springs is pretty popular. You might also look at toytec's bilstein lift kit too: BK9602 - 3" lift Toytec/Bilstein kit for 96-02 4Runner

 

[jcmb45678]

Have you replaced the lower ball joints or know when they were replaced? I know it seems like we're beating a dead horse about lower ball joints, but they will cause a lot of damage when they fail. OEM only unless you know how to check them properly according to the FSM or feel like replacing them often.

For under a grand bilsteins with OME springs is pretty popular. You might also look at toytec's bilstein lift kit too: BK9602 - 3" lift Toytec/Bilstein kit for 96-02 4Runner

What about this setup? using OME 881 for front and OME 890 in the back

 

[Bad Luck]

What about this setup? using OME 881 for front and OME 890 in the back

That's a pretty popular setup as well. I'd recommend adding the extended brake lines for the rear. (2001-2002 require 2 extended brake lines for the rear vs 1996-2000 only require one.)

 

[jcmb45678]

That's a pretty popular setup as well. I'd recommend adding the extended brake lines for the rear. (2001-2002 require 2 extended brake lines for the rear vs 1996-2000 only require one.)

What about the front dif drop Rear trim Packers and Panhard correction kit?

 

[Bad Luck]

What about the front dif drop Rear trim Packers and Panhard correction kit?

Front diff drop effectiveness is debatable. Some people swear by them and some people don't see a difference.

Trim packers may be required to get the driver and passenger side even. This is because there is more weight on the driver side than the passenger side. The fuel tank is on the driver side. The transfer case and front differential also have more weight on the driver side. I would recommend installing the lift first and driving around for a few months before breaking out the tape measure to determine if you need trim packers and what thickness trim packers.

Panhard correction helps with drivability. The best kit (in my opinion) is the eimkeith weld it yourself panhard correction brackets (which I think is the panhard correction kit option for that lift package). If that's not in your budget or skillset then you can use an adjustable panhard bar.

 

[cl4Rk]

The goal is to keep it under a grand

Remember to budget for these things before* a lift:
- new OEM Lower Ball Joints (and OEM bolts) like [MENTION=319302]Bad Luck[/MENTION] said
- new Radiator (or bypass with external ATF cooler) if you have an Auto

Remember to budget as part of your lift:
- new (or reman'd, or rebooted) CV axles as these will likely tear during or immediately after the lift.

Also, don't underestimate the difference new bushings can make...

*I say before a lift, because if either one of these things fail (broken LBJs, or Pink Milkshake) then you'll end up spending WAY more than you want to, or maybe even be forced to walk away.

3rd Gen 4Runner Buyer's Guide - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum

Best of luck!!

 

[Thepedigree13]

I lifted my 3rd gen last year.

Within a few months threw grease from both cv axels. Last month was under the truck trying to identify a squeak when I discovered my passenger side LBJ was completely shredded and had hardly any grease in it.

I checked them prior to the lift, but they are clearly a part that needs replaced periodically.

Already replaced the OEM radiator as preventative maintenence.

I agree hold off on the lift until you have budgeted for potential CV axel grumpiness, and replacing your LBJ. Good news is LBJ are easy to swap. Took me and a buddy about an hour to complete both sides. They run about $250 for the pair.

I went "cheap" on my lift. 5100 all around $450, FJ coils in front $50, Dobinsons in rear $200. Plus new strut isolators and miscellaneous parts. Total around $800. I like it, and it gave me about 2" all around to keep the factory geometry pretty close to stock.

 

[Devbot]

I lifted my 3rd gen last year.

Within a few months threw grease from both cv axels. Last month was under the truck trying to identify a squeak when I discovered my passenger side LBJ was completely shredded and had hardly any grease in it.

I checked them prior to the lift, but they are clearly a part that needs replaced periodically.

Already replaced the OEM radiator as preventative maintenence.

I agree hold off on the lift until you have budgeted for potential CV axel grumpiness, and replacing your LBJ. Good news is LBJ are easy to swap. Took me and a buddy about an hour to complete both sides. They run about $250 for the pair.

I went "cheap" on my lift. 5100 all around $450, FJ coils in front $50, Dobinsons in rear $200. Plus new strut isolators and miscellaneous parts. Total around $800. I like it, and it gave me about 2" all around to keep the factory geometry pretty close to stock.

Same here - tried to get away without replacing CVs and LBJs and ended up having to do it shortly after. UCAs too. And wheel bearings. And rear driveline. And the ECGS clamshell. And upper trailing arms :help: Pretty much anything that was "recommended" I found to be necessary, as do many others. Unless you like pops, clunks and vibrations :ear:
It's just something that comes with age/mileage. The cost of owning an aging vehicle, if you will