Link to install guide below from SS website
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0669/8116/7423/files/guide.pdf?v=1667684257
3rd Gen 4Runner Lift Information and FAQ's
- Thread starter steezemcqueen
- Start date
Link to install guide below from SS website
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0669/8116/7423/files/guide.pdf?v=1667684257
Speedy
Member
Thanks! I looked all over his site, searched, etc and never could find them.
Interesting on the coil spring direction in his instructions. When I put mine on and had the ends of the coils pointed inboard the spring hit the spindle. I had to turn mine 180° out to solve that. Maybe yet another difference between the 1999 model they based theirs on and other years. Mine's a 2002.
You can look for the install guide in the newer Radflo version of the lift, just below the parts list. The FAQ section on the site is a wealth of knowledge also, in my opinion.
I’ve had no issues with spindle contact on my 2000 with the coils facing inward. I originally was set on the first perch up front with the 906’s and Tundra Bilstein in the rear. I have since gone up to the second perch up front and swapped out the rear for 4th Gen Bilstein and 890’s, which is basically the SS 7.2 if I’m not mistaken. I left the cone bump stop in and added a 10mm trim between each for a bit more lift. Considering the 861 or LC coils with the addition of a 4XI rear bumper and swing out.
Correction - trim packer added between coil and cone bump stop
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Speedy
Member
Ah gotcha, I kept looking in the 1.2 Classic lift area. FAQs are good I agree.
I've got TRD Tundra coils and the Tundra 5100s up front on the first perch. 906 and 5100s in the rear. Rides great. I have about 3/4" of rake with the rear being higher and I'm going to bump my front up to the second perch to get it about perfectly level. I couldn't remember of moving the coils up a perch required re-indexing to avoid the spindle or not. The guide doesn't stipulate so I'll have to see how that goes. I got mine to clear but it's real close on the passenger side at full droop.
Interestingly, I never extended any brake lines, no pan hard bar changes (mine's still stock), etc. No bump stop changes either. I don't get mine crossed up with tires stuffed in the wheel wells though so maybe that's how I've gotten away with it.
I was all set on 285/75R16s as well since they look great, but every tire I can find in that size is super heavy compared to the 265/75R16 I run now. Like 15 to 20 pounds more per tire. Can't justify that much rotational mass so I'm gonna go back with some Toyo Open Country AT3 tires in 265/75R16. I spent too much time getting the supercharger and meth injection dialed in for maximum power to kill it with 55-60lbs tires. Maybe one day we'll get a SL or C load tire I can upgrade to.
I've got TRD Tundra coils and the Tundra 5100s up front on the first perch. 906 and 5100s in the rear. Rides great. I have about 3/4" of rake with the rear being higher and I'm going to bump my front up to the second perch to get it about perfectly level. I couldn't remember of moving the coils up a perch required re-indexing to avoid the spindle or not. The guide doesn't stipulate so I'll have to see how that goes. I got mine to clear but it's real close on the passenger side at full droop.
Interestingly, I never extended any brake lines, no pan hard bar changes (mine's still stock), etc. No bump stop changes either. I don't get mine crossed up with tires stuffed in the wheel wells though so maybe that's how I've gotten away with it.
I was all set on 285/75R16s as well since they look great, but every tire I can find in that size is super heavy compared to the 265/75R16 I run now. Like 15 to 20 pounds more per tire. Can't justify that much rotational mass so I'm gonna go back with some Toyo Open Country AT3 tires in 265/75R16. I spent too much time getting the supercharger and meth injection dialed in for maximum power to kill it with 55-60lbs tires. Maybe one day we'll get a SL or C load tire I can upgrade to.
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I have the same up front on the second perch. I’d suggest following the install guide on the spring orientation if you decide to go up a perch, seems like SS has thoroughly tested that set up. I started to throw a bit of CV grease on the driver side after going to the second perch but haven’t addressed that yet.
I also did not install the extra parts in the rear even after swapping to 890’s, except for extended Durobumps. I’ve stuck with the 265/75/16 KO2’s but have also debated going up to the 285’s. I like the ride and the stance with the 890’s and 4th Gen bilstein shocks. SS touts that as a “level lift” without the 10mm trim packer.
I also did not install the extra parts in the rear even after swapping to 890’s, except for extended Durobumps. I’ve stuck with the 265/75/16 KO2’s but have also debated going up to the 285’s. I like the ride and the stance with the 890’s and 4th Gen bilstein shocks. SS touts that as a “level lift” without the 10mm trim packer.
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Speedy
Member
You might consider these if you haven't seen them:
Extended/High articulation CV Axle
Mine aren't torn, they're just seeping a tiny bit of grease at the boot clamp area. Not even enough to fling (yet). Mine are 21 years old now so I'm sure they're brittle so I'll have to see how it goes when I get to working on it.
Boot kit is about $50 I think, whole new standard after market axle is the same price, probably easier labor wise to just swap the axle or go to those extended ones.
Extended/High articulation CV Axle
Mine aren't torn, they're just seeping a tiny bit of grease at the boot clamp area. Not even enough to fling (yet). Mine are 21 years old now so I'm sure they're brittle so I'll have to see how it goes when I get to working on it.
Boot kit is about $50 I think, whole new standard after market axle is the same price, probably easier labor wise to just swap the axle or go to those extended ones.
I have to have the coil end on the outside as well otherwise the ball joint/knuckle hits the spring. I believe that's how it is from the factory and the way it should be. I hate to say that Steve is wrong about this, but it appears that way.
Rushthezeppelin
New member
Weighing my options for refreshing/upgrading my front suspension (I feel like I've spent way too much time researching this so far). So I just ditched the rear setup that was on my truck which was some freedom offroad shocks with what I think were possibly OME spings (I know they are progressive rate but no markings) and a 2" spacer. I'm now riding on LC 8 wraps and Tokicos and I couldn't be happier as it seems my rears were pretty clapped in addition to the harshness of a spacer.
Now I really want to tackle the front as it's more obvious there's still a fair amount ride harshness up there. It appears to have Monroe Quick Struts and a spacer. Don't know if they are clapped too but considering the spacer and the very faded stickers I suspect they might be. I was told when buying the vehicle that it was a 2" spacer but I have a fender flare (SR5 type) to center axle measurement of 23" which seems is more a 2.5" lift. I would like to maintain this 2.5", don't want lower as I'm sure I won't like more rake (probably at about 1"-1.25" after LCs settled) but I also don't want to go crazy the other direction. Not looking for the most hardcore offroad ride either but I do like to do harder trails but still want a good street ride. I also would like to avoid using a widowmaker (spring compressor) and don't mind paying a little extra for a preassembled setup.
So I looked into the Tundra front lift option but it seems new this setup will run $700. I'm not sure how I feel about used either because don't you run the risk of getting a very clapped out setup? Also looked at 881s+5100s but it seems like most are sold in a full suspension set. I did find this one that is listed for 1st gen Tacos and also mentions that it would fit on a 3rd gen t4r but you have to spin it 1st Gen Tacoma Bilstein 5100 Series with Old Man Emu Springs. They seem to offer in 2" and 3", I assume this just means which perch setting they use? Are there only two perch settings on these? As far as coilovers go I would love that option but I'm not sure it makes sense for use case and I would love to spend that money on other things like a bumper/winch/lockers/etc. Anything else missing here? I just want a better ride than what I currently have and something that will take a bit of offroad abuse and something that could eventually hold a bumper up (as well as the skids I already put on).
Now I really want to tackle the front as it's more obvious there's still a fair amount ride harshness up there. It appears to have Monroe Quick Struts and a spacer. Don't know if they are clapped too but considering the spacer and the very faded stickers I suspect they might be. I was told when buying the vehicle that it was a 2" spacer but I have a fender flare (SR5 type) to center axle measurement of 23" which seems is more a 2.5" lift. I would like to maintain this 2.5", don't want lower as I'm sure I won't like more rake (probably at about 1"-1.25" after LCs settled) but I also don't want to go crazy the other direction. Not looking for the most hardcore offroad ride either but I do like to do harder trails but still want a good street ride. I also would like to avoid using a widowmaker (spring compressor) and don't mind paying a little extra for a preassembled setup.
So I looked into the Tundra front lift option but it seems new this setup will run $700. I'm not sure how I feel about used either because don't you run the risk of getting a very clapped out setup? Also looked at 881s+5100s but it seems like most are sold in a full suspension set. I did find this one that is listed for 1st gen Tacos and also mentions that it would fit on a 3rd gen t4r but you have to spin it 1st Gen Tacoma Bilstein 5100 Series with Old Man Emu Springs. They seem to offer in 2" and 3", I assume this just means which perch setting they use? Are there only two perch settings on these? As far as coilovers go I would love that option but I'm not sure it makes sense for use case and I would love to spend that money on other things like a bumper/winch/lockers/etc. Anything else missing here? I just want a better ride than what I currently have and something that will take a bit of offroad abuse and something that could eventually hold a bumper up (as well as the skids I already put on).
Rushthezeppelin
New member
Drat now I'm contemplating the 6112s too. Seems to be a nice middle ground between 5100s/881s and going full coilover? Is there a definite benefit on/off road for a weekend warrior with these to warrant the price increase but still not go full coilover?
Comparison is done on 5th Gens, but the results would carry over to any vehicle: 5th Gen 4Runner Shootout - Bilstein 5100 vs 6112
– Shock Surplus
96RedRunner
Senior Member
Latest lift since 2019 on my 01 Tundra 6112's 650# SPC UCA's & LC 5160's OME 890's much better than 5100's both on/offroad.
I consider this a very good stopping point before jumping into coilover cost for how I use it, DD & Dual electric lockers go where I want.
I consider this a very good stopping point before jumping into coilover cost for how I use it, DD & Dual electric lockers go where I want.
Thanks for the info. Do you have an aftermarket bumper and a winch?
phattyduck
Elite Member
You just have to test and adjust for each spring/shock combo. Whatever clears at full droop is what you should go with... The clocking of the spring has no affect on ride height or otherwise.
-Charlie
Speedy
Member
I'm asking this because I've forgotten over the past 9 years or so. You just rotate the strut assembly in the shock tower to align the spring I think? I don't remember having to disassemble the strut/spring to relocate the coils to fit.
You have to compress the spring to remove the tension to allow you to rotate the spring and lower cup. I don't think you can do this on the vehicle very easily. You can't turn the assembly 180* because the upper studs won't clock correctly because they are 120* apart.
Speedy
Member
I must have gotten lucky when I did this before then. I know for sure I didn't disassemble the spring and shock to rotate the cup.
