3rd Gen 4Runner Lift Information and FAQ's

So I bought these off a guy last night...
trdtundra.png~original


I want to run either the OME 906 or 890...I've heard claims for both. I just plan on running the TRDs as is, which should net 2-2.5"...should I just go with the 890s? I don't haul very much, and do a little mudding, but not any rock crawling, and I would like a pretty level stance, maybe 1/2" of rake or so. Also, I was looking at the Rough Country 9000s as rear shocks, anyone currently have these that can give a review...or a different suggestion on rear shock. Thanks
Rough Country Nitro 9000 Shocks from Wheeler's Off-Road, Inc
 
They look good. I've been looking for some of these for awhile. You must have find them locally on craigslist. I'm thinking of being a guinea pig for everyone else and trying to find a front suspension setup off another Toyota vehicle that hadn't been used(I've got a good lead). It may be epic fail but I won't know until I try.
 
I actually signed up on a couple Tundra forums...tundrasolutions.com and tundratalk.net...and put in a WTB add on there. I got a couple bites before these popped up...62K, only street driving. Paid $50 and $40 for shipping, so $90 total isn't bad at all.
 
sag

I was going to go with the tundra springs on the front and the fj80 on the rear, on my '99 4runner. But my question is when I install new front and rear bumpers, will they sag.
 
Hey guys, I need some help with my Tundra struts. I have the blue/orange and blue/green springs and I need to know which is right and which is left. Any help is appreciated.
 
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Tundra spring issues

Need some help! So i ordered my tundra springs for my 99 t4r from discount toyota parts online using part numbers 48131-AF100 (driver side) and 48131-AF090 (passenger side). Well they arrived via fedex today and both springs colors are yellow/blue as you can see in the pics. The factory tag has been removed from one but had a sticker with part number 48131-af100 FR, I'm assuming which means front right? I know the driver side spring should be yellow/yellow. Is there a passenger side spring with that same part number with the colors yellow/blue. I know i specified left hand and right hand with the part numbers when i ordered them. I am also wanting to know what kind of issues i would have running the yellow/blue on the driver side? Any info on this would be greatly appreciated. Sorry for the big pics i tried to resize with no luck.
 

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The difference will be 0-.5" in height, hard to say exactly. I would have them send you the correct one so you don't have as much discrepancy and the drivers side carries more weight. There won't be any issues as I did that my first time putting my tundra coils on (not my finest moment).
 
The difference will be 0-.5" in height, hard to say exactly. I would have them send you the correct one so you don't have as much discrepancy and the drivers side carries more weight. There won't be any issues as I did that my first time putting my tundra coils on (not my finest moment).
Thanks for the info.
 
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QUOTE]


Does anyone know how much inches lift and how big the tires are on the 4r on the right?


Looks like 05 LTD's rig

Here are his specs...
OME 882 with topouts/861 LC shocks
315/75/16 Duratracs

I'd say 3-3.5" in the front and 5" rear, with extra weight at the back, it could go down as far as 4"...approximate.
 
I found a new project for the next couple years once I'm finished my 4th gen... Right now it's all stock except I threw my 4th gen rims on it! I plan on finishing a few more things on my current project before I start, but I will definatly start paying alot more attention to the 3rd Gen sub-forrum and will be full of questions at some point once I figure out what I want with this thing... (Its my dads but he said "have fun with it" :boink: )

IMG_0021a.jpg
 

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How can i tell if my Tundra coils or HDs are worn out?

When i bought um they couldnt tell me how many miles were on um. Theyre the YY/YBs fitted with tundra HDs off a 04 tundra according to the yard i bought um from. The truck tends to kind of float? and side roll has increased. But at lower spds the ride is great. Is this just the nature of a progressive spring or maybe the coils are fine and the HDs are done up? Thanks
 
Looks like 05 LTD's rig

Here are his specs...
OME 882 with topouts/861 LC shocks
315/75/16 Duratracs

I'd say 3-3.5" in the front and 5" rear, with extra weight at the back, it could go down as far as 4"...approximate.

Thanks for the info...looking to lift my 4r about that height and tire size. How is the ride quality on that setup?
 
Just picked up some 7.5 wrap 80 series springs for my runner. I also bought some rear shocks out of a 2008 FJ cruiser, as I was told that they will work in the rear of the 3rd gen 4Runners. He held them side by side with an LX450 rear shock, and they are the exact same length and the mounts looked identical.

Can anyone confirm that they do in fact work?


EDIT: I found that a user on the ih8mud forum is using FJC shocks on his lifted 3rd gen with good results. At $40 for the set of shocks and $80 for the set of LC coils, I think I may have just scored big time. :D
 
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Heres a little info on diffs/lockers i wrote for someone. Maybe it will pop up on a search for someone in the future.:

If you want a selectable locker, which I would recommend to anyone looking who drives a lot on the street, and goes wheeling every once in awhile. or to someone who shares their truck with a GF or something. Or maybe you just like the idea.

The selectable lockers for the toyota 8" v6 diff that you have are The yukon Zip locker (air) and the arb air locker. And the OEM e locker which is possible to swap in.


Heres the deal with the rest

BOTH lunchbox lockers ANDfull carrier replacement lockers are what you call an auto locker. They do let the tires differentiate in speed while turning to some extent. This is usually torque dependent. IE. If in neutral they almost act like an open diff, but when on the gas they are fully locked up.

The difference is in how they accomplish this. A lunchbox locker re-uses the stock carrier all ready in your axle. They replace the spider gears and in some cases the spider gears and side gears (these are the gears that make it an open diff). So because of this they are inexpensive ( less than $300 ) and anyone that can turn a wrench can install it them self.

A full carrier replacement locker is exactly that. It replaces the stock carrier with a new much stronger unit. This is why they are more expensive than lunch box lockers. This new unit needs the carrier bearings pressed on and the gears to be re-setup, Mainly the backlash. So this needs to be done by a shop or someone that knows their way around a diff. Its really not hard at all. I have set up quite a few these last months. But it takes a press and some special tools. Full carrier lockers work a little more smoothly than lunch box lockers from what I have seen.

Selectable lockers are full carrier replacements But they are open and can be locked. Keep in mind these when locked are spooled (no wheel differentiation what so ever). And these too will need to be set up.

There are also Spools. Which is just a chunk of metal that the bearings and ring gear go on that replaces the carrier and all the moving parts in it. These are the strongest option. And cheapest. but since the axle shafts are 100% locked together all the time they are bad to drive on the street.

And finally there are limited slip diffs that I personally think are useless for the majority or moderate to hard wheeling. They utilize clutch packs ore helical gears in the diff to let one tire spin and proved some traction to the other. These have one HUGE flaw. They work great when both tires are firmly planted on the ground, But they need traction on both to work. If you end up hanging a tire, or in snow, or in mud, or in big rocks and both tires do not have traction it will act just as an open diff. So basically it gets up to the point you really need some traction then gives out just at the perfectly wrong time...
 
Thanks for that info. I drove an Aussie-locker equipped runner on the road once and it's actuation seemed quite smooth to me. I really didn't think it interfered with the on road drivability at all. That being said, it did make a lot of awful banging and popping noises and I've heard that they suffer from reliability issues.

It seems like the e locker is the best option in a lot of cases. I'll probably end up shelling out the money for an elocker axle and 4.30 front diff one of these days lol
 
Just picked up some 7.5 wrap 80 series springs for my runner. I also bought some rear shocks out of a 2008 FJ cruiser, as I was told that they will work in the rear of the 3rd gen 4Runners. He held them side by side with an LX450 rear shock, and they are the exact same length and the mounts looked identical.

Can anyone confirm that they do in fact work?


EDIT: I found that a user on the ih8mud forum is using FJC shocks on his lifted 3rd gen with good results. At $40 for the set of shocks and $80 for the set of LC coils, I think I may have just scored big time. :D

I'm curious how the FJ Cruiser shocks work. Are you using them for the front or the rear and for a 3rd gen with how much lift?
 
Anyone running this current set-up?

COILS

STRUTS

Most use these coils with those bilsteins, but I could save $140 with the first set of coils. I know the cheaper ones get me 3 inches of lift and the others are adjustable. Give me thoughts or feedback.
 

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