3rd Gen 4runner Preventative Maintenance

30,000 Mile Service Video

Hey Guys and Gals,

[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I got another video for you. We call it a 30,000 mile Service because these are things you would commonly do at this mile interval unless you're using synthetic fluids. We learned on this video to not rely solely on my headlamp as a lighting source so some of the footage came out pretty dark. Where it was really bad, like the part where I'm changing the oil filter, we added some footage to make up for what you couldn't see.

This would be a good video for those that are new to wrenching on their trucks and want to start off with simple things like fluid changes.

Here it is and Enjoy the Show!

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/a81i1Cayf_I" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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Great Video. I will definitely reference it when overhauling my fluids. On another note, call me crazy, maybe its intuition, But I get the feeling that you prefer Macs over PCs.......

Anyways, keep posting great write-ups (video-ups?)
 
Great Video. I will definitely reference it when overhauling my fluids. On another note, call me crazy, maybe its intuition, But I get the feeling that you prefer Macs over PCs.......

Anyways, keep posting great write-ups (video-ups?)

Your intuition is correct. [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] is an Apple computer guru. I use a Mac too, but I'm not a sophisticated user like he is. The Dudes got skills.
 
On at least the 01-02 you have to have the key at on to bleed the brakes. And to bleed the rear brakes you just push the pedal down and open the bleeder. The abs pump will keep pumping the fluid out. No need to pump with your feet. The front brakes bleed like normal brakes, can't remember if you need the key at on for the front or not.

This is good to know. I think I'll search for information in my 2000 FSM and see the steps they recommend to bleed the brakes.
 
How to Find a Engine Vacuum Leaks With A Cigar

This guy has inspired me for years and sometimes he works on our beloved 3rd Gen in his videos


<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/zMok2y05jNE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
This guy has inspired me for years and sometimes he works on our beloved 3rd Gen in his videos


<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/zMok2y05jNE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I've seen a video from him before. He is pretty good and to the point.
 
I didn't know this^.

I used the mityvac hand pump. It worked, just took a while.

That brings up a question I had! I picked up a mityvac recently for top-side oil changes on my Golf R. I was reading in the instructions about how you can use it for bleeding brakes too. Any insight into this? How, etc.?
 
Scotty's neighbors must hate him peeling out in the road. Probably still lives with mom. Either he drinks ten cups of Java before shooting a video or just has too much energy.

He does give some lucid advice and insight though.
 
That brings up a question I had! I picked up a mityvac recently for top-side oil changes on my Golf R. I was reading in the instructions about how you can use it for bleeding brakes too. Any insight into this? How, etc.?

My mityvac 8500 came with several different fittings and clear tubing. I ordered some extra 3/16" ID clear tubing to put on the bleeder valve.

1. Open master cylinder & suck out old fluid and fill with new.

2. Place a 10mm line wrench on the bleeder valve. I started with the passenger rear > driver rear > passenger front > driver front

3. Connect one end of the 3/16 tubing to the bleeder valve & the other end to the mityvac reservoir.

4. Open the bleeder valve and start pumping the mityvac and keep the pressure around 15 psi. Keep pumping until you see the new brake fluid coming out of the clear tubing.

5. Once you see the new brake fluid, keep pumping to maintain the 15psi pressure then close the bleeder valve and move to the next brake.

*Periodically check the master cylinder & refill as needed.

When bleeding the rear brakes via the hand pump method, the fluid in the rear drum always looked like a thin stream. I noticed this on a couple different cars when doing the rear brakes. Not sure if the thin stream had to do with it being drum brakes or if that's typical with rear brakes in general when doing the hand pump method. At first I thought there was air in the clear tubing b/c the stream of old fluid looked thin but it turned out it wasn't trapped air and that's how it typically looks when using the hand pump...at least that's what I observed on a few different cars I did this on. I'm pretty sure it wasn't trapped air b/c my brake pedal still felt nice and firm. The front brakes had a nice full flow coming through the tubing and went a lot faster than doing the rear breaks.

A few months ago, I bled the brakes on my friends 4runner using the brake pump method and it went a lot faster. The only reason I didn't use the brake pump method on my 4runner was because I was paranoid of damaging the master cylinder seals.
 
Scotty's neighbors must hate him peeling out in the road. Probably still lives with mom. Either he drinks ten cups of Java before shooting a video or just has too much energy.

He does give some lucid advice and insight though.

You nailed it. He's just a little too hyper for me to watch for any length. Kind of like those annoying infomercial types that you want to reach through the television and punch.

But the content of his videos is pretty good.
 
My mityvac 8500 came with several different fittings and clear tubing. I ordered some extra 3/16" ID clear tubing to put on the bleeder valve.

1. Open [...]

Mind blown! I'm also going to use to suck out the power steering reservoir too! I've never done my brakes because I can never wrangle anyone into bleeding them with me, but now I don't need them anyway!

My girlfriend was annoyed (jokingly) the first time I did a topside oil change to the Golf because it sounded like I loved the Mityvac more than her. Now she's going to be rudely surprised by who is taking her place in my bed now.
 
Sub'd
Thanks for the collection of videos you have posted on Youtube. I just bought my 4Runner and those are going to help me so much!
 
I think I last did my Diffs & transfer case at 90,000. I'm at 160,00.
I'm pretty sure the manual said 90,000 intervals but I could be wrong.
 
I think I last did my Diffs & transfer case at 90,000. I'm at 160,00.
I'm pretty sure the manual said 90,000 intervals but I could be wrong.

Uhhhh, dude you're wrong but maybe you're just kidding. I really hope you're kidding and you don't have 70,000 miles on the gear oils in your differential and transfer case.

30,000 mile interval for transfer case and differentials with conventional gear oils and 50,000 mile interval for synthetic gear oils.
 
Uhhhh, dude you're wrong but maybe you're just kidding. I really hope you're kidding and you don't have 70,000 miles on the gear oils in your differential and transfer case.

30,000 mile interval for transfer case and differentials with conventional gear oils and 50,000 mile interval for synthetic gear oils.

LOL I'm not kidding, do you know how many guys on here are buying used 3rd gens with 200,000 miles or more & the PO's never had them changed? LOL

I think I did do it every 30,000 but haven't done it since 90,000. I'll have to check my records. I used to drop it off for all of my scheduled maintenance.
:peep:
I'm on Amazon now buying all Red Line Gear Oils. I'm gonna do the M/Tranny fluid too while I'm down there. It's gonna be fun getting the rusted rear diff bolts off...Yes I know! 6 pt (not 12pt) socket & WD40! :bounce:
I assume you guys are putting a new gasket on every time?
I've been using a new crush gasket with every oil change now that I'm doing it myself.

https://www.amazon.com/GENUINE-TOYO...VICE/dp/B017V4BAXI/ref=wl_mb_wl_huc_mrai_3_dp
 
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LOL I'm not kidding, do you know how many guys on here are buying used 3rd gens with 200,000 miles or more & the PO's never had them changed? LOL

I think I did do it every 30,000 but haven't done it since 90,000. I'll have to check my records. I used to drop it off for all of my scheduled maintenance.
:peep:
I'm on Amazon now buying all Red Line Gear Oils. I'm gonna do the M/Tranny fluid too while I'm down there. It's gonna be fun getting the rusted rear diff bolts off...Yes I know! 6 pt (not 12pt) socket & WD40! :bounce:
I assume you guys are putting a new gasket on every time?
I've been using a new crush gasket with every oil change now that I'm doing it myself.

https://www.amazon.com/GENUINE-TOYO...VICE/dp/B017V4BAXI/ref=wl_mb_wl_huc_mrai_3_dp

Better late than never, I reckon. While you're on Amazon, buy yourself a nice size 1/2" drive breaker bar if you don't already own one. It will make breaking free those drain and fill bolts much easier.

Yes, use new drain plug washers every time.
 

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