3rd Gen 4runner Preventative Maintenance

[trplpwr]

So, back to the MAF sensor. I notice some throttle pedal free play on our 99 3.4.
There seems to be a low end bog as well, making a check list of other things that need attention. We are third owners and the last guy took pretty good care of it, but I will need to get to replacing fluids and other things. Last trip the check engine light came on after a long pull up hill. At the moment I have too many questions to ask. New tires and front end alignment are first I think it needs a right tie rod end, tire isn't worn much different than the rest. I will have the lower ball joints checked as well. Ours has 198k.
It doesn't have much in the way of oil leaks just weeping, next oil change I will use a high mile oil to help that. Plugs,, are the iridiums with single elctrode a good choice? or,
is there a size hotter in the twin electrodes that can be used. We have nothing but crap
ethanol here. That's enough for now..

 

[jgue467]

....single elctrode a good choice? ..

No. Must be like oem for optimal spark, twin. :COWBOY:

 

[Scramble]

Better late than never, I reckon. While you're on Amazon, buy yourself a nice size 1/2" drive breaker bar if you don't already own one. It will make breaking free those drain and fill bolts much easier.

Yes, use new drain plug washers every time.

I just bought a 24" one last April mostly for my lug nuts. The tire iron was pissing me off really bad one day. The breaker bar is amazing! I dont know how I lived without it for so many years! Thanks, looks like a small fluid pump too would make it easier too. 3 day weekend coming up, I will get this done!

PS, I checked my records last night & only found changes at 30,000, 60,000 & 90,000.

 

[AntleredRuin]

On that same note though, I will absolutely NEVER let one of those oil changer places touch my rig. I have heard of these places stripping out oil pan drain plugs, forgetting to tighten the drain plug or not putting the oil filter on right.

You forgot NOT filling back up with oil. I kid you not.

I just bought a 24" one last April mostly for my lug nuts. The tire iron was pissing me off really bad one day. The breaker bar is amazing! I dont know how I lived without it for so many years!

Here's my magically extending breaker bar (well, cheater bar on a breaker bar)
First you start with a tiny little gimp ass 3/8 Drive 10 inch long breaker bar (as to why this thing even exists is beyond me. I actually found it a few months ago; I would never have bought this thing)

Then you add any length of 3/4 black iron gas pipe from HD...

And BAM! Your breaker bar is actually useful, and you can change the handle as needed for tighter areas.

Also, does anyone have any genius ideas on how to keep the PCV grommet from completely falling apart at replacement? Everyone here has their horror story with the grommet, myself included. Any lube that can keep it flexible? Regularly apply a bit of old engine oil? A weekly spritz with PB Blaster?
Replacement is easy; it's getting the old grommet bits out from the valve cover that makes you almost willing to pay a shop to do it.

 

[mtbtim]

I just bought a 24" one last April mostly for my lug nuts. The tire iron was pissing me off really bad one day. The breaker bar is amazing! I dont know how I lived without it for so many years! Thanks, looks like a small fluid pump too would make it easier too. 3 day weekend coming up, I will get this done!

PS, I checked my records last night & only found changes at 30,000, 60,000 & 90,000.

Yeah, I wonder what a little electric fluid pump would run? That's a great idea but I imagine it could get a little messier because you'd have to be quick on the switch to turn the thing off when you've filled whatever you're servicing. But, I'm sure there's low volume pumps that would be perfect for this application. I think I'll do a little search on Amazon. Thanks for the idea. That freaking hand pump is definitely an arm burning workout.

 

[shahsmerdis]

You forgot NOT filling back up with oil. I kid you not.

Also, does anyone have any genius ideas on how to keep the PCV grommet from completely falling apart at replacement? Everyone here has their horror story with the grommet, myself included. Any lube that can keep it flexible? Regularly apply a bit of old engine oil? A weekly spritz with PB Blaster?
Replacement is easy; it's getting the old grommet bits out from the valve cover that makes you almost willing to pay a shop to do it.

I have to do my pcv soon too. My understanding there is a tray under the grommet in the valve cover so even if it falls a part you can vacuum it up. I'm still wondering if anyone knows of a way of holding it together as you break it apart with minimal brakage if any.

 

[Scramble]

Yeah, I wonder what a little electric fluid pump would run? That's a great idea but I imagine it could get a little messier because you'd have to be quick on the switch to turn the thing off when you've filled whatever you're servicing. But, I'm sure there's low volume pumps that would be perfect for this application. I think I'll do a little search on Amazon. Thanks for the idea. That freaking hand pump is definitely an arm burning workout.

I was gonna buy this pump.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQW5LK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Another question, can I use my ten pack of Toyota oil drain plug gaskets for the diffs, trans case & M/T? I see special gasket kits like this.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017V4BAXI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A32SNTCC2T0DPY

I'd rather use what I have.

 

[AntleredRuin]

I have to do my pcv soon too. My understanding there is a tray under the grommet in the valve cover so even if it falls a part you can vacuum it up. I'm still wondering if anyone knows of a way of holding it together as you break it apart with minimal brakage if any.

There is a tray, so it's not dangerous, but still annoying. I don't like little plastic bits rattling around in my engine. No vacuum extension I've ever seen will fit in there. You'd need a few different pairs of angled needle nose pliers, or just remove the whole valve cover and shake it out.

 

[Scramble]

Anybody in the rust belt using anti-seize on their fill/drain plugs? Good idea? Yes or No?

 

[shahsmerdis]

Anybody in the rust belt using anti-seize on their fill/drain plugs? Good idea? Yes or No?

it gets open and closed enough that it shouldn't matter. If you want you can fluid film the area once its tighten up. then when you remove it brake clean it.

But since it has a small layer of oil on it to begin with, it shouldn't rust up...

i do suggest Fluid filming your rear diff pumpkin though since its a common failure point

 

[TheDurk]

You forgot NOT filling back up with oil. I kid you not.




Here's my magically extending breaker bar (well, cheater bar on a breaker bar)
First you start with a tiny little gimp ass 3/8 Drive 10 inch long breaker bar (as to why this thing even exists is beyond me. I actually found it a few months ago; I would never have bought this thing)

Then you add any length of 3/4 black iron gas pipe from HD...

And BAM! Your breaker bar is actually useful, and you can change the handle as needed for tighter areas.


Also, does anyone have any genius ideas on how to keep the PCV grommet from completely falling apart at replacement? Everyone here has their horror story with the grommet, myself included. Any lube that can keep it flexible? Regularly apply a bit of old engine oil? A weekly spritz with PB Blaster?
Replacement is easy; it's getting the old grommet bits out from the valve cover that makes you almost willing to pay a shop to do it.

I just used an allen key in a pair of Vise-Grips to pull up on the bottom. Came out whole. Don't pry from the top.

On the breaker, that length of cheater is enough to break the 3/8" square end off the breaker bar if you get serious. Been there, done that--long time ago. That's why they make 1/2" drive sockets (and 3/4", which I use on my tractor.)

 

[mtbtim]

I just used an allen key in a pair of Vise-Grips to pull up on the bottom. Came out whole. Don't pry from the top.

On the breaker, that length of cheater is enough to break the 3/8" square end off the breaker bar if you get serious. Been there, done that--long time ago. That's why they make 1/2" drive sockets (and 3/4", which I use on my tractor.)

I like that technique for getting the PCV grommet out. I guess you just have to make sure that vice grip is firmly attached to the allen key. That would suck to drop it in the valve cover but I reckon you could probably fish it out with one of those telescoping magnet jobbers since there's that tray underneath the grommet hole to keep it from going too far. I almost dropped my brittle grommet in. The edges broke free most of the way and it was barely hanging there. I got a needle nose pliers on it just in time and was able to pull it out.

I also agree that using that cheater pipe on that small 3/8" breaker bar is pushing the tool beyond what it was designed for. I've done the same thing before, but now I own some bad mammajamma 1/2" breaker bars to get the job done.

Happy Wrenching!

 

[mtbtim]

I was gonna buy this pump.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQW5LK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Another question, can I use my ten pack of Toyota oil drain plug gaskets for the diffs, trans case & M/T? I see special gasket kits like this.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017V4BAXI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A32SNTCC2T0DPY

I'd rather use what I have.

That pump would work. I just bought one at O'Reillys. It had a tube extension so you can use the gallon size containers as well.

As for the gasket kit you provided a link to, the part numbers and quantities are correct:

These are the part numbers for the drain plug washers to do a fluid service on your rigs:

Transfer Case Fill & Drain Plug Washers: #90430-A0003 (need 2)
Differential Fill & Drain Plug Crush Washers: #12157-10010 (need 3, 2 for the rear fill and drain plugs and one for the front fill plug).
Front Differential Drain Plug Washer: #90430-24003 (need 1)
Engine Oil Pan Drain Plug Washer: #90430-12031 (need 1)
Auto Trans Drain Plug Crush Washer: #35178-30010 (need 1)

 

[Scramble]

My Sat is booked. Thanks for the advise guys. :tea:

 

[kolelt]

My Sat is booked. Thanks for the advise guys. :tea:

What's the difference between two. Besides one saying transmission oil and one saying transmission and transaxle, and the other just synthetic.

 

[Scramble]

What's the difference between two. Besides one saying transmission oil and one saying transmission and transaxle, and the other just synthetic.

The MT 90 M/T fluid is GL-4 which doesn't have the reactive sulfurs that the GL-5 gear oils have. GL-5 oil in our M/T breaks down the Brass parts.
GL-4 for the trans & GL-5 for the diffs & T/C.

 

[kolelt]

The MT 90 M/T fluid is GL-4 which doesn't have the reactive sulfurs that the GL-5 gear oils have. GL-5 oil in our M/T breaks down the Brass parts.
GL-4 for the trans & GL-5 for the diffs & T/C.

Oh crap. I think I used valvoline GL-5!!!!
Is that bad ? How do you know this ? What about tcase?

 

[Scramble]

Oh crap. I think I used valvoline GL-5!!!!
Is that bad ? How do you know this ? What about tcase?

Drain it out. The sulfur in the GL-5 will eat away the brass parts in our trans. It's in the manual/specs for our trucks. GL-5 is for our diffs & t-case.
Here, read this thread, you posted in it. Gerdo knows his stuff. He has other gear oil threads too.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/102109-manual-tranny-fluid-brands.html

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/maintenance-detailing/76100-manual-trans-gear-oil.html

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/93527-there-another-way-fill-manual-transmission.html

http://www.yotatech.com/f2/manual-transmission-fluid-change-145864/

http://www.yotatech.com/f2/manual-trans-fluid-redlines-mt-90-a-211552/

Dont use the 4Runner.org write up from 2006 that everyone uses. It's old, out dated & wrong but it always comes up 1st in Google searches so people still use it.

I wanted to buy one gear oil if I could for everything & save money by buying a 5 gallon or 12 pack but research on this site lead me to realize that I would have to buy both GL-4 & 5. It's what Toyota recommends. I'd say come over on Sat while I'm doing mine but I dont think you'd want to drive 2 hrs just to change your M/T fluid. I'm doing both Diffs, T/C, M/T & maybe my engine oil if the drain & fill plugs dont give me any problems. I dont have 3000 miles on the oil yet but it's been in the motor since April.

 

[TheDurk]

I ran the Valvoline GL-5 for 30,000 miles many years ago in my very first change at 50k, before I learned the evils of sulfur. (I have used MT-90 since.) Still going strong at 180k. I e-mailed Valvoline about the sulfur thing and they wrote back saying they use an 'inactive' or 'stabilized' (I forget the exact word) form of sulfur that is no threat to synchronizers. I posted the e-mail at the time, but that was at least one computer ago and it has since evaporated, but you can find it if you search my 5000 posts hard enough. It made me feel better but I switched anyway.

So, I don't think it will destroy anything in the short term. My 1999 Toyota Owner's Manual actually specs GL-4 OR GL-5 in the trans. That said, MT-90 is really the tits. I use SuperTech in the engine, but MT-90 goes in the trans. Smooth as butter with a new clutch and Marlin Crawler HD shifter bushings.

 

[Scramble]

Soaked all plugs in WD40 this morning. F & R Diff plugs look rusted to shit. T/C & M/T look great. Must be Aluminum vs Steel Plugs? Anyway, I'm going to the dealer today & get all new plugs to save me from a probable headache tomorrow.