3rd Gen 4runner Preventative Maintenance

[shahsmerdis]

Soaked all plugs in WD40 this morning. F & R Diff plugs look rusted to shit. T/C & M/T look great. Must be Aluminum vs Steel Plugs? Anyway, I'm going to the dealer today & get all new plugs to save me from a probable headache tomorrow.

fluid film them when you are done. No more rust.

Change your rear diff breather while you are at it!

 

[Scramble]

fluid film them when you are done. No more rust.

Change your rear diff breather while you are at it!

Fluid film is only good for new cars. It doesn't prevent the spread of old rust. I plan on POR15 or Eastwooding my under carriage so cleaning off the fluid film in the future would be a bltch. I might just rub some grease or anti-seize on top of the new bolts for now.

I need to extend my rear breather! I've been slacking on that!
Thanks,

 

[ThorInc]

I ran the Valvoline GL-5 for 30,000 miles many years ago in my very first change at 50k, before I learned the evils of sulfur. (I have used MT-90 since.) Still going strong at 180k. I e-mailed Valvoline about the sulfur thing and they wrote back saying they use an 'inactive' or 'stabilized' (I forget the exact word) form of sulfur that is no threat to synchronizers. I posted the e-mail at the time, but that was at least one computer ago and it has since evaporated, but you can find it if you search my 5000 posts hard enough. It made me feel better but I switched anyway.

So, I don't think it will destroy anything in the short term. My 1999 Toyota Owner's Manual actually specs GL-4 OR GL-5 in the trans. That said, MT-90 is really the tits. I use SuperTech in the engine, but MT-90 goes in the trans. Smooth as butter with a new clutch and Marlin Crawler HD shifter bushings.

Interestingly enough, I ran MT-90 first for 8,000kms and changed it again for MT-90 for another 5-6,000kms to clean out any remaining old oil.........it might just be me but I then switch to the Amsoil GL-5 Severe Gear 75W110 in the 5 speed and I have not looked back. MC 1,200lb clutch, MC flywheel and MC bushings with Gaget's short throw and it's less notchy than the GL-4 Redline MT-90. This is just my personal experience and psychosis.....:zoom:

 

[badattitude]

Fluid Film has worked great for me, granted it's not permanent like a rust converter but overspray is not a concern either. POR 15 is a great product but I find Fluid Film so easy to use. I've applied to my chassis once or twice a year with good results. I like to hit the axel housing especially. Spray on anything that looks like it's developing rust.

To loosen nuts and bolts, like the drain plug mentioned, I find AeroKroil is the best penetrating fluid. I've only been able to buy AeroKroil online direct from manufacture.

 

[shahsmerdis]

Fluid film is only good for new cars. It doesn't prevent the spread of old rust. I plan on POR15 or Eastwooding my under carriage so cleaning off the fluid film in the future would be a bltch. I might just rub some grease or anti-seize on top of the new bolts for now.

I need to extend my rear breather! I've been slacking on that!
Thanks,

I meant fluid film your drain and fill bolts, if you are getting new ones that way next time you go there, all you gotta do is brake clean, and it will not be rusted shut.

it will slow down existing rust for sure... it won't do extra crusty rust, but if its a little surface rust it certainily is better until you are preped to do POR15.

In any case I never understood the point of POR15 if you cant do the inside frame as well...

 

[Scramble]

I meant fluid film your drain and fill bolts, if you are getting new ones that way next time you go there, all you gotta do is brake clean, and it will not be rusted shut.

it will slow down existing rust for sure... it won't do extra crusty rust, but if its a little surface rust it certainily is better until you are preped to do POR15.

In any case I never understood the point of POR15 if you cant do the inside frame as well...

But you can do the inside my young padawan. I'll be doing mine before the winter hits. It's too humid outside for me to do it now. Eastwood ...

Rust Paint - Rust Proofing Products - Rust Protection - Corrosion Control - Eastwood

 

[shahsmerdis]

But you can do the inside my young padawan. I'll be doing mine before the winter hits. It's too humid outside for me to do it now. Eastwood ...

Rust Paint - Rust Proofing Products - Rust Protection - Corrosion Control - Eastwood

obi wan,

I did a fair amount of rust proofing research. Maybe I am overthinking this, like I always do.

I looked at east woods internal frame coating, Seems like same difference as fluid film. east wood product seems like a little more more prep and more possibility of going wrong. If you don't degrease inside there I wonder how long it will bond. how do I know it adhere well enough? I know with fluid film I can just keep dumping additional coats in there. I don't know how well internal frame coating will penetrate into the rust rust scale inside the frame. Given the amount of water that gets into the frame, one (multi coat) application of FF should last a long time in there. Then again I really need to buy a bottle of that stuff and see how it works. I guess its really potato poTAto, in terms of performance at this point.


Before you do your entire frame, I suggest you do a test spot with this stuff

https://www.semproducts.com/rust-and-corrosion-rust-coatings/rust-traptm

they really impressed me when I spoke with the technical staff. Seems like new tech in terms of rust coating. descale, degrease, paint. I am going to call them to see if they have any free samples.

 

[kolelt]

Drain it out. The sulfur in the GL-5 will eat away the brass parts in our trans. It's in the manual/specs for our trucks. GL-5 is for our diffs & t-case.
Here, read this thread, you posted in it. Gerdo knows his stuff. He has other gear oil threads too.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/102109-manual-tranny-fluid-brands.html

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/maintenance-detailing/76100-manual-trans-gear-oil.html

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/93527-there-another-way-fill-manual-transmission.html

Manual Transmission Fluid Change - YotaTech Forums

Manual Trans Fluid, Redline's MT-90 - YotaTech Forums

Dont use the 4Runner.org write up from 2006 that everyone uses. It's old, out dated & wrong but it always comes up 1st in Google searches so people still use it.

I wanted to buy one gear oil if I could for everything & save money by buying a 5 gallon or 12 pack but research on this site lead me to realize that I would have to buy both GL-4 & 5. It's what Toyota recommends. I'd say come over on Sat while I'm doing mine but I dont think you'd want to drive 2 hrs just to change your M/T fluid. I'm doing both Diffs, T/C, M/T & maybe my engine oil if the drain & fill plugs dont give me any problems. I dont have 3000 miles on the oil yet but it's been in the motor since April.

Thanks bud. I have broken wrist. Can't really lose or tighten bolts. But would like to meet you and get my tranny flushed. I got $ for the work and fluids. Maybe pm if you don't mind. Please. To discuss more.

 

[Scramble]

Thanks bud. I have broken wrist. Can't really lose or tighten bolts. But would like to meet you and get my tranny flushed. I got $ for the work and fluids. Maybe pm if you don't mind. Please. To discuss more.

I dont want to do this without backup plugs handy in case I destroy the rusty ones getting them off. I went to East Coast Toyota in Rutherford today near my job & they didn't have one item I wanted! I want fill & drain plugs for both diffs, T/C & M/T plus both washers for the M/T. I was like WTF? Some of these plugs & washers are used from 96-16 4runners plus Taco's, FJ's etc... That place sucks, tried to get a free Toyota shirt out of them. LOL So I'm calling Johnstons Toyota in Middletown, NY when I get up & if that doesn't work I'll try Ramsey, NJ & then Nyack, NY. I work nights so I usually dont get up until 10-11am. If I get everything I need I'm down to do it Sunday, if not lets plan on next Sat. I'll just order from Camelback like I should have in the first place. I'll PM you my address so you can map it.

 

[kolelt]

I dont want to do this without backup plugs handy in case I destroy the rusty ones getting them off. I went to East Coast Toyota in Rutherford today near my job & they didn't have one item I wanted! I want fill & drain plugs for both diffs, T/C & M/T plus both washers for the M/T. I was like WTF? Some of these plugs & washers are used from 96-16 4runners plus Taco's, FJ's etc... That place sucks, tried to get a free Toyota shirt out of them. LOL So I'm calling Johnstons Toyota in Middletown, NY when I get up & if that doesn't work I'll try Ramsey, NJ & then Nyack, NY. I work nights so I usually dont get up until 10-11am. If I get everything I need I'm down to do it Sunday, if not lets plan on next Sat. I'll just order from Camelback like I should have in the first place. I'll PM you my address so you can map it.

Ok let me know. Middletown is about 30 min from me. I used to spar there there for boxing. lol.

 

[Scramble]

Ok let me know. Middletown is about 30 min from me. I used to spar there there for boxing. lol.

Middletown, NY? I thought you were down near Toms River?

 

[Bijan]

Transmission Fluid should be changed at a minimum every 30,000 miles. If you do a lot of off-roading or towing, a 15,000 mile interval is recommended. Since I just do a drain and refill of the pan and not a full flush, I change my trans fluid every 10,000 miles to keep the fluid in good shape. I renew around 5 quarts of the 12 quart capacity every drain and refill.

Can anyone else comment on this interval?

 

[jgue467]

I've had my 01 runner 6 yrs and about 120k miles. I had the trans fluid flushed , filter changed when I got it then drained/filled it once since along with the 3 diffs.

Crossing my fingers, I've read about your situation and researched the 340f trans across various boards (tundra, taco and ours) and they all indicate Some problems when towing with the OD on.

I even ran 5 years with Only an external cooler where temps Could reach 235+ on hills (when I didn't disable OD) and stop/go traffic.

Most recently I replaced the radiator (hairline crack at top) and put the trans cooling back thru it and the external cooler.

But I also learned using the 'ETC' button is nifty for accelleration via the shift point changes but not so good for normal driving over 'mild' hills in the austin area - OD keeps turning off and slipping occurs to allow engine to rev higher where it has more torque. I've just learned leaving ETC in 'economy' mode is easier on the trans cuz it keeps the OD locked much more of the time and thus cooler with less slipping going on.

Again, fingers crossed but so far it's all holding together. Yeah I know someday has to come but maybe it will be a long time from now. Luck to all and Happy Holidays. :cowboy:

 

[thatoneguy]

Useful thread. The link to the published scheduled maintenance on Toyota's website for these trucks is dead now.

I've owned my 3rd gen for four whole days now and I'm already worried about an impending strawberry milkshake. Seems radiator replacement is legitimately considered scheduled maintenance at this point?

 

[Bad Luck]

Useful thread. The link to the published scheduled maintenance on Toyota's website for these trucks is dead now.

I've owned my 3rd gen for four whole days now and I'm already worried about an impending strawberry milkshake. Seems radiator replacement is legitimately considered scheduled maintenance at this point?

Yes. Most people consider every 8-10 years a good replacement interval for radiator and radiator cap. If the plastic is brown or brittle then that's a good indicator as well. If you don't know when it was last replaced then it's better to err on the side of caution and replace the radiator.