3rd gen fuel injectors

[Dieselchessy]

I’m installing a JDM engine in a 98 rig. The 98 has the grey injectors (23209-62030) and the JDM engine has the brown ones (23250-62040).

Internet info seems hit and miss on if you can swap, also lots of speculation about JDM parts being different even if they look the same ect...

Even more confusion calling the brown ones “2 hole” and the grey ones “4 hole”.

My observations about the JDM brown ones after having serviced and function tested them.
They have the PN on them. 23250-62040
The pintle cap has 2 holes but the injector has 4 holes. They spray in pairs through the holes in the pintle cap.

My observations of the grey ones.
They have a metal 4 hole pintle cap (maybe not removable). 2 of the holes have bottoms and I suspect they are for a spanner to screw on the pintle cap.
They have 2 injector holes inside the cap.

I tested resistance on all 12 injectors with a DVM. Injectors at ambient (~45) all read 12.8 -13.0 ohms.

Engine fired right up and smoked for a bit but purred like a kitten. No codes, no check engine light.

 

[Black798]

The grey and brown are the same. The brown was just used starting in 1999. The grey ones were used prior to that and are a 2 nozzel air assist style injector. The 2 extra holes are just blind holes they don't have any use. The browns are also an air assist style but it's the never version that allegedly operates quieter

 

[Dieselchessy]

I don’t think “same” is the correct word,
Interchangeable (as a set) would be better.
They have noticeable physical differences, and perhaps even performance differences.
I believe the design concept is that 4 small holes would provide better fuel atomization and better burn than 2 big holes providing the same fuel volume.

If the theory proves out, the brown injectors should have better performance.
But internet chatter would imply they also have a higher fail rate.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Make sure the two sets of injectors are the same resistance.

If the connector is identical between the two there is a good chance but ohm them out. You can’t put low impedance injectors on a ECU designed to run high impedance.


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[BoomerBob]

Make sure the two sets of injectors are the same resistance.

If the connector is identical between the two there is a good chance but ohm them out. You can’t put low impedance injectors on a ECU designed to run high impedance.

Pretty sure they are all supposed to match. Something they are supposed to do when rebuilding a set.

 

[gamefreakgc]

You've got a sharp eye. The JDM "brown" injectors are in fact different than the "brown" injectors found in 99-02 4Runners, assuming you got your 5VZ-FE from a Toyota Hiace and not another 4Runner (you can tell by the upper manifold & pulleys if you did). The base is larger and the body is a bit different but they do have the same flow characteristics and the same impedance, being high resistance injectors. They fit in both the intake manifold and the fuel rail just fine too.

Both will work on your engine just fine.

 

[Dieselchessy]

You've got a sharp eye. The JDM "brown" injectors are in fact different than the "brown" injectors found in 99-02 4Runners, assuming you got your 5VZ-FE from a Toyota Hiace and not another 4Runner (you can tell by the upper manifold & pulleys if you did). The base is larger and the body is a bit different but they do have the same flow characteristics and the same impedance, being high resistance injectors. They fit in both the intake manifold and the fuel rail just fine too.

Both will work on your engine just fine.

I wasn't discussing the difference between 23250-62040 and 23209-62040. I'm discussing the differences between 62040 and 62030. The Brown mostly plastic injectors and the Grey with metal base exterior injectors.

The JDM motor I purchased had different exhaust manifolds, throttle body, some vacuum lines, intake expansion chamber, MAF sensor, motor mount towers, AC pump bracket, heater lines, alternator pulley, main crank pulley, oil pan, oil pickup, wire harness and ECU, and some other odds and ends.

Several parts appear to be the same or interchangeable; starter, intake manifolds, power steering pump, ignition coils, plastic timing covers, alternator bracket, radiator fan support, alternator seems usable as is (not sure you could exchange the pulley), injectors, fuel rails, exhaust manifold cover(s), and lots of plastic clips, bolts and nuts, wire loom brackets, hose clamps, a full set of engine harness connectors, ect.....
Plus they don't want your core, so I have an entire engine that I can now rebuild at my leisure.

Kind of an unexpected windfall. Prior to purchase I hadn't considered the extra's that would come with the JDM motor.

 

[VernySanders]

The grey and brown are the same. The brown was just used starting in 1999. The grey ones were used prior to that and are a 2 nozzel air assist style injector. The 2 extra holes are just blind holes they don't have any use. The browns are also an air assist style but it's the never version that allegedly operates quieter

I second this. My 2000 non jdm has brown Injectors and I pulled a set of brown injectors out of another non jdm and had them cleaned and flow tested and they work great. Never knew there were grey ones

 

[Dieselchessy]

For the 3rd Gens; 96 - 98-ish used 23209-62030. Its a grey injector.
99-02 they switched to 23209-62040. Its a brown injector.

23250-62030 and 23250-62040 seem to be alternate part numbers, but they only seem to show up in the aftermarket and JDM.

All data seems to indicate they are "interchangeable".

 

[HugeFatChick]

I’m doing the same thing on my 97 and I just flat out stuck with what came off of my original engine just to be safe. Hopefully going to drop it in tomorrow Also

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[Dieselchessy]

Looks good. Looks like your missing the heat shield above the alternator. Your 97 has a few different parts on the back drives side than my 98.
I connected the oil cooler water lines before I installed the manifold and alternator. Just worked my way from the bottom up. Lots of room to work that way.

I used the JDM knock sensors, crank sensor, and injectors.
I replaced the knock sensor loom and cam sensor cause the clip that holds it to the cover broke.

The knock sensors would be the worst to replace, the injectors and crank sensor are fairly easy.

Did you grind your AC bracket so it’s easy to remove the timing belt tensioner in the future?

 

[gamefreakgc]

I’m doing the same thing on my 97 and I just flat out stuck with what came off of my original engine just to be safe. Hopefully going to drop it in tomorrow Also [


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Just a tip, it's easier to put the engine back in with the fan not installed. The blades will hang up on stuff when you lower the engine in since it likes to tilt backwards a bit. It's very easy to install once in the engine, just those four little nuts. Gives you about 3" more space to work with when mating it up to the transmission.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Just a tip, it's easier to put the engine back in with the fan not installed. The blades will hang up on stuff when you lower the engine in since it likes to tilt backwards a bit. It's very easy to install once in the engine, just those four little nuts. Gives you about 3" more space to work with when mating it up to the transmission.

I was going to say something about putting the fan and ALT on after it’s in.


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[HugeFatChick]

Just a tip, it's easier to put the engine back in with the fan not installed. The blades will hang up on stuff when you lower the engine in since it likes to tilt backwards a bit. It's very easy to install once in the engine, just those four little nuts. Gives you about 3" more space to work with when mating it up to the transmission.

I just have it keeping the Pullys on the engine for now just to keep track of them, the shops chaos right now


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[19963.4lsr5]

Looks good. Looks like your missing the heat shield above the alternator. Your 97 has a few different parts on the back drives side than my 98.

I connected the oil cooler water lines before I installed the manifold and alternator. Just worked my way from the bottom up. Lots of room to work that way.



I used the JDM knock sensors, crank sensor, and injectors.

I replaced the knock sensor loom and cam sensor cause the clip that holds it to the cover broke.



The knock sensors would be the worst to replace, the injectors and crank sensor are fairly easy.



Did you grind your AC bracket so it’s easy to remove the timing belt tensioner in the future?

Heat shield for the alternator?

Please show a picture. A 96 and two 97’s and I’ve not run across a heatshield


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[Dieselchessy]

I don’t think it’s for the alternator, just above it. Seems to be for the wire loom that comes across there for the alternator, front axle, crank position sensor, transmission.

It’s just below the oil fill cap. Where you have 2 threaded holes that are empty on the side of the head.

This site has a picture that shows it.

Toyota 3.4L 5VZ FE Engine Specs, Problems, Supercharger

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I don’t think it’s for the alternator, just above it. Seems to be for the wire loom that comes across there for the alternator, front axle, crank position sensor, transmission.



It’s just below the oil fill cap. Where you have 2 threaded holes that are empty on the side of the head.



This site has a picture that shows it.



Toyota 3.4L 5VZ FE Engine Specs, Problems, Supercharger

I have that, I thought that was an oil shield for Drips and poor aim.


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[gamefreakgc]

Heat shield for the alternator?

Please show a picture. A 96 and two 97’s and I’ve not run across a heatshield


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It's not a heat shield, it's the drip shield that goes right under the oil filler cap so if you miss with a can of oil it doesn't drip right into your alternator motor.

 

[Dieselchessy]

That may well be its purpose, but the ones on my engines are such that they would pretty much direct any oil drips right into the alternator. And they do.
If that plate was gone the drips would fall down between the alternator and the head.

 

[Dieselchessy]

To close out this thread.

Engine fired right up, smoked for a bit but I had lubed the cylinders so that was expected. Purred like a kitten. Ran it for several miles now, no codes, no engine light.

So at least in my case the JDM injectors work as expected.