3rd gen gas gauge issue

[ATX4Yota]

I have an '02 Limited 2WD that just hit 260k. I haven't done anything to the truck in the last year other than oil changes, plugs/wires and replacing driveshaft u-joints. Haven't towed anything or been off-road.

About a week ago, I started the truck one morning and immediately noticed the low fuel light on and the fuel gauge didn't move from before starting. I probably had just over 1/2 a tank when starting the truck the previous evening and didn't drive anywhere near far enough to empty the tank. I drove to the gas station and put $15 (about 6 gallons) in the tank. The fuel gauge moved to just under 3/4 tank, which it wouldn't do if it was previously empty.

While driving, the gauge seems to be operating normally for the distances I'm driving. However, when I start the truck in the mornings, the gauge is always way below the level it should be. As I start driving, the gauge makes an very slow climb to where I think the level should be...usually takes about 5 minutes. I always let the truck warm up before I start driving.

I've read a few threads concerning fuel gauge issues but none really describe the issue I'm having. Any help would be greatly appreciated...

 

[Toyotayoda]

there is a small harness in the tank that could be the problem, you could do a resistance test of the sending unit before and after the harness to verify, but at the age and mileage I would consider if the gauge itself is the problem, maybe an Ebay, or junkyard part is the solution

 

[SeaDug]

I've had the same issue on a 2002 with 230k.

 

[JWaldz]

[MENTION=136324]ATX4Yota[/MENTION]

It's a common issue, especially in the '99-'02 4Runners. My gauge did the same thing yours is doing and eventually all together quit working. It hasn't worked for years. There's a lot of literature out there regarding this issue. Do some googling!

 

[bowrappyo]

I have an '02 Limited 2WD that just hit 260k. I haven't done anything to the truck in the last year other than oil changes, plugs/wires and replacing driveshaft u-joints. Haven't towed anything or been off-road.

About a week ago, I started the truck one morning and immediately noticed the low fuel light on and the fuel gauge didn't move from before starting. I probably had just over 1/2 a tank when starting the truck the previous evening and didn't drive anywhere near far enough to empty the tank. I drove to the gas station and put $15 (about 6 gallons) in the tank. The fuel gauge moved to just under 3/4 tank, which it wouldn't do if it was previously empty.

While driving, the gauge seems to be operating normally for the distances I'm driving. However, when I start the truck in the mornings, the gauge is always way below the level it should be. As I start driving, the gauge makes an very slow climb to where I think the level should be...usually takes about 5 minutes. I always let the truck warm up before I start driving.

I've read a few threads concerning fuel gauge issues but none really describe the issue I'm having. Any help would be greatly appreciated...

Hey yeah. I am having the same issue. Some times it even comes back from the dead!

What I have learned is that it is a whole process to fix. There was a TSB about it.

Check that out here: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/1719005-post9.html

FWIW, I just run mine off miles now around 250 or so to keep it safe

 

[gamefreakgc]

Hey yeah. I am having the same issue. Some times it even comes back from the dead!

What I have learned is that it is a whole process to fix. There was a TSB about it.

Check that out here: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/1719005-post9.html

FWIW, I just run mine off miles now around 250 or so to keep it safe

Up here in NorCal they changed the fuel blend a few years back and knocked about 1.5 MPG's off my 4Runner! They have a minimum ethanol content now, just a heads up. I went from 300 miles to a tank if I completely emptied it, to just over 250 miles. Too scared to run it past 250 since the fuel change, it really starts to drop off quickly.

 

[MaineRunna]

It could be the gauge, but try to isolate it by unplugging the fuel pump under the back seat. You could check the resistance on the fuel gauge signal terminal coming out of the pump to see if its the fuel sender.

 

[Mudeprived]

250 is summer, 220 in winter.


Thats when I get gas. Fuel gauge on my truck is wack and not worth repairing.

 

[Temple90]

I have a similar issue that just started this week. Turn it on and guage goes to full. Start driving and it goes to empty. Not sure if I even want to get it fixed or not at this point.

 

[FD7683]

Mine just started dong this. Any advice on how to fix it? My orange light turned on twice - first in the gas station and 2nd time at the car wash when I fired it up again. This happens below half a tank of gas and I have a 2000 with 226k.

 

[Vansnxtweek]

Ugh mine has just started acting erratic as well.

 

[Ron Burgandy]

there was a guy that grounded out one of the wires coming off the fuel pump that fixed his problem. on youtube somewhere


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Outrider]

there was a guy that grounded out one of the wires coming off the fuel pump that fixed his problem. on youtube somewhere


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Here it is:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNbMq7VvpdI

I did that yesterday, and after 2 or 3 fuel tanks, I will know if it accomplished anything. I don't drive mine that often, so 2 or 3 tanks will take a while. Sometimes my gauge works fine, sometimes it is a little flakey, and sometimes it goes full retard. Recently, my engine has died twice while the gauge showed 3/8 tank. I had intended to fill it up soon both times, and was actually on my way to do so, when it died. Fortunately, I was able to limp/coast to a fuel pump both times. I now know that at 300 miles, I must start looking for a gas station, because mine will die between 325-375 miles, unless the whole tank was on interstate and 65 mph or under.

I also re-calibrated my gauge after adding the ground wire. Not sure if that was needed, but figured it wouldn't hurt. I used this method:

EL010-99 Toyota Technical Service Bulletin

Once I know whether or not the ground wire fixed my problem, I intend to report back here on that. I do know that I would have been way past furious if I had pulled my fuel tank and replaced the sender unit, only to have the gauge problem persist. Adding the wire cost me nothing, except about 20 minutes of time, since I already had the wire, splice connector, lug, star washer and self-tapping sheet metal screw.

 

[Mudeprived]

Here it is:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNbMq7VvpdI

I did that yesterday, and after 2 or 3 fuel tanks, I will know if it accomplished anything. I don't drive mine that often, so 2 or 3 tanks will take a while. Sometimes my gauge works fine, sometimes it is a little flakey, and sometimes it goes full retard. Recently, my engine has died twice while the gauge showed 3/8 tank. I had intended to fill it up soon both times, and was actually on my way to do so, when it died. Fortunately, I was able to limp/coast to a fuel pump both times. I now know that at 300 miles, I must start looking for a gas station, because mine will die between 325-375 miles, unless the whole tank was on interstate and 65 mph or under.

I also re-calibrated my gauge after adding the ground wire. Not sure if that was needed, but figured it wouldn't hurt. I used this method:

EL010-99 Toyota Technical Service Bulletin

Once I know whether or not the ground wire fixed my problem, I intend to report back here on that. I do know that I would have been way past furious if I had pulled my fuel tank and replaced the sender unit, only to have the gauge problem persist. Adding the wire cost me nothing, except about 20 minutes of time, since I already had the wire, splice connector, lug, star washer and self-tapping sheet metal screw.

I would love to get that kind of mileage. I have to fill up by 240 miles or it runs dry.

My gauge has been in full retard mode the past month or so, dropping to E and flashing when it feels like it. I had it in for inspection two years ago and the mechanic said it was the gauge when I asked about it. At that time it was just reading Full to Half. He offered to fix it but I declined and just followed the miles.

 

[FD7683]

I hope splicing the ground on mine will fix the issue because my truck was severely sputtering today and the gauge showed to be around 3/4th of gas and no orange light. I know it had zero gas on the tank - it's kinda a shame my VIN is included in the TSB.

 

[Outrider]

I hope splicing the ground on mine will fix the issue because my truck was severely sputtering today and the gauge showed to be around 3/4th of gas and no orange light. I know it had zero gas on the tank - it's kinda a shame my VIN is included in the TSB.

Definitely worth the effort and very small cost. If it doesn't, then you only lost maybe a half hour and a few bucks. Mine seems to have fixed my problem, as my gauge has been acting perfectly normally for about 3 tanks now.

 

[gamefreakgc]

I hope splicing the ground on mine will fix the issue because my truck was severely sputtering today and the gauge showed to be around 3/4th of gas and no orange light. I know it had zero gas on the tank - it's kinda a shame my VIN is included in the TSB.

I've learned to use the trip odometer religiously every time I fill up the tank. At 230 miles I know to go find a gas station. By 280 I know I'm pushing my luck and might run out at any moment. Mine does the opposite and the needle falls pegged to E with the light on when I still have 6 gallons left, or 1/3 tank.

 

[Mudeprived]

I've learned to use the trip odometer religiously every time I fill up the tank. At 230 miles I know to go find a gas station. By 280 I know I'm pushing my luck and might run out at any moment. Mine does the opposite and the needle falls pegged to E with the light on when I still have 6 gallons left, or 1/3 tank.

230 is when I fill her up too. Funny thing is the gauge has changed it's manners the last two months. It drops to E and light flashes when I fill it up and stays this way till I hit 40 miles then it kicks back up to full. Same behavior every time I fill up. I find this to be strange.

 

[FD7683]

Definitely worth the effort and very small cost. If it doesn't, then you only lost maybe a half hour and a few bucks. Mine seems to have fixed my problem, as my gauge has been acting perfectly normally for about 3 tanks now.

I spliced it today and added a new ground. Only time will tell if it fixed it :/

 

[Outrider]

Update

Having gone well over a month and 5-6 fuel tanks, with a fuel gauge that acts perfectly normal, I can now say with confidence that the ground wire fix corrected my problem.

I am glad that I can now trust my gauge instead of my watching my odometer, to know when to re-fuel.

I am extremely glad that I did not drop my fuel tank and replace an expensive part that was actually working just fine. I would have been extremely pissed had I done that, and the problem persisted.

If your gauge flakes out on you even just occasionally, do yourself a favor and invest maybe $5 and a half hour of your time, and there is a good chance that your problem will go away. If it doesn't, then you didn't lose much at all.

Always try the easiest and simplest things first!

On a related note, I have learned that things are very often not what they seem. For years, I just knew that I had a defective fuel sending unit, and being a lazy tightwad, I just sucked it up and lived with the problem (while running out of gas several times).

Another time, based on symptoms, and my questions answered here, I just knew that I had a blown head gasket. I did one final test and determined that I didn't have one, and then found that I had a faulty fuel injector instead. Imagine how extremely pissed I would have been, had I paid $1,500 - $2,500 to have the head gaskets replaced (with the necessary related work), or replaced them myself, and the symptoms still persisted.