3rd gen lifespan

yeah, me too. If, as a service provider, you can know your customers intimately, you can manage them, adjust their bahavior in your favor, and extract an awful lot of money from them.

This is just the tip of the iceberg, in plain public view: http://cs229.stanford.edu/proj2013/DriverIdentification.pdf > "accurate insurance pricing"

Now I'm thinking about a 1st gen T4R...

This part of your link is complete BS.--"V. Conclusion"--

Can I not purchase a car with my own hard earned cash and it be mine?! I freaking bought it, you didn't help fork over the cash for it..Get out of the electronics overseer---
 
The key to used vehicle longevity in my opinion is this...as soon as a mechanical issue, or scratch or dent or rust starts to form, you fix it right away. You get some oil seeping from a seal-don't wait until its puking oil, fix it now. Clearcoat on hood starting to peel-don't let it go-fix it. Seat has a tear in it-don't put a cover over it-get the seat fixed. Everything that is in good shape-be proactive to keep it in good shape. Keep the paint waxed, put good oil in grease and coolant in everything. Yea letting things go may seem more economical, but in reality its not. When you let the oil leaks or mechanicals go until they are puking or totally shot, let the body fall apart till it looks like total crap, and let the interior go until its a total nightmare to sit in-well guess what? Now the you have a truck thats worth 500 bucks, which you will sell because you can't afford to drop 10k to have everything fixed, and you will go out and get a loan to buy a newer vehicle that takes more expensive insurance and put you in debt by the 10s of thousands. All because you put all repairs aside until the whole truck is a complete mess.
 
The key to used vehicle longevity in my opinion is this...as soon as a mechanical issue, or scratch or dent or rust starts to form, you fix it right away. You get some oil seeping from a seal-don't wait until its puking oil, fix it now. Clearcoat on hood starting to peel-don't let it go-fix it. Seat has a tear in it-don't put a cover over it-get the seat fixed. Everything that is in good shape-be proactive to keep it in good shape. Keep the paint waxed, put good oil in grease and coolant in everything. Yea letting things go may seem more economical, but in reality its not. When you let the oil leaks or mechanicals go until they are puking or totally shot, let the body fall apart till it looks like total crap, and let the interior go until its a total nightmare to sit in-well guess what? Now the you have a truck thats worth 500 bucks, which you will sell because you can't afford to drop 10k to have everything fixed, and you will go out and get a loan to buy a newer vehicle that takes more expensive insurance and put you in debt by the 10s of thousands. All because you put all repairs aside until the whole truck is a complete mess.

Your post just gave me anxiety. I have an A/C leak and multiple cosmetic things to fix on my truck (including a teared set) and I am a poor college kid. lol
 
My runner has 304K miles on it, 3RZ. Just did a compression test and it came out 180 160 160 180.

20 PSI drop seems like a little to much in the middle two cylinders, was told it could be the head gasket starting to fail. Any thoughts? I've done a block test no combustion fumes in coolant, no oil coolant mix, runs good still. I was gonna start my own thread but it won't let me since I'm a new member.
 
Mine had similar readings when I bought it and ended up needing a valve job. It eventually got bad enough it was throwing CEL codes.
 
Rust is the worst enemy for 90's cars. The cheapest and best way to insure a long term viability of a 3rd gen is to grease rust proof it every year IMO. The rest will be fixable for long, it just might involve investing some money.

Up here in Canada, several of our provinces use road salt/chemicals to melt winter ice, to reduce accidents.
- in S/W Ontario, we are not called a "rust-belt", for nothing
So between 300-450 Km is about tops, for many quality vehicles / or equivalent to 186-280,000 miles
- fewer Northern owners, can keep a high mileage/15 year old vehicle on the road, usually rust eats the frames/floor pans/brakes & fuel lines/door bottoms/quarter panel lips/bumper rot, etc.
So many cars at about 150,000 miles get scrapped, due to sheet metal cancer / while the engines still run fine.

I got my rare (rust free) 2000 4Runner SR5 4x4, in January / one owner, low miles, dealer maintained, garage kept.
It got wax-oil spray undercoated entirely / first few days of ownership.
- approx. 1 gallon, sprayed inside every nook & cranny, from entire undercarriage to inside doors & rockers
- good rust proofing needs to be a annual application
Only way to keep a 15 year old T4R on the road for another 15-20 years.
- my Gen3 is currently at 83,000 miles / or 133,600 Km

My 2000 4runner is the best vehicle I've owned / only wished it had the newer 3.5L v6 (269 HP).
- the styling is timeless
Now my wife's ride is a 2008 RAV4 Limited v6, with low speed 4x4.
- this one is for daily work & family rides
- it accelerates like a 60's muscle car, another Gen3 we plan to keep for several more years
Amenities are nicer / leather, moon roof, dual climate control, shorter wheel base, more nimble, much better on gas, etc.
^^ While the wife's ride may eventually get upgraged to a newer v6 Highlander or used Lexus RX350 / Dad will always be happy to keep his old 4Runner, for a few more decades.
 

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While we're on the topic of rust - would you guys consider buying a truck that was in need of frame repair from rust?
 
While we're on the topic of rust - would you guys consider buying a truck that was in need of frame repair from rust?

Nobody can make that call without more detailed info./photos...every provincial MTO regulations, are different.
- ON. just tightened up their Safety Checks, starting in July 2016
- frame repairs make certification much tougher
I've owned 2 salvaged vehicles for 8 years each / any vehicle has to be fully evaluated, on its own.
- no hard & fast answer, to your question
 
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Nobody can make that call without more info./photos.
- ON. just tightened up their Safety Checks, starting in July 2016
- frame repairs make certification tougher
I've owned 2 salvaged vehicles for 8 years each / any vehicle has to be fully evaluated, on its own.
- no hard & fast answer, to your question

Luckily I'm in NB so inspections are a little more lenient, I'd say.
I wish I could get some more pictures from this guy but it seems as though he has no idea what he's dealing with or the extent of the repair. It's looking like some mechanic told him that his frame needed to be patched last inspection and he parked it. However.. I may be looking at potentially getting a 3rd gen for around $500.
 
Luckily I'm in NB so inspections are a little more lenient, I'd say.
I wish I could get some more pictures from this guy but it seems as though he has no idea what he's dealing with or the extent of the repair. It's looking like some mechanic told him that his frame needed to be patched last inspection and he parked it. However.. I may be looking at potentially getting a 3rd gen for around $500.

Gen3 @ $500 = well worth a look, good luck !!
 
The key to used vehicle longevity in my opinion is this...as soon as a mechanical issue, or scratch or dent or rust starts to form, you fix it right away. You get some oil seeping from a seal-don't wait until its puking oil, fix it now. Clearcoat on hood starting to peel-don't let it go-fix it. Seat has a tear in it-don't put a cover over it-get the seat fixed. Everything that is in good shape-be proactive to keep it in good shape. Keep the paint waxed, put good oil in grease and coolant in everything. Yea letting things go may seem more economical, but in reality its not. When you let the oil leaks or mechanicals go until they are puking or totally shot, let the body fall apart till it looks like total crap, and let the interior go until its a total nightmare to sit in-well guess what? Now the you have a truck thats worth 500 bucks, which you will sell because you can't afford to drop 10k to have everything fixed, and you will go out and get a loan to buy a newer vehicle that takes more expensive insurance and put you in debt by the 10s of thousands. All because you put all repairs aside until the whole truck is a complete mess.

That's all actually really good advice, and is exactly the advice I just gave my best friend. I told him "I let my last 4Runner go, and regretted it when it came time to get rid of it. I promised myself I would never let that happen again."
So far, so good, the current T4R is in great shape.
 
I'm new to the forum and figure this is the correct place to ask this what is the life expectancy of a 1996 transmission assuming correct maintenance? Forever? I ask because I found what I think is a good deal but the transmission and transfer case have 325k miles.

Thanks in advance
 
This thread makes me sad. I think the 3rd gen is the most perfect vehicle for me. As you can see I also have a 4th gen that I like a lot less. Why does Toyota have to continue to make them bigger and bloated? Why don't they have a comparable small SUV. The RAV 4 is TOO small. If they still made the 3rd gen I would have purchased one new in August. My son was leaving for college and we had to disown his 2000 Tacoma so I traded it for a 2016 Tacoma 4Dr and gave him the 2000 4Runner. He was just home for the weekend and we polished his 4Runner together. I miss them both, here he is in the 1997 4Runner I bought when he was born. It got wrecked so I got the 2000:

 

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