3rd Gen T4R DIY Maintenance, Repair and Modification Videos
- Thread starter mtbtim
- Start date
dcskyline
New member
Just wanted to say thanks to Tim and Crew for putting out these videos!!
Finally tackled my transmission drain and fill last weekend. Followed the video to a tee down to the bucket.
All in all, one of the most satisfying jobs I've done on the Runner since inheriting it from my dad. Transmission temps now run a cool 160F.
Finally tackled my transmission drain and fill last weekend. Followed the video to a tee down to the bucket.
All in all, one of the most satisfying jobs I've done on the Runner since inheriting it from my dad. Transmission temps now run a cool 160F.
StreetCreeper
New member
Nice! I haven't watched them yet and I don't need to swap a transmission (thankfully), but I enjoy all the videos you and Sean put out so I'll be watching these as well just for the knowledge gained.
Keep the videos coming!
mtbtim
Elite Member
After all that labor, there was some serious finger crossing on my part that everything was going to work out and we didn't make any mistakes. I had previous experience removing manual transmissions on a couple different vehicles but this was the 1st auto transmission job.
This is a big job but a very doable job for a DIY mechanic. Sean and I took our time and bagged and tagged all the different bolts and nuts we took off the rig so we wouldn't be confused on the reinstallation and wouldn't have any left over parts that left us scratching our heads where they went. Sean also snapped photos of different things like where all the electrical connection brackets are affixed to the transmission and transfer case so we wouldn't forget where they went.
We had help on the final day from [MENTION=47794]Aznwolf118[/MENTION] (aka Choy), who's definitely a experienced at wrenching, and he was a big help with getting the transfer case, cross members and driveshafts back in.
So, we're seriously hoping this video series will encourage many DIY mechanics to tackle this job and save themselves a ton of money.
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I get marking bolt when you take it off (either with a marker or tape), but how are you marking the hole/thread it goes into, multiplied by many nuts/bolts?
mtbtim
Elite Member
When you have multiple fasteners for something, let's say the bell housing bolts, you can draw a template of the bell housing on a piece of cardboard and then stick the bolts into the cardboard where the bolts are suppose to go. You could do the same with a piece of paper and just tape the bolts and nuts on the template you create to remind you where they all go. So, you're not marking the female threads for bolts or the studs for nuts. You're just using a template to remind you where they go. Luckily, Toyota used the same bolt for all the bell housing bolts and the same bolt for all the transfer case bolts. The torque converter to flex plate bolts are all the same, the starter bolts are both the same, the cross member bolts and nuts are all the same, the shifter bolts are all the same, so Toyota made things very easy on our rigs. Now, with other vehicles, like my girlfriend's BMW Z3, the bell housing bolts were different and we had to remember where they went. Pulling the transmission on one of our rigs was wayyyyy easier than pulling the transmission on that Z3.
mtbtim
Elite Member
Wheel Lug Nut Stud Replacement
Hey Dudes,
[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I have another video for you. I helped [MENTION=94292]Patriot12[/MENTION] (aka Paul) yesterday replace a broken wheel lug nut stud on this 5th Gen. Even though it was done on a 5th Gen, the technique we used would be the same for a 3rd Gen.
This is a pretty simple, non-mind-blowing video but maybe it will help somebody out who's dealing with a broken lug nut stud.
Heres' the video and Enjoy the Show!
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/IRYDIx6XfwQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Hey Dudes,
[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I have another video for you. I helped [MENTION=94292]Patriot12[/MENTION] (aka Paul) yesterday replace a broken wheel lug nut stud on this 5th Gen. Even though it was done on a 5th Gen, the technique we used would be the same for a 3rd Gen.
This is a pretty simple, non-mind-blowing video but maybe it will help somebody out who's dealing with a broken lug nut stud.
Heres' the video and Enjoy the Show!
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/IRYDIx6XfwQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
4runnerfevr
New member
Hey Tim, Do you have a video of how to replace the oil pan gasket on a 01 SR5 4Runner. Or do you know of one on utube that will help me?
mtbtim
Elite Member
Sorry, we haven't done a video for this yet and I don't know of one on YouTube but I haven't really searched either.
I do remember hearing it's a big job though. I think the front differential has to come out among other things. Wish I could help you out more.
Are you sure it's your oil pan leaking? Valve covers on our rigs are known to leak and the oil gets all over the underside of the engine. If you haven't done it already, clean up the underside of your engine really good with degreaser, spray it off with a power washer or use the spray gun at a coin-op car wash and then get a better look where the leak is originating from.
LittleCaesar
New member
Dang Tim, I would have thought the Dewalt would have broken those caliper bolts free. I have been able to break the ones on the 3rd gen off with continual impact but in reflection I may have put the jack underneath the caliper to support it.
Regardless, enjoy the 883. It saves lots of time and is small to get in tight areas.
With wheel studs, on some Dodge 3/4 ton and 1 ton gas and diesel trucks, in order to change out the rotors, one has to knock all the wheel studs out of the hub. Not fun. Next time my brother can find someone else to help him.
Keep the videos coming.
Regardless, enjoy the 883. It saves lots of time and is small to get in tight areas.
With wheel studs, on some Dodge 3/4 ton and 1 ton gas and diesel trucks, in order to change out the rotors, one has to knock all the wheel studs out of the hub. Not fun. Next time my brother can find someone else to help him.
Keep the videos coming.
mtbtim
Elite Member
I am liking the Dewalt 883 and I appreciate you turning me onto it. In all fairness to the 883, I didn't double check if the battery I was using had a full charge. Next time I'll double check to give the little guy maximum power to see what it can do. So far, I'm pretty impressed.
mtbtim
Elite Member
Steering Rack Guide Replacement
Hey Dudes,
[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I have another video for you. If you're steering response feels a little sloppy and you've ruled out other causes like worn steering rack bushings, worn out inner and outer tie rods, or slop in the steering shaft itself, maybe you're steering rack guide needs to be replaced.
Here's the video and Enjoy the Show!
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/r4Hhl225E8A" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Hey Dudes,
[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I have another video for you. If you're steering response feels a little sloppy and you've ruled out other causes like worn steering rack bushings, worn out inner and outer tie rods, or slop in the steering shaft itself, maybe you're steering rack guide needs to be replaced.
Here's the video and Enjoy the Show!
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/r4Hhl225E8A" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
weekendclimber
New member
I don't know about everyone else, but I kind of dread when you guys put new videos out. Now I want to replace my steering rack guide and ITRE's :yield:
Keep up the great work guys :tea:
Keep up the great work guys :tea:
sambishop
New member
Rear Main Seal
This video kind of goes along with Tim and Sean's transmission videos. I filmed the quick and easy little job of replacing the rear main seal. Enjoy.
<iframe width="853" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Yw40zyjMmv4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
This video kind of goes along with Tim and Sean's transmission videos. I filmed the quick and easy little job of replacing the rear main seal. Enjoy.
<iframe width="853" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Yw40zyjMmv4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
LittleCaesar
New member
Could Jordan tell a difference when he conducted a road test? This is one mod I haven't done.
mtbtim
Elite Member
Thanks for sharing this. In response to your question, why wouldn't somebody choose to replace this seal if they already have the transmission out, I'll give you a few reasons why Sean and I decided to pass on the replacement when replacing his transmission.
#1) You have to take off the flex plate to get to it and there have been reports that people have had multiple cracked flex plates after replacing their original flex plate. Now, maybe the reason why the flex plate cracked in the first place wasn't addressed like a worn crankshaft bearing but we decided we didn't want to mess with it because his seal showed no signs of leaking. Maybe the flex plate torquing sequence needs to be absolutely spot on so there are no extra vibrations that would cause it to crack. I guess what I'm trying to say is there was enough reports of cracking flex plates that we didn't want to risk it if his seal wasn't leaking.
#2) Just like you showed in your video to knock the new seal in, you need something with a very wide diameter to knock it in evenly. I don't have anything like that either. The technique you used is basically what you have to do if you don't have some sort of special tool or maybe a big enough pipe fitting to drive the seal in, but I probably would have opted to tap it in a little more gently going around the circumference using a brass drift and hammer to slowly and evenly seat the new seal in. So, since we would be taking out a seal that is doing it's job for a new seal that we can't necessarily guarantee we're going to be able to drive in properly, this was another reason why we opted to leave it alone, because maybe after we put everything back together, we find we now have a leaking rear main seal which would really suck.
#3) Sean only has 160,000 miles on his engine. We were also thinking that there's a very good chance he will never develop a rear main seal leak bad enough to force him to pull his transmission again. Now, if he had say 250,000+ miles on his rig and he was still planning on keeping it for a long time, replacing the rear main seal would have definitely been something to do.
Anyway, I figured I'd share our thought process on this because the way you sounded in your video you sort of imply you'd have to be pretty stupid to not replace it while you have the transmission out. Sometimes the smartest move you can make is leave shit alone. Like I quoted in our video, sometimes following the old saying, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" will keep you from cursing and throwing shit when you f*ck up.
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mtbtim
Elite Member
From Sean, I did hear he did have an improvement but I will mention him here [MENTION=148218]JZiggy[/MENTION] and hopefully he'll chime in with the report.
JZiggy
Senior Member
Great video guys, and thanks again for the help and motivation to get this project done!
Amazingly, I haven't even taken the 4Runner above 60mph yet. So far driving around town it feels great -- just a very, very slight increase in steering effort but it returns to center and feels totally normal. My hope is that at highway speeds it will help eliminate a shudder that comes and goes... I'll report back!! I'll also double check that the cap hasn't moved from the matchmarks after putting some miles on it.
MarkamisPrime
New member
3rd Gen Toyota 4runner DIY Videos
[MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION]
and I'll even let you do it on my rig.
She needs it bad
[MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION]
and I'll even let you do it on my rig.
She needs it bad
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