3rd gen upper rear shock mount rusted
- Thread starter jimiv
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Yes. I fixed mine. Toyota sells a replacement OEM Part. I went through the same issue. It's a lot of work to fix it. But it's doable. Ofcourse do both sides. If one side pushed through then the other will probably do the same. When you go to put in he new ones. Tap the drain hole bigger and slightly pitch it so it drains better. But you will need to clean if occasionally after wheeling. Dirt clogs it up.
I'm not uploading photos. Go through my build thread and you'll find plenty of info and photos. Page 12 or 13 I think.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/170655-koltlt-97-sr5-build-thread.html
I'm not uploading photos. Go through my build thread and you'll find plenty of info and photos. Page 12 or 13 I think.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/170655-koltlt-97-sr5-build-thread.html
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Scramble
New member
The whole piece is about 10"wX18"l & it welds to the frame & cross members.
I sanded mine down, drilled the drain hole larger, added a second drain hole, added 2 coat's of Eastwood rust converter & 2 coats of VHT Chassis paint. Mine wasnt rusted through yet. This pic is just one coat of Eastwood, the final product is still on my camera. Good Luck!
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I don't remember the part #. [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] helped me with those.
Believe me. You will have plenty of meat to weld on. Factory is welded through the top before the body is on. Now you'll have to do exactly like mine. Which is strong. After it got welded. I smeared fluid film in the tight cracks.
I had this issue too. I ended up getting a local shop to fab up some angle iron on the outside of the frame to mount the top of the shock for ~$100. It seems to work without any issues but I don't wheel the truck. I'll get some pictures on Monday. The truck is at the alignment shop at the moment.
What about rear right ? And i remember that one side was more expensive than the other side. And also, both brackets are slightly different. They are not identical!
Ifirefight
New member
Very nicely done. This will be an interesting thread to follow. If the OP has the skills and friends you do, it shouldn't be a problem. I'm retired from the auto body business now, but did it for 20 years. My first thought when I saw his pictures was, that's going to be a pain..it can obviously be done, just going to be a lot of work. Good luck Sir.
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Yes sir. Good friends, and some beer. Advice on grinding of the old welds. Cut into the weld with a cut of wheel carefully. Then use a air chisel to peel the weld bead of.
TheDurk
Elite Member
I know. I had it wrong for a few minutes. No one would ever know if you hadn't quoted me right away. Thanks.
Left is more expensive. Only Toyota knows why. Here is left:
https://parts.conicellitoyotaofconshohocken.com/oem-parts/toyota-support-bracket-5130235040/?c=aT04NDE0MTQwNSZyPWxheWVyXzI4
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Ifirefight
New member
Did you also pull the body off the frame to do the repair? Seems like the best way to do it..albeit a crap load more work. Looking at the OP pictures, it looks pretty rusty even in the surrounding areas. Hopefully he will have good metal to weld to. Again, good luck and keep us posted. I will be following this thread because I know personally how much work this kind of repair will take to do it right.
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No need to pull the body of. But yes, of you really want to try and refurbish the shock mounts. You'd need to pull the body of to get to the top of it. Which I think that's a lot of work for something like this. The OP has only few options. The easiest is do what I did. But OEM replacement. And cut it out. Modify it slightly and weld it in. It will be strong. Believe me! While your in there. You'll have a lot of room to clean up any rust and paint it. Before mine got welded. I painted the mounts with chassis saver. Then once it got welded. I painted the weld with it. Then put fluid film everywhere!
Scramble
New member
No, I was doing an e-locker axle housing swap & decided to attack the rust while I had room under there. I also have a 1" body lift so I was able to get sandpaper & wire brushes onto the top of the frame, shock mounts, crossmembers & paint with a brush. Everything else was wire wheeled.
I also did the under body because the spot welds & seams are starting to rust. I wire wheeled the loose rust & sprayed two coats of Eastwood Grey rust converter. You can see the before & after in the pic as I did 1 section at a time.
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[MENTION=7105]Scramble[/MENTION] I did the same thing. Cleaned it all up that needed and applied por15 with brush. Afterwards I applied fluid with with a brush in those little cracks. Highly recommend that. The grease will definitely repel water and keep it rust out if you cleaned it good.
No. Don't take this the wrong way. But it's stupid to do so. You have no shock basically. And if you continue to drive. It could punch through the body! The shock is attached to the axle. And the axle going up and down over bumps is pretty intense! Fix it. You could get this done in a weekend.
You need:
Grinder
Grinding wheels ALOT
Cutting wheels ALOT
Safety glasses.
OEM replacement part
Paint/rust preventatives
Fluid film
New shock hardware to refresh it
Welded ( or a friend with one )
I could be missing few things. But please don't drive it like this.
