3rd member swap question

[mmendelscfi]

I'm going to be doing a 3rd member swap from a donor runner to another.

I've reviewed most of the write-ups that are available and it looks fairly straightforward but because of the space available in my garage I may need to pull the 3rd member then move the donor car to make space for the one I am putting it in.

My question is whether I can push the rear wheels and and axles back in on the donor without the 3rd member in place and roll the car without damaging something?

I'm not clear if there is some type of support for the axle without the 3rd member in place.

Thanks

 

[Sean K.]

I'm going to be doing a 3rd member swap from a donor runner to another.

I've reviewed most of the write-ups that are available and it looks fairly straightforward but because of the space available in my garage I may need to pull the 3rd member then move the donor car to make space for the one I am putting it in.

My question is whether I can push the rear wheels and and axles back in on the donor without the 3rd member in place and roll the car without damaging something?

I'm not clear if there is some type of support for the axle without the 3rd member in place.


Thanks

Ya, you can roll it around like that. Just bolt the 4 bolts that hold the axles to the housing back on.

 

[nissanh]

Probably not

Ya, you can roll it around like that. Just bolt the 4 bolts that hold the axles to the housing back on.

The axle bearings will get twisted if you roll the truck without the 3rd member. Also the splines at the end of each axle will rub against the axle inner housing.


Without the side gears, the other end of the axle has no place to rest.

 

[Sean K.]

The axle bearings will get twisted if you roll the truck without the 3rd member. Also the splines at the end of each axle will rub against the axle inner housing.


Without the side gears, the other end of the axle has no place to rest.

No they won't. Explain how the bearings, in their races, are going to "twist". Yes, the shafts will free float in the center but there are sheetmetal "rings" that hold the shafts and keep them from flopping around and hitting the interior....and even if they did hit, who cares? They are hardened shafts...much harder than the sheetmetal housing and neither would be damaged.

 

[mmendelscfi]

Thanks for the info.

What I should do is clean out my garage / barn so I can sit them side by side.

But that is something I have been saying I should do for quite a few years now......

I appreciate the comments......

 

[Mark_BC]

What I should do is clean out my garage / barn.
But that is something I have been saying I should do for quite a few years now......

Me too... the rats don't mind.

 

[csp]

Why can't you just do the work outside of the garage on one and the other inside?

 

[mmendelscfi]

Why can't you just do the work outside of the garage on one and the other inside?

Good idea with just one teeny tiny issue........

The donor car is here but the driver is away until Thanksgiving break when we plan to do the swap.

In Upstate NY.

Inside definitely preferred.

Heated garage allows you to instantly feel your knuckles banging hard objects rather then having to wait for them to thaw out inside..

 

[mmendelscfi]

Well, I finally got underway with this. Seems like the best plans have a million ways to go off the rails.

I spent the afternoon pulling the 3rd member out of the donor car and have been following the guidance given in a couple of how-to's in this forum.

Was able to get the driveshaft disconnected but it took me a while. There always seems to be that "one bolt" that does not want to cooperate. 3 came right out but one took a bit of persuasion.

I also was able to get all but the two topmost nuts on the 3rd member pulled. they are pretty rusty so I am letting them soak overnight after dousing with PB blaster.

I used an electric impact driver to remove the rest but I am concerned with getting at the top two and potentially rounding them off.

My question if should I still stay with the impact driver with extension and swivel after the soak overnight? I'm starting to think I might have to grind them off.

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

Well, I finally got underway with this. Seems like the best plans have a million ways to go off the rails.

I spent the afternoon pulling the 3rd member out of the donor car and have been following the guidance given in a couple of how-to's in this forum.

Was able to get the driveshaft disconnected but it took me a while. There always seems to be that "one bolt" that does not want to cooperate. 3 came right out but one took a bit of persuasion.

I also was able to get all but the two topmost nuts on the 3rd member pulled. they are pretty rusty so I am letting them soak overnight after dousing with PB blaster.

I used an electric impact driver to remove the rest but I am concerned with getting at the top two and potentially rounding them off.

My question if should I still stay with the impact driver with extension and swivel after the soak overnight? I'm starting to think I might have to grind them off.

The top two? We are talking about the 4 nut and bolts that hold the rear of the DS to the pinion flange? Just jack up the rear and turn the DS so the nuts are down. A pair of ratcheting 12mmsis are perfect tools but good box end wrenchs (the longer the better) would work too.

 

[mmendelscfi]

The top two? We are talking about the 4 nut and bolts that hold the rear of the DS to the pinion flange? Just jack up the rear and turn the DS so the nuts are down. A pair of ratcheting 12mmsis are perfect tools but good box end wrenchs (the longer the better) would work too.

Sorry for the confusing post.

I actually I got all the nuts off of the driveshaft and that is detached. One did give me a hard time for some reason.

What I am having trouble getting on are the top 2 nuts on top of the 3rd member itself. The ones that hold it to the axle housing.

I may have to get a set of 6 point box end wrenches and see if I can get at them with those. The nuts are pretty rusty but I am thinking if they are in such poor shape that I can't get a grip on them I may be able to use something that would turn them and back the actual stud out of the axle housing.

Thanks

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

Sorry for the confusing post.

I actually I got all the nuts off of the driveshaft and that is detached. One did give me a hard time for some reason.

What I am having trouble getting on are the top 2 nuts on top of the 3rd member itself. The ones that hold it to the axle housing.

I may have to get a set of 6 point box end wrenches and see if I can get at them with those. The nuts are pretty rusty but I am thinking if they are in such poor shape that I can't get a grip on them I may be able to use something that would turn them and back the actual stud out of the axle housing.

Thanks

Oh I gotcha. Yea, those can be a real pain. Maybe a six point deep socket would work. When I took mine out, several of the studs came out with the nuts stuck on them. Maybe a little heat just to break the rust bond. If you have an Elocker then expect more fun separating the 3rd from the housing.

 

[Scramble]

You should have PB blasted everything a month ago when you planned this project. I usually spray WD40 the week before & then the night before I start on something. 6pt deep impact sockets work well for me. I also bought this bolt/nut extractor set over the summer for one nut I destroyed on my oil filter housing. Worked on the first shot.
9 Pc 3/8 in. Drive Metric Bolt Extractor Socket Set

 

[Toyotayoda]

Sorry for the confusing post.

I actually I got all the nuts off of the driveshaft and that is detached. One did give me a hard time for some reason.

What I am having trouble getting on are the top 2 nuts on top of the 3rd member itself. The ones that hold it to the axle housing.

I may have to get a set of 6 point box end wrenches and see if I can get at them with those. The nuts are pretty rusty but I am thinking if they are in such poor shape that I can't get a grip on them I may be able to use something that would turn them and back the actual stud out of the axle housing.

Thanks

Got any valve grinding compound around? putting some of that on the six point socket/wrench will help give grip for those rounded nuts and bolts.

 

[mmendelscfi]

You should have PB blasted everything a month ago when you planned this project. I usually spray WD40 the week before & then the night before I start on something. 6pt deep impact sockets work well for me. I also bought this bolt/nut extractor set over the summer for one nut I destroyed on my oil filter housing. Worked on the first shot.
9 Pc 3/8 in. Drive Metric Bolt Extractor Socket Set

The sad part is I did soak them with PB blaster about the time I started this thread. A couple of times as it was just sitting there. I think in this case I am asking a little much of PB blaster as the nuts are in very poor shape due to rust. One of them is actually hard to distinguish as a nut there is so much rust.

Thanks for the tip on the extractors. I think I was actually looking at this exact set online at HF last night. We have a local store and I think I have a coupon.

 

[mmendelscfi]

Got any valve grinding compound around? putting some of that on the six point socket/wrench will help give grip for those rounded nuts and bolts.

Thanks for the tip. I will pick some up today and see if that works in this case.

One of the nuts is in very poor shape in addition to being hard to get at.

Thanks again,