3rz coolant leak

C

Crowcifier6

New member
I've got a '98 4 cylinder automatic that was leaking coolant at the water pump gasket. I replaced the pump, gasket, radiator, and radiator hoses all in one shot in early December. Fast forward to yesterday, my heat is acting up and I'm down almost a gallon of coolant.

I haven't had time to pull the skid plate and look around, but anyone have any ideas where it may be leaking from now? Oil cooler maybe?

Any help is appreciated....
 
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Check the metal lines under the passenger side going to the rear heater. They look like fuel or brake lines but are actually coolant going to the rear heater. Those lines tend to rust and start leaking.
 
Thanks for the replies...

bwarren said:
Check the metal lines under the passenger side going to the rear heater. They look like fuel or brake lines but are actually coolant going to the rear heater. Those lines tend to rust and start leaking.
Click to expand...

I think this is my issue.... I saw something drip the other day but figured it was ice melt.
 
Went to my local dealer and priced out the part(s)$150....the two lines come as one part. And looks like they go way up into the front end. I asked about how much labor is involved and they started talking about removing exhaust to get at it....sounds like an expensive can of worms.

Has anyone replaced these lines? Is it a complicated job? Other option would be to potentially bypass the rear heater, as I don't use it, or have human passengers back there anyway. Anyone taken the rear heater out of the coolant loop?
 
phattyduck said:
Yes! In the rust belt, at least.

Loop the lines, cap 'em or replace the two hoses with the non-rear-heater version - your choice.

-Charlie
Click to expand...
Salty New Englanda here...bout a half inch of the white stuff all over the roads, and I don't mean snow.

Eliminating the lines altogether would be my choice or looping them with a less exposed line.....less chance of rusting out again. Any tips for this amateur grease monkey?

Where do the lines come out of?

Edit:

Quick search found this old thread regarding same issue.

Thanks for the help gents!
 
Last edited:
Napa sells little rubber caps for just this purpose. They were only a couple of dollars and the rear system is completely removed.

If you want to really get into it, the whole fan and mini rad assembly can be taken out from under the passenger seat but it's quite a bit of work.
 
I have done this "mod" twice now. 3rd gens are starting to drop like flies because of 3 issues: pink milkshake, lbj failure, and rusting coolant lines to the rear heater causing the engine to overheat and blow a head gasket. Sadly, all 3 are easily prevented.

I wouldn't loop the two lines together since that may starve pressure from the system as it is designed to go through the heater which will offer more resistance than a bypass loop. Caps would work. What I did was i took bolt cutters and snipped the lines up near the abs unit at the top of the engine bay. This will leave them pinched closed. Now take a welder and just seal them up and you're done.
 
I looked this afternoon....looks like the lines are just hose clamped on either end, and it “MIGHT” not be a big deal to just disconnect the brackets and fish the new part in....Am I under thinking this?


The leak is mid line, not up near heater, where I could see it being a headache

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Crowcifier6 said:
I looked this afternoon....looks like the lines are just hose clamped on either end, and it “MIGHT” not be a big deal to just disconnect the brackets and fish the new part in....Am I under thinking this?


The leak is mid line, not up near heater, where I could see it being a headache

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I just replaced these lines. You are under thinking it a bit. It's a bit of a pain. If I remember correctly, I had to remove one of my exhaust hangers and still "bend" the lines a little. I only flexed the lines to their limit. The new lines are stainless steel as opposed to some years which were regular carbon metal which definitely kept them from bending or kinking. Still have to be careful though. I got mine out through the wheel well. As I said it took a little pushing, pulling twisting, to get it out then I put it in the reverse way it came out. I also replaced the 2 hose on the bottom and the 2 hoses at the top and the bottom "guard" and all the nuts. The hoses on the bottom are bringing 2 different nipple sizes together so OEM hoses are probably the way to go if your replacing them. I don't think they cost that much either. I also got new clamps from Toyota. Nice thing about the new constant tension clamps (besides them being a perfect OEM fit) is they come with little holders on them that keep them open. Just put them in place using the marks on the OEM hoses and pop off the little holder and your done.

Now with all that being said, you can just bypass the rear heat system by looping or plugging the 2 lines coming over from the heater valve. If you don't use the rear heat (many don't) it certainly wont hurt anything.

I have my order list from Toyota somewhere if you want to know all the parts I bought.
 
JRZEE2000TR4LTD said:
I have my order list from Toyota somewhere if you want to know all the parts I bought.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tips.....sounds like I can handle it, rather than give the dealer the $600+ they quoted me. I found the hardline for $100 at a nearby dealership.

If you don't mind, I'll take you up on the part numbers for the 4rubber hoses on either side of the hard line, and the clamps. The heat shield/guard over the rear end looks to be in reasonable shape....previous owners kept it garaged. :D
 
I had this problem last spring and ended up disconnecting the rear heater and looping the line in the engine bay near the firewall.

Good luck with your replacement. You should post some pics of the job.
 
Crowcifier6 said:
Thanks for the tips.....sounds like I can handle it, rather than give the dealer the $600+ they quoted me. I found the hardline for $100 at a nearby dealership.

If you don't mind, I'll take you up on the part numbers for the 4rubber hoses on either side of the hard line, and the clamps. The heat shield/guard over the rear end looks to be in reasonable shape....previous owners kept it garaged. :D
Click to expand...

Your part #s were a little different on the 97 4banger

87245-35450 - hose
87425-35460 - hose
90467-14029 - clip (clamp) X2
96135-51400 - clip (clamp) x2
90179-06161 - nut (in case your are rusted) x3

TOYOTA 4RUNNERRZN180L-GKPSKA - ELECTRICAL - HEATING AIR CONDITIONING WATER PIPING | Japan Parts EU

I didn't replace the top hoses or clamps. Only replaced the bottom ones because I couldn't see them. They actually looked ok but for $9 and piece of mind, I'm OK with that. I actually broke the plastic clip that holds piping up top to the firewall and had to order it later. That part # is 87124-35110.
 
Thanks a million John.... That site looks like a great resource as well.

Going to get a parts order together and get the ball rollin.
 
JRZEE2000TR4LTD said:
Your part #s were a little different on the 97 4banger

87245-35450 - hose
87425-35460 - hose
90467-14029 - clip (clamp) X2
96135-51400 - clip (clamp) x2
90179-06161 - nut (in case your are rusted) x3

TOYOTA 4RUNNERRZN180L-GKPSKA - ELECTRICAL - HEATING AIR CONDITIONING WATER PIPING | Japan Parts EU

I didn't replace the top hoses or clamps. Only replaced the bottom ones because I couldn't see them. They actually looked ok but for $9 and piece of mind, I'm OK with that. I actually broke the plastic clip that holds piping up top to the firewall and had to order it later. That part # is 87124-35110.
Click to expand...


My runner is a 98, so I changed the year on the parts site you linked, and just ordered up the parts locally. Thanks again.
 
All put back together, no leaks.....took about 2 hours. It definitely wasn't a $600 job.

Worst part was one of the nuts was too corroded to get a socket on, so Hacksawed the bracket off and torched it.

New lines slid in from in front of the firewall under the hood, and didn't need much tweaking to line the brakes up with the studs (I did remove the exhaust hanger at the cat to ease in fitment).

FWIW the "clips" I ordered weren't hose clamps and I just re used the old ones. all the other parts were correct.


Thanks for everyone's help.
 
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