3VZE Code 14

[Walshe8]

1995 4 runner with 3VZE starts great cold but after getting hot it starts to shudder a little at idle. If I turn it off and let it hot soak for a while it will not start.

Tested Coil, distributor/pickup coil, injectors, fuel pressure...all perfect. The one thing I cannot figure out how to check (Chiltons doesn't help either) is the ignitor next to the coil.

I checked for stored codes and what do ya know, Code 14!! Since its the only thing I cannot test I am assuming that the coil gets weak when hot? Any chance you folks with experience could think its a bad wire somewhere or something that isn't insulated good that would cause this problem when hot? Or is this the what these ignitors do when they start to go bad?

Trying to save the money of a new ignitor if possible

 

[caspice]

Also plauged by Code 14

Do not have any good solid answers for the OP, but will detail my adventure with code 14.

I have been chasing down the cause of this code for weeks - unsuccessfully.

A little information about my T4R.
1990, 5 speed manual, 4 door, 4wd, with the "awesome" 3VZE:barf:
It has +/- 240,000.
Last year it received new timing belt kit, water pump, plugs, wires, cap/rotor, Coil, TPS, Fuel pump/filter, VSV for the Fuel regulator, new vacuum lines, Alternator, radiator hoses, accessory belts, oil pan gasket, cold start valve, exhaust from the manifolds out, ALL fluids replaced. Heads redone a few months ago...and a whole bunch of other money wasting bits.

My symptoms were random detonation and intermittent EGR fault.

I replaced the EGR modulator and valve. That cured the Code 71 but not the detonation issue.

I had the Code 71 prior to the heads being rebuilt, but not the Code 14.

Per the FSM on page EG2-175, Code 14 is an indication that the "IGF signal from igniter is not input to ECM for six (6) consecutive ignitions."
Trouble areas suspected are:
1. Open or Short in IGF or IGT circuit from the igniter to ECM.
2. Faulty Igniter.
3. Faulty ECM.

(reference page EG2-195).

I have verified that the IGF and IGT wiring is good.
Bought a new Igniter.
Same issue and still a Code 14.

Checked the wiring again. Still meters out good.
Ordered a replacement ECM (waiting...waiting....waiting...) it will be here at some point.

Got bored waiting and not being able to drive my T4R. Decided to go back through and start with the basics: Timing, Plugs, TPS adjustment, AFM, vacuum lines, and so forth.

Removed the cap off the distributor and the thing is drenched in oil. The pick-ups have a large groove cut into the tops of them. Pulled the distributor and the seals and shaft bearing are shot.

New distributor ordered and installed.

It runs better. Let it sit running at idle for a few minutes. Drove it around the block. Let it idle some more...and it stalled. Starts right back up, but after a short period of time (seconds to minutes) the idle with drop and bounce back - sometimes stalls....and then gives off a Code 14


Back to working through possible causes.

I did discover in this process that my brake booster has a slight vacuum leak, so that line is currently bypassed. Replacement on order.

If I install the diagnostic jumper it will sit and run at 800 rpm and be mostly happy. You can hear very slight little pops in the exhaust, but the RPM needle hardly moves.

Will have an update when the replacement ECM arrives.

Any suggestions appreciated.

 

[SomeInternetNobody]

My 95 3VZE had the same issue. My shop deduced that it was an egr fault of some sort and a faulty air temp sensor in the throttle body. I would try to find a shop that can diagnose OBD1 computers well. They replaced the throttle body and now it runs great.

 

[COMTB]

I had similar issues with mine after replacing the air filter. Apparently I disconnected a vacuum hose along the intake. It took some wiggling around with it running to find the issue but as I was going through getting everything seated correctly it started running better.

This happened when I checked it out at the dealership too, same exact thing. Checked the air filter and it wouldn't even turn over, reconnected the vacuum line and it purred like a kitten.

 

[cb7595]

Life saver, I replaced my air filter last weekend and my 4Runner wouldn't start. Ended up replacing cap and rotor still wouldn't start. Read your post, double checked I didn't detach anything when I replaced the air filter. Turns out the frickin' air intake broke loose causing Code 14. Must have changed that filter 100 times never had that happen before.