4.56 or 4.88's?

[MENTION=34852]crazydubman[/MENTION] Hey, thanks for your numbers. And yes, this does help a lot. It's much appreciated!

Have a question: were you that heavy before you changed gears? If so...what gas mileage were you getting with the 4.30's? Just wondering how the gear change effected your gas mileage?? Improved...stayed the same...or got worse? I've always heard that when you re-gear...you'll improve your gas mileage. Trying to see if its true?!? Anyway, as heavy as you are, I think your getting pretty decent mileage!

Thanks again for your input!
 
[MENTION=34852]crazydubman[/MENTION] Hey, thanks for your numbers. And yes, this does help a lot. It's much appreciated!

Have a question: were you that heavy before you changed gears? If so...what gas mileage were you getting with the 4.30's? Just wondering how the gear change effected your gas mileage?? Improved...stayed the same...or got worse? I've always heard that when you re-gear...you'll improve your gas mileage. Trying to see if its true?!? Anyway, as heavy as you are, I think your getting pretty decent mileage!

Thanks again for your input!

Actually I checked my RPMs at 70 (65 on speedo) on the way home today and it looks like i'm only spinning about 2500rpms.

I was at the same weight before the gears and it honestly didn't make much difference if any with mileage. I think I may have gained 10-15 miles to a tank if that. The main thing with the gears is that the motor wasn't being pushed as hard. Down shifting came sooner and with less pedal effort. RPM is at a spot, during normal highway driving, where the engine was in the power band so it wouldn't have to down shift as much either. Haven't really noticed too much difference offroad but im always slow and steady anyways.

Hope that helps ya out. :thumb3:
 
I have 4.30 gears with 285/75/16 and cruise 75 mph @ 2500rpm 80 mph is usually about 2700-2800rpms....At 65-75mph i'll average from 16-20mpg depending on traffic.

I just did a 80 mile trip a few minutes ago and my Mileage on my OBDII using Torque app showed 19.9mpg.
 
Actually I checked my RPMs at 70 (65 on speedo) on the way home today and it looks like i'm only spinning about 2500rpms.

I was at the same weight before the gears and it honestly didn't make much difference if any with mileage. I think I may have gained 10-15 miles to a tank if that. The main thing with the gears is that the motor wasn't being pushed as hard. Down shifting came sooner and with less pedal effort. RPM is at a spot, during normal highway driving, where the engine was in the power band so it wouldn't have to down shift as much either. Haven't really noticed too much difference offroad but im always slow and steady anyways.

Hope that helps ya out. :thumb3:

Todd,buddy...your my hero!!:hail:

Thanks for all your input. That's where I was hoping to be...around 2500 RPM's @ 70 MPH. I rarely drive over 70...so I'm really thinking 4.88's are going to be perfect for me.

Fuel mileage isn't a big issue with me as long as I stay close (+/- 1-2 mpg) were I'm at now. My big issue is to stop all the down shifting and gear hunting the transmission does when I hit a small hill. Not only is it annoying as all hell...but it's really hard on my trans!

I have 4.30 gears with 285/75/16 and cruise 75 mph @ 2500rpm 80 mph is usually about 2700-2800rpms....At 65-75mph i'll average from 16-20mpg depending on traffic.

I just did a 80 mile trip a few minutes ago and my Mileage on my OBDII using Torque app showed 19.9mpg.

Wow...that's awesome fuel mileage!! I haven't seen that kind of mileage since I put on my 33's!!
 
So I'm thinking I'm gonna go with 4.88's and then do the supercharger down the road and some point. I was wondering if I didn't do the East Coast Gear Supply Route how much would a regear cost? I was thinking around 1200 just for labor front and rear and then another 600 total for parts. Does 1800-2000 sound about right to you guys?
 
So I'm thinking I'm gonna go with 4.88's and then do the supercharger down the road and some point. I was wondering if I didn't do the East Coast Gear Supply Route how much would a regear cost? I was thinking around 1200 just for labor front and rear and then another 600 total for parts. Does 1800-2000 sound about right to you guys?

Wow...that sounds like a lot! $600 is about what I've been looking at for parts. Sorry, I can't really help out with the labor price, cause I do all my own work. But imho that sound pretty high to me?!?

When you do your re-gear...you'll have to let us know how much you spent? I'd be very interested to know...thanks!

Wish you to best of luck!
 
I just ordered 4.88s from Marlin crawler. for ring and pinions for both along with varying rebuild kits, plan on putting about 1000 into it shipped to your door. I found a local guy will set up this for around 150 apiece. better plan on 300 piece for your area.
 
So I'm thinking I'm gonna go with 4.88's and then do the supercharger down the road and some point. I was wondering if I didn't do the East Coast Gear Supply Route how much would a regear cost? I was thinking around 1200 just for labor front and rear and then another 600 total for parts. Does 1800-2000 sound about right to you guys?

When I was looking at pricing for my regear, parts alone for each diff was about $450-500. You have to remember, its a good idea to have the seals and bearings replaced when getting new gears. Master install kit is the most complete way to go. Then most shops will charge 250-300 to set up gears if you bring in a diff. so take $900-1000 for parts, $500-600 if you brought the diffs in. Then tack on another 2 hours for the rear and 3-4 hours for the front if you have the shop pull them. Even at a light shop rate of $80/hr you are still looking at between $4-500 in additional labor just for the ease of dropping off the car and picking it up done.

Then to top it off, you have to factor in changing the gear oil twice. once on initial then one time at about 500-1000 to remove the particulate from the break in period.

So to put it in realistic numbers for you to weigh your options:

- If you purchase the diffs with just a standard gear install complete through ECGS you are looking at $1240 + return shipping if you return your cores when complete

- If you do all the install work yourself, you can expect another $50-60 in gear oil for initial and drain and refill after.

- If you take your truck and the ECGS diffs to a shop and have them install them, you are looking at a minimum of an additional $400-500 in install costs.

- If you have a shop build the diffs, you are looking at more just because ECGS gets the parts so cheap and basically doesn't charge hardly anything to set of the gear sets. You would be looking at least $1850 to drop off the runner and tell the shop to just do the whole thing and source parts from their supplier.

I had purchased a "good to go, ready to run" geared rear diff. When looking it over after purchase, I noticed that the mesh pattern wasn't great and the gears looked to have been heated due to being ran low on oil but thought it would give it a shot. I installed it, topped it off with oil only to drive around the block and hear a whine.

Needless to say I pulled it back out, reinstalled my stock one and weighed my options.

I got the used diff for $300 from a friend who changed plans, who got it from a guy who needed the actuator, who got it from a shop who inspected it and sold it as good to go. None of the parties had installed it and ran it. Needless to say, there was no one owning up to the bad diff and I was gonna have to make the best of it.

I made a call to my local gear shop and explained that I would like to keep the labor on the west coast and help a shop out if they could match the price of buying a complete from ECGS and shipping costs to send the bad diff back for the core.

With the shop making nothing on the parts, for what I could get everything taken care of through ECGS, they would be making $25-50 bucks on labor. I ended up going with ECGS for the diff rebuild and all the install labor I did myself. Core value on the rear e locker diff through ECGS was $450 so that helped the decision toom and put 150 towards one of their diffs.

After that long winded way of explaining that ECGS was the best price around, it just goes to show that ECGS is not a bad way to go, even if you have a shop near you install the diffs. $ for $ it ended up being cheaper.

The front was purchased complete from Liny4runner and was in great shape. :clap2:

Even with getting my diffs used for great prices, (front has a trutrac) and doing my own work, I was still in to my regear for about $1500 + new front outer diff seals , oil (initial, top off of the front diff twice, and drain and fill rear after breakin, a tube of FIPG and a looong weekend of work. (3/16th thick Skids are a B***h to deal with and I have two peice wheel adapters to pull in order to get the front diff done so do it right the first time. I had to swap out a CV shaft and a driver side diff seal after everything was back together because a groove had formed on the shaft right where the new seal sat and it was leaking.)

Sorry for the rant but it explains what I went through and the things I looked at when making my decisions with the regear.
 
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Wow...that sounds like a lot! $600 is about what I've been looking at for parts. Sorry, I can't really help out with the labor price, cause I do all my own work. But imho that sound pretty high to me?!?

When you do your re-gear...you'll have to let us know how much you spent? I'd be very interested to know...thanks!

Wish you to best of luck!

Thats actually pretty accurate to be honest. Also, how are you finding front and rear gears, master install kits, oil and misc parts for 600 bucks?? Seems really cheap.

I just ordered 4.88s from Marlin crawler. for ring and pinions for both along with varying rebuild kits, plan on putting about 1000 into it shipped to your door. I found a local guy will set up this for around 150 apiece. better plan on 300 piece for your area.

Nice Scotty. Thats about what I was figuring on pricing for the hard parts.
 
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Thats actually pretty accurate to be honest. Also, how are you finding front and rear gears, master install kits, oil and misc parts for 600 bucks?? Seems really cheap.

Being a disabled vet...I don't have a lot of money. Therefore, I look around for discounts and ask for deals. I found front and rear install kits at Low Range Off Road for $100 each. Yeah, they're open boxes...but who cares. I also found a set of 4.88 front gears for $80 (the link is for 4.30, cause they don't have anymore 4.88) yes, there are used, but they assured be they are good and there isn't anything wrong with them! So for about $320 ($40 for oil an misc item) I have everything I need but my rear gears. I haven't bought my rear gears yet, cause I'm still looking for a good deal. But I'm pretty sure I'll find a set for less than $280.

Toyota 7.5" Ring and Pinion Full Install Kit (OPENED)

Toyota 7.5" Reverse Cut/HP 4.30 R&P Gears (USED)

This isn't a rip on anyone...heck if I had the cash, I'd love to go down and drop my rig off and say re-gear it! However, I just can't do that. I guess I need to be more carefull when I tell other guys prices that I find or get. Oh and something else...I want to give prompts to venders out there that've been give military discounts. It really helps a lot! Thanks!!
 
Nothing wrong with those prices at all. jump on the deals if you can. Even if you have to hold out for a bit to find a set of rears, it would still be worth it. Would you have a shot install them or will you be installing everything yourself?
 
No shop for me...I do all my own work. Not only do I refuse to pay someone $80-$100 an hr....but more important, I just don't trust my vehicles to a stranger!
 
Ok so what about if I just bought a completely new 3rd member front and rear from East Coast Gear Supply. They are running 640 for the rear with the E-locker and 610 for the front clamshell. That seems like an awesome deal as it would be around 1400 with tax and shipping and I could install them both myself as I have a buddy thats real good mechanic that could help me out. Does this seem like a cost effective option?
 
I have one rig with 4.30s and 32's and another with 4.88 and 35s...I would do 4.56 on 33's if I had 4.10 factory. If you had 4.30's I wouldn't waste the time and I'd just supercharge it :D.
I think 33s and 4.88 is doable, would be real peppy in town, but highway wouldn't be too awesome. with 35's I am at 2500rpm at 75mph
 
Ok so what about if I just bought a completely new 3rd member front and rear from East Coast Gear Supply. They are running 640 for the rear with the E-locker and 610 for the front clamshell. That seems like an awesome deal as it would be around 1400 with tax and shipping and I could install them both myself as I have a buddy thats real good mechanic that could help me out. Does this seem like a cost effective option?

Cant go wrong with ECGS.
 
Ok so what about if I just bought a completely new 3rd member front and rear from East Coast Gear Supply. They are running 640 for the rear with the E-locker and 610 for the front clamshell. That seems like an awesome deal as it would be around 1400 with tax and shipping and I could install them both myself as I have a buddy thats real good mechanic that could help me out. Does this seem like a cost effective option?

That's what I did. Definitely recommended.
 
Reviving a pretty old thread.
285/75/16
Sonoran Steel lift
Storage box
Rooftop tent
E locker
3.4 auto

Right now I have 4:10 .. My question is 4:56 or 4:88? Supercharger would be nice down the line

Thanks! Didn't want to start a new thread
 
I think 488s will put you where you need to be.
[MENTION=106270]RedSled[/MENTION],
Thanks for the info.
Not sure if it makes a difference but I forgot to add in rock sliders, full skids and she is my DD (only vehicle). I do a ton of trails and road trips.
 
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