4.7 V8 Water pump going Bad or Worse

[Az4runnin]

Started up my vehicle the other day had a pretty big puff of white smoke come out of the exhaust. Noise definitely coming from the belt area that was never happening before. I have never had overheating issues. I don't notice anything leaking. Water pump was changed when I did my timing belt. I would say roughly 50K miles ago I have about 260k miles. Noise is like a howling/whining sound. Coolant level has not dropped on overflow container. I will try to grab an audio/video of the sound. Any help advice or leads would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance. Luckily it started in the driveway and I wasn't driving at the time.

 

[rdruss]

Your water pump is driven by the timing belt, so you could remove your serpentine belt and start/run engine and see if noise goes away, if so, it's a pulley gone bad, if not, water pump.

 

[AuSeeker]

Started up my vehicle the other day had a pretty big puff of white smoke come out of the exhaust. Noise definitely coming from the belt area that was never happening before. I have never had overheating issues. I don't notice anything leaking. Water pump was changed when I did my timing belt. I would say roughly 50K miles ago I have about 260k miles. Noise is like a howling/whining sound. Coolant level has not dropped on overflow container. I will try to grab an audio/video of the sound. Any help advice or leads would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance. Luckily it started in the driveway and I wasn't driving at the time.

Mine was doing similar, ended up being the serpentine belt tensioner pulley bearing..

Do as suggested and remove the belt and see if the noise is still there, if noise is gone check the tensioner and idler pulleys for being loose and or noisy, etc.

If either are bad I'd replace them both while you at it, just an FYI sometime during the 2004 model year the size of the tensioner pulley changed from around 3 1/2" to around 4", use a tape measure to make sure you get the correct one, not sure what size the 2003 is, also an FYI, on my tensioner I only replace the pulley/bearing part not the entire assembly, you'll save some money and extra work by doing the same, the whole assembly is much harder to remove compared to just the 1 bolt to remove the pulley/bearing.

 

[Az4runnin]

I took the belt off, started it up no noise coming from the front of the engine. I'm going to replace the belt tensioner pulley and the idler pulley. I hope that does the trick for everything. Thanks a lot guys. I appreciate the help something I didn't even think about. Belt has some interesting wear on the outside

 

[AuSeeker]

I took the belt off, started it up no noise coming from the front of the engine. I'm going to replace the belt tensioner pulley and the idler pulley. I hope that does the trick for everything. Thanks a lot guys. I appreciate the help something I didn't even think about. Belt has some interesting wear on the outside

You might want to check the alternator and the power steering pump for noise when you turn them by hand, either of those could also be the source of the noise, hold the metal end of a long screwdriver as close to the bearing areas and cup the handle up against your ear for a makeshift stethoscope as you turn the pulleys you be surprise how much it will amplify any noise they're making, if the bearings are good you will hear a noise but it will be a quiet smooth noise, bad bearing will make a louder rough grinding noise.

It a good thing you're replacing the serpentine belt from the looks of it, a few members here have had theirs totally disintegrate and some of the pieces got in behind the harmonic balancer and destroyed the front crank oil seal which had to be replaced, a lot of work caused by a simple belt breaking!

 

[Az4runnin]

I forgot to say I'm also replacing my power steering pump. It's going bad anyway so it's the perfect time. I will definitely check the alternator as well.

 

[Az4runnin]

Belt tensioner pulley is definitely the problem for sure. It's grinding when you spin. I don't hear a lot of noise from the idler pulley, but I'm replacing it anyway with the mileage

 

[Az4runnin]

Thanks [MENTION=149207]AuSeeker[/MENTION] for the tip on the Screwdriver Trick for sure. Learn something new every day.

 

[AuSeeker]

Thanks [MENTION=149207]AuSeeker[/MENTION] for the tip on the Screwdriver Trick for sure. Learn something new every day. ��

No problem, IMHO it's what we are here on the forum for, to help when we can with info and to get help when we need it.

Pay it forward whenever you can!

Just an FYI that trick will work even with a stick/broom handle, etc., anything that you can press on the part and against your ear at the same time, just be careful if using around moving parts!!

 

[Az4runnin]

Just an FYI the Belt Tensioner Pulley on my 03 V8 is 4". I am only replacing the Pulley and not the whole assembly.

 

[AuSeeker]

Just an FYI the Belt Tensioner Pulley on my 03 V8 is 4". I am only replacing the Pulley and not the whole assembly.

My 2004 belt tensioner pulley is a 4" as well, it's has a early build date, so later 2004s and onwards have the smaller 3 1/2" pulley, the serpentine belt is also different.
I got the correct pulley because I measured it at the parts store but I had to go back because the belt they sold me was for the smaller pulley and I couldn't get it on, the belt that was on it was the wrong belt as well, not sure how whoever installed it ever got it on there, it was all I could do to get it off, I'm sure it helped wear out the old bearing.

 

[alia176]

It's been a spell since I replaced any of the idler pulleys but I save a little coin by replacing the bearing itself, and not the whole pulley. This way, I can guarantee a japanese bearing vs a chinese bearing.

 

[Az4runnin]

It's been a spell since I replaced any of the idler pulleys but I save a little coin by replacing the bearing itself, and not the whole pulley. This way, I can guarantee a japanese bearing vs a chinese bearing.

Where would I be able to purchase just the bearing and what size would it be? The outside diameter looks like 1 1/2". Inner looks like 5/8". I absolutely agree on the high-quality bearing

 

[alia176]

Where would I be able to purchase just the bearing and what size would it be? The outside diameter looks like 1 1/2". Inner looks like 5/8". I absolutely agree on the high-quality bearing

Lots of people use Amazon so that's always a hit/miss situation.

You'd have to remove the bearing and if you're lucky, simply read the brand name and the part # off of it, then search for it. Or, if you have a metric ruler/caliper, measure the ID (internal diameter or the hole size), the OD (outer diameter) and the thickness. Then go to Amazon or eBay and look for bearings that fit those dimensions.

For quality bearings local to me, I go to Motion Industries that supplies bearings to all kinds of industry.

So, take a look at the example I've attached. This is for the rear diff so it's really large but you'll get the idea. The brand name is NTN, and the p/n is AT-LM102910. This is for the race. The "cone", or the actual bearing p/n is 4T-LM102949. This bearing is made in USA.

I've used KOYO, NTN, NSK, NACHI and Timken bearings in my lifetime.

 

[Az4runnin]

Mine says NTN 6203 LH. Belt Tensioner Bearing

NTN 6203LH, RadialDeep Groove Ball Brg 17 Mm Id X 40 Mm Od X 12 Mm W Double Sealed.

Just ordered a New bearing through Grainger. Same NTN One Thanks for the info [MENTION=119796]alia176[/MENTION]

Just for reference
NSK BD20-15DUL Japan
Idler Pulley Bearing

 

[alia176]

Mine says NTN 6203 LH. Belt Tensioner Bearing

NTN 6203LH, RadialDeep Groove Ball Brg 17 Mm Id X 40 Mm Od X 12 Mm W Double Sealed.

Just ordered a New bearing through Grainger. Same NTN One Thanks for the info [MENTION=119796]alia176[/MENTION]

Just for reference
NSK BD20-15DUL Japan
Idler Pulley Bearing

Excellent, glad you found a quality replacement. I can't recall what kind of a snap ring plier you need for this project but it's easy to swap out the bearing.

 

[Az4runnin]

Job is done. Old Bearing came out with some PB Blaster a 24mm socket and a hammer. Came out pretty easy. I put the Pulley in the Oven for about 30 minutes and the Bearing in the freezer for a few hours. Took the pulley out of the oven, took the bearing out of the freezer put the bearing in the pulley. It went about 2/3 of the way in.. then I took the old bearing, put it on top of the new one and tapped it the rest of the way in with a hammer slid right in no problem. Pulley is on the truck with a brand new belt.

 

[alia176]

awesome sauce, nice job amigo. You saved some coin AND used a quality bearing, not a cheap POS from Amazon.