4.88 Gears

Deronh

New member
I want to re-gear my 2000 4Runner and I was wondering if anyone has suggestions on what brand to use? Thanks.
 
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Yukon gears probably would be your best bet.. Why 4.88s? Give us some details of your 4runner so we can help you out further.
 
gears

2nd Yukons. Scott at Addicted Offroad is putting some new ones in my front diff currently. Went with 4.88s as well.
Josh
 
Since the title and OP are so broad, I'd like to take this a bit off topic and ask:

Would re-gearing to 4.56 or 4.88 be worth it (or even overkill?) if you are planning on staying at stock or 265/75/16 tires on a 3.4 auto?

I'm not currently planning on re-gearing, I am just curious.
 
Yes I would think it would be overkill to run 4.56's or 4.88's with 265's. Unless it was never going to go on the freeway again. ;)

You can comfortably run 35's with 4.30's !
 
Since the title and OP are so broad, I'd like to take this a bit off topic and ask:

Would re-gearing to 4.56 or 4.88 be worth it (or even overkill?) if you are planning on staying at stock or 265/75/16 tires on a 3.4 auto?

I'm not currently planning on re-gearing, I am just curious.

I think 4.56 with 265's for your 4cyl wouldn't be overkill. Probably not worth the extra money you would put into it, but COB is running 4.56 with his 4cyl.

It's weird that 2nd gens came stock with 4.10, 4.56 and 4.88, but 3rd gens are typically 4.10 and 4.30 with the locker.
 
I would recommend East Coast Gear Supply for your re-gear.
They build the diff complete and ship it to you- so all you have to do is swap the 3rd member and send them back your old one. It's great because there's barely any down time on the truck, swapping the 3rd member is easy, and it's extremely cost effective.

Price breakdown:

[PER AXLE]
Gears- $250
Master Install Kit (READ: ESSENTIAL)- $200
Labor- $300-400
TOTAL: $750-850

Now if you go through ECGS they put the whole thing together WITH the gears of your choice AND install kit for $600. If you can swap the 3rds yourself (which you likely can) then you'll save yourself 150-250 PER AXLE.
Then the only thing left to do is think of sh!t to spend that extra $500 on...
 
Yes I would think it would be overkill to run 4.56's or 4.88's with 265's. Unless it was never going to go on the freeway again. ;)

You can comfortably run 35's with 4.30's !

My 33s and 4.88s are ok going up the mountain, but nothing to brag about. I'm not getting passed by every car or anything, but I wouldn't call it powerful either. It really depends on your environment, altitude, and driving style, but for me, 35s and 4.30s would make me want to go crazy. I wish I would have gone with 33s and 5.29s. I have added ~700 lbs. to my runner in bumpers, armor, tools, etc.. and that basically feels like pulling a medium-sized trailer all the time. 4.88s with 33s put me back to about stock, but I know I'm a little under stock power with all that weight. And my engine just got rebuilt so it has all the power it should.

I think 4.56 with 265's for your 4cyl wouldn't be overkill. Probably not worth the extra money you would put into it, but COB is running 4.56 with his 4cyl.

It's weird that 2nd gens came stock with 4.10, 4.56 and 4.88, but 3rd gens are typically 4.10 and 4.30 with the locker.

I think that's because the 3.slow and 22RE are dogs when it comes to power. Lower stock gear ratios in the 2nd gens helped mask their gutlessness.

I would recommend East Coast Gear Supply for your re-gear.
They build the diff complete and ship it to you- so all you have to do is swap the 3rd member and send them back your old one. It's great because there's barely any down time on the truck, swapping the 3rd member is easy, and it's extremely cost effective.

Price breakdown:

[PER AXLE]
Gears- $250
Master Install Kit (READ: ESSENTIAL)- $200
Labor- $300-400
TOTAL: $750-850

Now if you go through ECGS they put the whole thing together WITH the gears of your choice AND install kit for $600. If you can swap the 3rds yourself (which you likely can) then you'll save yourself 150-250 PER AXLE.
Then the only thing left to do is think of sh!t to spend that extra $500 on...

x2.
 
I also noticed a big power loss when I got my steel wheels. It was about the same amount of power loss I felt when I went from 265s to 285s. I had my 285s on the stock alloys and when I went to 255s, the tires alone shouldn't have made a noticeable difference. But I got my steelies at the same time as the 255s and it immediately felt like I went up another tire size even though the difference from 285s and 255s is very minimal.
 
I know my 285 km2's measure 33.3 or 33.1 new, and thats the same as a 255.. Want to trade wheels ? You can have my super sick stylish alloys with rock rash, and chunks taken out.
 
I thnk my Bighorns are 33.3 or .4 I think. I actually like your wheels now that you took off the chrome domes. I still have my stockies too. I'm thinking about throwing some 285 Duratracs on those for next winter and running the Bighorns the rest of the year on my steelies.
 
Thanks for all the input guys. My truck's specs are as follows:
2000 4Runner, auto, 3.4L, 4:10's, 265/75/R16 BFG A/T's, OME 882's firm shocks front, 891's firm shocks rear, adjustable rear track bar, brake cable relocation bracket, ARB Prado bullbar, warn 9000, lights, D-rings, and 200K+ miles.

I'm gonna spend the next 6 months rebuilding the truck. 285's, lockers, snorkel, high amp alternator, more lights, custom rear bumper with a swing away carrier(hopefully for 4 fuel cans not the tire).

I think I'm gonna need different gears, maybe not 4.88's, maybe 4.56's. My 95 4Runner had them and seemed to take hills much better plus I think either of the above will help move the truck more easily and more efficiently with larger tires and more weight.
 
It seems like alot of people recommend ECGS but does anyone know what it costs to ship your stuff back to them? I'm on the west coast so I don't see it being cheap.
 
I have Precision Gear 4.88s with my 315/75-16 Goodyear MT/Rs. My diffs (4.88s and ARBs) were built by Inchworm back in '04...no problems since.
 
It seems like alot of people recommend ECGS but does anyone know what it costs to ship your stuff back to them? I'm on the west coast so I don't see it being cheap.

it says on their website. when you order you can get return shipping labels from ecgs at a discounted rate. they say $45 from the west coast
 
WTB 4.56 gear

I want to buy 4.56 gears for my 97' 4runner (285's,arb front bumper, 3'' lift)
but i don't know where can i get. please tell me where can i buy it or tell me what's ECGS or yukons. Thanks a lot!
 
Vincent - ECGS stands for East Coast Gear Supply. They are a company in the US that will regear your differential for you with the gears of your choice. They will warranty the setup, replace bearings and confirm all backlash. It's a great option if you don't have a shop that can do a proper regear. There is way more to regearing than just replacing the gears due to the small tolerances that are required for proper functioning. Yukon is a gear manufacturer here in the US.
 
My 33s and 4.88s are ok going up the mountain, but nothing to brag about. I'm not getting passed by every car or anything, but I wouldn't call it powerful either. It really depends on your environment, altitude, and driving style, but for me, 35s and 4.30s would make me want to go crazy. I wish I would have gone with 33s and 5.29s. I have added ~700 lbs. to my runner in bumpers, armor, tools, etc.. and that basically feels like pulling a medium-sized trailer all the time. 4.88s with 33s put me back to about stock, but I know I'm a little under stock power with all that weight. And my engine just got rebuilt so it has all the power it should.



I think that's because the 3.slow and 22RE are dogs when it comes to power. Lower stock gear ratios in the 2nd gens helped mask their gutlessness.



x2.

Hi Brian, I have 33s and plan on regearing 4:88s, using TRD alloy wheels; in your opinion, will this be appropriately geared for a weekend warrior and still have decent drivability on the highway? I'm not worried about gas, but rather if the truck will continue to downshift at 65mph. I plan to add bumpers as well. I just don't want to go too steep and not be able to drive in on the road when I'm not trailing. Any education and advice appreciated.
 
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