AZ_Trails
New member
Lots of misinformation in this thread, but this is the answer. Look for a 96-00 3.4L 5 Speed. I found mine (drum to drum) locally within a couple weeks of looking on car-part.com
4Runner 4.10 Elocker
- Thread starter idlingmike
- Start date
Lots of misinformation in this thread, but this is the answer. Look for a 96-00 3.4L 5 Speed. I found mine (drum to drum) locally within a couple weeks of looking on car-part.com
It's a forum. Have to read carefully more the once. And in between the lines.
My old 3rd gen manual I did the retro install from a donor automatic tacoma into my 4runner. Took a long day/night but all was complete and awesome! The pumpkin (locker/gears) i spent 300.00 used. I'm an electrician so I undersatnd wiring way more than AIR. I also prefer electrical than to AIR. My current 4Runner is a 3rd gen automatic with Rear locker. My dad has another pumpkin with a elocker we picked up for 150.00 (such a steal!).
But its not too difficult to find/swap out and if your TRYING to save money, why not go with a less expensive option such as 3rd party (non factory/arb locker)? I may have missed it, but are you just wanting the locker to have it or to use it?
But its not too difficult to find/swap out and if your TRYING to save money, why not go with a less expensive option such as 3rd party (non factory/arb locker)? I may have missed it, but are you just wanting the locker to have it or to use it?
NM4Runner231
New member
I just bought an entire wrecked 97 4Runner SR5 with 5spd with e-locker from the original owner for $750. There's also an e-locker third member with 4:10 gears (with install gaskets and studs) on Albuquerque craigslist (it's located in northern NM) for $400. I know Low Range Offroad sells an install kit. There's a great article on this site called Retrofit Electric Locker, awesome detailed info with photos.
NM4Runner231
New member
JayRolla, I sent you a lead on an e-locker for sale on craigslist in northern NM, the guy wants $400 for it.
Xntrik7
New member
I have a neighbor who rolled his 4Runner this past winter when he hit a patch of ice. Thankfully, he was not injured.
The truck is a manual SR5 and I am not certain if it has the RR Diff Lock. If it does indeed have a rear locker with 4.10 gears, I could possibly buy the entire drum-to-drum axle, wiring harnesses, ECU and button. Do I need to do anything to the front to make it compatible? I am pretty sure that I have 4.10 gears based on the code on the driver's side door.
Has anybody successfully retrofitted a locker from a 4Runner equipped with a manual into an automatic?
Cheers and thank you!
-Dan
The truck is a manual SR5 and I am not certain if it has the RR Diff Lock. If it does indeed have a rear locker with 4.10 gears, I could possibly buy the entire drum-to-drum axle, wiring harnesses, ECU and button. Do I need to do anything to the front to make it compatible? I am pretty sure that I have 4.10 gears based on the code on the driver's side door.
Has anybody successfully retrofitted a locker from a 4Runner equipped with a manual into an automatic?
Cheers and thank you!
-Dan
If your truck is an automatic and that was a manual, the gear ratio's are 4:10 (manual) to 4:30 (automatic). You will need to match the front differential as well from the rear locker vehicle.
Locker ECU, locker wiring harness, switch an you should be good. Establish if you are partially pre-wired or not. You should have a plug behind the dash panel for the switch and an empty plug that goes to the locker ECU behind the drivers kick panel.
Worst case you have to make a harness yourself which is 7 wires from the locker harness up to the locker ECU plug and tap the wires into corresponding colors. There is a picture floating around which shows you which wire goes where exactly.
Xntrik7
New member
Roger that, I will have to perform a spin test first. I love this forum!
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/110417-98-back-end-ratio-help.html
Reviving an old Thread!
I have a '98 4Runner, 5spd Manual w/ ABS. I want to get a rear oem elocker. If i'm understanding it correctly, I need:
1. 4.10 elocker. anything else and I'd have to replace the front differential as well.
2. elocker actuator
3. elocker pigtail/harness (about 16" and attaches to the elocker. i would then have to make my own wiring run from it to the ECU)
4. elocker ecu (plugged in at the driver's side kick panel)
5. elocker switch (located to the left of the steering wheel)
6. 6 conductor male/female male/female plug (to connect my wiring to the pigtail at the locker)
7. 6 conductor wiring
referred to this in part: Retrofit Electric Locker
questions:
1. am i forgetting anything in the above list?
2. when one buys the elocker, is the actuator typically included?
3. given i already have 4.10 gearing, are any modifications required to fit it into the pumpkin and close it back up?
4. not quite sure I'm understanding how to splice the wiring at the ecu. do i cut a few of the wires at that ecu plug and solder/splice my new wires to those (believe i found the wiring diagram)? or, am i just buying a new plug, connecting my wire run to it and plugging it in? i'm guessing the prior.
5. any other words of wisdom?
ALWAYS A BIG THANKS TO THIS FANTASTIC COMMUNITY. PRICELESS!
psea
I have a '98 4Runner, 5spd Manual w/ ABS. I want to get a rear oem elocker. If i'm understanding it correctly, I need:
1. 4.10 elocker. anything else and I'd have to replace the front differential as well.
2. elocker actuator
3. elocker pigtail/harness (about 16" and attaches to the elocker. i would then have to make my own wiring run from it to the ECU)
4. elocker ecu (plugged in at the driver's side kick panel)
5. elocker switch (located to the left of the steering wheel)
6. 6 conductor male/female male/female plug (to connect my wiring to the pigtail at the locker)
7. 6 conductor wiring
referred to this in part: Retrofit Electric Locker
questions:
1. am i forgetting anything in the above list?
2. when one buys the elocker, is the actuator typically included?
3. given i already have 4.10 gearing, are any modifications required to fit it into the pumpkin and close it back up?
4. not quite sure I'm understanding how to splice the wiring at the ecu. do i cut a few of the wires at that ecu plug and solder/splice my new wires to those (believe i found the wiring diagram)? or, am i just buying a new plug, connecting my wire run to it and plugging it in? i'm guessing the prior.
5. any other words of wisdom?
ALWAYS A BIG THANKS TO THIS FANTASTIC COMMUNITY. PRICELESS!
psea
Mark_BC
Senior Member
1. 4.10 elocker. anything else and I'd have to replace the front differential as well. Yes, most likely. Check your diff ratio by jacking one wheel in the air and spinning and counting it relative to the drive shaft. Apparently the stickers aren't 100% reliable but as far as I know, manuals are 4.10. Unfortunately most elocked axles are from 4.3 automatics (Limited option). Actually that's a good thing because 4.3 is better with 33's.
2. elocker actuator. Should come on the axle
3. elocker pigtail/harness (about 16" and attaches to the elocker. i would then have to make my own wiring run from it to the ECU). You don't need to put in the ECU, you can make your own circuit. But then it won't light up the dash light or have the OEM look. I'll post a link later.
4. elocker ecu (plugged in at the driver's side kick panel)
5. elocker switch (located to the left of the steering wheel)
6. 6 conductor male/female male/female plug (to connect my wiring to the pigtail at the locker) Chilkat designs offers a mechanical cable actuator replacement; otherwise you'll need to run the wire
7. 6 conductor wiring
given i already have 4.10 gearing, are any modifications required to fit it into the pumpkin and close it back up?
Yes to retrofit you need to weld extra material on the mating surface of 3rd member and grind flush.
2. elocker actuator. Should come on the axle
3. elocker pigtail/harness (about 16" and attaches to the elocker. i would then have to make my own wiring run from it to the ECU). You don't need to put in the ECU, you can make your own circuit. But then it won't light up the dash light or have the OEM look. I'll post a link later.
4. elocker ecu (plugged in at the driver's side kick panel)
5. elocker switch (located to the left of the steering wheel)
6. 6 conductor male/female male/female plug (to connect my wiring to the pigtail at the locker) Chilkat designs offers a mechanical cable actuator replacement; otherwise you'll need to run the wire
7. 6 conductor wiring
given i already have 4.10 gearing, are any modifications required to fit it into the pumpkin and close it back up?
Yes to retrofit you need to weld extra material on the mating surface of 3rd member and grind flush.
Last edited:
RandyBobandy
New member
I wouldn’t let replacing the front diff scare you off of getting a 4.30 locker, the front isn’t nearly as bad as people make it sound, I did both my front and rear recently and the front was far easier than doing the rear axle assembly
Mark_BC
Senior Member
Timmy has a front diff removal video. Apparently the hard part is the bolt sticking out of the bottom.
If only Toyota had made that the part you remove with a wrench a bolt instead of a nut, it would be SO MUCH easier. But I guess in the factory, when you're setting a front diff down onto an otherwise pretty empty frame, the bolt poking down helps align it. And since there's technically enough room to remove it later with the engine in place, that's what they went with.
One subtle aspect, especially with these cars being decades old with plenty of miles at this point, is that quite often the motor mounts have sagged and there's less clearance between the engine and front crossmember/front diff. And the clearance is pretty tight to begin with, with some drivetrain sag disappearing another 1/2 inch or so it gets REALLY hard sometimes. Add to it the fact that you have to take the front suspension half apart to remove the CV axles, I think it's a hard swap than the rear axle is.
Actuators 'should' be included with an elocker diff, but I wouldn't guarantee it. If you're buying one, make sure you ask up front so expectations are in line. Actuators tend to fail more often than the diffs do, I've seen a few times in junkyards where people pulled the actuator and left the diff (I certainly grabbed the diff). And used actuators are sold by themselves plenty of times, as are the third members sold without actuators (grenade a diff, but you don't need an actuator).
Not sure if you're getting a complete elocker axle or just the 3rd member. If you are getting just the 3rd member you'll need to either modify the axle housing or get an elocker axle housing. Actuator should come with the 3rd member/axle assembly.
RandyBobandy
New member
To remove my front diff I just undid the lower ball joints, popped out the axles from the diff and propped them out of the way, undo the driveshaft, undo all the diff mounting bolts, then remove the passenger side diff mount arm. Then just lift that rear stud out and rotate the passenger side of the diff up and it slides out.
If anyone in my area wants there front diff removed just unbolt all that stuff and I’ll come over and pull it out, if it takes me more than 5 minutes I’ll buy you a case or Busch lite
If anyone in my area wants there front diff removed just unbolt all that stuff and I’ll come over and pull it out, if it takes me more than 5 minutes I’ll buy you a case or Busch lite
octanejunkie
Elite Member
What if I prefer Miller Lite?
Good post, could be a picture-step process for folks needing to pull their front diff
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
phattyduck
Elite Member
This is the secret right here. To get the angle right for the rear stud to come out, you need the mount arm off...
A lift, a trans jack and a friend make it pretty easy...
-Charlie
