4runner Custom Lower Links !

J-money$$$

New member
So Brian2sun and i decided to make lower links for our runners. I had a bent one, and Brian has seen a few bend.

We used Ruff Stuff Specialties 7/8" heims with bungs for 1.25" id tubing both right hand thread

As far as material we used 1.5" .120 wall dom and sleeved it with 1.75" .120 wall dom.

it was a tight fit. So basically it is 1.75" .250 wall dom, but the sleeved design was used to cut cost. ( i would have had to but a 20 ft stick for $250 !!!!) then we used all grade 8 hardware. We had to drill the stock mounts out to 5/8. It was a really easy build. If any one wants info on the setup. I can help you out.

I feel they are almost indestructible. The heims are rated at 42,000lbs. and the tubing would be hard to bend. Check out the pictures.

And on a side note we also added plate to the lower control arm mount. It was simple to do as well and i believe should help us from crushing our mounts. Both Brian and I had messed up mounts and had to do some work to fix them.

1016101144a.jpg~original

1016101144.jpg~original

1016101143a.jpg~original

1016101143.jpg~original


Brian will have some to add im sure
 
Register to hide this ad
good stuff guys glad you finally got on top of this! it's something that's been mentioned here before and it's rad to see someone execute it! when will you go into mass production ? lol :bigok:
 
I'm extremely happy with the way they turned out, and they were surprisingly easy to build too. Not only are they nearly indestructible, but the heim joints put basically zero twisting force on the mounts too, unlike the straight stock rubber bushings which that's all they do. This means the chances of tearing a mount off the axle or frame is greatly decreased. We added approx. 22* more flex to the joints also which resulted in about .5-1" more downward travel also (because the stock arms have triangular stops on the top at the frame side) So now J-money$$$ and I need longer shocks to take advantage of the full range of flex. Here's a shot from right after install (btw, my tire is still on the ground here and getting traction)...
1015101800a.jpg~original

The other side (cameras are deceiving, it doesn't look like much, but ~ 3"+ of my tire is past the flare and up in my fender...
1015101804a.jpg~original
 
Last edited:
uppers are in the future. Any I would be more than happy to build a set for anyone.
It cost me about $180 in material per set, and I do have extra tube for a set right now. I can always get more too. Thats a great price for these links if you think about what they cost from other places. I am not into marking things up. They take me about an hour per set.

if my welds seem so so. Its partially because these are stick welded, not mig welded. I am positive that they have great penetration. I am in the learning process, I have been welding for a few years now, but it takes years to perfect

The Heim joints are from ruffstuffspecialties.com They are sold in pairs so you need to buy 2 pairs for a set of links. Each pair is $57. You need the 7/8 right hand thread only 1.25" set. So $114 plus tax and shipping per set of inks
As far a hardware its was $16 per truck. you need four( grade 8) 4" long 5/8 bolts. four 5/8 nuts and about 20 washers.

and lastly for the tube. You need at least 32" of each (1.5" .120 DOM) and (1.75" .120 DOM). 32" of both sizes will do a pair of links. so buy whatever length is closest to that so you do not waste any. Most likely 5ft pieces are the smallest you can get

install is super simple.
1. drill out the stock mount holes to 5/8
2. set your new links to 21" and snug up the jam nuts ( on the work bench)
3. Install. use washers to fill the small gap inside the mount.
4. Tighten the jam nuts down
enjoy...

I could probably do a set of uppers for $140-$150 with 1" .120 wall dom Grade 8 hardware and 3/4" heims.

Any brian is right. To take advantage of the added flex capabilities of these links you will need some other shock than something made for a 4runner.

I have not bought any yet. But the numbers on the OME n71e land cruiser shocks and Tokico landcruiser rear shocks seem promising.

I am going to pick up a set and will post up results. We are shooting for about 2 inches more of rear tire droop at full flex
 
Nice :hungry::driving: :bigok::bravo::drummer::guitar2:

That looks great and double walled DOM!!! BEEF I like! I'm curious if the heims joints rattle clank bang at all while driving I have herd they can be noisy. I'm sure it wont be long until these get a good beating what better test rigs
 
Last edited:
Those are awesome. A group of us were sitting around a campfire in Moab talking about building some. This was the night after I broke an upper arm.
 
Hey did you guys by chance cut the old bent LCA and get specs on the factory tubing Dia. wall thickness the like that would be really cool to know.
 
Nice :hungry::driving: :bigok::bravo::drummer::guitar2:

Great work boys! Those look really beefy!

That looks great and double walled DOM!!! BEEF I like! I'm curious if the heims joints rattle clank bang at all while driving I have herd they can be noisy. I'm sure it wont be long until these get a good beating what better test rigs

Thanks guys! Driffter, they don't make a sound on the road, I even went up the dirt part of hwy 173 coming home from Jason's house last night and it is one of the worst washboard roads around and I still didn't hear make any noise!

Those are awesome. A group of us were sitting around a campfire in Moab talking about building some. This was the night after I broke an upper arm.

Thanks. Hey I'm wondering how much more driveshaft clearance your gas tank skid gives compared to stock? Because I'm wondering if I'm going to have to limit the travel anyways to prevent the driveshaft flange rubbing the gas tank skid (which is does now with the stock one) when it's flexed out like the shot above. I figure if I have to limit it anyways, I may just keep my shocks, but if your skid has ~.5" more clearance than the stock then I can probably get longer shocks and have more flex (if that made sense).

Hey did you guys by chance cut the old bent LCA and get specs on the factory tubing Dia. wall thickness the like that would be really cool to know.

My LCAs weren't bent yet so I'll probably just sell them or maybe even give them away. One of Jason's is bent, maybe he'll be willing to sawsall through it. I cant imagine it's more than 1/8" (.120).
 
i found a picture in this link and it shows a stock one cut.
Extreme Duty Lower Links - $310.00 : Sonoran Steel, Sonoran Steel Custom Metal Fabrication L.L.C. Custom Toyota Truck Parts
It is roughly 1" .120 wall welded seam stuff. My guess is that they are low quality steel in the first place, and 1" tubing/pipe is not very strong either.

So by what we did we gain strength with:
1: by increasing the OD of the tubing which increases strength. I.e. 1.5" .120 wall is stronger than 1" .120 wall
2: using thicker wall material. In our case doubling the wall thickness of the material
and 3: Using good quality steel. DOM is seamless (generaly speaking) and the material itself is stronger than Hrew. and im not even saying the stock arms are Hrew.
 
Im down to chop one for the cause :)
and there is absolutely no noise from them

AND THANKS FOR ALL THE POSITIVE COMMENTS
makes me feel good lol
 
You should feel good those are some nice LCA's it may only take an hr to make a set now but I bet you have several hrs in research to get to this point thanks for the great job I may in the future sell my factory ones with the toytec weld on skids and up m grade to a set of yours I'll wait and watch them work on the trail but added flex and ajustabillity are both very cool features.:bravo:
 
the stock ones are very weak.

Im anxious to see how they work on the trail. I may just go try and bash them tomorrow
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,306
Messages
3,554,045
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top