4Runner CV Shafts - Will this work?

Singtoe

New member
I have seen some long travel conversion kits for the 4runners out there that use the tundra axle shafts with extended control arms and coil overs.

The short one is the 4Runner and the other is a Tundra's
8_cvaxles_cvr.jpg



My question is, has anybody tried this - Using the inboard CV joint from a Tundra on a 4runner shaft and outboard CV joint?

Are the inner splines of of the CV joint the same between the two. I know that the the inboard diff shafts are the same as they have done the long travel conversions with Tundra Axle shafts.

If it does work - Here are the benefits.

Using a more heavy duty CV joint.
Have more articulation because of the ball and cage design.


4Runner only has 3 points of contact
product3.jpg



Tundra has 6 points of contact
CV%20joint.jpg


Will it work?
 
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I heard it wont work, they are too long, I believe Yoshida and Gerdo tried them, among other things...
 
I heard it wont work, they are too long, I believe Yoshida and Gerdo tried them, among other things...

What's too long - the actual joint or the whole axle.

It is obvious, just looking at the picture that the shaft is longer but i was thinking about using the 4runner shaft with the Tundra inboard cv joint...
 
singtoe, i dont see why that wouldnt work... ive never tryed it but it looks to me like it would, just takes a little bit of work thats all try it and let us know:hungry:
 
What's too long - the actual joint or the whole axle.

It is obvious, just looking at the picture that the shaft is longer but i was thinking about using the 4runner shaft with the Tundra inboard cv joint...

That might be an idea there... use the 4runner shaft and the cv joint... hmmm... that may work... let us know what happens!
 
I found out that Tundra half shafts are like $70 at the local parts store. I having actually broke down to buy one . I have my eye open for a used tundra half shaft that I could get for cheap but i have not found one yet. The junk yards want the same price as one from an auto parts store.


If the splines on the 4runner shaft are the same as the shafts on the Tundra, then just swapping ends should be easy enough.

I will try this in the future but for now, my CV's are working fine.
 
Interesting idea that might actually work..I'll definitely follow how this progresses.

Another Tundra item for the 4Runner, bring it on.
 
I have a wrecked Sequoia now. I should be able to do this test and see if it works.

Just waiting for the weather to break.
 
I believe that the inners and the outers are the same on the two axles, just the axle length is different.

I'm curious what you find out.
 
I believe that the inners and the outers are the same on the two axles, just the axle length is different.

I'm curious what you find out.

Me too - it appears I am doing a manual hub conversion, might as well beef up the CV's while I'm in there...
 
in your pics you show a 4runner inner and a tundra outer (which looks exactly like a 4runner outer) and why change the inner, that is not the problem. The problem is the ball and cage and they like to break.

Im with gerdo on the axles being the same (joint wise) minus the actual shaft. THats why you can swap the shafts for the lt kits. The only reason why the lt kit is easier on cv's is because they are significantly longer
 
in your pics you show a 4runner inner and a tundra outer (which looks exactly like a 4runner outer) and why change the inner, that is not the problem. The problem is the ball and cage and they like to break.

Im with gerdo on the axles being the same (joint wise) minus the actual shaft. THats why you can swap the shafts for the lt kits. The only reason why the lt kit is easier on cv's is because they are significantly longer

I think that the CV joint locks up in full articulation. Meaning, when you are off roading and you have one front wheel off the ground, The joint binds up and when you drive it forward, something gots to give and something breaks.

My justification for this experiment is that with the 6 ball cv joint, it has greater angular operation. It shouldn't bind up in full articulation thus not breaking.
 
I think that the CV joint locks up in full articulation. Meaning, when you are off roading and you have one front wheel off the ground, The joint binds up and when you drive it forward, something gots to give and something breaks.
.

Unless you have increased the droop, the OEM CVs will not bind or lockup. Aftermarket ones have been known to lockup and not allow the tire to turn, with factory droop.

***If you are using front shocks that are spec'd for 4runners, even on lifted vehicles, are the same length as stock shocks. Topout spacers do increase droop and can cause excess droop.***
 

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