4Runner failed me today
- Thread starter Dan0280
- Start date
CoMtn4Runner
New member
I am still trying to figure out if the state of NJ actually has any slopes steep enough to stop a 4runner. I need pictures or this didn't really happen.
sooperedd
Member
TheMachine
New member
Just wanted to say SAKER you have a really nice T4R! Kudos! :dancin:
ST1FLER
Banned
Not all of ushwell:
Jury is still out
blues
New member
Wow...cannibalizing fellow owners. Nice.
But PA is nice, when you get married, they inquire to confirm that. I'm safe
ST1FLER
Banned
correct me if I am wrong but you tossed out the inbred comment
They actually don't. They only ask if you've owned a Fox Body lol
But I digress before this goes too far of topic.
Last edited:
Jetboy
New member
Here's to an obvious internet newbie. For future reference, when you screw up something obvious and it's on the internet - lie about it. That's how the internet works...
Seriously it's awesome that you were cool enough to just say "yeah, I did it wrong." Doesn't happen very often. :thumb3:
Also FWIW - nothing in 4 low should limit anyone to under 7mph. Some features will turn off if you go above certain speeds, but if you push the long skinny pedal, it will go. Even in crawl mode.
As far as the difference in transfer cases, the turn dial version moves the transfer case shift fork with an electric servo. It looks like this:
You can see how it sits on the back in this image:
The Trail uses a mechanical linkage to do the same function.
All 4runners except the limited use a similar servo to engage the front axle.
They should all be pretty reliable. There are lots of servos that operate a lot of functions. Every time you press the throttle a servo operates to open the butterfly valve. Every time the transmission shifts - servos are controlling the valves. The bypassing of one single servo motor isn't going to make a lot of difference in reliability. I think an argument could be made for a very simple engine with no electronics and fully manual driveline being somewhat less prone to certain types of failures, but I don't think any evidence I have supports that. My electronic cars are much more reliable than older mechanical ones.
3wbdriver
New member
You live in one of the off road racing Mecca's of the United States. Don't tell me you can't find a simple dirt road to run around on for 20 minutes once every couple of months. That 10 miles a month is not a set in stone deal/warranty breaker. It's a recommendation so you can keep the components of your 4wd system lubricated and exercised.
I'm in the same boat as you as far as life not cooperating. But it doesn't keep me from running a 15 mile dirt county road once every couple of months if I haven't been able to get out and play in a while. I feel silly doing it sometimes, but I look at it as a part of ownership, Like a good wash and wax or an oil change. That picture in my sig line was taken while I was running on some NF roads just a week ago. And you have a large state park not 30 minutes east of you!!!
Jetboy
New member
The primary goal of the 10 miles per month is to ensure that surface rust doesn't happen on lubricated bearing surfaces. Bearings generally operate on the principle that the grease is all pushed out of the bearing surface area. As the bearing warms up the outer layer of the grease melts and runs into the bearing surface. So the bearings while running are constantly lubricated by the grease, but not actually bathed in grease all the time. If you let them sit too long the grease will evaporate off and leave the surface exposed to oxygenated air and rust will happen. Eventually it leads to excessive wear and bearing failures.
So - you need to heat up the roller bearings in particular once in a while.
So - you need to heat up the roller bearings in particular once in a while.
If you surpass the speeds needed to keep the system engaged, doesn't that defeat the purpose of driving the 10 miles with 4WD active in order to lubricate the system?
3wbdriver
New member
It doesn't have to be in 4lo. Just 4wd. You are exercising the front axle servo and gears, and moving all the servos and internal parts of the transfer case. If you put it in 4hi it stays in 4hi. If you put it in 4lo it stays there. CRAWL, multi-terrain, and A-trac are more related to the ECU engine and brake controls than to the internal hardware of the 4wd system.
sooperedd
Member
Here's to an obvious internet newbie. For future reference, when you screw up something obvious and it's on the internet - lie about it. That's how the internet works...
Seriously it's awesome that you were cool enough to just say "yeah, I did it wrong." Doesn't happen very often. :thumb3:
Also FWIW - nothing in 4 low should limit anyone to under 7mph. Some features will turn off if you go above certain speeds, but if you push the long skinny pedal, it will go. Even in crawl mode.
As far as the difference in transfer cases, the turn dial version moves the transfer case shift fork with an electric servo. It looks like this:
You can see how it sits on the back in this image:
The Trail uses a mechanical linkage to do the same function.
All 4runners except the limited use a similar servo to engage the front axle.
They should all be pretty reliable. There are lots of servos that operate a lot of functions. Every time you press the throttle a servo operates to open the butterfly valve. Every time the transmission shifts - servos are controlling the valves. The bypassing of one single servo motor isn't going to make a lot of difference in reliability. I think an argument could be made for a very simple engine with no electronics and fully manual driveline being somewhat less prone to certain types of failures, but I don't think any evidence I have supports that. My electronic cars are much more reliable than older mechanical ones.
Great pics, thanks.
When I was deciding between the TEP and the SR5P it came down to the mechanical lever and locking diff; didn't think either were worth the almost 5K more.
In searching I didn't find the electronic actuator to be failure prone. And like you said, there are electronic actuators all over new vehicles now. Plus it was easier to explain to my wife just push the button and turn the dial for 4WD although she hasn't driven the 4R since the test drive.
1engineer
Moderator
...also solenoid actuator stiction.
Jetboy
New member
The systems that shut off at are not mechanical in a way that only works in 4wd - so they don't need the periodic use. They are electric circuits. Generally electrical solenoids don't suffer from lack of use - although old ones might (??) in the right circumstances. The only one that is kinda mechanical is the rear locking differential, but the only part that is being "worked" is the actuation of sliding the shift fork. So you can just engage and disengage it once in a while and you're good to go.
Driving in 4hi once in a while moves all the necessary shifting forks and shafts and assemblies so they don't get gummed up by the residue from oil evaporating off the shafts and sliding surfaces and whatever else causes them to stick over time if left unused. It also spins all the mechanical bits. The electronic systems that disengage at speed are brake system related and shouldn't need any special attention. The one part that might be used once in a while is KDSS, but it should always be cycling a little bit going in and out of the driveway and such. But it's probably an okay idea to at least flex out the suspension ever once in a while to cycle the pistons.
Last edited:
Jetboy
New member
Part of the issue I think is that people who have owned other brands are gun shy. Ford for example will put them inside the transfer case. So if anything goes wrong it's an expensive fix because you have to remove the transfer case and pull it apart to get access to the electronic servo. My father in law had this happen recently. It was something like $2,000 to fix. On a Toyota design with external mount, it's a lot easier/cheaper although it's not as well protected from the elements. It's something I've always liked about Toyota e-lockers and e-transfer case actuators. If it really goes south out in the middle of nowhere - you can get underneath with pretty limited tools and manually engage or disengage them.
Last edited:
blues
New member
Bingo. I sold my 2002 Explorer (and bought my TEP) last month a couple of days after the 4WD failed to activate when I needed it. (It turned out to be the transfer case control module, a pretty common issue with the Explorer from that time frame and an easy fix.) Having never been a big fan of the 4WD system in the Ford on the best of days I decided it was high time to take a big step up. (I gave my local UPS driver a great deal on the Explorer and haven't looked back.)
