4runner roof rack end caps ABS plastic?

RoadWarrior

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Hey guys, I recently Plasti Dipped my SR5 end caps wanting to take a bit of chrome off my 4runner, They came out decent, but I felt as if plasti dipping was only going to rub off over time, So I then looked for Black end caps on amazon I found some and ordered them. After ordering I noticed they are ''high quality ABS Plastic'' So I googled sun resistance of ABS plastic and well, It really sucked, So I'm curious are the OEM end caps ABS Plastic too or am I ordering an inferior plastic
 
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Not sure what oem is made of, but I've used 303 for years. I use it or have used it on. all black trim, headlights, truck tonneau covers, vinyl / plastic house window trim, my weber grill cover has lasted 20 year now, old ones would dry up and crack. Use it once maybe a year and stays like new. Don't like wet tire shine look. this leaves a no gloss flat dark black finish on car tires and does not turn brown like other crap
303-aerospace-protectant-32-oz-24.jpg
 
Hey guys, I recently Plasti Dipped my SR5 end caps wanting to take a bit of chrome off my 4runner, They came out decent, but I felt as if plasti dipping was only going to rub off over time, So I then looked for Black end caps on amazon I found some and ordered them. After ordering I noticed they are ''high quality ABS Plastic'' So I googled sun resistance of ABS plastic and well, It really sucked, So I'm curious are the OEM end caps ABS Plastic too or am I ordering an inferior plastic

I don't know what the OEM plastic is since I haven't taken my caps off yet. There should be a code stamped into the inside of the cap identifying what it's made of. It should be located close to the part number. If I had to venture a guess I would say it'll be PP+E/P-TD20 sold under the trade name Xenopren.
 
I don't know what the OEM plastic is since I haven't taken my caps off yet. There should be a code stamped into the inside of the cap identifying what it's made of. It should be located close to the part number. If I had to venture a guess I would say it'll be PP+E/P-TD20 sold under the trade name Xenopren.

This is only thing stamped in oem. Only changes are right hand left hand front and back
 

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PC+ASA is the plastic.
Polycarb + acrylic-styrene-acrylate polymer. The PC is for stiffness and the ASA is for UV and weather resistance. Toyota made a good choice. And yes ABS is inferior to PC+ASA for this application.
 
Thanks guys, I'm keeping the OEM on then, I'm now digging the plasti dipped caps, I'll re dipp them if they begin to fade.
 
This is only thing stamped in oem. Only changes are right hand left hand front and back

PC + ASA

The acrylic-styrene-acrylate terpolymer (ASA) is an amorphous thermoplastic material that offers good resistance to both UV and moisture. PC/ASA is an amorphous thermoplastic alloy of polycarbonate (PC) and ASA that provides enhanced heat resistance and enhanced mechanical properties.
 
I had to remove the 2 rear caps on mine today to put the crossbars on.
I really do not like how that process works- feels like you are about to break something every step of the removal.
I did mark the position of the catch tabs with a silver Sharpie dot for next time.
 
I had to remove the 2 rear caps on mine today to put the crossbars on.
I really do not like how that process works- feels like you are about to break something every step of the removal.
I did mark the position of the catch tabs with a silver Sharpie dot for next time.

Yup, Those 4 tabs break easily, I broke 1 off the front passenger side but fortunately it still attaches firmly even with 1 tab missing.
 
Yup, Those 4 tabs break easily, I broke 1 off the front passenger side but fortunately it still attaches firmly even with 1 tab missing.
If you ever swing by Chicago send me a pm, I've got 4 black caps that are slightly scratched you can have free. I'd offer to ship them but fed ex and ups been getting way to high lately. I just sent 8 roof rack bolts to a guy and cost me 10 bucks for a tiny envelope!. would probably cost more than new, lol
 
^^^
You're a good man [MENTION=327840]ForRun[/MENTION]. I'd have made the same offer, but I have to wait until the new roof rack gets here before I start yanking the old stuff off. I think I got something like 13-14 more weeks to go...
 
I had to remove the 2 rear caps on mine today to put the crossbars on.
I really do not like how that process works- feels like you are about to break something every step of the removal.
I did mark the position of the catch tabs with a silver Sharpie dot for next time.

Had to look for this. most every video including TRD Jon said use a trim removal tool and a microfiber towel to protect the paint. TRD Jon still dented his roof. This video is what I used and is painless and easy. slide a pick between the rubber and cap, gently pry and tabs pop right out. never touches the painted finish.
watch around 1:40 second mark
YouTube
 
I had seen somewhere where someone said the front tab was 3" from the front and the rear was 7".*
Knowing that I used a plastic trim removal tool, slid it under at those points, sort of pivoted while pulling out and the tabs popped loose easily. No prying on the sheet metal at all. What was concerning is getting the back side to release by pivoting the cover up and in- that is where it really feels like something is about to break.
*The 3" and 7" measurements are close but I marked the tabs exactly in case I ever have to remove the covers again.
BTW I would not attempt this in really cold weather- the plastic may be more brittle.

I would have preferred Toyota spent an extra $1 and used a couple of screws.
 
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