4Th Gen Chat Thread

I'm not sure my question warrants a thread and I have searched with no luck, so I'm posting here.

Has anyone mounted the ARB double compressor (CKMTA12) in a 4th gen under the hood with a V8? I'm considering purchasing and have been working through my mounting options. I prefer to keep it under the hood but my second option is in my storage/sleeping platform in the back and run a hose to the front/rear for access.

Thanks for the input.
 
Does anyone know what tires these are?


c3dc0499827145f8c5e6545c9302fab3.jpg
 
I'm not sure my question warrants a thread and I have searched with no luck, so I'm posting here.

Has anyone mounted the ARB double compressor (CKMTA12) in a 4th gen under the hood with a V8? I'm considering purchasing and have been working through my mounting options. I prefer to keep it under the hood but my second option is in my storage/sleeping platform in the back and run a hose to the front/rear for access.

Thanks for the input.

From what I have seen(searching for image as we speak) most people mount it on the passenger side ontop/behind the fender well right up against the firewall. Hope that helps
 
I'm not sure my question warrants a thread and I have searched with no luck, so I'm posting here.

Has anyone mounted the ARB double compressor (CKMTA12) in a 4th gen under the hood with a V8? I'm considering purchasing and have been working through my mounting options. I prefer to keep it under the hood but my second option is in my storage/sleeping platform in the back and run a hose to the front/rear for access.

Thanks for the input.

From what I have seen(searching for image as we speak) most people mount it on the passenger side ontop/behind the fender well right up against the firewall. Hope that helps
well this is my project today... i was already planning on doing this, and i ran across this thread. i will be doing this in my GX470, so im not sure how different it will be from the 4runner, but they both share the same motor and chassis so its not gonna be too far off. ill post up pics of what i come up with. but in my searching and "test fitting"/looking around yeah that is the only logical location i have found for it without a ton of work and relocation of other items.
 
From what I have seen(searching for image as we speak) most people mount it on the passenger side ontop/behind the fender well right up against the firewall. Hope that helps

Thanks for the input wadle. That is the area I plan on installing but it looks like it will be a tight fit and was hoping someone else had tackled it.

well this is my project today... i was already planning on doing this, and i ran across this thread. i will be doing this in my GX470, so im not sure how different it will be from the 4runner, but they both share the same motor and chassis so its not gonna be too far off. ill post up pics of what i come up with. but in my searching and "test fitting"/looking around yeah that is the only logical location i have found for it without a ton of work and relocation of other items.

Looking forward to your install. The GX looks to have even less room than the 4Runner. Good luck with the install.

The only image I was able to find was from a tacoma which appears to be very similar.
image-jpg.305647
 
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here is mine and the bracket i had to make to mount it... took a few hours but im happy and it only cost me like $10

IMG_20150923_180702555 by Isaac Yocum, on Flickr
IMG_20150922_195529497 by Isaac Yocum, on Flickr
IMG_20150922_195512493 by Isaac Yocum, on
Flickr
IMG_20150922_184232774 by Isaac Yocum, on Flickr
IMG_20150922_184212304 by Isaac Yocum, on Flickr

Looks great . Glad to see it fit in there. I don't have any welding equipment so mine will be a little more basic. It should be in tomorrow and I'm hoping to work on it this weekend.
Thanks for posting yours.
 
I got to work on mine today and it turned out better than I was expecting. The compressor is mounted and wires ran into the cabin and to the battery. I need to get some ring terminals for the battery and I'm waiting on a more factory style switch for the dash. The ARB switch will go in the rear storage area allowing to control from the front or rear of the vehicle.

I used flat corner braces from lower and bent them in the vice as needed. Rubber washers were also used where possible to reduce vibration/noise while using. Red loctite and lock washers were used to prevent future issues.









 
I've kinda been missing my 4runner. I really hope the 16yr old girl who got it as her first car has kept it right side up. I miss this forum too, the Sportsmobile forum is soo boring, like 1 post a day boring.
 
Alignment guru's, I need advice.
I had an alignment done and it continued to pull to the left. I then found my left tie rod was shot. I replaced both being careful to put them in the same spot but it still pulls to the left. Would I adjust the drivers side in a little, or the passenger out? I can't visibly see a bias pointing one way or another on the tires. The wheel tends to be pointed more to the right while driving. Not much, just a little bit.
 
I've kinda been missing my 4runner. I really hope the 16yr old girl who got it as her first car has kept it right side up. I miss this forum too, the Sportsmobile forum is soo boring, like 1 post a day boring.

Probably because all those old farts driving those sportsmobiles don't use the worldwide web. . . . .or maybe they are always off grid and cant log on. Glad to have you visit us back here. But really. . . .come back to the dark side. . .buy it back from the girl! :tape:
 
I'm pulling my busted CV Axle tomorrow, any hints, tips or tricks?
[MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION]

Do I really need a brass punch to pop it in, and a slide hammer to pull it?

I've heard mixed answers to that.

Also, which grease should I lube the inner seal with?
 
I'm pulling my busted CV Axle tomorrow, any hints, tips or tricks?

[MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION]

Do I really need a brass punch to pop it in, and a slide hammer to pull it?

I've heard mixed answers to that.

Also, which grease should I lube the inner seal with?

Depends on how rusted up your 4Runner is. I normally use a punch to tap the shaft out of the hub as it gets a light coat of rust and gets stuck in there even in Northern California weather. As for a slide hammer, I haven't had to use one for a long time; though to be honest I normally just "bump" the axle with a pry bar on one of the cut-outs (basically just rest the prybar on the cut-out and against the frame and apply some pressure and then just sort of whack/bump the bar to give it a "impact" type feel, usually pops them out pretty easy.)

Best thing I can recommend for older saltier vehicles... LOTS of PB Blaster or stronger rust penetrating oil, let it soak in real good, and take your time; don't do the job unless you can take your time and do it right (and it will probably take a while, the rule of thumb I've learned and experienced many times is that out of a shop environment with a lift; mechanical work takes about 2~3 times longer at minimum.)
 
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I've kinda been missing my 4runner. I really hope the 16yr old girl who got it as her first car has kept it right side up. I miss this forum too, the Sportsmobile forum is soo boring, like 1 post a day boring.

I should probably make business cards or something to carry around. If I get around to talking to a customer who has a 4Runner and they seem a bit interested in working/modding/looking for information I'll direct them to both T4R & T120 to check it out.
 
Depends on how rusted up your 4Runner is. I normally use a punch to tap the shaft out of the hub as it gets a light coat of rust and gets stuck in there even in Northern California weather. As for a slide hammer, I haven't had to use one for a long time; though to be honest I normally just "bump" the axle with a pry bar on one of the cut-outs (basically just rest the prybar on the cut-out and against the frame and apply some pressure and then just sort of whack/bump the bar to give it a "impact" type feel, usually pops them out pretty easy.)

Best thing I can recommend for older saltier vehicles... LOTS of PB Blaster or stronger rust penetrating oil, let it soak in real good, and take your time; don't do the job unless you can take your time and do it right (and it will probably take a while, the rule of thumb I've learned and experienced many times is that out of a shop environment with a lift; mechanical work takes about 2~3 times longer at minimum.)

Thanks!! I have all day tomorrow and a covered space. I will for sure take my time.
 
What size wrench do I need to change the rear end links? Also any tricks on getting that top nut off? Looks like it will be pretty tedious.
 
I'm pulling my busted CV Axle tomorrow, any hints, tips or tricks?

[MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION]

Do I really need a brass punch to pop it in, and a slide hammer to pull it?

I've heard mixed answers to that.

Also, which grease should I lube the inner seal with?

I just did my driver side CV axle for the first time ever about a month ago.

Found some great threads on this forum. Read through this one.

This page helped a ton! Brought the laptop out with me so I could watch the video. Its an FJ, but basically its the same.

I used a pry bar to get it out, and I used a metal fence post and a sledge to get it back in... long story. Anyway, next time a better prybar than what I had would do the job, with GENTLE taps from the sledge... but basically, no you don't need a punch or a slide to do it.

I had also bought a new oil seal, new knuckle seal, front diff crush gasket (when I needed to top off my diff... another longer story, but you may want to), and red loctite (for LCA bolts).

I just greased the seal with 75/90 gear oil.

Just when you think that thing won't come out, it will. Just when you never think you will get that CV back in,and you are cursing yourself for attempting this fix, it will go!

Plan to take your time and good luck!
 
I just did my driver side CV axle for the first time ever about a month ago.

Found some great threads on this forum. Read through this one.

This page helped a ton! Brought the laptop out with me so I could watch the video. Its an FJ, but basically its the same.

I used a pry bar to get it out, and I used a metal fence post and a sledge to get it back in... long story. Anyway, next time a better prybar than what I had would do the job, with GENTLE taps from the sledge... but basically, no you don't need a punch or a slide to do it.

I had also bought a new oil seal, new knuckle seal, front diff crush gasket (when I needed to top off my diff... another longer story, but you may want to), and red loctite (for LCA bolts).

I just greased the seal with 75/90 gear oil.

Just when you think that thing won't come out, it will. Just when you never think you will get that CV back in,and you are cursing yourself for attempting this fix, it will go!

Plan to take your time and good luck!

This is exactly how it went!

Thanks for the advice man, it really really helped!
 
What size wrench do I need to change the rear end links? Also any tricks on getting that top nut off? Looks like it will be pretty tedious.

I'm not sure if you took care of this already but wanted to make you are aware that Toyota uses special hardware for the suspension bits. Either the bolt head or the nut will have sharp points (anti slip) that help with maintaining torque. Be sure to NOT spin the bolt or the nut that have these protrusions. Otherwise, you'll dull up these protrusions and ruin their effect. Just a FYI.
 

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