4th Gen cv axle/joint boot replacing

arwin_s

New member
Looking for info on how to change the inner cv joint boot or the whole cv axle assembly.

While changing brake pads and ultimately replacing a caliper due to a frozen piston (it wasnt as bad as it sounds) I discovered my inner cv boot is torn on the drivers side.

Previously for sake of time I had the dealership replace a passenger side boot. While I paid a bit amount of money for labor I did in return same some of my own time. This time around Id like to see if I can save myself a lot of the money by doing it myself, or with the assistance of some friends.

I am outweighing the options. Is it better to just replace the whole driver side cv axle itself or attempt to replace the inner boot? From the looks of it now we are looking at an approximate price difference of $40 (boot vs axle).

For those with experience please chime in. If you can, include part #'s and or links for reference.

Additionally, I did a search for cv joint boot and cv axle change/repair but returned up with nothing. I would assume this has been discussed here before.


Thank you in advance.
 
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just use "cv axle" in the search bar. that will get you what you need. here is hot from when I did it.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/101038-how-install-new-cv-axles.html

CV axels are not hard. Best tools are a 3lb hammer and a short prybar. I have heard you can do a boot repair kit off of ebay for $15. for me, my time is more valuable than that. If I am going to pull the axle anyway, might as well put a new one in.


BUT, please remember to replace the inner axle seal (rubber gasket/o-ring thing). it is located in the differential housing. I have done three cvs and I forgot to do this last time. Now I have a leak.
 
If you're just rebooting, there's no need to remove the axle from the differential and having to replace that seal. Just remove the outer end from the hub, remove the inner boot clamps and the inner joint slides apart leaving the cup in place in the diff.
 
All this info has be great.


If you're just rebooting, there's no need to remove the axle from the differential and having to replace that seal. Just remove the outer end from the hub, remove the inner boot clamps and the inner joint slides apart leaving the cup in place in the diff.


Question, is there a thread, and/or link you can reference?
 
I know that CV boots are sold everywhere so does it matter where you buy them from? Or, just get the OEM boots for the best fitment?
 
Yep, I'm running Beck-Arnly brand from Rock Auto for like $11 bucks for boot, grease, and clamps. They fit fine, and of course were way better than the work out 9 year old 100k mile boots, although OEM would always be the best. I swapped the clamps out for a worm drive marine style instead.
 
cv axle boots

The link that blackoutt posted is very good. Like he said, the tulip joint stays in the diff, negating the need for seal replacement. I went with the factory boot kit and grease, and yeah, it's messy, but not too bad. Also I found that I needed two types of clamp pliers to crimp the bands in place, found them on Amazon, and they were pretty reasonable. I guess you could go with stainless hose clamps, and if I had to do it again, I probably would.
 
If the boot is ripped, the axle is going to go bad shortly there after. I'd just replace the whole thing and be done with it. Unless budget is a huge issue, which I can relate to haha
 
Do you know what the deal with #5 is?

5)Remove the CV shaft with a piece of wood and sledge... Use something soft on the shaft side and something heavy on the other side of it.

It relates to the 3rd picture in that write up where he's got the piece of wood on the end of the CV shaft where he just removed the big 35mm nut. The shaft will be seated into the spindle and may take some persuading to knock the wheel end loose. If your axle nut wasn't torqued properly it also might just fall out.
 
5)Remove the CV shaft with a piece of wood and sledge... Use something soft on the shaft side and something heavy on the other side of it.

It relates to the 3rd picture in that write up where he's got the piece of wood on the end of the CV shaft where he just removed the big 35mm nut. The shaft will be seated into the spindle and may take some persuading to knock the wheel end loose. If your axle nut wasn't torqued properly it also might just fall out.

Oh alrighty, gotcha. Thank you
 

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