4th gen fuel pump question

Ju1cE82

New member
Any one out here done a fuel pump on your 4th gen? How many miles did you have when it needed changed? Any recommended brands to look for or avoid?

I have 190K on mine and have a 3kish mile trip coming up and need it to 100% reliable during this trip (business related)

Any other recommendations on making it uber-reliable? I am thinking of throwing a starter on it for funs as well....
 
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I'd be interested in knowing what all this entails too--have 203,000 on my 04 and wouldn't mind doing this if it wasn't too hard for a mechanically inclined person.
 
Fuel pump is located in a plastic carrier that houses a few other things (i.e. fuel tank sender, return line, ect.)

To replace the fuel pump you need to drop the fuel tank and remove the assembly, then partially dissasemble it to get the fuel pump itself out.

Depending on which engine you have a starter is easy, V6 isn't an issue; V8 is located between the cylinderheads in the valley (if its a VVTi V8 that's even more PITA because you have the secondary air valves to deal with before you can get the starter out).

Honestly, if it ain't broke I wouldn't worry about it; have you been having fuel starvation issues lately?
 
Fuel pump is located in a plastic carrier that houses a few other things (i.e. fuel tank sender, return line, ect.)

To replace the fuel pump you need to drop the fuel tank and remove the assembly, then partially dissasemble it to get the fuel pump itself out.

Depending on which engine you have a starter is easy, V6 isn't an issue; V8 is located between the cylinderheads in the valley (if its a VVTi V8 that's even more PITA because you have the secondary air valves to deal with before you can get the starter out).

Honestly, if it ain't broke I wouldn't worry about it; have you been having fuel starvation issues lately?
if it were me doing it, I would replace that entire unit. the entire module.

Drop the tank? The access panel under the left side rear seat won't get me there...boo/hiss
it only gives 2hrs for the labor. it shouldn't be too bad, assuming you do it when the fuel level is down.


though, if it were me, I wouldn't mess with it. the pump, nor the starter.
 
Drop the tank? The access panel under the left side rear seat won't get me there...boo/hiss

That's how it is on Land Cruisers. Open the secret hatch and everything comes out and is accessible from underneath the 2nd row seat.
 
That's how it is on Land Cruisers. Open the secret hatch and everything comes out and is accessible from underneath the 2nd row seat.

Not big enough per [MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] write up.

To the OP, there is being proactive which I get but you will never be able to guess what will fail next. What if your ignition coils go out or ignition cylinder? Too many possibilities...
 
Any one out here done a fuel pump on your 4th gen? How many miles did you have when it needed changed? Any recommended brands to look for or avoid?

I have 190K on mine and have a 3kish mile trip coming up and need it to 100% reliable during this trip (business related)

Any other recommendations on making it uber-reliable? I am thinking of throwing a starter on it for funs as well....

With the endless possibilities of random things going wrong, and the cost of the items you already mentioned, it might be worth while looking into a rental for the trip. Not saying it would be cheap, but if it is peace of mind you are looking for, it might be worth it in the long run.
 
if it were me doing it, I would replace that entire unit. the entire module.

it only gives 2hrs for the labor. it shouldn't be too bad, assuming you do it when the fuel level is down.

though, if it were me, I wouldn't mess with it. the pump, nor the starter.

Really? 2hrs, what were you looking at for labor quote out of curiosity?

The only issue is that getting the whole "Module" is not very easy anymore, I can't remember if there was a part number for the whole assembly; but last time I looked no online parts suppliers had the entire thing. Not to mention last price quote I saw was $700+ for the whole thing and that was years ago.

Not big enough per [MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] write up.

To the OP, there is being proactive which I get but you will never be able to guess what will fail next. What if your ignition coils go out or ignition cylinder? Too many possibilities...

I don't recall doing a write-up for dropping the fuel tank, you might be confusing me with another member's thread I may have commented in.

But yeah, the access hole under the 2nd row seat is for disconnecting the fuel lines and electrical connectors, it's too small to pull the whole unit out of (why I have no idea). There was a member who cut his open more and made a custom cover plate so he didn't have to drop the tank if I remember right.
 
#2 SR5 is pushing 225,000 on fuel pump and 250,000 on the starter without any problems.
Things that have broken the master cylinder, front calipers, key inside the ignition switch, all things I didn't plan for.
Things happen. Take a credit card, cell phone with a charger cord and go.
 
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Really? 2hrs, what were you looking at for labor quote out of curiosity?

The only issue is that getting the whole "Module" is not very easy anymore, I can't remember if there was a part number for the whole assembly; but last time I looked no online parts suppliers had the entire thing. Not to mention last price quote I saw was $700+ for the whole thing and that was years ago.
Weblink 2, I think it uses Mitchell. I just checked again, yep, 2 hours.

weird, I had looked for a pump a few months ago, and I was sure they listed one. checked again, and you're right, not available. though, they are showing a $495 list price, with a $470 cost. which is very odd...
 
Weblink 2, I think it uses Mitchell. I just checked again, yep, 2 hours.

weird, I had looked for a pump a few months ago, and I was sure they listed one. checked again, and you're right, not available. though, they are showing a $495 list price, with a $470 cost. which is very odd...

The "Tube Assembly, Fuel Pump w/ Gauge" is Part Number: 77020-35060 (Item 77020A in the diagram) and is not showing as available. You might be able to get it from a dealer, but I'm not entirely sure? I'm swamped at work all this week so I probably won't remember/have time to bug the parts guy to run the number for me.

The Fuel Pump (just the pump motor itself, no o-rings, sock filter, ect) is Part Number: 23221-50100 (Item 23221 in the diagram) and is looking about $200 off their website, so probably closer to $250~300 retail/dealership pricing if not more. But you'd still want to get the sock, o-rings, and secondary filter as well, if not the fuel tank gauge assembly (because do you really want to have it fail sometime later and have to pull the tank out again just for it?), which can get pricey fast. I'm not sure the quality of aftermarket assemblies to be honest with you; probably the only ones I would trust would be if maybe Denso or Asin made one; maybe a Bosch one?

https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/gen...Te1ENAnNXB18dMFg$&vid=223429&cid=3&uid=260910
 
I don't recall doing a write-up for dropping the fuel tank, you might be confusing me with another member's thread I may have commented in.

But yeah, the access hole under the 2nd row seat is for disconnecting the fuel lines and electrical connectors, it's too small to pull the whole unit out of (why I have no idea). There was a member who cut his open more and made a custom cover plate so he didn't have to drop the tank if I remember right.

Not a write up but more a comment/rant about Toyota engineering providing an access panel, but that the panel is too small to be able to pull the fuel pump out through it :mad2:

Just one of those info nuggets that stuck with me about the fuel pump :cowboy:
 
Thanks for the info guys, never opened the the little cover but saw it when shampooing the carpets. But yeah why not make it big enough?! I would have disassembled the unit and replaced the pump (3rd or 4th pump "assembly" I would have done this on, typically just held together with plastic clips, small screw driver and some care/ patience)

....but in the last few days I have been at 3 different dealers a total of 4 times and have 99% settled on purchasing a new NV200 mini-cargo van. It will be substantially easier to park/ maneuver than my 4Runner w/ trailer (although I really do love the 4Runner) as I work in downtown areas and need to be able to easily park in parking garages. Much better fuel economy and (if nothing else) the perception of being more reliable.

So I guess look forward to 05 V8 Sport w/ 191K popping up in the For Sale sometime soon...

Have owned the truck for ~6 months, 5500 miles and have done/ replaced:
2nd synth oil change last Sunday
Front/ Rear/ Transfer fluids with Synth
Drain and Fill on Trans (fluid was dark but not terrible, planned on doing it again @ ~196k)
Full timing belt kit
Serp belt with tensioner, idler (have fan bearing bracket new but not installed, was back ordered)
Alternator
A/C Compressor
All four calipers
All four shocks
Radiator
Sway Bar bushings

Does have some mild body damage (side swipe on driver's side) and some rust underneath but mechanical condition was way more important to me

I love this truck and was building it for 30K un-interrupted miles for my new business. No matter how bad I wanted 4Runner, it was the wrong choice, would love to keep it for a personal but already have too many.

...but I digress

This forum has been a great source of info, even if it is mostly lift kits and LEDS :lol:
 
Thanks for the info guys, never opened the the little cover but saw it when shampooing the carpets. But yeah why not make it big enough?! I would have disassembled the unit and replaced the pump (3rd or 4th pump "assembly" I would have done this on, typically just held together with plastic clips, small screw driver and some care/ patience)

....but in the last few days I have been at 3 different dealers a total of 4 times and have 99% settled on purchasing a new NV200 mini-cargo van. It will be substantially easier to park/ maneuver than my 4Runner w/ trailer (although I really do love the 4Runner) as I work in downtown areas and need to be able to easily park in parking garages. Much better fuel economy and (if nothing else) the perception of being more reliable.

So I guess look forward to 05 V8 Sport w/ 191K popping up in the For Sale sometime soon...

Have owned the truck for ~6 months, 5500 miles and have done/ replaced:
2nd synth oil change last Sunday
Front/ Rear/ Transfer fluids with Synth
Drain and Fill on Trans (fluid was dark but not terrible, planned on doing it again @ ~196k)
Full timing belt kit
Serp belt with tensioner, idler (have fan bearing bracket new but not installed, was back ordered)
Alternator
A/C Compressor
All four calipers
All four shocks
Radiator
Sway Bar bushings

Does have some mild body damage (side swipe on driver's side) and some rust underneath but mechanical condition was way more important to me

I love this truck and was building it for 30K un-interrupted miles for my new business. No matter how bad I wanted 4Runner, it was the wrong choice, would love to keep it for a personal but already have too many.

...but I digress

This forum has been a great source of info, even if it is mostly lift kits and LEDS :lol:

If it ain't broke, then I wouldn't worry about it. I replaced my GF's fuel pump due to debris in the tank that was causing a starvation issue. She now has 120k miles on the vehicle so this must have been around 100k mile mark. My fuel pump is going strong at 320xxx miles.

When it comes to doing my fuel pump, i'll just make that access hole larger rather than dealing with dropping the tank. I think she ended up purchasing her pump from the dealer, can't recall the price. But, I seem to recall a site that carried the Denso pump for a decent price. Not sure where I saw that though.
 
p0171 p0174

Hi All,

I didn't want to start a new thread but I believe I'm having fuel delivery issues.

My V8 4runner is throwing P0171 & P0174 codes and I'm trying to track down the problem. Hopefully someone can help me out.

Symptoms are hesitation when climbing hills at cruising speed. Issue began last spring but it never threw a code until around December.

I have ruled out the MAF, both A/F sensors and both 02 sensors. I also have cleaned the throttle body and checked for vacuum leaks. Replaced PCV valve and hose.

I have high long term fuel trims in both banks at cruising speed. It ranges 21-40% on both banks. Under hard acceleration the LTFT drops back down to 4.7%.

I read on the tundra forums about the 4.7s having a 2 stage fuel pump. Can anyone elaborate on that?
 
Hi All,

I didn't want to start a new thread but I believe I'm having fuel delivery issues.

My V8 4runner is throwing P0171 & P0174 codes and I'm trying to track down the problem. Hopefully someone can help me out.

Symptoms are hesitation when climbing hills at cruising speed. Issue began last spring but it never threw a code until around December.

I have ruled out the MAF, both A/F sensors and both 02 sensors. I also have cleaned the throttle body and checked for vacuum leaks. Replaced PCV valve and hose.

I have high long term fuel trims in both banks at cruising speed. It ranges 21-40% on both banks. Under hard acceleration the LTFT drops back down to 4.7%.

I read on the tundra forums about the 4.7s having a 2 stage fuel pump. Can anyone elaborate on that?

having similar problems, any closure on this??
 
Never run your fuel level below 1/4 tank, and the fuel pump will outlast the vehicle. Keeping the pump motor submerged in gas keeps it cooled.
 
having similar problems, any closure on this??

I did end up testing the fuel pressure and it was indeed low. I bought a fuel pressure test kit on Amazon. I replaced the fuel pump and it fixed my problems.

What said above about not running your tank low is right. I used to always see how far I could get on a tank of gas, that most likely led to premature failure of the pump. I fill up more often now.

best of luck!
 

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