4th Gen Suspension Options/FAQ

I really can't express how awesome the T4R.org community is. Thanks ARK.

I actually just got done saying this in another thread that I was thread-jacking... lol. But I'm admittedly probably not going to do anything lift-wise until the summer. But I'm slowly working at acquiring the parts needed, so it's not a big hit all at once when the time comes.

My few limiting factors that are effecting my decision on what lift to go with are:

1.) Garage door height. This will be remedied by replacing the current probably 1970's garage door opener, which will allow the door to travel the crucial extra 2" or so that I need! Just need to replace that cheaply on my own time.

2.) Know-how. I've done a fair amount of vehicle DIY in my day, but this in general has me nervous... One piece of this is the fact that I live in Western PA, and they like to throw lots of SALT anytime there's even a dusting of snow... I've already decided that I'll likely just need to buy Poly sway bar bushings and links, because it could use the upgrade anyway, and I might end up needing to cut some bolts off with the angle grinder or a sawzall... Other bolts might be rough as well.

3.) Install shops (if needed) If the Harbor Freight spring compressor i picked up isn't up to the job, or I just feel I can't handle it half way through.

4.) Some of my long-term effects stuff mentioned above that have already been answered, but still have me nervous, like wear on the ball joints over time?

5.) Decision on which lift to go with... 95% of my driving will be on-road. I want to keep the ole' girl stable. If I go with the much easier Daystar, then I'm not adding any firmness to the ride, to compensate for going up 3" overall (with tires). Family safety means a lot to me, and lets face it, I sometimes drive like an a**h*** and take bends faster than I should and don't want extra body lean... So that takes me to Bilsteins, and the ideal lift for me with the Billies would be Billies set at the .85" level, with a .5" (1" net" topout spacer) like the one from Cornfed to go with it, so it only gets a little firmer. Then, a 1" rear lift would be the right height to match - also from Cornfed... But these are pretty expensive options... But then of course, the wife likes the current smooth ride... Or I could just swap out the springs front/back for FJ's +.5" spacer (1" net) up front and keep the stock shocks... (This will be a decision I need to make thsat no one can really help with.)

6.) Finally, I have the Air Lift 1000 bags in my rear coils that I wish to keep - especially now that I'm taking some of the rake out. The bump-stops are currently cut to stock height for the bags, as per instructions and the fact that it is/was stock when I put them in. Additionally, I need to hope I left enough slack in the lines to allow for more lift. But mostly, the question pertains to how the bags themselves will work with the bump stops cut too far, and if there's an easy way to add something back in there to make up for the difference?


Pheww... Alright, I think that about sums up my concerns. Some of this stuff can be answered, and some are just my own unfounded fears...
 
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OK, so here's my story: I have a 2003 T4R V8 currently sitting on daystar 2.5/1.5. The problem: looking for more!!! LIFT so I got a pair of fj spring and plan on buying wheel spacers.1.25 or 1.5 Unsure if everythings going to work. Ohh btw I have stock fj wheels with 265/70/17 tires, I'm expecting a little rub, but what else (problems) should I expect..
Im I the only one with this much lift. and a big thanks to ARK:zoom:
 
I really can't express how awesome the T4R.org community is. Thanks ARK.

I actually just got done saying this in another thread that I was thread-jacking... lol. But I'm admittedly probably not going to do anything lift-wise until the summer. But I'm slowly working at acquiring the parts needed, so it's not a big hit all at once when the time comes.

My few limiting factors that are effecting my decision on what lift to go with are:

1.) Garage door height. This will be remedied by replacing the current probably 1970's garage door opener, which will allow the door to travel the crucial extra 2" or so that I need! Just need to replace that cheaply on my own time.

2.) Know-how. I've done a fair amount of vehicle DIY in my day, but this in general has me nervous... One piece of this is the fact that I live in Western PA, and they like to throw lots of SALT anytime there's even a dusting of snow... I've already decided that I'll likely just need to buy Poly sway bar bushings and links, because it could use the upgrade anyway, and I might end up needing to cut some bolts off with the angle grinder or a sawzall... Other bolts might be rough as well.

3.) Install shops (if needed) If the Harbor Freight spring compressor i picked up isn't up to the job, or I just feel I can't handle it half way through.

4.) Some of my long-term effects stuff mentioned above that have already been answered, but still have me nervous, like wear on the ball joints over time?

5.) Decision on which lift to go with... 95% of my driving will be on-road. I want to keep the ole' girl stable. If I go with the much easier Daystar, then I'm not adding any firmness to the ride, to compensate for going up 3" overall (with tires). Family safety means a lot to me, and lets face it, I sometimes drive like an a**h*** and take bends faster than I should and don't want extra body lean... So that takes me to Bilsteins, and the ideal lift for me with the Billies would be Billies set at the .85" level, with a .5" (1" net" topout spacer) like the one from Cornfed to go with it, so it only gets a little firmer. Then, a 1" rear lift would be the right height to match - also from Cornfed... But these are pretty expensive options... But then of course, the wife likes the current smooth ride... Or I could just swap out the springs front/back for FJ's +.5" spacer (1" net) up front and keep the stock shocks... (This will be a decision I need to make thsat no one can really help with.)

6.) Finally, I have the Air Lift 1000 bags in my rear coils that I wish to keep - especially now that I'm taking some of the rake out. The bump-stops are currently cut to stock height for the bags, as per instructions and the fact that it is/was stock when I put them in. Additionally, I need to hope I left enough slack in the lines to allow for more lift. But mostly, the question pertains to how the bags themselves will work with the bump stops cut too far, and if there's an easy way to add something back in there to make up for the difference?


Pheww... Alright, I think that about sums up my concerns. Some of this stuff can be answered, and some are just my own unfounded fears...

1) Haha, can't help there!

2) The install is very easy for the new style Daystar spacers. The only issue is as you mentioned, rust. That could complicate things. I'd advise you to read the install guides, and start soaking all the bolts you'll need to touch with wd-40 or similar. I'd probably start a week before, then re-coat each day. This won't guarantee a painless install, but will definitely help out.

3) Make sure you get the new style Daystar kit and there's no spring compressor needed. If you're swapping coils or using a kit that requires disassembling the strut, there's also a method of doing the install without a spring compressor. Here's a write-up on it.

4) With a mild lift (up to 3"), I personally do not believe there will be any noticeable increase in wear. Yes, there will be "more" wear, but not enough to be a concern. Many people have logged thousands of miles with no issues. I currently have about 40k miles on my 4runner since it's been lifted, which has over 160k miles currently. The only issue that I've seen is the CV boots leaking. This is very common (even some on none lifted 4runners). Replace the bands with hose clamps, and it will not leak again. Very easy fix if it becomes an issue.

5) All good options for you. I don't think you'll notice a big difference in handling with the Daystar. There shouldn't be more lean since you're not changing spring rate with the Daystar kit. A great option for you would be a full FJ suspension from a Trail Teams or TRD FJ. These will be Bilstein shocks and you benefit in the fact that it'll be a full assembly, nothing to add (just a spacer). If you're not happy with the ride, you can easily swap the stock suspension back on and sell the FJ stuff (should have no issues here due to the popularity of the FJ swap). The FJ setup or 5100/FJ setup rides much, much smoother than the stock setup. Bumps are felt less. Imperfections in the road that were noticeable before are no longer felt. Since you do not have XREAS, nose dive and cornering should be improved as well.

6) I've not used the aftermarket rear air bags, so I can't say this for certain. To my knowledge, the bump stop is simply trimmed for clearance and has no affect on the functionality of the air bags. Unless you go with lift coils such as OME or Toytec Superflex, everything should be fine. Even with FJ coils, you shouldn't have any trouble. Hopefully someone with air bags can confirm this for you.
 
OK, so here's my story: I have a 2003 T4R V8 currently sitting on daystar 2.5/1.5. The problem: looking for more!!! LIFT so I got a pair of fj spring and plan on buying wheel spacers.1.25 or 1.5 Unsure if everythings going to work. Ohh btw I have stock fj wheels with 265/70/17 tires, I'm expecting a little rub, but what else (problems) should I expect..
Im I the only one with this much lift. and a big thanks to ARK:zoom:

The FJ coils should give you ~.5" all around, so you'll end up with a 3/2" lift. 1/2" really isn't that noticeable, but the FJ upgrade is great and very well worth it. A 3/2 lift is about the most you can safely go. If you want more lift, it's time to look at a body lift.

For wheel spacers, go with 1.25" if you get them. The FJ wheels already stick out further than the 4runner wheels, 1.5" would be way too much IMO.

That should all work well together. The only thing is getting too much lift for your tires, everyone has their own opinion here. No other problems to expect, just be prepared to deal with a little rubbing.

I'm currently at 3.5" suspension and 1/2" body, 4" total lift. I also have aftermarket UCA's which allow you to get the alignment back into spec. I also have the understanding that at over 3" of lift, I will have increased wear on certain parts. You *can* go over 3", just takes more to get it done and you need to understand the risks associated with it.
 
Thanks as always Ark. I'll make up my mind someday here... Guess since I now have the FJ rears, I should use em. And since I have the rear air lift 1000's, I should just keep it simple to start and go with no rear spacer with the FJ's. Which brings me back to aiming at 1.5-2'' up front being ideal. Might as well go with 5100's @ .85 + daystar 1'' net. Just sucks how easy the daystar 2.5'' lift is... I also don't wanna get the lift bug and end up wanting more too though...

I think I'll leave your thread alone for awhile and quit cluttering it up with my indecisiveness... I guess the only advantage is someone reading through and seeing how people come to their lift ideas!


- Sent via Tapatalk for Android
 
Thanks as always Ark. I'll make up my mind someday here... Guess since I now have the FJ rears, I should use em. And since I have the rear air lift 1000's, I should just keep it simple to start and go with no rear spacer with the FJ's. Which brings me back to aiming at 1.5-2'' up front being ideal. Might as well go with 5100's @ .85 + daystar 1'' net. Just sucks how easy the daystar 2.5'' lift is... I also don't wanna get the lift bug and end up wanting more too though...

I think I'll leave your thread alone for awhile and quit cluttering it up with my indecisiveness... I guess the only advantage is someone reading through and seeing how people come to their lift ideas!


- Sent via Tapatalk for Android

Daystar does not make a 1" net lift spacer. They make a budget boost spacer that is advertised as 1", but in reality it's 1" of material and give 2" of lift. If you go that route and stock rear, you wouldn't want the 5100's adjusted to provide lift.

Check out the FJ thread linked to in my sig. On the chart, I believe a few are using the Daystar with FJ coils and rear air bags. Perhaps they can answer your question about the bump stop.

I'll say this, I'm on my 4th lift setup, and I'm probably still not done. I would have been much better off to spend the money and get it right the first time. If you want it, don't talk yourself out of it for the small reasons. Get what you want, or else chances are that you will be upgrading again in a few months.
 
Hey guys, to be honest I'm feeling a little overwhelmed with the amount of info in all these related threads on FJ coils and spacer lifts so I'm just going to lay out my plan and hopefully you can share your thoughts and opinions.

Starting with an 05' V6 4x4 limited.

I will be swapping out the OEM suspension with FJ stock suspension. I will clarify by noting that the FJ suspension is complete (stock front coil overs and rear coils and shocks). I've also decided on some spidertrax 1.25" wheel spacers just to kick the wheels out a bit for aesthetics. I'll be running 255/75/17 Hankook DynaPro ATM RF10 tires on 17" 06' Sport wheels.

Now, what I'm after is some info on what else will be required in order to run this setup without any rubbing or forward rake?

If this has been covered a thousand times I apologize in advance. I have done several searches and have read several threads and to tell you the truth they have all kind of melded together in my head.

Cheers
 
Hey guys, to be honest I'm feeling a little overwhelmed with the amount of info in all these related threads on FJ coils and spacer lifts so I'm just going to lay out my plan and hopefully you can share your thoughts and opinions.

Starting with an 05' V6 4x4 limited.

I will be swapping out the OEM suspension with FJ stock suspension. I will clarify by noting that the FJ suspension is complete (stock front coil overs and rear coils and shocks). I've also decided on some spidertrax 1.25" wheel spacers just to kick the wheels out a bit for aesthetics. I'll be running 255/75/17 Hankook DynaPro ATM RF10 tires on 17" 06' Sport wheels.

Now, what I'm after is some info on what else will be required in order to run this setup without any rubbing or forward rake?

If this has been covered a thousand times I apologize in advance. I have done several searches and have read several threads and to tell you the truth they have all kind of melded together in my head.

Cheers

Should be able to just add the toytec 1'' net topout spacer to what you just mentioned.

http://www.toyteclifts.com/index.ph...tegory_id=109&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=72

Wait, scratch that, you have v6. Go with the 1/2'' net spacers instead:

http://www.toyteclifts.com/index.ph...tegory_id=109&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=72

Just add that to what you mentioned and you're good to go!


- Sent via Tapatalk for Android
 
Hey guys, to be honest I'm feeling a little overwhelmed with the amount of info in all these related threads on FJ coils and spacer lifts so I'm just going to lay out my plan and hopefully you can share your thoughts and opinions.

Starting with an 05' V6 4x4 limited.

I will be swapping out the OEM suspension with FJ stock suspension. I will clarify by noting that the FJ suspension is complete (stock front coil overs and rear coils and shocks). I've also decided on some spidertrax 1.25" wheel spacers just to kick the wheels out a bit for aesthetics. I'll be running 255/75/17 Hankook DynaPro ATM RF10 tires on 17" 06' Sport wheels.

Now, what I'm after is some info on what else will be required in order to run this setup without any rubbing or forward rake?

If this has been covered a thousand times I apologize in advance. I have done several searches and have read several threads and to tell you the truth they have all kind of melded together in my head.

Cheers

As long as the shocks are from a 2007-2009 FJ, that will be all unless you want to add a spacer as mentioned above. 2010+ shocks will require modification to fit, but no actual parts are needed for this.


You'll need to move the fender liners forward, that should be all to prevent rubbing. I had almost that exact setup (stock shocks, not fj) and had no issues other than the liner.

That said, I would not buy those tires. I had poor luck with them. I pulled mine with over 50% tread left because I didn't feel safe driving on them, wet traction was terrible. Driving in rain felt like driving on snow, can't imagine what driving on snow/ice would be like.
 

So that 1/2" spacer will level it out?
 
As long as the shocks are from a 2007-2009 FJ, that will be all unless you want to add a spacer as mentioned above. 2010+ shocks will require modification to fit, but no actual parts are needed for this.


You'll need to move the fender liners forward, that should be all to prevent rubbing. I had almost that exact setup (stock shocks, not fj) and had no issues other than the liner.

That said, I would not buy those tires. I had poor luck with them. I pulled mine with over 50% tread left because I didn't feel safe driving on them, wet traction was terrible. Driving in rain felt like driving on snow, can't imagine what driving on snow/ice would be like.

Thanks Swamp! I'm glad I asked, I actually read some of your old post regarding those particular tires and they sounded very promising. The 4runner will be our primary kid hauler so safety is of great importance. Do you have any suggestions for a similar tire? How about the Cooper AT3?
 
Thanks Swamp! I'm glad I asked, I actually read some of your old post regarding those particular tires and they sounded very promising. The 4runner will be our primary kid hauler so safety is of great importance. Do you have any suggestions for a similar tire? How about the Cooper AT3?

I was very happy for the first 15k miles, after that they were a huge disappointment. I don't have experience with those, but I believe a couple folks here purchased them recently, there were some posts on them. Bridgestone Revo 2s are great tires, along with the Firestone Destination AT.

The tires were bad enough that my wife asked me to replace them, and she doesn't like spending money on mods and such. I almost put the 4runner in the ditch one night as we were pulling out onto the highway, that was all it took for me. The issue isn't only standing water, this was on damp pavement. Thankfully the 4runner has a great traction control system and this really helped us out. I would understand if they were near the end of their life, but mine had 50-60% tread left.
 
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I have a question for you guys regarding the FJ springs. I keep hearing/reading that FJ springs are stiffer than the OEM ones. Now for my needs I would like stiffer springs but I do NOT want the lift associated with the FJ springs and since I'm a V6 2wd I'm assuming I'll get the most amount of lift with these springs. However I have some questions. Do you use 4wd springs or 2wd springs, again I'm assuming the 4x4 but would the 2wd have the same stiffness as the 4x4 ones? Are the springs themselves adding to the handling characteristics or is it a combination of shocks (bilsteins) with the springs. I was planing on running the red TRD shocks with my stock springs but I would like stiffer springs however I was thinking the lift would negate my goals for improved handling.
 
I have a question for you guys regarding the FJ springs. I keep hearing/reading that FJ springs are stiffer than the OEM ones. Now for my needs I would like stiffer springs but I do NOT want the lift associated with the FJ springs and since I'm a V6 2wd I'm assuming I'll get the most amount of lift with these springs. However I have some questions. Do you use 4wd springs or 2wd springs, again I'm assuming the 4x4 but would the 2wd have the same stiffness as the 4x4 ones? Are the springs themselves adding to the handling characteristics or is it a combination of shocks (bilsteins) with the springs. I was planing on running the red TRD shocks with my stock springs but I would like stiffer springs however I was thinking the lift would negate my goals for improved handling.

We're using coils from a 4wd. I don't know if it is height or stiffness, but the 4wd coils provide more lift than the 2wd coils. I'll do some looking and see if I can come up with a better answer.
 
Well I just ordered the TRD bilsteins for an 07 FJ and should be here tuesday. Installation should be later in the week. I'm looking forward to it.
 
Well I just ordered the TRD bilsteins for an 07 FJ and should be here tuesday. Installation should be later in the week. I'm looking forward to it.

Did you order shocks only? I never found a definitive answer to the coil question. The 2wd fj sits about 2"lower, but no idea if its coil rate or length that causes this. I found a lot of speculation, no solid answers though.
 
Shocks only, I never found a solid answer either regarding the springs, so I'll just give these a try on the auto cross and see how they handle and save myself the headache.
 
OK, first post -

ARK -first off, thank you for putting together this amazing thread - extremely helpful.
I've been reading the forum for a while, and finally decided to go through with some mods thanks to a well-timed tax return.

So, I have an '03 SR5 V8 currently on 265/65/17 tires and I'm adding Toytech 3/1.5 leveling lift spacers and (possibly) Spidertrax 1.25" wheel spacers.

I want to put on a set of 265/70/17 GY Duratracs. According to the tire/fitment chart this size should work, but with the addition of Spidertracs do you think I will see any body rub? I am ok with trimming inside of the wheel wells but not willing to commit to the body mount chop.

Or, if I skipped the Spidertracs, do you think I could get away with the 265/70/17 GY Duratracs with just the Toytech 3/1.5 leveling lift without any trimming?

Thanks again man.
 
OK, first post -

ARK -first off, thank you for putting together this amazing thread - extremely helpful.
I've been reading the forum for a while, and finally decided to go through with some mods thanks to a well-timed tax return.

So, I have an '03 SR5 V8 currently on 265/65/17 tires and I'm adding Toytech 3/1.5 leveling lift spacers and (possibly) Spidertrax 1.25" wheel spacers.

I want to put on a set of 265/70/17 GY Duratracs. According to the tire/fitment chart this size should work, but with the addition of Spidertracs do you think I will see any body rub? I am ok with trimming inside of the wheel wells but not willing to commit to the body mount chop.

Or, if I skipped the Spidertracs, do you think I could get away with the 265/70/17 GY Duratracs with just the Toytech 3/1.5 leveling lift without any trimming?

Thanks again man.

Welcome!

With 265/70 Duratracs and Spidertrax, expect to move the fender liner forward and possibly trim the bumper a little. Body mount is not going to be an issue with that size.

Without the Spidertrax, there should be no trimming required. You may need to move the liner forward, but I doubt you'll even need that unless you really flex it out off road.

Great choice on tires btw. Only had mine a couple of weeks, but love them so far.
 
Thanks ARK! Spidertrax and Toytec both delivered today. Itching to get them on and pick up the Duratracs but I'm going to be heading to CA for a bit so it will probably be a couple weeks before I get a chance to get it all together. I'll get some pics up when I get everything together. Thanks again.
 

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