4th Gen Suspension Options/FAQ

[trailrazer]

So I finally installed my lift last month and will post some pictures soon. I installed FJ coils, a DS kit, and 5100's all the way around. Before I started I took a quick measure on the front from the ground to the bottom of the fender. My before measurement was about 33.5" and 33". I didn't measure the rear.

Today after driving for about a month I took some after measurements. I'm sitting at 36.5" up front and 37.5" out back. Both measurements were with the stock 265/65-17 tires. I am extremely happy with the ride.

This week I'm getting my 285's installed. Current tires are worn from over inflation by the previous owner. I still have to get the alignment down.

By all accounts I should be good and not have to worry about the CV joints getting stressed. Anyone install a drop kit for precaution or would it be a waste of time and money?

My next mod with be a ToyTec body lift this winter.

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

So I finally installed my lift last month and will post some pictures soon. I installed FJ coils, a DS kit, and 5100's all the way around. Before I started I took a quick measure on the front from the ground to the bottom of the fender. My before measurement was about 33.5" and 33". I didn't measure the rear.

Today after driving for about a month I took some after measurements. I'm sitting at 36.5" up front and 37.5" out back. Both measurements were with the stock 265/65-17 tires. I am extremely happy with the ride.

This week I'm getting my 285's installed. Current tires are worn from over inflation by the previous owner. I still have to get the alignment down.

By all accounts I should be good and not have to worry about the CV joints getting stressed. Anyone install a drop kit for precaution or would it be a waste of time and money?

My next mod with be a ToyTec body lift this winter.

Some do install it as a precaution. Although advertised as a 1" drop, it doesn't lower the whole diff but instead rotates the front down and the result is more like 1/2".

 

[trailrazer]

Thanks for the response. I don't think I'll worry about it at this point for 1/2". This has been a great lift for the money and I hit my 3/2 target with the FJ coils and DS spacers. Spent about $525 and some change for parts and rides excellent for a DD.

Now onto trimming and wheel spacers to clear my 285's! We're taking a trip to Creede, CO on the 22nd this month and looking forward to seeing some beautiful country and hitting some back roads in the Runner. It'll be my first trip through Utah and Colorado.

 

[NoMoreJeep]

I just picked up a new to me '03 V8 4wd Limited and I am wondering if I can run 285/70r17s. From what I can tell it has a daystar 2.5/1.5 with FJ springs. It has 265/70r17s on factory wheels with 2" spacers on it now and I have lots of clearance. The inner fender wells next to the motor are removed in the front as well. Thanks!

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

I just picked up a new to me '03 V8 4wd Limited and I am wondering if I can run 285/70r17s. From what I can tell it has a daystar 2.5/1.5 with FJ springs. It has 265/70r17s on factory wheels with 2" spacers on it now and I have lots of clearance. The inner fender wells next to the motor are removed in the front as well. Thanks!

Yes, but not without trimming quite a bit and removing the mud flaps. With those 2" wheel spacers you'll most likely have to chop the body mount as well.

 

[NoMoreJeep]

Yes, but not without trimming quite a bit and removing the mud flaps. With those 2" wheel spacers you'll most likely have to chop the body mount as well.

Well I went out to measure the spacers to make sure and it looks like they are about 1.5 inches. Will that make any differance at all?

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

Well I went out to measure the spacers to make sure and it looks like they are about 1.5 inches. Will that make any differance at all?

Hard to say as each setup is different, and it largely depends on which tire you are going to run. Trimming and removing the mud flaps will still be needed, you *may* not need the body mount chop.

 

[NoMoreJeep]

Thanks for the onfo. Looks like my next step is to order some tires and go from there.

 

[FRT]

Heya folks. The runner has 177k miles on it, and the suspension has never been touched and I feel it's time for a refresh/upgrade and have managed to talk the wife into letting me do a lift. I did need to show we'd still be able to park in the garage, but since I have 10" of clearance at the moment, I think we're good to go. =)

This is the daily driver for the wife and I, so while I want to improve the offroading capability, it still needs to be comfortable for our daily commute (40 miles each way).

I'm looking at getting Bilstein 5100s all around and OME 885 up front, and 895 in the rear. I'm also looking at getting the Polyurethane front/rear sway bar bushing kits. I am aiming for the 3" lift, so is there anything else I should grab?
I might do a 1"/1.5" body lift later on...
Also, I'm purchasing from wheelersoffroad, but I don't see the swaybar relocates that I see are recommended in the first post for 3" lifts.

I'm currently running with the All-Pro 1.5" spacers and Nitto Terra Grapplers 265/70R17

Thanks much. This thread has been a great read thus far (still reading through it all).

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

Heya folks. The runner has 177k miles on it, and the suspension has never been touched and I feel it's time for a refresh/upgrade and have managed to talk the wife into letting me do a lift. I did need to show we'd still be able to park in the garage, but since I have 10" of clearance at the moment, I think we're good to go. =)

This is the daily driver for the wife and I, so while I want to improve the offroading capability, it still needs to be comfortable for our daily commute (40 miles each way).

I'm looking at getting Bilstein 5100s all around and OME 885 up front, and 895 in the rear. I'm also looking at getting the Polyurethane front/rear sway bar bushing kits. I am aiming for the 3" lift, so is there anything else I should grab?
I might do a 1"/1.5" body lift later on...
Also, I'm purchasing from wheelersoffroad, but I don't see the swaybar relocates that I see are recommended in the first post for 3" lifts.

I'm currently running with the All-Pro 1.5" spacers and Nitto Terra Grapplers 265/70R17

Thanks much. This thread has been a great read thus far (still reading through it all).

Bilstein 5100's are a good choice. I've ran these with FJ coils and also OME 885's on the front. The FJ coils rode better but had more body roll and nose dive when braking. The 885's weren't quite as smooth but handled great. I haven't used them, but the 884's should be in the middle. They have the same coil rate as the 885's but are shorter so they'll put less pre-load on the shocks which results in a smoother ride. If you went this route, you'd need to add a small spacer up front for a full 3" lift.

On the rear, I recommend Toytec Superflex coils. The OME's are way too stiff for a stock weight 4runner. They work well if you're adding a metal rear bumper, but with stock bumpers it's too stiff.

If you order from different vendors you can probably get a better deal. Last time I checked, AJUSA.com had the best prices on the 5100's. You can order the OME and Superflex coils from Toytec, they offer a discount for forum members. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/www-toyteclifts-com/77882-toytec-toyota-4runner-org-discount-code.html. Be sure to call/chat with Wheelers to get a shipping quote, that can make a big difference.

I would get the swaybar relocates. You can get them at Toytec or many other vendors.

 

[FRT]

Bilstein 5100's are a good choice. I've ran these with FJ coils and also OME 885's on the front. The FJ coils rode better but had more body roll and nose dive when braking. The 885's weren't quite as smooth but handled great. I haven't used them, but the 884's should be in the middle. They have the same coil rate as the 885's but are shorter so they'll put less pre-load on the shocks which results in a smoother ride. If you went this route, you'd need to add a small spacer up front for a full 3" lift.

On the rear, I recommend Toytec Superflex coils. The OME's are way too stiff for a stock weight 4runner. They work well if you're adding a metal rear bumper, but with stock bumpers it's too stiff.

If you order from different vendors you can probably get a better deal. Last time I checked, AJUSA.com had the best prices on the 5100's. You can order the OME and Superflex coils from Toytec, they offer a discount for forum members. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/www-toyteclifts-com/77882-toytec-toyota-4runner-org-discount-code.html. Be sure to call/chat with Wheelers to get a shipping quote, that can make a big difference.

I would get the swaybar relocates. You can get them at Toytec or many other vendors.

Thanks for the info Ark. I'll definitely shop around a bit more before I commit. I do currently have about 100lbs of bug-out and recovery gear that I carry around in the rear (with more to be added) and have contemplated getting the metal bumper (Whitson's racks and Relentless' bumpers look sweet!). Considering that, should I stick with OMEs in the rear?

I guess I should add, that we're looking to get a new daily driver sometime in the next few months and the Runner will become a full time toy / bad weather beast. =)

Thanks again.

 

[trailrazer]

Tire Choices

So I am very happy with my lift using the FJ coils, 5100's and DS spacers. My problem is with the rims I bought. They don't have enough back spacing to run 285's without rubbing on the control arms. My wife does not want to spend the extra money on spacers right now.

So I ended up buying some Cooper ATP 265/70-17's at a good price through America's Tire. Eventually I will buy some spacers, but not now. I got the tires yesterday and while happy, I'm just not totally happy with the size. The 285 actually looked over stuffed compared to what I saw with other owner's pictures and my lift worked out to 3/2.

I went by America's Tires today. They are willing to order me in a set of 275/70-17's and swap me out to make me happy. It'll cost me extra but I'm committed if they get them for me. It works out to close to another $200.00. My choices are the GoodYear Silent Armor's or the BFG AT. I only want an AT tire.

I didn't some searching and saw that the beginning showed the 275/70-17 will not require any trimming or rubbing. I don't care about the trimming, I just can't have any rubbing against the upper control arm. The 285 was very close. I realize the 275 is about 1/2 and inch narrower. Will this work without any problems? Will I notice a difference in a bigger size over the 265/70? Keeping mind that in the next couple months I will install spacers.

As always, I appreciate all the input. I'm just trying to keep the wife happy, stay satisfied and not have buyers remorse.

 

[ebg18t]

I didn't some searching and saw that the beginning showed the 275/70-17 will not require any trimming or rubbing. I don't care about the trimming, I just can't have any rubbing against the upper control arm. The 285 was very close. I realize the 275 is about 1/2 and inch narrower. Will this work without any problems? Will I notice a difference in a bigger size over the 265/70? Keeping mind that in the next couple months I will install spacers.

As always, I appreciate all the input. I'm just trying to keep the wife happy, stay satisfied and not have buyers remorse.

It really seems to vary a lot based on each tire and each truck. I had the shop here test fit a Firestone Destination AT 275-70-17 to check clearances. Without spacers it was still close to the UCA, it might have been ok, but was too close for me. When turning and compressed it was close to the body mount, not hitting. I wouldn't have run it without spacers.

But when If I added spacers I woud have to move the fender liner
Forward and remove the mudflap for proper clearance.

I ended up getting 255-75-17 which was my original plan (BFG mud Terain), but I wanted to test the 275-70 just incase. I also chose not to use my spacers, (sold them). I am able to retain my mudflap and not move the fender liner. I actually like the tall narrow look.

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

Thanks for the info Ark. I'll definitely shop around a bit more before I commit. I do currently have about 100lbs of bug-out and recovery gear that I carry around in the rear (with more to be added) and have contemplated getting the metal bumper (Whitson's racks and Relentless' bumpers look sweet!). Considering that, should I stick with OMEs in the rear?

I guess I should add, that we're looking to get a new daily driver sometime in the next few months and the Runner will become a full time toy / bad weather beast. =)

Thanks again.

I'm running Overland Warehouse rear coils, they're about 18% stiffer than stock. I have a cargo box loaded with gear that stays in the back, probably 75-80 pounds. I'll occasionally pull it out and I can't tell any difference. The Superflex coils are 10% stiffer than stock, so it may be more noticeable there. OME's 895's are ~45% stiffer than stock which I think would still be too much. Something like the All Pro 2" coils (20% stiffer than stock) would probably be ideal IMO for the current setup. You'll need to decide if or how soon the bumper will be, because you definitely want to plan ahead. With the bumper, I think the OME 895's would be a better choice. Just up to you if you don't mind a stiffer ride until you get the added weight of the bumper or if you want to go with a lighter coil now and switch in the future.

So I am very happy with my lift using the FJ coils, 5100's and DS spacers. My problem is with the rims I bought. They don't have enough back spacing to run 285's without rubbing on the control arms. My wife does not want to spend the extra money on spacers right now.

So I ended up buying some Cooper ATP 265/70-17's at a good price through America's Tire. Eventually I will buy some spacers, but not now. I got the tires yesterday and while happy, I'm just not totally happy with the size. The 285 actually looked over stuffed compared to what I saw with other owner's pictures and my lift worked out to 3/2.

I went by America's Tires today. They are willing to order me in a set of 275/70-17's and swap me out to make me happy. It'll cost me extra but I'm committed if they get them for me. It works out to close to another $200.00. My choices are the GoodYear Silent Armor's or the BFG AT. I only want an AT tire.

I didn't some searching and saw that the beginning showed the 275/70-17 will not require any trimming or rubbing. I don't care about the trimming, I just can't have any rubbing against the upper control arm. The 285 was very close. I realize the 275 is about 1/2 and inch narrower. Will this work without any problems? Will I notice a difference in a bigger size over the 265/70? Keeping mind that in the next couple months I will install spacers.

As always, I appreciate all the input. I'm just trying to keep the wife happy, stay satisfied and not have buyers remorse.

I really like the 275/70's, that's the size I was going to get instead of my 255/75's I got originally (just not many tire options which is the reason I didn't get them). The 275/70 is about .5" taller and .4" wider than the 265/70. It's totally your call, it's cheaper to spend the $200 now instead of paying full price for a set in a few months because you're not happy (and in the end that's all that matters). My thought is that unless it's side by side, the size difference isn't noticeable. When I had the 255/75 (roughly same height as 275/70) a friend was running 265/70's on his 4runner. Side by side you could tell if you were looking, but just seeing it on the street it wasn't noticeable in my opinion.

 

[FRT]

I'm running Overland Warehouse rear coils, they're about 18% stiffer than stock. I have a cargo box loaded with gear that stays in the back, probably 75-80 pounds. I'll occasionally pull it out and I can't tell any difference. The Superflex coils are 10% stiffer than stock, so it may be more noticeable there. OME's 895's are ~45% stiffer than stock which I think would still be too much. Something like the All Pro 2" coils (20% stiffer than stock) would probably be ideal IMO for the current setup. You'll need to decide if or how soon the bumper will be, because you definitely want to plan ahead. With the bumper, I think the OME 895's would be a better choice. Just up to you if you don't mind a stiffer ride until you get the added weight of the bumper or if you want to go with a lighter coil now and switch in the future.

Well I just purchased some more recovery gear to throw in the back to include a winch that I will use with the hitch winch mount (Just got the Engo E9000 winch for $275.45 shipped. woot!). Thinking about doing the hidden front hitch as well for front recovery options. I'm not one to duplicate/redo efforts, so I'll put some more thought into whether or not I'll go with the OME 895s vs having to swap them out later on. Thanks again Ark!

 

[FRT]

So I decided to go with the OMEs

Lift Shopping List:
(Keep in mind the runner has 177K miles, so some of this is just me being OCD / preventative)

OME 885s / OME 895s - $320 (wheelers)
Bilstein 5100s all around - $354.90 (allshocks)(ajusa didn't seem to have the 5100s for the rear)
Camburg UCAs uses Factory Ball Joint - $379 (wheelers)
Raybestos Front Sway Bar Bushings - Synthetic x2 - $12 (rockauto)
Moog upper ball joints x2 - $47.58 (rockauto)
Moog lower ball joints x2 - $43.58 (rockauto)
Moog Front Outer Tie Rod Ends x2 - $29 (rockauto)

Total - $1185

Missing anything?

 

[ebg18t]

So I decided to go with the OMEs

Lift Shopping List:
(Keep in mind the runner has 177K miles, so some of this is just me being OCD / preventative)

OME 885s / OME 895s - $320 (wheelers)
Bilstein 5100s all around - $354.90 (allshocks)(ajusa didn't seem to have the 5100s for the rear)
Camburg UCAs uses Factory Ball Joint - $379 (wheelers)
Raybestos Front Sway Bar Bushings - Synthetic x2 - $12 (rockauto)
Moog upper ball joints x2 - $47.58 (rockauto)
Moog lower ball joints x2 - $43.58 (rockauto)
Moog Front Outer Tie Rod Ends x2 - $29 (rockauto)

Total - $1185

Missing anything?

Maybe:
rear poly sway bar bushings
OME trim packer for the front driver side

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

So I decided to go with the OMEs

Lift Shopping List:
(Keep in mind the runner has 177K miles, so some of this is just me being OCD / preventative)

OME 885s / OME 895s - $320 (wheelers)
Bilstein 5100s all around - $354.90 (allshocks)(ajusa didn't seem to have the 5100s for the rear)
Camburg UCAs uses Factory Ball Joint - $379 (wheelers)
Raybestos Front Sway Bar Bushings - Synthetic x2 - $12 (rockauto)
Moog upper ball joints x2 - $47.58 (rockauto)
Moog lower ball joints x2 - $43.58 (rockauto)
Moog Front Outer Tie Rod Ends x2 - $29 (rockauto)

Total - $1185

Missing anything?

With your plans I think the OME's are the right choice. If you search AJUSA by part number, you should be able to find the 5100's. For some reason the part number isn't showing when you enter the 4th gen, but I know a while back the 4th gen part number was listed under the 5th gen. I'm not too familiar with the Camburgs, most use the Light Racing UCA's which come with upper ball joints. As said, about the only other thing is something to correct the driver side lean and bushings for the rear.

 

[FRT]

Maybe:
rear poly sway bar bushings
OME trim packer for the front driver side

Ah good call, thanks. I also forgot the swaybar relocates.

Updated Lift Shopping List:
(Keep in mind the runner has 177K miles, so some of this is just me being OCD / preventative)
OME 885s / OME 895s - $320 (wheelers)
OME 95PF5 5MM Trim Packer - $8 (wheelers)
Bilstein 5100s all around - $354.90 (allshocks)(ajusa didn't seem to have the 5100s for the rear)
Camburg UCAs using Factory Ball Joint - $379 (wheelers)
Energy Suspension Polyurethane HiPerformance Front Sway Bar Bushing Kit - $12.99 (wheelers)
Energy Suspension Polyurethane HiPerformance Rear Sway Bar Bushing Kit - $18.50 (wheelers)
Moog upper ball joints x2 - $47.58 (rockauto)
Moog lower ball joints x2 - $43.58 (rockauto)
Moog Front Outer Tie Rod Ends x2 - $29 (rockauto)
Swaybar Relocates - $29.99 (toytec)
Total - $1243.54

 

[FRT]

With your plans I think the OME's are the right choice. If you search AJUSA by part number, you should be able to find the 5100's. For some reason the part number isn't showing when you enter the 4th gen, but I know a while back the 4th gen part number was listed under the 5th gen. I'm not too familiar with the Camburgs, most use the Light Racing UCA's which come with upper ball joints. As said, about the only other thing is something to correct the driver side lean and bushings for the rear.

Looks like I was typing out my last reply and you posted (too slow I guess). =) I've added the trim packer, and rear bushings to the list, and also added the swaybar relocate kit which I left of the initial list.
For the UCAs, I mainly went with the Camburgs as I was going to use the greasable Moog ball joints, and just wanted the extra camber to ensure alignment could be on point, but the Light Racing UCAs are also adjustable, offering tuning of caster (tho from what I've read, most don't typically adjust theirs). If I did go with the Light Racing, would it be worth pressing out their ball joints and pressing in the greasable Moogs?