4th Gen Suspension Options/FAQ

[Ukraine Train]

Can you guys tell me if 255/70/18's will clear with FJ springs and maybe a 1/4" front spacer? These are the same 32" height as 255/75/17, which are supposed to fit according to this thread, but I saw someone mention in another thread that they had rubbing with 255/70/18's on FJ springs and a 1" spacer. If it does rub, would it be minimal and just need the liner pushed out? I'm looking at getting Vision Warrior wheels which are 18x8.5 with a +25mm offset, which should push the tire outboard a bit also. Thanks!

 

[HHIRunner]

Can you guys tell me if 255/70/18's will clear with FJ springs and maybe a 1/4" front spacer? These are the same 32" height as 255/75/17, which are supposed to fit according to this thread, but I saw someone mention in another thread that they had rubbing with 255/70/18's on FJ springs and a 1" spacer. If it does rub, would it be minimal and just need the liner pushed out? I'm looking at getting Vision Warrior wheels which are 18x8.5 with a +25mm offset, which should push the tire outboard a bit also. Thanks!

A positive offset in the rims I believe would actually bring the wheels further in. To push them out from stock people get either 0 or -12 offset rims. And I don't know about the tires with that setup.

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

What would happen if I put the fj springs with daystar 2.5, and added the 1/4 (1/2) topout spacer?

I wouldn't suggest doing that. With that you'll be at 3.5-4" lift which will cause cause issues getting the alignment back into spec. This will also put a lot of stress on the front end, CV's in particular.

Can you guys tell me if 255/70/18's will clear with FJ springs and maybe a 1/4" front spacer? These are the same 32" height as 255/75/17, which are supposed to fit according to this thread, but I saw someone mention in another thread that they had rubbing with 255/70/18's on FJ springs and a 1" spacer. If it does rub, would it be minimal and just need the liner pushed out? I'm looking at getting Vision Warrior wheels which are 18x8.5 with a +25mm offset, which should push the tire outboard a bit also. Thanks!

I ran the 255/75/17's with just a 1.5" lift in the front and had no rubbing issues at all. Later on I added wheel spacers to push the tires out, and had quite a bit of rubbing then. The guy in that link doesn't appear to be running spacers, I would not have expected any rubbing.

Once you get the wheels on, you'll need to trim the front bumper and either trim or remove the front mud flaps.

 

[Ukraine Train]

Perfect, thanks. I think I will stay with 265/65/18's then... it's only a 1/4" ground clearance difference.

 

[wnelax04sr5]

realistic tire options

ive worn my geolanders down to nothing, and its time to replace. i want to go with either destination at's or terra grapplers, in either a 265/70 or 285/70. my concern is that i have a 3/2 spacer, that has settled to about 2 and 3/4 and 1 and 3/4. my ground to fender with 265/65's is about 35.5. im not worried too much about the rear, but is it possible to run 285/70's without totally ripping apart my bumper? i have spidertrax too btw

 

[BaconTaco]

Sub'd

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

ive worn my geolanders down to nothing, and its time to replace. i want to go with either destination at's or terra grapplers, in either a 265/70 or 285/70. my concern is that i have a 3/2 spacer, that has settled to about 2 and 3/4 and 1 and 3/4. my ground to fender with 265/65's is about 35.5. im not worried too much about the rear, but is it possible to run 285/70's without totally ripping apart my bumper? i have spidertrax too btw

Sorry, just now seeing this. Since those are mild all terrain tires, your rubbing may not be quite so bad. The rubbing it typically minimal on the bumper, about five minutes with a sharp knife/razor will easily take care of that. It's the rear part of the front fenderwell that has caused issues for me. You'll need to remove the mud flaps and possibly trim some plastic behind them. If you're not really flexing off road you will probably be fine with the trimming mentioned above.

 

[wnelax04sr5]

Sorry, just now seeing this. Since those are mild all terrain tires, your rubbing may not be quite so bad. The rubbing it typically minimal on the bumper, about five minutes with a sharp knife/razor will easily take care of that. It's the rear part of the front fenderwell that has caused issues for me. You'll need to remove the mud flaps and possibly trim some plastic behind them. If you're not really flexing off road you will probably be fine with the trimming mentioned above.

thanks ark!

 

[rfuree11]

I'm ducking indoors to enjoy the AC for a few minutes- I'm in the middle of adjusting my Toytec coilovers (the ultimates). Here's a protip not in the Toytec instructions: unbolt your swaybar endlink from the knuckle, move it out of the way and twist your swaybar up. Lash it to the UCA with a zip tie or something similar. I went from getting 1/8 of a rotation on the collar to almost a full half spin.

 

[stanleybb50]

^^^How cool would it be if we could adjust 5100's this way! I would love to move mine up another notch, but don't feel like pulling everything apart again... Plus nine are all corroded, so I don't know if I trust the next level snap ring setting any longer..

 

[rfuree11]

That was my reasoning when I bought it. I didn't want a ton of lift, but I love the idea that I could dial in whatever amount of lift I wanted, so it was worth the extra few hundred to me. The adjusting is still a pain in the ass, but not nearly as bad as pulling the assembly apart.

 

[Troymclure]

Quick question. Im looking at finally upgrading from xreas as mine is on its way out. I found the Metal tech long travel rear suspension which looks pretty nice. It seems most people put the MT long travel in back and Icon extended travel coilovers in front. However, the Icon ones are way out of my price range, especially considering you need new upper control arms. My question would be is it worth it to just have the MT extended travel in back with a more common front lift such as OME or toytec coilovers, or would it just be a waste?

 

[ebg18t]

Quick question. Im looking at finally upgrading from xreas as mine is on its way out. I found the Metal tech long travel rear suspension which looks pretty nice. It seems most people put the MT long travel in back and Icon extended travel coilovers in front. However, the Icon ones are way out of my price range, especially considering you need new upper control arms. My question would be is it worth it to just have the MT extended travel in back with a more common front lift such as OME or toytec coilovers, or would it just be a waste?

More travel is always good. But I think you would be best served by having LT front and rear if you go LT. I stayed with regular travel on my 4Runner and can't complain. I had LT on my old rig, but didn't feel I needed it this time given my projected use. I would also stick to one brand of dampers front and rear. It will keep the feel more balanced. I found the OME springs on Bilsteins dampers to be a good ride. The OME dampers have a little heavier valving which helps control heavier loads better. But if you aren't carrying heavier loads the bilsteins will be a tad softer valved and more comfy.

The Icons are a premium option in both cost and performance. Most of us that have adjustable Icon, Fox or Kings tend to have better ride quality. Just a by product of higher quality custom dampers. You pay a little more, but my ride is plush when going over whoops in the desert or railroad crossings in the city.

 

[Troymclure]

More travel is always good. But I think you would be best served by having LT front and rear if you go LT. I stayed with regular travel on my 4Runner and can't complain. I had LT on my old rig, but didn't feel I needed it this time given my projected use. I would also stick to one brand of dampers front and rear. It will keep the feel more balanced. I found the OME springs on Bilsteins dampers to be a good ride. The OME dampers have a little heavier valving which helps control heavier loads better. But if you aren't carrying heavier loads the bilsteins will be a tad softer valved and more comfy.

The Icons are a premium option in both cost and performance. Most of us that have adjustable Icon, Fox or Kings tend to have better ride quality. Just a by product of higher quality custom dampers. You pay a little more, but my ride is plush when going over whoops in the desert or railroad crossings in the city.

Thanks, looks like Ill either save up til I can see myself spending that much on a full long travel kit, or just go with a cheaper option, most likely ome 885 front, all pro 3.5 rears with bilstein 5100's all the way around (backs would be extended length tacoma version with new bushings)

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

Quick question. Im looking at finally upgrading from xreas as mine is on its way out. I found the Metal tech long travel rear suspension which looks pretty nice. It seems most people put the MT long travel in back and Icon extended travel coilovers in front. However, the Icon ones are way out of my price range, especially considering you need new upper control arms. My question would be is it worth it to just have the MT extended travel in back with a more common front lift such as OME or toytec coilovers, or would it just be a waste?

As previously stated, more travel is good, but I'd start with the front first. The rear already has more travel than the front, so IMO you'll see the most benefit by going long (extended) travel in the front. Having huge amounts of travel in the rear won't help you much if you're still limited by the front.

Can't go wrong either way, but if I was working on a limited budget and could only do one right now, it'd be the front.

 

[Troymclure]

As previously stated, more travel is good, but I'd start with the front first. The rear already has more travel than the front, so IMO you'll see the most benefit by going long (extended) travel in the front. Having huge amounts of travel in the rear won't help you much if you're still limited by the front.

Can't go wrong either way, but if I was working on a limited budget and could only do one right now, it'd be the front.

Yep, thats pretty much what I figured. Ill do it once and do it right, too bad thats a long ways off, haha.

 

[lonestar13869]

2004 4runner

All:

I have 2004 4runner needs to replace OEM Struts and shock. I like to replace with new struts and shock which can provide better and comfort rid to taxi my kids around. I have been looking into Bilstein 5100 Series Shocks, but its seems doesn't have spring as my OEM. Does it work? or do you have any better suggestion on brands or model for safe and comfort rid/little bit off road. Many thanks.

Lone

 

[ebg18t]

All:

I have 2004 4runner needs to replace OEM Struts and shock. I like to replace with new struts and shock which can provide better and comfort rid to taxi my kids around. I have been looking into Bilstein 5100 Series Shocks, but its seems doesn't have spring as my OEM. Does it work? or do you have any better suggestion on brands or model for safe and comfort rid/little bit off road. Many thanks.

Lone

Bilsteins 5100 series works just fine with OEM front and rear coil springs.

 

[neogauge]

Spring, Spacers, Settings?

First off I have DayStar 2.5/1.5 with Airlift 1000 airbags. This past week I tore the Xreas out and installed some Bilstein 5100's front and rear. I left the front and rear DayStar Spacers in and set the front Bilsteins to 0.85. The front is just slightly higher.

My question is... I want to get springs. Thinking about getting just the rear ToyTec Superflex 2" Springs to raise the rear. Do I or Should I take out the DayStar front and rear and set the front 5100's up, leaving the factory springs up front?

OR

3" FJ LIFT W/ FRONT & REAR COILS <- Install this spring package with 884 up front and ToyTec Superflex in the rear. Should I get ToyTec TopSpacer? Should I leave in the DS Spacers front and rear or just the rear and set the front 5100's to Max?

I plan on no extra front or rear weight other than normal cargo and the 5 cuft 3/4" MDF Sub Box with 2-12" Subs behind the rear seat. I really don't want to use FJ or other used springs. This is a DD. :thanks: for the input.

 

[ebg18t]

Neogauge - if you are not adding weight move the front 5100's to the max and keep using the OEM springs. In the rear use the OEM springs with ds spring spacer. This will be a 2.5/1.5" lift with almost stick ride quality.

If you got the $$, 885 front with 5100 on lowest setting and super flex in rear with the 5100. Will be firmer than stock and yield ~3" front/2" rear.