4WD Actuator Stuck

CaptCaveman

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I have a 2001 4Runner Limited with a stuck actuator that my dealer wants to charge me $2700+ to replace. I found the part at NAPA for $330. So the only question I have is can I replace the part myself? Anyone know of a YouTube video or detailed instructions I can use? I REALLY don't want to pay that much money for this. Any help is appreciated.
 
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I have a 2001 4Runner Limited with a stuck actuator that my dealer wants to charge me $2700+ to replace. I found the part at NAPA for $330. So the only question I have is can I replace the part myself? Anyone know of a YouTube video or detailed instructions I can use? I REALLY don't want to pay that much money for this. Any help is appreciated.

First you need to specify if front diff actuator or T-case actuator. Two different things--both could be called 4wd actuator.
 
THere are two vacuum lines from the diff that go to a small vacuum distributor (forgot the real name). It's located under the hood in back of the battery on the hump of the drivers side wheel well.

Switch the lines and it will realease the acutator. I did this and it worked for me, then I switched the lines back to the original spot.

A toyota mechanic had previously told me I need a new transfer case and he'd put one in for about $2,800. 5 years later everything is working fine.
 
THere are two vacuum lines from the diff that go to a small vacuum distributor (forgot the real name). It's located under the hood in back of the battery on the hump of the drivers side wheel well.

Switch the lines and it will realease the acutator. I did this and it worked for me, then I switched the lines back to the original spot.

A toyota mechanic had previously told me I need a new transfer case and he'd put one in for about $2,800. 5 years later everything is working fine.

He has a 2001. Front diff has electric actuator in ´01 and ´02. No vacuum lines to front diff. No VSV´s (Vacuum Switching Valves--the ¨real name¨) on driver side fender wall.
 
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I really appreciate everyone's feedback and advice. As it turns out I was able to Disengage the actuator manually. Simply removed the actuator cover (3 screws) and turned the gear wheel. Put the cover back on and voila, fixed. The thing is the Toyota dealer told that that it was impossible to disengage and would need to be replace at a cost of $2700. Suffice it to say I won't be going there again.
 
I really appreciate everyone's feedback and advice. As it turns out I was able to Disengage the actuator manually. Simply removed the actuator cover (3 screws) and turned the gear wheel. Put the cover back on and voila, fixed. The thing is the Toyota dealer told that that it was impossible to disengage and would need to be replace at a cost of $2700. Suffice it to say I won't be going there again.


Looking at the age of mechanics in my local dealership. Half may have never saw a 3rd gen. My neighbors kid went to auto mechanics school in Williamsport PA. Was not impressed. I shown him how to set points in his dad's TBird, work on the Holley Carb on the truck he just bought and get his 84 Camero with the crossfire injection on it. He said the tore apart and rebuilt a GM V6 and 700R4.

Scan tools and component replacement is what their all about.
 
I really appreciate everyone's feedback and advice. As it turns out I was able to Disengage the actuator manually. Simply removed the actuator cover (3 screws) and turned the gear wheel. Put the cover back on and voila, fixed. The thing is the Toyota dealer told that that it was impossible to disengage and would need to be replace at a cost of $2700. Suffice it to say I won't be going there again.

Dealers are THIEVES, all of them.

So, does this mean you can shift into and out of 4wd with ease? If not try right hand turns just after you depress the 4wd button and left when disengaging. That worked for me, would engage within seconds of the turn, took several times but eventually it engaged without the turns on demand. Woohoo!
 
I really appreciate everyone's feedback and advice. As it turns out I was able to Disengage the actuator manually. Simply removed the actuator cover (3 screws) and turned the gear wheel. Put the cover back on and voila, fixed. The thing is the Toyota dealer told that that it was impossible to disengage and would need to be replace at a cost of $2700. Suffice it to say I won't be going there again.
Can you explain this process a little further
 
3rd gen 1999 rear transfer case actuator

I had to clean my rear transfer case actuator on my 1999 limited. It is now working….. I need to know the correct the position / timing of the actuator gear. I have looked around this site for a while and there is conflicting information on where to place the gear. In relation to the notch in the housing….Should the transfer case be in neutral or in 2WD when I install the actuator motor? I placed in back onto the 4runner and when I click the 4WD button it pulled the transfer case out of gear and I can utilize any gears no forward reverse etc. obviously the gear timing is off just looking for a little help.
 
Dealers are THIEVES, all of them.
If not try right hand turns just after you depress the 4wd button and left when disengaging. That worked for me, would engage within seconds of the turn, took several times but eventually it engaged without the turns on demand. Woohoo!

I tried this solution about a year and a half ago when my actuator was stuck after not using my 4 wheel drive or exercising it for several years. Oops. This technique worked like a charm.

Last night, after neglecting 4 wheel drive since then, I tried to put my 4Runner in 4 wheel drive to get up the driveway with about 8" of sleet and snow compacted by the sleet. Same problem. Oops again. This technique worked like a charm again. It sure beats bringing it in for unnecessary work and charges.

As jgue467 says, you have to go through the cycle a few times but for reasons I don't understand it frees the actuator. I sure would like to hear an explanation why this works if someone out there knows why.
 
As jgue467 says, you have to go through the cycle a few times but for reasons I don't understand it frees the actuator. I sure would like to hear an explanation why this works if someone out there knows why.
The actuator also has position sensing 'tracks' in the actuator. If those have build-up, the actuator/computer don't know whether the actuator is working - and does not engage the front diff. Moving the actuator over those sensing tracks cleans them up and makes the whole system work.

images


-Charlie
 
BTW, I have a 1998 SR5 with a manual transmission with a 4 H and 4 L lever on the center console next to the shift lever so no magic button but the technique worked moving the lever instead of pressing a button. My system has a VSV actuator not an electric one.
 

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