4WD feels like brake is on?

[denvermaxd]

2000 4R SR5, V6 manual...

This is a new truck to me. My previous 4WD trucks were a '97 Ford Ranger and a '73 Jeep Commando.

When I bought the truck (3 weeks ago) I tested the shift into 4WD and it worked fine, but required some muscle to move from 2H to 4H the first time, and subsequently made the shift more and more easily (probably tested 4-5 times on the test drive).

Today was our first real snow of the year, and I put it in 4H for the drive to work. It was extremely hard getting it to shift into 4H the first time. I really had to force it to make the shift. After that, although the tires are pretty thin on tread, the truck felt good and drove fine.

However, when I got to my parking garage, I ran into something unexpected. I typically back into my space, so I took sharp turn to the right at low speed, and the vehicle literally behaved like the e-brake was on. I had to punch the clutch to keep it from stalling, the headlights dimmed and it was shuddering. Had to pour on gas to move it forward again. I thought I might have a flat or something, and actually got out and walked around the vehicle. Nothing of note visually.

Put it in reverse and again, it feels like the e-brake is on — I really have to give it gas to get it moving, and keep it moving, and as soon as I let off the gas it pretty much stops itself.

Any thoughts? Is this normal? I definitely didn't engage the locking diff or anything like that, which I imagine could cause this kind of behavior. Is there any way to check and make sure it isn't somehow activated — can it even BE activated in 4H?

 

[Kurtis]

Your 4Runners has the classic "J-stick" 4WD shifter. This means it is full on 4WD in 4H. None of that AWD crap. I notice you said park garage. (probably dry pavement?) The drive tran is most likely binding when you are turning. This would be normal because when you are turning your outter most tire is turning faster then the inner most is. If it's only binding in the turn then you are fine and it is normal operation. If it binds when going in a straight line, then you can worry. BTW, don't use 4WD on dry pavement. It's will lengthen the life of your drive tran.

 

[So Many Roads]

Mine also takes some effort to shift into 4WD. Shifts back to 2WD with almost no force at all. Sounds similar to yours.

You said you were in a parking garage, probably on dry pavement, backing in with wheels turned. I think the answer is that when in 4WD, the front wheels turn at the same speed. So your wheels are turning at different speeds on dry pavement and you feel that resistance.

Use 4WD on slick surfaces, use 2WD on dry surfaces and you shouldn't have a problem.

 

[denvermaxd]

excellent advice...

Thanks. I will be more diligent about switching out of 4WD on dry pavement, etc. I guess I can assume the "binding" feeling in reverse was related to the same phenomenon?

 

[Kurtis]

Thanks. I will be more diligent about switching out of 4WD on dry pavement, etc. I guess I can assume the "binding" feeling in reverse was related to the same phenomenon?

There was likely still tension on the drive tran when you were reversing. You should be good to go. Give it a test run after you gone straight in 2WD for a few. I bet it's just fine.

 

[awpsome]

yup that binding happens on dry pavement because with the standard center locked 4wd and making sharp turns there isnt enough slip between the front 2 wheels and the rear 2 wheels so it binds.
easiest way to understand for me was to think about it that with the 4wd you have is that the front 2 wheels and rear 2 wheels have to move at the same speed always. they are locked together but still open in the differentials.
so when making sharp turns the front 2 wheels are now moving at a different speed then the rears so this causes binding.

in the updated AWD version with the push button 4wd we have the option of both unlocked center diff and locked center diff. pretty much if in awd the front and rear wheels do NOT have to move at the same speed.
again with no relation to front and rear differential as they are always open in any mode unless you have a locker or LSD.

all in all, use 4wd only when there is slippage available between the front and rear wheels like on dirt, loose gravel, off road, snow, all that.
when high traction is available like dry pavement, garages, concrete, then there isnt enough slippage causing binding.
also when and if its binding do not FORCE it to push through, you can how ever move back and forward in small turn increments which is fine.

another thing i wanted to mention to address your hard to shift into 4wd is that it may be easier and good practice to shift into 4wd when in neutral. although our trucks are fine shifting on the fly (driving) up to about 50mph. some say a little more some say a little less but either way you should be okay to shift on the fly anything from 0-50mph.

try to check your transfer case fluid may also need to be refilled with some better fluid to help with shifting. also check both front and rear diffs at the same time since they will use the same fluid as well.

good luck!