4WD not working

NegroTundra

New member
Have searched around and there seems to be many avenues for my problem, which is: Recently purchased a 1998 5 speed with locker (drool!) for cheap, knowing that the 4wd doesnt work. Seller said he never cared cause he never used it, and that the clutch was replaced about 5k miles ago. This is a 5 speed manual with the J-shift 4wd. Here's what I've done to diagnose:

1) Confirmed that when I switch to 4HI, the front drive shaft will not spin by hand
2) Confirmed that while in 2HI the front drive shaft will spin by hand
3) Only one side of the vacuum switch valve is pulling a vacuum no matter the position of the 4wd lever. I went to junk yard, pulled another vacuum switch of a wrecked 97 runner, same result.
4) If I switch positions of the 2 vacuum lines coming from front diff, there is no difference
5) When switched into 4wd, no voltage reading at the ADD actuator on the front diff
6) When switched to 4wd HI, I get 11V at the driver side plug that goes to solenoid on top of transfer case
7) When switched to 4wd LO, I get 11V at the passenger side plug that goes to solenoid on top of transfer case

This is as far as Ive gone. Any help would surely be appreciated!
 
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I believe what your calling solenoids on the transfer case are just shift position sensors. Sounds like they work.

When shifting into/out of 4wd you should hear a relay over behind the glove box cycling. Not intimately familiar with it, but there should be a 4x controll module over there.
Sounds like it’s not responding to the shift position sensors input.

For the VSV you replaced both of the solenoids I assume.

Read this thread.

Won't go into 4 wheel drive
 
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5) When switched into 4wd, no voltage reading at the ADD actuator on the front diff
6) When switched to 4wd HI, I get 11V at the driver side plug that goes to solenoid on top of transfer case
7) When switched to 4wd LO, I get 11V at the passenger side plug that goes to solenoid on top of transfer case

You need to remove the switches on the transfer case and one on the front diff and check for continuity when depressed.
 
sounds like you have done most of the check steps. Yes you should hear clicking on and off behind the glove box
 
Have searched around and there seems to be many avenues for my problem, which is: Recently purchased a 1998 5 speed with locker (drool!) for cheap, knowing that the 4wd doesnt work. Seller said he never cared cause he never used it, and that the clutch was replaced about 5k miles ago. This is a 5 speed manual with the J-shift 4wd. Here's what I've done to diagnose:

1) Confirmed that when I switch to 4HI, the front drive shaft will not spin by hand
2) Confirmed that while in 2HI the front drive shaft will spin by hand
3) Only one side of the vacuum switch valve is pulling a vacuum no matter the position of the 4wd lever. I went to junk yard, pulled another vacuum switch of a wrecked 97 runner, same result.
4) If I switch positions of the 2 vacuum lines coming from front diff, there is no difference
5) When switched into 4wd, no voltage reading at the ADD actuator on the front diff
6) When switched to 4wd HI, I get 11V at the driver side plug that goes to solenoid on top of transfer case
7) When switched to 4wd LO, I get 11V at the passenger side plug that goes to solenoid on top of transfer case

This is as far as Ive gone. Any help would surely be appreciated!

This is actually meaningless. These switches send a GROUND signal. I am not sure what side you are reading on, but that is not the way to do it. I am virtually certain your issue is the passenger-side position switch. If you can access the plug, test the for continuity between the two wires coming from the TC in 4HI, 4LO, and 2HI. You should be open in 2HI and continuity in 4HI and 4LO. If not, order yourself a 84222-35110 and swap it out.

I am assuming it is wired the same as a J-shift, 5-speed 4Runner.
 
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I am virtually certain your issue is the passenger-side position switch. If you can access the plug, test the for continuity between the two wires coming from the TC in 4HI, 4LO, and 2HI. You should be open in 2HI and continuity in 4HI and 4LO. If not, order yourself a 8422-35110 and swap it out.

I am assuming it is wired the same as a J-shift, 5-speed 4Runner.

Thank you. I have been busy and not able to dedicate time to this lately. I will try that out. Are you certain of your part number? I googled it and nothing is popping up.
 
Thanks TheDurk. You called it. I lucked out and was able to save my switch with a good cleaning from a MAF cleaner. I may go head and purchase a new 84222-35110 so that if it does die again I can just swap it. Cheers!
 
Thanks TheDurk. You called it. I lucked out and was able to save my switch with a good cleaning from a MAF cleaner. I may go head and purchase a new 84222-35110 so that if it does die again I can just swap it. Cheers!

Glad it worked out. Just out of curiosity, how did you access the switch? Unbolt the cross member and droop the trans?
 
I was able to get at it from the top. Most folks say this isn't possible but I think if you have the manual transmission it allows just enough room. I also removed the tranfer case gear selector (4x 12mm bolts).
 
I was able to get at it from the top. Most folks say this isn't possible but I think if you have the manual transmission it allows just enough room. I also removed the tranfer case gear selector (4x 12mm bolts).
I recommended drooping the transmission in the other thread because your signature lists you have an automatic in your signature. I forgot you mentioned in this thread that it was for a manual. Good to know you can get to it that way on a manual, but definitely not possible for anyone with an automatic.
 
I was able to get at it from the top. Most folks say this isn't possible but I think if you have the manual transmission it allows just enough room. I also removed the tranfer case gear selector (4x 12mm bolts).

I could get a wrench on it, but I could not get enough force on it to make it turn. So I McGuyvered a manual control until I did my frame swap, and then it was easy.
 

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