5,000 mile 3.4?!

[swapped_mini]

Looking at the manual for my 2000, there is one bolt which is 15ft-lbf instead of 31ft-lbf. Based on the chart given specified torque for standard bolts the bolts that take 31ft-lbf are Class 10T M8x1.25 flange bolts while the bolt that takes 15ft-lbf is a Class 6T M8x1.25 flange bolt. That means that while the bolts are all interchangeable as far as threading goes, there is one bolt which isn't actually interchangeable. The Class 6T should be stamped with either a 6 or two dashes on the head while the Class 10Ts should be stamped with either a 10, 4 dashes and a dot, or 5 dashes on the head. I've not actually pulled my oil pump, so I can't promise any of this is correct, but checking markings would be where I would start.

Thanks for checking that out. I went back after dinner and looked up the bolts, two dashes meaning they are 5t, both my 97 and 99 motors have the same bolts. That equates to 13 ft lbs. I forgot to look up the other bolt but I bet it is a 6t like you said, it is much longer and goes through the AC compressor bracket. I pulled a couple, verified the threads looked ok and reinstalled them all at 13ft lbs with no problems.

Seems like the numbers were transposed at some point and copied forward?

I was in a rush and should have listened to that nagging feeling, got super lucky this time. Would have been better off just using a ratchet and going by feel on that one!

Also discovered that in 97 water pumps used a gasket, but in 99 they added a groove for sealant to the pump and no gasket. Hope the dealer has the gasket in stock tomorrow so I can reuse my low miles 97 pump.

 

[clearock]

Something for you to consider, is ur dealing with a iron block with an aluminum head that has been stored for a very long time without coolant, engine coolant acts as a stabilizing agent to stop electrolysis between the to surfaces. I'd pull the heads and replace the head gaskets to check the mating surface. I just went through this with my "low mile" JDM engine, exp has taught me to replace head gaskets on engine that have been stored for long periods, and glad I did as the block to pitted and covered in rust which required .008" to be removed... just an FYI nice score and best of luck.

 

[phattyduck]

Something for you to consider, is ur dealing with a iron block with an aluminum head that has been stored for a very long time without coolant, engine coolant acts as a stabilizing agent to stop electrolysis between the to surfaces. I'd pull the heads and replace the head gaskets to check the mating surface. I just went through this with my "low mile" JDM engine, exp has taught me to replace head gaskets on engine that have been stored for long periods, and glad I did as the block to pitted and covered in rust which required .008" to be removed... just an FYI nice score and best of luck.

If the motor was stored dry, electrolysis won't happen. If the motor is stored with old coolant inside, then this could be an issue (lack of coolant changes is my pet theory why 3.4L sometimes blow head gaskets). JDM motors are often neglected in odd ways, including lack of oil changes or lack of coolant changes.

-Charlie

 

[swapped_mini]

Well I spent the weekend getting her all resealed and dressed up.
I replaced:
Knock sensor harness.
Front and rear mains
resealed the pan
New lower intake gaskets, the factory ones had a small coolant leak on this new motor. Was surprised to see that.
New timing belt but reused my tensioner, pulleys and WP since they only had about 50k on them.
Reused the right cam pulley from my old motor since the timing cover melted over to this one, it looked fine but cheap insurance.
New cam seals
Resealed timing covers, valve covers, oil cooler
Reused plugs but have a new set to drop in after initial run in

Dropped it in Sunday morning and got it together by the afternoon. Pre filled the oil filter, cranked it over and it started building oil pressure after about 30 seconds. I cranked it another time to make sure it was sending oil to the top end. Hooked up the igniter and cranked away. It fired right up!

There was a horrible belt squeal from the alternator, it was a little loose but also probably picked up some oil from my hands or somewhere else. That cut out after 15 seconds or so and the power steering pump was growling at me. That one scared me, but I took the cap off the reservoir and it got way louder. Turned it off, took the PS belt off and restarted it and it sounded great! I let it get up to temperature and run for a few minutes and drove it around the block. I ran distilled water through it and it came out kind of nasty, rust colored with very fine particulates. Not gritty, maybe a touch slimy. Second round was marginally better, probably going to have to do it a couple times before it comes out clean.

I changed the oil filter and drained the cooling system after the first shakedown. By that point it was nearly dark and I was wiped out from the past week and had to get ready to buckle down and catch up at work. I haven't gotten a chance to compression test it yet and can't pull it into my shop right now because of all the crap in the way. I should have time tomorrow to finish buttoning everything up in the engine bay and see if I can figure out the power steering. Then another drive and compression test.

But, I am pretty sure this motor is just fine. I pulled the oil filler cap off while it was idling and there was basically no blow by coming out, definitely less than my old motor. It also idled super smooth so I think the valves seated once they got some lube and compression to slam them home. I am running high mileage Mobile 1 for the extra detergents, hopefully that will help dissolve anything that was causing them to stick.

I appreciate all the input, I asked just about everyone I could think of and the majority of responses were basically "fire it up and see"! If I had more time I think the prudent thing would have been to pull the heads and double check everything, but time will tell how this decision works out. And, I can always pull the heads while it is in the truck.

 

[swapped_mini]

Ran a compression test this afternoon.

5 - 221 6 - 218
3 - 225 4 - 218
1 - 219 2 - 217

Pretty happy with those numbers.

Got the power steering working and am going to take her in to town now and see how she does.