50K trans maintenance

Another question 300k - 120k ago.. so you havent changed ATF for 180k? What ATF are you using and when do you plan to do your next atf exchange? Take pics of the fluid will ya? Please make a new thread when it happens.

No I last change the transmission fluid at 240K miles. So, if I go to 60K intervals, I am due shortly.
 
I really don't see the point of replacing the screen element vs. just cleaning it honestly. I can't say we do it regularly though; most of the the failed transmissions I have replaced or had the pan off to inspect didn't have horribly clogged filters to the point that it restricts flow significantly.

I don't think Toyota has really used a paper style transmission filter in their transmissions for a while, almost all the ones I've seen have been a fine mesh screen. You can usually remove them and spray them out with brake clean and blow them clean, though as I mentioned I haven't seen any really badly clogged before.

You'll always see a lot of gunk on the magnets, even on a new properly operating transmission; so don't get too freaked out when you drop the pan. But make sure the magnets go back in the same spots they were in and that when you torque the pan back on you try to "criss-cross" your tightening pattern, it will help the pan seat more evenly and hopefully not leak.

Post Note-

I'm still hesitant to recommend anything other than the factory fluid, a lot of companies like to say "certified by Toyota or Asin" but, there's no real proof of said certifications nor do I recall seeing any documentation from Toyota regarding approved/certified WS alternatives (if you do have that document I'd love it for my own reference!). Also have never seen a definitive breakdown of what their additive packages vs. what WS additive packages are (hell I still can't find a definitive breakdown of what exactly WS is made of and what additives it has in it). My cautious skepticism aside, WS ATF has been around long enough that I would imagine companies like Amsoil, Valvoline, and Idemitsu could have made fluids comparable enough to it and plenty of people have beta-tested it for them, so I'm a little less knee-jerk about people wanting to use them than I was years ago; though I still stand by if you don't know what it is, you probably can't tell what to swap it out with.
 
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So my wifes 2018 Rav4 with 10000 miles is due for a transmission fuid change next year because its five years old? My 2019 4runner has 9000 miles so far and will need a transmission fluid change in 2024?Geesh!
 
I really don't see the point of replacing the screen element vs. just cleaning it honestly. I can't say we do it regularly though; most of the the failed transmissions I have replaced or had the pan off to inspect didn't have horribly clogged filters to the point that it restricts flow significantly.

I don't think Toyota has really used a paper style transmission filter in their transmissions for a while, almost all the ones I've seen have been a fine mesh screen. You can usually remove them and spray them out with brake clean and blow them clean, though as I mentioned I haven't seen any really badly clogged before.

You'll always see a lot of gunk on the magnets, even on a new properly operating transmission; so don't get too freaked out when you drop the pan. But make sure the magnets go back in the same spots they were in and that when you torque the pan back on you try to "criss-cross" your tightening pattern, it will help the pan seat more evenly and hopefully not leak.

Post Note-

I'm still hesitant to recommend anything other than the factory fluid, a lot of companies like to say "certified by Toyota or Asin" but, there's no real proof of said certifications nor do I recall seeing any documentation from Toyota regarding approved/certified WS alternatives (if you do have that document I'd love it for my own reference!). Also have never seen a definitive breakdown of what their additive packages vs. what WS additive packages are (hell I still can't find a definitive breakdown of what exactly WS is made of and what additives it has in it). My cautious skepticism aside, WS ATF has been around long enough that I would imagine companies like Amsoil, Valvoline, and Idemitsu could have made fluids comparable enough to it and plenty of people have beta-tested it for them, so I'm a little less knee-jerk about people wanting to use them than I was years ago; though I still stand by if you don't know what it is, you probably can't tell what to swap it out with.

Valvoline MAXLIFE certifed by CuttThroatSlam's 4runner w/ 300k
 
Lurking through here and getting some good advice

Question though: if I bought my 4r used from a dealership with about 30k miles will I need to do the same maintenance as described in this thread?
I'm at 43k atm so looking to hit 50k by end of year-ish
Just wondering since I know dealerships have to run through a check list of maintenance approvals before hitting the lot, that being said, I wouldn't trust em with said checklist and competence
 
Lurking through here and getting some good advice

Question though: if I bought my 4r used from a dealership with about 30k miles will I need to do the same maintenance as described in this thread?
I'm at 43k atm so looking to hit 50k by end of year-ish
Just wondering since I know dealerships have to run through a check list of maintenance approvals before hitting the lot, that being said, I wouldn't trust em with said checklist and competence

Able to check the service history? It’s never a bad thing to change fluid earlier or more frequent especially if you’re putting the vehicle through its paces.

My 2013 is at about 90K and I’m slowly tackling everything on the weekends.
 
Able to check the service history? It’s never a bad thing to change fluid earlier or more frequent especially if you’re putting the vehicle through its paces.

My 2013 is at about 90K and I’m slowly tackling everything on the weekends.

Not even sure how to, to be honest
Got a buddy of mine that works on cars, even though not 4r/truck specific, maybe I'll ask him about it too
 
Just got pricing from the dealer. $350 for the transmission and $180ea for the front/rear. State CT.
 
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Just got pricing from the dealer. $350 for the transmission and $180ea for the front/rear. State CT.

my front diff. bolt started stripping and I stopped. Will get at it again when I change the oil in 3k miles. I havent tried it again yet but I did the transfer case and rear diff. very easily. The transmission kinda worries me with someone here messing up. Is the dealer quote for a complete drain of all 11 qts ? and and replace or clean the filter.
 
my front diff. bolt started stripping and I stopped. Will get at it again when I change the oil in 3k miles. I havent tried it again yet but I did the transfer case and rear diff. very easily. The transmission kinda worries me with someone here messing up. Is the dealer quote for a complete drain of all 11 qts ? and and replace or clean the filter.

Yeah, i am lucky to have a decent dealer I can trust, or at the very least hold responsible. Its a complete transmission drain, ill have to confirm on the filter clean vs replace. Likely replacement.
 
I had the full flush done at 144,000 miles. I was worried but it turned out fine. $210 at Hendrick Toyota Wilmington NC with a coupon. I got no info about a screen vs. filter, some on here said it's just a mesh screen. I bet they just hook it up to the machine and let it rip.

And yes a guy on here tried the drain/ fill on his own and had some issues.

Here: No torque to wheels
 
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My drain and fill worked out ok.
I drained, dropped pan and cleaned the filter (removed) with brake cleaner. That is what my dealer says they do. It cleaned easily and I throughly dried it with low pressure air. Took about 5.5 quarts of the oe ws fluid. About the same as I drained. For some reason I could not get the obd jumper wire diagnostics mode to check temp to work...maybe because its a 20 model. Used temp gun method. No leaks, no slips, all good.
 

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