5100 Front Install Problem

3

340W

New member
Hi guys,

In need of a sorta quick answer from the group. I have my local shop installing 5100's on the front of my truck right now using the stock springs. The plan was to set the perches at 1.75" (something I pre-set before taking them in); a perfectly common setup. I stopped by yesterday after they had one done and all looked well while the truck was in the air. Perches were correctly positioned, springs were aligned as with factory, etc, etc.

They just called me saying they're finished, but it appears the shock rod is too long for the suspension. Basically, above the front mount, the nut that holds the washer and bushing to the UCA has about a 3/4" space between them. They said the shock rod is almost touching the inside top of the wheel well. I know this isn't correct, but I can't make it over there right now as I'm stuck at work.

The part number of the shocks appears to be correct, 24-239370. Near as I can tell, I got all the correct hardware with the shocks. They didn't come with anything except the perch, dust boot, shock, and top nut. It's almost like there's a bushing or something missing from the top mounting assembly of the shock. Has anyone seen or experienced this before? I'm headed over there as soon as I can, but needed some advice in the meantime. If I can snap some pics, I'll post them.

Thoughts? Much appreciated!
 
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You need to install the upper strut mount (plate with 3 studs) upper spring rubber isolator, a couple of rubber bushings in there (top and bottom), and some washers. The 5100 instruction sheet that came with mine has a clear exploded assembly.

123071d1403563279-strut-mount-tightening-left-strut.jpg
 
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Thanks, guys. That very well might be it. I have to get over there tomorrow to take a look and see. So I make sure I'm understanding what you're saying, there's a washer that's supposed to be inside the top of the dust boot that prevents the shaft from extending too far through the UCA/mounting plate?
 
340W said:
Thanks, guys. That very well might be it. I have to get over there tomorrow to take a look and see. So I make sure I'm understanding what you're saying, there's a washer that's supposed to be inside the top of the dust boot that prevents the shaft from extending too far through the UCA/mounting plate?
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Yes, that is correct. so from the bottom, washer, rubber isolater, goes through the strut mount, then another rubber isolater, washer and finally the nut.
P.S. They really shouldn't be having an issue with this, it's very very basic... I wouldn't return to them after this is done.

Edit: Here's a link of the exploded view. https://app.box.com/shared/p2rsns9zb6/1/56101336/541860546/1
 
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t-man said:
Yes, that is correct. so from the bottom, washer, rubber isolater, goes through the strut mount, then another rubber isolater, washer and finally the nut.
P.S. They really shouldn't be having an issue with this, it's very very basic... I wouldn't return to them after this is done.
Click to expand...

Yeah, that's what I figured. I'm actually pretty unimpressed that they had any difficulty with these. I don't like to insult anyone off the bat, so I gave them the benefit of the doubt. The funny thing is, the only reason I didn't do this myself is because I started and literally every bolt was seized solid from years of NE salt and road grime. I just don't have the tools to break them free.

The shop steward gave me the whole, "well, sometimes aftermarket parts just don't work out..." routine. God, I hate that.
 
340W said:
Yeah, that's what I figured. I'm actually pretty unimpressed that they had any difficulty with these. I don't like to insult anyone off the bat, so I gave them the benefit of the doubt. The funny thing is, the only reason I didn't do this myself is because I started and literally every bolt was seized solid from years of NE salt and road grime. I just don't have the tools to break them free.

The shop steward gave me the whole, "well, sometimes aftermarket parts just don't work out..." routine. God, I hate that.
Click to expand...
I got lucky on mine somehow, Northern Michigan, but I hated them and not caring about the old ones I used vice grips and a good wrench. A lot of muscle and they came off.
Tell them to fix it or your not paying them. Shoddy work there. Wish I was closer, I'd come help.
 
Update to those interested:

I swung back over to the shop this morning on my way to work to bring some sense to the situation at hand. Sure enough, the shock top resembled the ones from the Taco forum exampled above. I took printouts of all the pictures and threads I found and the exploded diagram Toyota uses to the manager. This wasn't the fella I talked to yesterday; this guy was genuinely concerned about what was going on and was a tad miffed at his staff for getting it set incorrectly in the first place. He called me back a few hours later and said they got everything worked out correctly. They were missing that big washer from the old shock on the bottom, hence there was nothing to stop the piston from extending too far upward.

Long story short, problem solved. Picked the truck up this afternoon; it looks great, rides great, and the shop charged me fairly. Everything's correctly installed. A big thanks to all who chimed in on this thread. It was only through your suggestions I was able to provide some solution to the issue. Many thanks, guys.

For the benefit of those who search for this in the future, a few initial observations on the 5100/stock spring swap:

  • The ride is not as different as I imagined. It's noticeably firmer, but not harsh.
  • You actually don't notice it during regular driving as much as when things get rough. That's where the stiffer shocks and different valving come into play.
  • The truck isn't as affected by dips or sweeping humps in the road. There's no more "bouncy"; it's just down-and-up.
  • I went with the 1.75" setting in the front, which looks perfectly balanced/level to me. Less or more would look strange, IMO.
  • One problem that did crop up is the obvious need for bigger tires and/or wheel spacers! Lotta extra space in those wells now... :biggrin1:
 
340W said:
Update to those interested:

I swung back over to the shop this morning on my way to work to bring some sense to the situation at hand. Sure enough, the shock top resembled the ones from the Taco forum exampled above. I took printouts of all the pictures and threads I found and the exploded diagram Toyota uses to the manager. This wasn't the fella I talked to yesterday; this guy was genuinely concerned about what was going on and was a tad miffed at his staff for getting it set incorrectly in the first place. He called me back a few hours later and said they got everything worked out correctly. They were missing that big washer from the old shock on the bottom, hence there was nothing to stop the piston from extending too far upward.

Long story short, problem solved. Picked the truck up this afternoon; it looks great, rides great, and the shop charged me fairly. Everything's correctly installed. A big thanks to all who chimed in on this thread. It was only through your suggestions I was able to provide some solution to the issue. Many thanks, guys.

For the benefit of those who search for this in the future, a few initial observations on the 5100/stock spring swap:

  • The ride is not as different as I imagined. It's noticeably firmer, but not harsh.
  • You actually don't notice it during regular driving as much as when things get rough. That's where the stiffer shocks and different valving come into play.
  • The truck isn't as affected by dips or sweeping humps in the road. There's no more "bouncy"; it's just down-and-up.
  • I went with the 1.75" setting in the front, which looks perfectly balanced/level to me. Less or more would look strange, IMO.
  • One problem that did crop up is the obvious need for bigger tires and/or wheel spacers! Lotta extra space in those wells now... :biggrin1:
Click to expand...

some 255/75/17's would look good. nice and tall and not to heavy
 
kevinpt said:
some 255/75/17's would look good. nice and tall and not to heavy
Click to expand...

Funny you should mention that. My tires are between 4-6/32 right now, so new ones won't be that far away. You think 255/75's over 265/70's? I'm just starting to consider things.
 
Well, gets me wondering now. I bought Fj front springs to go along with the 5100's. Mine are due to go in on Wed. Think I'll try .85 with them and see where they get me. Lol
 
Robs08Runner said:
Well, gets me wondering now. I bought Fj front springs to go along with the 5100's. Mine are due to go in on Wed. Think I'll try .85 with them and see where they get me. Lol
Click to expand...

You know, I wrestled around with the settings and options, too. I don't think you'll be totally happy with anything less than the 1.75 or 2.5" settings. If you go lower than that, you'll probably have major back-to-front rake. It's personal preference, of course, but were I swapping in FJ springs, I'd go with 2.5" on the front 5100's.
 
340W said:
You know, I wrestled around with the settings and options, too. I don't think you'll be totally happy with anything less than the 1.75 or 2.5" settings. If you go lower than that, you'll probably have major back-to-front rake. It's personal preference, of course, but were I swapping in FJ springs, I'd go with 2.5" on the front 5100's.
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I did the 1.75 setting with no spacers and FJs all around and love the stance.. Not a hint of rake.. Rake on 4x4s just looks weird to me not sure why that is..:confused:
 
My issue with my situation is that I only bought FJ fronts. I wanted very little lift on the rear and thought it was firm enough because I don't carry much weight. Im also on stock sized tires. What I told my guy was to try one side and see what it looks like and I would leave it up to him. He has a nice press and it wouldn't take that much to pull it apart and either way. I'll tell ya 28, yours is just perfect. If mine has your stance, it will be worth the LONG wait.
Hope the Op posts us some pics! Lol
 
Robs08Runner said:
My issue with my situation is that I only bought FJ fronts. I wanted very little lift on the rear and thought it was firm enough because I don't carry much weight. Im also on stock sized tires. What I told my guy was to try one side and see what it looks like and I would leave it up to him. He has a nice press and it wouldn't take that much to pull it apart and either way. I'll tell ya 28, yours is just perfect. If mine has your stance, it will be worth the LONG wait.
Hope the Op posts us some pics! Lol
Click to expand...

Thanks [MENTION=85995]Robs08Runner[/MENTION].. Not sure how it would turn out with FJ coils in front only but I have the the FJ coils and 5100s front and back with no spacers.. I will say though just as a heads up Rob, but the FJ coils and 5100s gave me about an inch of lift in the back so not sure if the 5100s alone in the rear would net you any lift at all.. Anyways good luck with whatever you decide..
 
28. said:
Thanks [MENTION=85995]Robs08Runner[/MENTION].. ...but the FJ coils and 5100s gave me about an inch of lift in the back so not sure if the 5100s alone in the rear would net you any lift at all.. Anyways good luck with whatever you decide..
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FWIW, the stock springs and 5100's in the rear on my truck netted exactly zero lift. Not sure how some guys get lift with those things, but I don't see how it's physically possible. You can compress those shocks with your bare hands; how are they gonna lift a car? :D :shrug:
 
340W said:
FWIW, the stock springs and 5100's in the rear on my truck netted exactly zero lift. Not sure how some guys get lift with those things, but I don't see how it's physically possible. You can compress those shocks with your bare hands; how are they gonna lift a car? :D :shrug:
Click to expand...

It's because those people that report that they got a slight lift get their measurements as soon as they lower their trucks off the jackstands.

In other words, they need to drive the truck and let the suspension settle back to normal before measuring.

You are correct, no lift with the shocks alone.
 
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