5100 Install problem

C

commbubba19

New member
Hi guys,

I tried installing my Bilstein 5100's this weekend and failed. I used the no spring compressor method and everything went fine except when trying to bolt the hub back to the lower arm. No matter what we did, we couldn't get the spring/strut assembly to actually compress to bring them together. I had a jack under the lower arm and the whole truck was being lifted but the strut/spring wouldn't compress.

I took the assembly back out and tested to make sure the lower a-arm had proper articulation and it did. I then reinstalled the factory strut without any issue.

I only had the spring seat set at the .85" setting so this wasn't a huge lift or geometry change.

I've searched and only seen one person make note of a similar issue but the listed solution wasn't clear.

Thoughts?
 
Register to hide this ad
commbubba19 said:
Hi guys,

I tried installing my Bilstein 5100's this weekend and failed. I used the no spring compressor method and everything went fine except when trying to bolt the hub back to the lower arm. No matter what we did, we couldn't get the spring/strut assembly to actually compress to bring them together. I had a jack under the lower arm and the whole truck was being lifted but the strut/spring wouldn't compress.

I took the assembly back out and tested to make sure the lower a-arm had proper articulation and it did. I then reinstalled the factory strut without any issue.

I only had the spring seat set at the .85" setting so this wasn't a huge lift or geometry change.

I've searched and only seen one person make note of a similar issue but the listed solution wasn't clear.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...


Your strut assembly is longer than stock now right? Disconnect the end links on both sides to give yourself more articulation. You should able to slide it in there.
 
commbubba19 said:
Hi guys,

I tried installing my Bilstein 5100's this weekend and failed. I used the no spring compressor method and everything went fine except when trying to bolt the hub back to the lower arm. No matter what we did, we couldn't get the spring/strut assembly to actually compress to bring them together. I had a jack under the lower arm and the whole truck was being lifted but the strut/spring wouldn't compress.

I took the assembly back out and tested to make sure the lower a-arm had proper articulation and it did. I then reinstalled the factory strut without any issue.

I only had the spring seat set at the .85" setting so this wasn't a huge lift or geometry change.

I've searched and only seen one person make note of a similar issue but the listed solution wasn't clear.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...

Did you do it like this?



 
Marcocopuffs said:
Your strut assembly is longer than stock now right? Disconnect the end links on both sides to give yourself more articulation. You should able to slide it in there.
Click to expand...

The endlink was separated from the assembly.

To clarify, the bilstein strut assembly with the factory spring was installed. Top hat nut secured and bottom bolt in place on the lower arm.

The last step is to install the 2 bolts holding the hub assembly back to the lower arm. This is where you raise the LCA using a jack to compress the strut/spring and can do so, but the strut/spring wouldn't compress. I was lifting the truck via the LCA but got no compression.
 
commbubba19 said:
The endlink was separated from the assembly.

To clarify, the bilstein strut assembly with the factory spring was installed. Top hat nut secured and bottom bolt in place on the lower arm.

The last step is to install the 2 bolts holding the hub assembly back to the lower arm. This is where you raise the LCA using a jack to compress the strut/spring and can do so, but the strut/spring wouldn't compress. I was lifting the truck via the LCA but got no compression.
Click to expand...

I think you better make your way to the nearest autozone, and rent their spring compressors...
 
Runer4Life said:
Did you do it like this?



Click to expand...

yes.

same steps except he skipped where he raised the lower arm back to the ball joint assembly. that's where we failed. strut wouldn't compress.

wasted 2 hours trying to do just one side. i feel like a failure.

i've lowered my evo and installed the lift on my buddy's 2011 taco and done a lot of other work and never had this happen. ugh.
 
commbubba19 said:
yes.

same steps except he skipped where he raised the lower arm back to the ball joint assembly. that's where we failed. strut wouldn't compress.

wasted 2 hours trying to do just one side. i feel like a failure.

i've lowered my evo and installed the lift on my buddy's 2011 taco and done a lot of other work and never had this happen. ugh.
Click to expand...

Hmmm... :confused: I hope your problem will be solved.

62640331.jpg
 
[MENTION=120443]commbubba19[/MENTION]

since the sway bar link was detached i'm having trouble "guessing" what else could have caused that. my next thought:

are you using a jack stand on the rear opposite corner of the side you are installing the shock? (not to lift the rear off the ground but just to provide stability to the opposing corner?)

i could see how the floor jack under the LCA could potentially compress the rear suspension and lift the front instead of compressing the front

does that make sense?

i did this install following antman's steps in Sp8ball's writeup and everything went off without a hitch. (did not loosen the LCA alignment cams as shown in the videos above)
 
codyHTX said:
[MENTION=120443]commbubba19[/MENTION]

since the sway bar link was detached i'm having trouble "guessing" what else could have caused that. my next thought:

are you using a jack stand on the rear opposite corner of the side you are installing the shock? (not to lift the rear off the ground but just to provide stability to the opposing corner?)

i could see how the floor jack under the LCA could potentially compress the rear suspension and lift the front instead of compressing the front

does that make sense?

i did this install following antman's steps in Sp8ball's writeup and everything went off without a hitch. (did not loosen the LCA alignment cams as shown in the videos above)
Click to expand...


Yep, same instructions i used.

I see what you're saying. It makes sense the opposite corner of the vehicle would compress. I only had the front lifted at the frame rails on stands. Tires were on the ground in the rear.
 
commbubba19 said:
Yep, same instructions i used.

I see what you're saying. It makes sense the opposite corner of the vehicle would compress. I only had the front lifted at the frame rails on stands. Tires were on the ground in the rear.
Click to expand...

I would try reinstalling, only lifting 1 front tire (not both sides) off the ground at a time. then support the opposing rear corner with a jack stand (just enough to keep the rear from compressing but keeping the rear tires on the ground)

since there's good amount of potential energy built up using a floor jack to compress the front struts (and esp since it apparently is actually lifting the front end instead of compressing it in your case) I would be a little skeptical of having the entire front end lifted/de-wheeled if something goes south

keep us posted
 
You do not need to separate the LCA from the steering knuckle if the coil overs are pre-assembled. When I installed my ARB coilovers (3" lift) I had the rear wheels on the ground and the front sway bar disconnected on both sides. I also had the upper ball joint disconnected from the steering knuckle. That will allow the LCA to droop enough to install the coilover without having to force down with a pry bar.

Reconnect your LCA and torque to proper spec and disconnect the upper ball joint stem from the steering knuckle (very simply, tap with a hammer with the retaining nut partially threaded).

When the new coilover is installed, then use your floor jack to gently raise the LCA enough to reconnect the upper ball joint to the steering knuckle.

You also may need to install aftermarket UCA's or you will not get good positive caster angle.
 
Last edited:
Verify that your spring base is on correctly. If its upside down, it makes the spring/shock taller. That's the only thing i can think of based on some other members posts.


I used the no compressor method and had zero issues.
 
SLC Punk said:
Verify that your spring base is on correctly. If its upside down, it makes the spring/shock taller. That's the only thing i can think of based on some other members posts.





I used the no compressor method and had zero issues.
Click to expand...


Agreed. I've seen the coil seat upside down before.
 
Sometimes you need to force/lower the upper control arm/knuckle assembly downward to meet the lower control arm. Move it downward as you raise the lower control arm. To do that: Place a long crow bar between (on top of) the arm and to the right of the tophat area/frame. Takes two people. The longer the crowbar/wrecking bar, the better leverage. Also be sure to allow the whole upper arm/knuckle/hub assembly to lower as much as possible without allowing the CV axle to pop out. If you have a jack holding it, let it sag. That is what it basically should be doing, it is somewhat free floating anyway, force the upper section downward as you raise the lower arm. But check this first: be sure that the cam adjusting bolts are loose enough. That may be all it actually needs, loosen the lower control bolts more and see if that gives you enough lift. Also be sure that the spring is clocked/seated correctly, that the coils ends are seated in the indentations properly.
 
Last edited:
It's important to have that jackstand under the opposite rear corner as stated above. I've done it like this 4 times now- no problems.

Good luck!
 
DEERUNNER said:
Sometimes you need to force/lower the upper control arm/knuckle assembly downward to meet the lower control arm. Move it downward as you raise the lower control arm. To do that: Place a long crow bar between (on top of) the arm and to the right of the tophat area/frame. Takes two people. The longer the crowbar/wrecking bar, the better leverage. Also be sure to allow the whole upper arm/knuckle/hub assembly to lower as much as possible without allowing the CV axle to pop out. If you have a jack holding it, let it sag. That is what it basically should be doing, it is somewhat free floating anyway, force the upper section downward as you raise the lower arm. But check this first: be sure that the cam adjusting bolts are loose enough. That may be all it actually needs, loosen the lower control bolts more and see if that gives you enough lift. Also be sure that the spring is clocked/seated correctly, that the coils ends are seated in the indentations properly.
Click to expand...

I was worried the axle would come out.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 348 (members: 6, guests: 342)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,305
Messages
3,554,042
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top