5th gen brake bleeding/flushing question.

[bradstone]

I replaced a seized front caliper, I bleed the fronts the old school way, pump the pedal, hold and crack the bleeder, repeat til no more air bubbles.

Tried the same on the rear but the pedal never drops. The bleed screw is not plugged because fluid comes out into the tube.

Pedal is firm, just as it was before the caliper change. Any tips on how the bleed / flush the rears?

thanks

 

[MossJenks]

Turn the key on, open a bleeder and just step on the pedal and hold. The ABS system will pump the fluid out. It's super convenient/easy.

 

[Bossman]

Some threads with helpful brake bleeding tips:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/253825-how-bleed-brakes.html

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/maintenance-detailing/68750-tip-bleeding-brakes-4th-5th-gen.html

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/maintenance-detailing/81158-question-bleeding-brake-fluid.html

 

[bradstone]

Turn the key on, open a bleeder and just step on the pedal and hold. The ABS system will pump the fluid out. It's super convenient/easy.

thanks, I'll give it a try.

 

[nevada]

I replaced a seized front caliper, I bleed the fronts the old school way, pump the pedal, hold and crack the bleeder, repeat til no more air bubbles.

Tried the same on the rear but the pedal never drops. The bleed screw is not plugged because fluid comes out into the tube.

Pedal is firm, just as it was before the caliper change. Any tips on how the bleed / flush the rears?

thanks

as they said for the rear, key on and just hold the pedal.

however for the front, or any other traditional brake system, the "pump, pump, pump, hold, bleed" method is no longer the preferred way to do it. the preferred method is ONE pedal push for each bleeder opening.

so, bleeder open, pedal down, close bleeder, pedal up. pause, wait AT LEAST 10 seconds. then repeat until all the air is out.


the reason for this, is the multi-pump method will turn large air pockets(bubbles) into very small, even microscopic bubbles. these are VERY hard to get out of the system. they will adhere to the inside of the hose and just stick there.

 

[Runn4est]

thanks, I'll give it a try.

I used a dowl and put it between the seat and pedal -- slid the seat up so it would depress the pedal. Then went and cracked the bleeder. Closed after a little to make sure I still have good fluid level. Cracked it again, closed it - done!

 

[BobsTrail]

Did mine a few weeks ago, the rear worked exactly as @mosjenks stated. I bought a vacuum tank from Motive and that made the front easy for me and my son. He did not have to do the brake pump. Then I used the tank on our old school Astro Van.

Before pushing the old brake fluid through the lines to the wheels, I used the vacuum pump tank to remove most from the master cylinder, then filled with new.

I used DOT 4 synthetic fluid and did a good flush (ran a lot of fluid through). Probably my imagination but the brake pedal felt a bit more firm on both vehicles after that. Maybe I'm just trying to justify the cost for the extra fluid and tank.

 

[CutthroatSlam]

as they said for the rear, key on and just hold the pedal.

however for the front, or any other traditional brake system, the "pump, pump, pump, hold, bleed" method is no longer the preferred way to do it. the preferred method is ONE pedal push for each bleeder opening.

so, bleeder open, pedal down, close bleeder, pedal up. pause, wait AT LEAST 10 seconds. then repeat until all the air is out.


the reason for this, is the multi-pump method will turn large air pockets(bubbles) into very small, even microscopic bubbles. these are VERY hard to get out of the system. they will adhere to the inside of the hose and just stick there.

This is always the preferred way to do it.