5th Gen Calipers

Another thing that worked for me for my spongy brakes from possible air. Was to get it all back together and bleed and then do a 60-0 stop getting on the brakes as hard as possible to get ABS to kick in and it seems that pushes the air out of the ABS unit. (Do so in a safe area!) Then bleed the lines one last time without letting the res get low, I left the fluid bottle in the opening to keep it full.

Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk
 
5th Gen Upgrade Success

Recently upgraded the front calipers and rotors on my 08 SR5 and it works well. I went with the 5th gen Centric stuff listed at the beginning of this thread and the Akebono ASP976 pads. I also replaced the backing plates/dust shields because I had the smaller 319mm/2.56" dia. rotors on my truck. Probably could have cut and bent but I went with new ones. The P/N's are 44781-60120 & 44782-60120. These are 4th gen Sport backing plates and fit without modification.

When I first drove it after the install I wasn't crazy about the amount of travel the new brakes had. The next morning I did the 40 slow pumps mentioned here and now have about 60 miles on them and brakes feel good. Smooth and strong.

I also used the POR15 caliper paint kit to keep the rust at bay. I painted the inside up to the boots. Took some time to accurately tape/protect the boots and caliper pistons. Contact me if you want more info about painting these things.

So thanks for all the good info here and we'll see how the upgrade pans out over time
 
As an update:

I've got about 1,500 miles on the upgrade now, and it just keeps getting better. Pedal feel is very strong now. No issues at all. Very happy to have done the upgrade.
 
I am so sorry to post but I am confused.

I have a 2007 Sport V6 and need new calipers, and rotors/pads up front.

What part numbers do I need?

Do 4th gen pads I have purchased, fit the 5th gen caliper that I would be upgrading to?
 
Recently upgraded the front calipers and rotors on my 08 SR5 and it works well. I went with the 5th gen Centric stuff listed at the beginning of this thread and the Akebono ASP976 pads. I also replaced the backing plates/dust shields because I had the smaller 319mm/2.56" dia. rotors on my truck. Probably could have cut and bent but I went with new ones. The P/N's are 44781-60120 & 44782-60120. These are 4th gen Sport backing plates and fit without modification.



When I first drove it after the install I wasn't crazy about the amount of travel the new brakes had. The next morning I did the 40 slow pumps mentioned here and now have about 60 miles on them and brakes feel good. Smooth and strong.



I also used the POR15 caliper paint kit to keep the rust at bay. I painted the inside up to the boots. Took some time to accurately tape/protect the boots and caliper pistons. Contact me if you want more info about painting these things.



So thanks for all the good info here and we'll see how the upgrade pans out over time



Want more info on this for sure! Funny you should mention POR15 -I bought the starter kit just to find out that the surface needs to be rusted to Adhere properly.
 
I wouldn't need the dust shields as have the sport right?

You have the larger 338mm/13.3" rotors on your Sport. Your dust shields will work with the 5th gen calipers without modification.

Some where in this thread someone stated that even though the oem 4th and 5th gen pads have different part numbers, they are the same size. So what you have should work.
 
I just bought some OEM 5th gen rears. Almost got real lucky And got the fronts too, but the seller had a mismatched pair... Could of had all OEM for $200! So, now I think I'll go remans in the front. But then get OEM rotors all around.
 
Went to O'Riley's and they said I had to have the actual front left caliper off a 5th gen so I can send it off to be rebuilt? This happen to anyone? I was just simply trying to buy it.. can I get it somewhere else? To me it didn't make sense..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Went to O'Riley's and they said I had to have the actual front left caliper off a 5th gen so I can send it off to be rebuilt? This happen to anyone? I was just simply trying to buy it.. can I get it somewhere else? To me it didn't make sense..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I sent my 4th gen front calipers back as a core return to Rock Auto recently. I received my deposit/refund in about 10 days no problem. That was about a week ago.
 
I sent my 4th gen front calipers back as a core return to Rock Auto recently. I received my deposit/refund in about 10 days no problem. That was about a week ago.



Hmmmm I'll prob just order them through rock auto then if you didn't have any problems with them! Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Want more info on this for sure! Funny you should mention POR15 -I bought the starter kit just to find out that the surface needs to be rusted to Adhere properly.

Let me first say I don't know how long the paint will last but I'm confident it has a better chance of surviving rather than just painting without the Prep and Rust Prevent applications.

As far as the surface needing to be rusty to adhere, I don't think so. After I cleaned and used the caliper/metal prep the surface flash rusted immediately.

Here's what I used. A box of gloves( the paint is hard to get off your hands). Two assortment packages of Taklon brushes from walmart. Cheap Bristle shop brushes from harbor freight and a tooth brush.

1. Caliper Cleaner: Brushed it on and scrubbed. I used a spray bottle with water to carefully rinse around the boots and piston.

2. Caliper/Metal Prep: I didn't want this stuff on the piston, boot or retaining ring. It will begin to eat away the piston and retaining ring surface. So this is when I masked everything. I used a small bottle as a template to match the dia. of the top of the piston and boot. I used 3 overlapping pieces of tape on a cutting board and an xacto to cut that top circle using the bottle as a guide. I then cut a bunch of approx. 2"x1/4" strips to cover the sides of the boot and retaining ring up OVER the top circle. PITA. I then brushed the Prep on up to the masked boots and kept it wet for 10 minutes. Then I carefully rinsed again with the spray bottle.

3. Rust Preventive Paint: I started on the inside around the boots with a small brush and worked my way out until I had painted about half of the outside as well. I then flipped the caliper over and put it on small wood blocks on each end of the caliper. I wanted to keep from messing up the painted area. Then I finished the remaining half of the caliper.

4. Caliper Paint: The Rust Preventive paint needs to be slightly tacky when you put the Caliper Paint on for best adhesion. I flipped the tacky caliper over again so I could start on the inside around the boots with the small brushes. I used long screw drivers through the two caliper mounting holes to help turn it over. I worked my way out as in step 3. Turned it over again and finished the remaining half of the outside. I ended up just putting one coat on the inside and two on the outside. The paint can be brushed out more than I expected and leveled out good. I used the Black caliper paint.

So was all this worth it? I don't know. I do know I don't want rusty orange calipers. I'm also hoping that by painting up to the boots it will help keep the rust from reaching the piston and cylinder wall. It seems like that's one of the main reasons the pistons seize.

Then finally if I'm not mistaken the Starter Kit doesn't have the Caliper Paint included. You'll probably need that. Something about the Rust Prevent Paint needing to be top coated because of UV issues when in direct sun light. You can get it on ebay $18. Good luck.
 
Last edited:
Hmmmm I'll prob just order them through rock auto then if you didn't have any problems with them! Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Whether you use the Por15 Caliper Painting Kit or other, I recommend painting the calipers. They rust fast. Outside of the look of rusty calipers I wanted to try to slow down the piston and cylinder walls from rusting. Check out post 616 for more info. Of course powder coating would be better.

If you do go with Rock Auto they have an option to print shipping return labels on their core return page. They withhold $11-$12 each but still saves you money. Make sure to send the cores back with the tags that come on the new ones.
 
Last edited:
Let me first say I don't know how long the paint will last but I'm confident it has a better chance of surviving rather than just painting without the Prep and Rust Prevent applications.

As far as the surface needing to be rusty to adhere, I don't think so. After I cleaned and used the caliper/metal prep the surface flash rusted immediately.

Here's what I used. A box of gloves( the paint is hard to get off your hands). Two assortment packages of Taklon brushes from walmart. Cheap Bristle shop brushes from harbor freight and a tooth brush.

1. Caliper Cleaner: Brushed it on and scrubbed. I used a spray bottle with water to carefully rinse around the boots and piston.

2. Caliper/Metal Prep: I didn't want this stuff on the piston, boot or retaining ring. It will begin to eat away the piston and retaining ring surface. So this is when I masked everything. I used a small bottle as a template to match the dia. of the top of the piston and boot. I used 3 overlapping pieces of tape on a cutting board and an xacto to cut that top circle using the bottle as a guide. I then cut a bunch of approx. 2"x1/4" strips to cover the sides of the boot and retaining ring up OVER the top circle. PITA. I then brushed the Prep on up to the masked boots and kept it wet for 10 minutes. Then I carefully rinsed again with the spray bottle.

3. Rust Preventive Paint: I started on the inside around the boots with a small brush and worked my way out until I had painted about half of the outside as well. I then flipped the caliper over and put it on small wood blocks on each end of the caliper. I wanted to keep from messing up the painted area. Then I finished the remaining half of the caliper.

4. Caliper Paint: The caliper paint needs to be slightly tacky for best adhesion. I flipped the tacky caliper over again so I could start on the inside around the boots with the small brushes. I used long screw drivers through the two caliper mounting holes to help turn it over. I worked my way out as in step 3. Turned it over again and finished the remaining half of the outside. I ended up just putting one coat on the inside and two on the outside. The paint can be brushed out more than I expected and leveled out good. I used the Black caliper paint.

So was all this worth it? I don't know. I do know I don't want rusty orange calipers. I'm also hoping that by painting up to the boots it will help keep the rust from reaching the piston and cylinder wall. It seems like that's one of the main reasons the pistons seize.

Then finally if I'm not mistaken the Starter Kit doesn't have the Caliper Paint included. You'll probably need that. Something about the Rust Prevent Paint needing to be top coated because of UV issues when in direct sun light. You can get it on ebay $18. Good luck.



Excellent description! Very much appreciated. I wonder if I can use the Surface Prep and Metal Prep that came with my starter kit rather than buying the caliper kit? I'd have to buy the POR15 branded paint either way which I don't mind.

Again - thank-you!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Excellent description! Very much appreciated. I wonder if I can use the Surface Prep and Metal Prep that came with my starter kit rather than buying the caliper kit? I'd have to buy the POR15 branded paint either way which I don't mind.

Again - thank-you!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I think you have the Super Starter Kit item # 45009 on their web site. It has the Cleaner, the Caliper/Metal Prep and the Rust Preventive Paint. All you need is the Caliper Paint.

The Starter Kit has 4ozs of the Cleaner compared to 32ozs in the Caliper Painting kit that I used. The cleaner gets diluted 1:1 so you should have plenty. I have a lot left over.
 
Ok thanks just wanted to make sure on the core charge via I will be being back the two position rotors from my FJ compared the the 5th gen 4Runner calipers , but yeah I'm sure they probably don't even look it the box lol ... this is a great up grade and can be done for about 450.00 for parts (rotors pads calipers and stainless steel brake lines) and another 100.00 for the dust shields (which probably make sense via stock rotors are 319mm and the news ones are 338mm ... the FJ and thanks for all the info guys glad we FJ guys can cross paths with you 4 runner guys they both excellent trucks and I passed on all the info to the FJ Cruiser fourm

that FJ is sick! one of the best looking FJs i've seen. kudos to you!
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,309
Messages
3,554,066
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top